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So on friday my ball joint broke. It snapped off. so my dad was able to get everything off (rotor and what not) however, for the past two hours we have been trying to take the bearing from the hub. well i just found online that there is a way to remove the seal from the back. This is wat is causing us to not be able to remove the ball joint because it wont clear the seal. what should we do
 

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momvanrocks,

I've replaced my balljoints and wheel bearings. Instead of going through a long and detailed description watch EricTheCarGuy remove/replace the balljoint and remove the bearing from the knuckle.

balljoint:
EricTheCarGuy's Channel - YouTube

Wheelbearing removal --goto 4:07
EricTheCarGuy's Channel - YouTube

Eric is a great guy and his YT videos have a lot of information for Hondas.

Hope this helps.
 

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I finally jacked up front, one side at a time. jack plate contact spot is lower control arm? I did it towards the outside & then jack spot was also tried at the frame support for the control arm at the inner spot , towards center of car. cant find play in either upper nor lower ball joint(maybe a hair in lowers). I even tried shaking wheel from outside, & saw no play in top ball joint & heard no clunking. But when I drive I hear clunking. I'm suspecting the pivot where bolt goes thru the bottom of wishbone or yoke. I saw in video that should be tightened last with weight on wheel. I know I didnt' when I changed strut, about a year ago. Then about a month after, strut changed, the clunk slowly started.
 

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I finally jacked up front, one side at a time. jack plate contact spot is lower control arm? I did it towards the outside & then jack spot was also tried at the frame support for the control arm at the inner spot , towards center of car. cant find play in either upper nor lower ball joint(maybe a hair in lowers). I even tried shaking wheel from outside, & saw no play in top ball joint & heard no clunking. But when I drive I hear clunking. I'm suspecting the pivot where bolt goes thru the bottom of wishbone or yoke. I saw in video that should be tightened last with weight on wheel. I know I didnt' when I changed strut, about a year ago. Then about a month after, strut changed, the clunk slowly started.
I have a clunk that is driving me crazy. Here are the possible items: Lower control arm bushings (2), radius arm bushings (both sides), front caliper pins, brake pads, strut mounts.
 

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If you are having clunking in the front end first replace the outer and inner sway bar bushings. If that doesn't fix it you should replace your strut mounts. These are all common culprits.
 

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Welllll, I was already to replace the lower outer front bushings, (parts & tools in hand /car jacked) to see if clunk would disappear. The bushings didn't really look all that bad. So I decided to replace the swat bar end links. & while under there, I yanked on sway bar & notice very,very tiny, slight looseness on bushing to frame attachment. I was doing on a Saturday afternoon, so I used the bushings over by tightening them, as follows; take out the bushing & shave off a sliver from mating crack. (approx .025 thick) with a razor knife. Then reinstall bushing, but cut a strip of rubber from an old tire inner tube, & double over & place under "U" shaped clamp to increase squeeze pressure on bushing . (to close up wear play.) Put all back together & test drove. Yippy!!! No clunk noise! NONE !!! Cant believe sway bar bushing slight play made that much clunk noise! Thought for sure every thing was worn out(ball joints etc..) Now I'll have front end aligned, got new tires a month ago, & ask tech to see if anything is worn, because I cant find anything that is loose or sloppy. One place said, I needed new upper ball joints, but I cant see any play, & they do work in closed garage & already parked car when finished, putting on new tires, so I'm going to another place, & I know they will show me before any work is approved by me. (they did on my daughters subaru)
 
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