Help! My subframe broke
So I kept having symptoms that resemble a bad outer tie rod. I replaced that tie rod a month ago or so. However the clunking on acceleration and turning remained. Much less pronounced but still there. So when I was underneath my van today trying to figure out what was going on I noticed the subframe where the stablizer bar bolts to is rusted through and broken.
Where the stablizer bushings bolt to the frame is damaged and rusted. Virtually useless. This is on the passenger side. The driver's side is still good and the rest of that subframe looks ok. From what I can tell this is not really a critical part of the frame but I need other opinions. Can I ran with this or am I screwed? The rest of the suspension/frame is okay. What do you think? Is this vehicle unsafe now? Can I push it at least until febuary? I plan on taking it to a frame and axle shop and having them fix/ reweld it in febuary. Here are the pics.
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Where the stablizer bushings bolt to the frame is damaged and rusted. Virtually useless. This is on the passenger side. The driver's side is still good and the rest of that subframe looks ok. From what I can tell this is not really a critical part of the frame but I need other opinions. Can I ran with this or am I screwed? The rest of the suspension/frame is okay. What do you think? Is this vehicle unsafe now? Can I push it at least until febuary? I plan on taking it to a frame and axle shop and having them fix/ reweld it in febuary. Here are the pics.
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Wow, i wonder why that spot of all places? Anyhow if it were spring, i'd probably drive it very carefully but im not sure how your winters are so given the time of year it is, i think its a little more risky. Then theres the welding; i had a 78 Malibu(known for rear frame rot) and my dad welded on about 20lbs of steel but the bumper still hung lower than it should have. What im getting at is, thats gonna be some custom welding there and maybe that part of the frame would be better off taken out and replaced. I dont know if thats possible.
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It is possible and I would definitely have it replaced. Your best bet would probably be a bone yard with a good reputation. To locate a new front subframe, K-member, not really sure what they call it. If its anything like a civic k member the bolts that hold it on are torque to yield bolts so I would buy new bolts to attach the new to you subframe on.
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So does anyone know what steps I need to replace that subframe? will I be dropping just the steering rack,tie rods,swaybar? Anyhone have experience in this area?
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You should try to get your hands on a shop manual. It's generally pretty good at documenting complex jobs like this.
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If you have no mechanical experience I would have a pro do the job. I'm not to familiar with your Gen engine bay/cradle but if its anything like the newer ones the whole engine/trans may have to come out as well. I have a really awesome mom/pop frame shop out by me. They have all the right tools and knowledge but aren't like the big names and charge outrageous prices. They're located in a industrial area by a bunch of other body shops. They catch a lot of the over flow from them. Basically, what I getting at is try to find a shop like that in your area and see what they quote you. Places like that can also source the parts for you as well. Keeps your hands clean. The place I usually deal with looks for parts on car-part.com its a nation wide database of all junk yards and parts available.
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What part of Ohio are you from. I have a 98 EX I am parting out. I could sell you mine. $100 and you can have everything on it you need except the P/steering rack. Let me know. I am in Macedonia 44056 (Cleveland/Akron area). My e-mail is [email protected] . It is still in the van. Steve
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You need to file a safety complaint with NHTSA immediately. I think that subframe failure at a suspension attachment point is worthy of their attention.
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
this isn't a defect its a rust fracture, just look how advanced the rust is in the pics.
feel free to report it tho..
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The A/C drain is above that also. I've seen this on Civics and Accords too. Don't know if its the cause, but it stays wet all summer. Steve
that may be true + winter salted roads and wam bam.
when i had my rear sub frame replaced i made sure to coat most of it in rust proofing and just generally clean things as the car was originally from upstate new york and there wasn't a single thing besides the gas tank that wasn't rusted or rusting. wasn't cheap tho i think i paid 800 for the frame assembly
You are better off paying to have the sub frame replaced. To replace it you have to disconnect any suspension and steering components and support the motor and transmission and unbolt the lower mounting points of the motor and trans, and then unbolt the sub frame. You have to have the new sub frame positioned under the old one before you support the motor and cut the old in half and then bolt the new one up and install everyting in the way you they were taken out. Its not a fun job and should be left to a professional to do. I have replaced a couple sub frames in the body shop i work at and its not fun at all. And its better to do this job on a lift.
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this isn't a defect its a rust fracture, just look how advanced the rust is in the pics.
feel free to report it tho..
If the design of the subframe tends to trap water causing it to rust out, it is a safety problem that NHTSA may want to look at. A single report by a single owner won't do anything but a couple dozen reports may indicate a serious problem. Check Google for info on the Ford Windstar rear axle failures due to corrosion.
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Well I changed my mind. I was gonna get another vehicle but I bit the bullet and decided to replace the subframe at the last second. It was replaced with a good salvage subframe by a reputable frame shop. The also replaced end links,exhaust/cat gaskets,few bolts and sway bar bushings. I paid $600 for everything so if you go this route be prepared to pay up. Now I just need to replace rear control arm bushings and I'm set for a while. I already know about the torn bellow.
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Great job! $600 is a lot of money, but I think you got a good deal.
wow you did get a good deal! my car was formerly in cold weather and was in a similar rust stage. i paid 800 JUST for the sub frame and then i replaced almost all of the rest of the suspension too.. granted that was 3 years ago, but i don't want to remember the total
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