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Discussion Starter #1
02 Ody

Was running perfect, alternator died in the typical manor (but 70 miles away from anything and 250 miles from home, lol)

Had it flat bedded here, removed and charged the battery back up, replaced it then drove it into the garage (was running perfect)

Bought the Denso unit from RockAuto as so many on here recommend. After a few stops and starts I did get the alternator removed and replaced.
I did have to loosen the tensioner (removed small bolt and loosened the large one to give me enough clearance). Everything tightened up well and
the belt went on pretty easily. Before taking it off the jack stand and closing everything up I started it to check the belt placement, the RPM's were high
but the belt tracked perfectly and with no squeals.

I went ahead and put everything back together (except engine cover), put the wheels on and lowered it from the jack stand.

Started it again, tapped the throttle a few times to see if it would drop but it would not. Engine is holding steady about 3200 RPM.
I try to place it in gear but it will not come out of park. (I am not sure if this is the lock or due to the engine speed)

I did check the throttle cables under the hood but they seem to move freely.

I am perplexed.

The van was on the jack stand for roughly a week with the parking brake engaged.

have released the parking brake and reapplied several times.

Any ideas?
 

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I got nothing...

anything come back from a full module scan?

maybe disconnect the negative battery terminal and leave it off for 10-15 mins then reconnect.
 

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I’d first check how much voltage your new alternator is putting out. Making sure it’s within the proper range-14.5V.

Try starting on neutral. So turn key but not start. Have all lights in dash lite up. Step on brake. Try moving gear shifter to neutral. Then start it.
 

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Try readjusting your throttle cables and make sure the cable from the cruise control module is seated in the holder where the cable goes into the module on the passenger side. I had a similar intermittent racing engine problem after the dealer replaced my RMS. They couldn’t figure it out but I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will double check for possible vacuum leaks and try to see if my scanner will pick up anything. Hopefully the shift lock release will let me get it out of park.

I did find my "missing" 14mm ratcheting wrench that was MIA from from almost the beginning of this job. It had fallen off on the trans side toward the firewall (under throttle cables). It was laying free, not wedged when i found it. From my first few looks it doesn't appear to have messed with anything but the proximity to the throttle cables does give me concern.
 

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I have heard of losing a socket in an engine, but a wrench? LOL Could have turned out a lot worse.
 

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I assume you disconnected the battery while changing the alternator. But your very detailed story does not include this.

In looking at my '02 FSM, the intersection of your two conditions (idle and shifter) seems to be at the brake pedal position switch. Check that brake lights are off when pedal is not depressed, and on when pedal is depressed.
 

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I have heard of losing a socket in an engine, but a wrench? LOL Could have turned out a lot worse.
It is funny but it and much worse happens. I was the pre-owned manager at a Mercedes-Benz dealership for many years
and I relished in shaming (good-natured) the techs with the miscellaneous tools we would find.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I assume you disconnected the battery while changing the alternator. But your very detailed story does not include this.

In looking at my '02 FSM, the intersection of your two conditions (idle and shifter) seems to be at the brake pedal position switch. Check that brake lights are off when pedal is not depressed, and on when pedal is depressed.
Yes I did disconnect the battery, forgot to mention.

I do try to be detailed when asking a question yet somehow still manage to miss pertinent information (like the battery!)

The brake pedal position switch is what my research has me leaning towards as well.

I will up date, thanks for the help so far to everyone.
 

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It is funny but it and much worse happens. I was the pre-owned manager at a Mercedes-Benz dealership for many years
and I relished in shaming (good-natured) the techs with the miscellaneous tools we would find.
There are a few tools and fasteners I still pray would reappear from the jungle that is an engine compartment. Fortunate, none have migrated inside the engine or tranny.
 

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Yes I did disconnect the battery, forgot to mention.

I do try to be detailed when asking a question yet somehow still manage to miss pertinent information (like the battery!)

The brake pedal position switch is what my research has me leaning towards as well.

I will up date, thanks for the help so far to everyone.
The brake switch was obvious to me for the shift issue. It was news to me to find it in the idle control diagnosis procedures.
 

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Have you yet tried to shift out of Park with the engine not running but the ignition being in the ON position?
Someone mentioned that earlier and there was no response. Only takes about a minute to try,
That could help some others help you with the locked shift problem.
Many times a high rpm is just that damn cable going between the battery and the fender (might be the cruise control cable). Perhaps you moved that cable when disconnecting or removing the battery, which is usually the most common cause. Did you remove the battery?
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Have you yet tried to shift out of Park with the engine not running but the ignition being in the ON position?
Someone mentioned that earlier and there was no response. Only takes about a minute to try,
That could help some others help you with the locked shift problem.
Many times a high rpm is just that damn cable going between the battery and the fender (might be the cruise control cable). Perhaps you moved that cable when disconnecting or removing the battery, which is usually the most common cause. Did you remove the battery?
Buffalo4
I did disconnect the battery. I was able to depress the shift lock release and move the selector to nuetral. I then started the van and it was able to go in reverse and drive. I did actually drive it about two miles. The unloaded RPM was still at 3200, in gear and at a full stop it was at roughly 1800 RPM. Other than the high rpm it drove normally, shifting gears, responding to the throttle inputs (intentionally applied as it didn't really need it). I haven't had a chance to spend anytime on it since then, but I plan on working on it tomorrow until I (we!?) figure it out.

Notes

Idle speed is consistent not ramping up and down like typical with a vacuum leak

Checking brake light switch first

Then maybe any physical obstruction

Or light a match under it (kidding)
 

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Check that cable to the outside of the battery that goes to the throttle. It is a cable like one used on a bicycle or hood unlatch control.
That can easily cause a very high idle like you are experiencing.
Buffalo4
 

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Like Buffalo says multiple times, my Cruise control cable unhooked and caused high idle on my '02. Throttle still moved smoothly, but it kept it from releasing completely. When I checked the round part where the throttle/cruise cables connected, my cruise cable came unhooked.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Finally solved! Thank you all for the input. As Buffalo said it was the cable that goes around the battery to the throttle, it was just on the opposite end. I was checking it around the battery again to make sure i did not have it pinched and this time finally followed it back to the other end. Of course that was very near the alternator and it looked a bit off, crooked. It straightened easily and then i tried to turn the nut with my fingers to with no luck. Finally I applied a little pressure inwards and the RPM's started to drop, pushing it with more force lowered it until it actually turned off. Pulled it out just a bit, started it back up and finally got it to settle at 715. Revved it a few times and it continued to settle down to the very low 700's. Put everything back together and took it for a test drive. It does appear to be good to go.
 
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