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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,

My Odyssey and other Honda mileage are about and over 75,000 miles now. Do I really need high mileage oil? Really make different between regular and high milage oil.

Thank you,
 

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No need for that, it's just marketing. Just stick with what you've been using.
 

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I just use Mobil 1 EP and change it every 7,500 miles. Sometimes life gets in the way, and I go with 10,000 miles.

196,000 and 186,000 miles on a pair of Gen 2 vans. Consume, maybe, 20 ounces of oil within that interval, usually less.

OF
 

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I have been using the Mobile 1 high mileage since 100K and have 190K now. Not a single oil leak anywhere. The high mileage just has added seal conditioners that help prevent oil leaks. With 190k on the clock and not a single leak I'd have to say it works and works well. Once you switch, though, you should stick with it. If you switch back you can get leaks...at least that's what I've read.
 

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I use Mobil One High Mileage and go about 7500 miles between changes (about ever 7 weeks.) 265,000 miles on my van

One time i got the wrong oil at a oil change, it was just regular 100% synthetic Mobil One. During the next 7500 miles i notice oil burning smell and noticed what appeared to be valve covers leaking just enough to hit the exhaust. I was gearing up to do a valve job and gaskets and check for other leak locations... As i was getting ready mentally to do the dreaded valve job, i noticed it had stopped leaking oil, this happen after getting another oil change with High Mileage Mobil One. I did not relate this to the oil until after the leaks went away but Cause and affect tell me M1HM made the difference.
 

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I use whatever oil brand that is on sale at Walmart, at the time. Even when my car had 211K miles.

"Had" because I sold it.
 

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Hmm...so it looks like the high mileage oil does its job but the question is when to start using it? The bottle says 75,000 but I’m at 98,000 and no sign of leaks anywhere so ...wonder when I outta start if I’m going to? The dealer was using a synthetic blend and I’ve done one change myself with the Mobile 1 synthetic. I’ve already got my next jug and filter of that so I guess I’ll do that at least one more time unless I start having a problem.
 

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I started using it at 100k and at 223k I still have zero leaks. I did replace the front crank seal at my first timing belt job, though it wasn't leaking, and I replaced the valve cover gaskets when I did the valve adjustment at 140k.
 

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Here’s a question...does the oil life monitor REALLY look at the overall life of the oil or is it really just counting mileage? Because mine went off right around 7,000 miles. Now the Mobile 1 synthetic says it’s good for 15,000 miles or one year. The oil looked like it’s in good condition so I just reset the monitor. Why not get more out of it since it’s supposed to be good to 15k? Also, the Mobil filter is supposed to be 20k. So let’s say the oil starts looking more like I want to change it at 10k, would you change the filter then too or let it run to 17 to 20k? I guess my point is...why am I buying the quality brand name long life oil and filter if I’m not going to take advantage of that life?
 

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It's a computer algorithm. It has no idea of the actual condition of the oil. I'd never let any oil go 15k miles. I change mine at 15% on the MM which equates to around 6500 miles and that's as far as I feel comfortable.
 

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I’m a new DIY er, I don’t see crank seals, timing belts, and valve adjustments in my near future but time will tell on how much I can educate myself. I have some friends who are car smart and working on me.
 

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I hear you on the oil monitor but I’m just thinking...in my example...the dealership was using a semi-synthetic on my maintenance plan. So...is that 7,000 or so when the monitor goes off based on Honda thinking I’m using something like that when in fact I’m using a Mobil full synthetic which can go further?
 

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My point was on the use of the high mileage oil and my results. I started at 100K and I have no leaks. Once you start with high mileage oil you want to stick with it from then on. I was merely pointing out that my front main seal is not original nor were my valve cover gaskets. I have never had a leak on this vehicle so the high mileage oil has been working great for me.

I wouldn't go any further than 7000 miles even on the full synthetic.
 

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Found some interesting Edmunds articles on the oil topic:


This one and a related one on when to change your oil both talk about the Mobil 1 EP being good for 15k and that it’s safe to switch to it. I don’t see why they’d be lying and it wouldn’t be safe to go closer to the 15 that they’ve tested it for. I may do a Blackstone analysis for a final verdict for myself.

Here’s the second article:


Not being argumentative, just saying that these articles present a counter argument to saying “I’m never going to go past x number of miles”. I don’t know but it’s all learning for me and that’s a good thing.
 

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I have seen first hand vehicles that specify 10K oil changes...VW to be specific...and the results are not good. Additionally, many newer cars that have these extended oil change intervals hold more oil than the older cars so going with extended oil changes on cars not built for it is not a good idea.

If you want to extend oil changes to save a few dollars, no problem. It's your vehicle. Besides, I've had people bring their cars to me for work on, only to find there is less than 2 quarts of oil in the vehicle and when I ask when the last time they changed it or checked it was, and they tell me, "well I bought the 15,000 mile oil so I thought I was good."

Additionally, people think they're good for those 10K oil changes that their owners manual tells them about but then go to Jiffy Lube where the cheapest bulk oil and filter is added which may or may not last. The other thing I've seen is most oil filters won't go 10-15K miles before starting to come apart. I've seen it at 5K oil changes.

I agree that the 3000 mile oil change interval is a thing of the past with full synthetic oils but going 10k...no way. Besides, Edmunds is in the tank for the dealers and manufacturers with their close associations for auto sales and pricing and there is always a race to see which manufacturer can have the lowest maintenance costs.
 
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