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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ordered a Volt HID Digital HID Kit from kbcarstuff.com and installed it in my 2011 Honda Odyssey Touring. Great kit at a great price.

I am looking for advice on an issue with with the kit and the Automatic Headlights when you first get into the car.

Let me try to explain it.

With the Headlight Switch in the Automatic Position;
When you put the key into the ignition and turn the key to “On” without starting the engine, the headlights come on.
When you turn the key to start the car the headlights turn off, I’m guessing due to a voltage drop.
When the car starts the headlights do not come back on.

Is there any way to remedy this behavior? We have become accustomed to Automatic headlights and I don’t want to lose the feature.

I am using the provided relay and the lights are being powered directly from the battery.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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HIDs require consistent power. So when you start the car, the power drops, which

is why the lights go off as you've said. i don't think you can do anything about this

unless you buy some kind of relay that shuts off the headlights when you turn the key

to start the van and turns it back on when the car is started.
 

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Is it really that hard to turn on/turn off the headlight switch? Just wondering...
 

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Based on my previous HID experience with other cars (purchased from DDM tuning) i would agree with the OP that this is not normal behavior (or at least is a bug/crappy design). the HID's that i had would dim down (almost turn completely off) when the engine was being started, but would power up immediately afterwards (engine on). I suspect that the HID trips itself off, and requires the headlight switch to be manually re-engaged. This would drive me nuts as i always leave my headlight switch in Auto. What good would Auto mode be when you have to manually turn it on...

I would contact the HID manufacturer, as it sounds fishy to me.
 

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i'm pretty sure it's doing that to prevent itself from being damaged and such. If

something gets short in the wiring, for exampe, and something catches on fire, then

you're shiat out of luck. so imo, that is just one of the safety feature.
 

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I have the extreme kit from them and it works fine on my touring.
Did not notice any problem. It's acting just like before the udgrade.
 

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richysh, i agree with your diagnosis of what the OP was describing, but i disagree with your solution (bending over and just taking it).

The HID maker could either trip the HID system and shut down completely, or just cut-off and power on again, once the voltage has reached 12+V.

I think the system should turn back on when the engine is fully running. i would connect the HID using an external power supply where the voltage can be adjusted. then i would find the cutoff voltage for the HID system. Or you can ask the company and see if they know this (or will even tell you). Then i would measure the voltage drop across the battery to see how much of a fluctuation you see. It might be that the HID system has enough power, and the issue lies elsewhere.

it also might be possible that the HID system is designed to not be able to be turned off and back on in very quick succession. this can also be checked using an external power supply. see if you can replicate this behavior, of the lights not turning back on. Then i would see if giving the lights 3seconds, 5 seconds or more time to be ready to be turned on again. if this is the case i would just install a Time Delay Relay.

quickly googled example below:
Time Delay Relay TDR

good luck with your testing.
 

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I agree. I have also not noticed this on my vehicle either. And I went with a 55 Watt system on my HIDs too.

Question would be whether this is happening to both headlights or just one side?
 

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I just installed the XenonDepot kit this past weekend and haven't had any issues with what you mentioned so far. I've attached some pics of the steps I took on hooking everything up. Maybe this can help you troubleshoot. I've used there stuff for years and have never had an issue on my other cars. Likely just something is missing or not connected right. Good luck!
 

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I always turn off electronic/electrical equipment (lights, stereo, dvd, etc) before starting to the engine to prevent any damage to them due to voltage drop / power surge.
You can contact your HID manufacturer if you want.
But as a general rule for myself, I always turn them off before I start the engine.
 

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I just installed the XenonDepot kit this past weekend and haven't had any issues with what you mentioned so far. I've attached some pics of the steps I took on hooking everything up. Maybe this can help you troubleshoot. I've used there stuff for years and have never had an issue on my other cars. Likely just something is missing or not connected right. Good luck!

can post some shoots on the light output?

Thanks
 

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I also plan on installing H.I.Ds for my Touring since I'm so used to driving with H.I.Ds the past few years in my old car.

Here's my dilemma....

I can't stand it when I see people with H.I.D headlights but running regular fog lights. The combination just looks funny and inconsistent. ( so, I will have to change my fog lights in the process)

But I don't know what to change it with? Do I do the yellow fog light look which will be a regular bulb change. This step would probably be the easiest.

Or do I find my myself a pair H.I.D fog lights to match the whiteness of the headlights or go as far as to looking for a pair yellow H.I.Ds?

Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!
 

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I use led bulb for the fog light..

I've been slow in the process of changing to HID headlights, but I've been playing with the fogs for the past week.

I recently installed PIAA 2500k for the yellow look. It looked ok, wife wasn't crazy about the yellow.

So then for my next mission, I wanted to find fogs that are 6k that will match the eventual HIDs headlights. I have yet to find halogen that actually states 6K, so I took the suggestion from the above poster and tried a 6K led bulb.

The pics are not great with the glare, and the color is actually how I want them to be (there's no blue like in the pic).

Only problem is that for some reason, it just doesn't throw the light as a fog light should. The regular OEM bulb will throw the light to the side and onto the floor, as seen in the first pic. But with the led bulb, if I stand more than 2 feet away from the car, the light is lost.

I suspect it to be that the bulb was not made long enough to sit inside the casing which is the reason why no light is being shined forward. In pic 2, the OEM halogen bulb is nearly the same length which the led bulb in the last pic makes it in only half way. I could be wrong though.....

I'm sharing the info as an FYI in case anyone out there plans to do the same. Any suggestions would be appreciated, like maybe where I can find a H11 6K halogen bulb or a longer led bulb to try!





 

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I don't think you can get a halogen bulb to give you the light you want. The best thing to do is get one of the better quality bulbs that don't claim to be that color. For example, Sylvania silverstars or their extra vision bulbs which are 4k & 3.5k respectively. I put in Sylvania bulbs that claimed to be the brightest and give 50% more light than other bulbs in my ML350 and I was pleasantly suprised on the color and light output. It was by no means like xenon but it was much better than the stock bulbs. Once you start putting halogen bulbs that are over 4k in color in you lose quality IMO. They become less bright and more blue and look like crap, I don't think the fog lights not matching the xenons is as big of a deal as many make it out to be. Believe me I used to be the same way, tried many bulbs in my A4 fogs to get them to look like my OEM xenons. I just gave up after a while.
 

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I am running Philips Crystal Vision Ultras in my Land Rover for Fogs. They match pretty well with the HIDs and give a much whiter and brighter light than the stock halogens. I will be replacing the Fogs in my touring Elite with the CV Ultras in order to get a better match with the HIDs.
 

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The LED bulbs look like 3 PLCC6 package LEDs. I doubt there's much heat sinking there so as they get warm, the intensity takes a dive. Most sellers will state the lumen output at initial startup but a LM-79 test will tell you the actual efficacy and intensity at steady state conditions. You probably start off with 150-200 lumens and it drops down to 50-100 after the temperature stabilizes. The heat also accelerates the degradation so I wouldn't expect those to last you more than a year if it's a FR4 PCB. They should at least use MCPCB in this application.
 
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