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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i received the kit a while back but was putting off the installation, but i finally got around to it last night.

fwiw, the kit i ordered is a xenondepot xtreme kit in 5000k. i've had their 4300k kit in my other car for close to 7 years now with no issues.

a couple of notes regarding the product, the kit includes a relay which will take power from the battery directly and supply it to the headlights vs using the power from the stock battery connector. but the kit uses 35w vs the 55w h11 bulbs in there so i felt comfortable not using the relay harness and left it out to avoid a rat's nest of cabling. it's easy enough to do, but it really is a lot of wire.

you'll see what i'm talking about below.

here's the kit out of the box.
included is the two bulbs, two ballasts, and two relay assemblies. also in the box are 3m double sided foam tape pads, zip ties, and nitrile gloves. pretty much everything you'll need. the only thing i could fault in that kit is that the included zip ties were too big for the mounting holes in the ballast so i used some narrower ones i had in my tool box. no biggie.



OVERVIEW - the installation is all plug n play. essentially, the factory plug that used to go into the factory bulb goes into the hid bulb instead (there's a few, but it's obvious which one it fits). there's three more plugs that pigtail out of the hid bulb and those all connect to their mates from the ballast. each will only physically fit only one matching connector from the ballast.
here's a pic of the basic, wiring
plugs from the HID bulb are A B C and D
plugs from the ballast are 1 2 and 3
you plug in A to 1
B to 2
C to 3
and D to the factory harness



that should be enough to give you an idea of what's involved. after all the connections, it's a matter of tucking away all the wiring and securing the ballast.

if you need more detail, read on.

STEP 1

open up the box and lay out all the parts you'll use for one side to get an idea of the connections you'll be making.

STEP 2

go to the passenger's side and reach down to the factory bulb and twist counterclockwise to unlock it and pull it out. be aware of sharp edges!! remember that it's counterclockwise as if you were looking at it from inside the engine bay. once you've pulled it out of the housing, push down on the harness release and separate it from the car. set it aside.

STEP 3

this is the toughest step so read it thru and look at the parts before doing it.

WITHOUT TOUCHING THE HID BULB, open the protective housing and insert the HID bulb into the headlamp assembly. be aware of the correct orientation of the locking tabs, it is asymmetric. don't let the bulb touch the anything. wear the included nitrile gloves if you like, but i chose not to for more agility in that tight space. there is a rubber gasket around the base of the bulb that will compress and create a seal once the bulb is tightened. you must push the bulb in firmly to properly compress and engage the locking tabs while simultaneously twisting it clockwise to lock the bulb in. you can use a small tool if you can fit it in there, but just don't drop it into the abyss. if you do use a tool for leverage to twist, be VERY VERY careful not to overtorque or damage the base of the bulb.

visually verify that the base of the bulb is evenly compressed and inserted equally all around before twisting. once inserted far enough you should only be able to see a small amount of the gasket peaking out. when it's locked in, the base should be completely vertical, no angle whatsoever.

i say this is the most difficult step cuz it's critical that you don't damage or touch the bulb while applying pressure and twisting, all in a very tight space with little to no leverage on the part. it helps to take the factory bulb you just removed and try reinstalling it get a feel for locking the tabs. it'll feel different cuz the HID gasket is thicker, but you'll get a feel for it.

note, the clear plastic ring that held on the protective cap will still be hanging on. just leave it there for now. we'll cut it off later.

once you've got the HID bulb into the housing, lick your bruised fingers and have a beer. that's the toughest part of the whole thing. and if you've got agile hands skinnier than mine, than it's no sweat.

pics of the HID bulb close up




here's the green factory harness



here's how it looks once connected to the HID bulb.



STEP 4

find a spot you're happy with to mount the ballast. make sure all the connections will reach without creating any tension in the wires before securing the ballast. i ended up finding a flat spot to the side that was nice. clean off the surface with some rubbing alcohol as well as the bottom of the ballast. make sure it's all dry and free of oil then stick the double sided 3M foam pad that's included to the bottom of the ballast. then peel and stick the ballast to your spot. -- the foam pad is VERY sticky, so you've only got one shot at the location -- not difficult but something to be aware of. i recommend also securing the ballast with screws or zip ties.









STEP 5

take some diagonal cutters and clip the plastic ring around the bulb wires. it's brittle so just clip one side and snap it off.
make all your wiring connections -- IMPORTANT: a couple pins were crooked inside the harnesses. you must straighten these before cramming a connector in there or they will bend. ensure your pins are straight. if i wasn't taking pictures for this post, i would have missed it --

tie/tuck away all the excess wiring, preferably in such a manner that they won't be rattling against the sheet metal or some fluid reservoir.







.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
now, the driver's side.

it's essentially the same thing except you need to remove the air intake scoop to have a reasonable amount of space to work in. easy enough.

STEP 6

there's two push in expansion clips that hold the front. take a flathead screwdriver tip and slide it under the center lip and slowly work it up. be careful not to brake it, tho if you do, it's not the end of the world. there's two, one on either side.



STEP 7

just lift up the front of the intake scoop and gently rock it back and forth while pulling it out and it will work it's way out of the rubber coupling at the rear. when you get it out, it will expose full access to the battery and the intake throat.



you can see in that last picture where i had mounted my ballast for the driver's side. the hood release cable runs along this side so there's not as much room, but it's enough.


STEP 8

install as you did the passenger's side. check your connections. make sure everything's tight and nothing's crossed.

STEP 9

check your connections again

STEP 10

turn on your new HID headlights and turn night into day




cutoff is sharp, with only slight bleeding, but no more so than with the stock bulbs.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
for whatever reason, the pics look very very blue. it's not actually that blue, but a very crisp white. i guess my camera didn't know what to do with the white balance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
for those of you who want to make use of the included relay and wiring just to be on the safe side, here's the way that wiring would look.

 

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personally i recommend using the given wiring harness

it's not for the draw thats these lights use, when lit up

it's to lessen the in-rush current when initially starting up everyday

the in rush has potential to damage your factory electronics and that would be 1 expensive fix vs just installing those individual relays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
personally i recommend using the given wiring harness

it's not for the draw thats these lights use, when lit up

it's to lessen the in-rush current when initially starting up everyday

the in rush has potential to damage your factory electronics and that would be 1 expensive fix vs just installing those individual relays.
in-rush current. hmmmmm. yeah, that's probably a good idea.
you're right, installing the relays would be simple enough....
i have the relays in my other car, but was put off by the rat's nest of tucked away wire. i'll probably cut and trim before installing it this time around.
 

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Looks great.

A question from someone who doesn't know anything: do you need to level the new HID lamps, or is this unnecessary given that the stock headlamp covers/lenses are used? Any chance of blinding drivers coming in the opposite direction?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's easy enough to adjust the headlight level but I didnt need to since the cutoff hadnt changed with the HID conversion. I used the superscientific masking tape method of measurement. :)

One thing I did notice was that both sides were leveled the same from the factory whereas in other cars I had seen the drivers side was leveled a bit lower regardless of halogen or hid.

Excess glare shouldn't be an issue since the factory housing does a good job of containing the light. (see garage door pic).
 

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Aside from the colour, what is the rainbow effect on the top of the left side. I don't recall seeing this with the 2011 Touring I test drove a while back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
UPDATE: i installed the relays today and here's a short writeup to it.
you'll have to excuse the picture quality since i just used my cell phone this time around. but you can see all the important stuff just fine.

NOTE: once you do this, you'll need to input your radio code for it to work since power to the car will be disrupted. make sure you have it before proceeding

DISCLAIMER: no one but yourself is responsible for anything that happens to your car if you choose to alter it in any way. perform the previous or this procedure at your own risk. (hate to CMA, but gotta do it :))

TOOLS:

socket wrench
10mm socket
flathead to remove the intake scoop again
handfull of zip ties
optional - socket universal joint
rag


if you recall from the above post, the overall wiring with the relays will look like this:




which means that the relay connections basically go in between the larger harness connectors between the HID bulb and the ballast. the only two new connections to be made are the power and ground.

the passenger's side ground is convienently marked close to the headlamp's mounting bolt. just remove it with a 10mm socket, slide the ground wire ring onto the bolt and reinstall the bolt. done



the driver's side ground is also quite obvious. you can see in the pic that the battery itself is run to this point so just do the same thing here that you did on the passenger's side.




the power connectors go directly to the battery's pos(+) post. the preinstalled rings are the correct size to slip over the batter bolt. so i just put them under the tightening nut. you can see that the wires come back toward the front of the car so in order to close that red cap, i chose to simply cut a slot in the plastic cover. maybe you can be more creative and make it more stealth.





the two in-line fuse holders are interlockable so note the male and female sides of the fuse holders and simply slide one into the other for a little organization.



the passenger's side pos (+) wire i zip tied to a bundle of factory wires i found running along the top of the cooling fans from one side of the car to the other.




once the relay is wired in place, then connect ballast to the relay harness then the relay to the HID bulb.

{ TIP: i made the mistake of cleaning up wiring as i went along so i lost track of where the identical harnesses came from so once i wired it i wasn't 100% sure if the relay was play or if i had just rewired the HID bulb directly back to the starter. in order to test this without having to undo everything, it's an easy test to simply remove a fuse from the fuse holder next to the battery and turn on the headlights. if it turns on then you bypassed the relay, if not then the relay is properly wired in place and should work when you return the fuse. }


test the lights and if all is ok, then wrap up all your wiring someplace nice and tuck it away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
shazzam, i've no idea what that rainbow is, perhaps just a prism effect from the upper edge of the projector lense???
 

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The relay should be in the line supplying power to the ballast. If it is between the ballast and bulb, the power to the ballast is still coming from the vehicle wiring. The lights don't come on with the fuse removed because the relay is opening the wire from the ballast to the bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
just fyi, xenondepot took a look at the wiring and informed me it's correct.
thanks for the heads up tho. doesn't hurt to double check.
 

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Nice! But still wondering on the original query...

just fyi, xenondepot took a look at the wiring and informed me it's correct.
thanks for the heads up tho. doesn't hurt to double check.
Excellent and detailed write-up. Will surely be following you step-by-step should I go through with the after-market route.

Still, I’m curious if anyone’s checked further into the OEM swap you were first interested in. Like you, I tend towards the OEM if I can do it. Since the Touring Elite HID and EX-L headlight assemblies “appear” virtually identical—not to mention, there seems only to be a few differences in the diagrams of the EX-L and Touring HID headlamps—one would assume a swap is doable.

At least on the Bernardi site, the diagrams are identical.



Sorry, I just tried to duplicate the parts lists from Bernardi site, but could not easily copy the 2 lists over. Anyone else tried it?
 

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vqdriver:

Thank you so much for taking the time to post such a detailed installation review of the Xtreme HID kit. I am glad to see that you are happy with the product. The 2011 Odyssey projectors certainly have a great cutoff.

Enjoy :)

Steve
 

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Steve -

Do you carry a 55W or 50W D2s system in 5000K to swap out the factory HID for a brighter and better color look?
 
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