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You can really see how the HID light scatters in the second picture down. HIDs are meant to be with Projectors not Halogen light housings.

I'll stick with my SilverStars!:D
 

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Good move...I'm sure everyone else on the road (me included) appreciates it.

I also use the SilverStars and they do a very nice job...safely and legally to boot! :D
 

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Man...I feel like I've just gotten BEAT Up by all the comments.
Some people liked the way it looks...But most HATED the way the light spreads...

Silverstar, does any one have pictures of this and where do they sell them.
 

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rj05 said:
Man...I feel like I've just gotten BEAT Up by all the comments.
Some people liked the way it looks...But most HATED the way the light spreads...

Silverstar, does any one have pictures of this and where do they sell them.
I think it looks great. I'm thinking about the same thing when I get my Odyssey but with a glare shield. I did a similar installion into my brother Scion xB using OEM Nissan HID's, but we built a shield on the bottom to prevent glare. Works great and No Glare to oncomming traffic.
 

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Where did you mount everything for the HID conversion? I really like the light output and considering the conversion as well.
 

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az2 said:
Where did you mount everything for the HID conversion? I really like the light output and considering the conversion as well.
I will take pictures tomorrow and post them up on this thread.
 

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Here is the pics. It's so easy to install plus the Ody has perfect almost hidden places for the ballast. Just disconnect the power cables for the existing bulbs (2006) and remove the bulbs out of the housing. Install new xenon bulbs and plug the HID power cables to these cables (power to the old bulbs) to get 12 v to the ballasts. The rest of cables (3) have matching plugs so you can't go wrong. No need to use the gommets, just let hang. I wouldn't worry much about blinding other drivers. I was checking see if it need alignment and it didn't. I actually thought the improvement wasn't what I'd expected but the manual did say it takes 500 hrs to break in (or something like that).
 

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Hi everyone...it has been awhile since I posted on this particular thread. I am guilty for not posting pictures of my HID install as I indicated back in May. I will do my very best to post some pictures over this weekend since I will be working on my ody installing the DVD RES system and taking lots of pictures which will be used for a HOW TO thread.
 

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rj05 said:
Hi everyone...it has been awhile since I posted on this particular thread. I am guilty for not posting pictures of my HID install as I indicated back in May. I will do my very best to post some pictures over this weekend since I will be working on my ody installing the DVD RES system and taking lots of pictures which will be used for a HOW TO thread.
While you are at it - mind posting the wiring instructions (if you still have them).. Aside from connecting to the existing bulb's sockets, did you have to connect it to anything else (like +12V supply from the battery, etc.)

I wonder if it will work together with my DRL setup... It should, but I need to see the wiring diagram first.
 

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alexmish, I actually have the wiring diagram in PDF format which I may be able to post for download. At least with the HID kit which I have installed the DRL should work just fine.

The HID kit basically replaces the regular Low beam bulbs.
Once the replacement takes place the low beams and high beams work as if the vehicle still has original bulbs.

There are two ballasts, two HID bulbs and a wiring harness. The wiring harness contains a relay along with the plugs that attach to each ballast. There's another plug which is connected to just one of the two original vehicle low beam plug. There is a ground cable that comes out of the relay and another cable which is attached directly to the battery.
 

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rj05 said:

There are two ballasts, two HID bulbs and a wiring harness. The wiring harness contains a relay along with the plugs that attach to each ballast. There's another plug which is connected to just one of the two original vehicle low beam plug. There is a ground cable that comes out of the relay and another cable which is attached directly to the battery.
I guess different kits have different ways of wiring. My kit uses only one cable from the car (each side) which is the power cable to the original bulb (to get power). The rest of the cables are just between the new bulb and the ballast. Actually, I checked other installations posted on some web sites, all of them have the exact wiring as mine.

The wiring you describes above was also included in my manual but it's for "Headlight with selfchecking circuit" which involve a relay and battery connection. Not sure what it means but my kit didn't have any relay. I asked the seller and he said most cars use standard installtion/wiring.
 

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amati5, I suggest that you double check with the manufacturer of your HID Kit. You may be overloading your lighting wiring harness at HID startup. The HID Wiring harness prevents overload at startup and guarantees that no other overload occurs while the lights are on.

Did you have to change your low beam Fuse to a higher number in the ODy?

Those kits which the ballast plugs right into the original low beam plug and nothing else one must normally change the original low beam fuse to a higher fuse number to prevent a blow out of the fuse.
 

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I followed the standard instruction and it didn't mention changing the fuse. The 3rd option ( 2nd option is like yours) did mention about changing the fuse to 20A. I didn't use the 3rd option as it didn't apply but changing the fuse to a higher one somewhat concerns me (in any case). I'd rather see something blows than having the original wiring melt slowly withtout knowing it (in this case, may be it's just for start up which I think is ok). If I remember correctly reading lable, the ballast produces very low wattage, thus low current. The lights do take a second or 2 to get bright, so may be the relay is built in with the ballast ?

This kit has been installed by many others on the other forum and I sort waited to see how it turns out before I bought mine. They use the same wiring concept for other cars too, no relay or battery connection. So far no one changed the fuse and have any problem with start up.

Edit: I did some research and my kit, although a one piece design, combo of ballast/ignitor, doesn't have a relay. The start up does draw high current but it's been working fine with the oem 10A fuse. My other car with only 7.5A fuse works fine so far also. But I will post if something happen in the future so people get the better idea.
 

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For HID bulbs to take 1-3 seconds to "get bright" is quite normal. My wife's ES330 has HIDs, and they do take approx 2 secs to get bright...
 

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As promised...this is the wiring diagram for my HID kit.

PLEASE CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO SIZE IT
 

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Rj05,

Just currious, after wiring your HID kit, did you get a "bulbout" warning light on the dash since now one of the headlight power harnesses is left open (plus the other one now produces so little power, just enough to trigger the circuit inside the relay)? If you did, how did u take care of that?

I've been doing a lot of research and I still find more kits using the oem harness than ones use the battery. I have to agree your way of wiring is safer but not sure if it's necessary since the original 10A fuse is still working as intended.

I am planning on doing a test to see which kit lasts longer, by having one of kit in one car uses the battery/relay and the other car's using the power straight from the oem harness.

Please don't think this is a debate of which way is better. I am just wondering why some kits use the battery and some don't. May be the risk is too minimal (someone continuously flipping on/off the HID lights thus causing the current to peak for a long time) it's not worth the extra wiring.

I'll update if something is up.
:cheers:
 
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