My dealer told me that Honda recommends that you use Honda's oil filters instead of the aftermarket oil filters? Is this a scam to get me to come back to the dealer to get my oil changed, or are Honda's filters that much better than the others? I am taking delivery of my 2001 EX at the end of this month.
Honda Brand Oil Filters vs. Aftermarket Oil Filters
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Here's a link I found helpful:
http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html
For example, Motocraft filters are just Purolator filters (only the Motocraft models are less expensive, go figure).
The article says Fram filters are junk, but a lot of people use them. I wont after reading this. I splurge on the oil filter (Mobil 1) but stay with conventional Castrol GTX 5w30 for my F150. Will likely do the same for the Ody if Mobil 1 makes one for it, but if not I'm sure the Honda filter is of high quality (but surely made by someone like Purolator or--the horror!--Fram).
I think the recommendation is so that you don't put junk filters on it.
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'01 SS Honda Odyssey EX
'99 F150 XL Supercab
'00 Kawasaki ZR-7
http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html
For example, Motocraft filters are just Purolator filters (only the Motocraft models are less expensive, go figure).
The article says Fram filters are junk, but a lot of people use them. I wont after reading this. I splurge on the oil filter (Mobil 1) but stay with conventional Castrol GTX 5w30 for my F150. Will likely do the same for the Ody if Mobil 1 makes one for it, but if not I'm sure the Honda filter is of high quality (but surely made by someone like Purolator or--the horror!--Fram).
I think the recommendation is so that you don't put junk filters on it.
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'01 SS Honda Odyssey EX
'99 F150 XL Supercab
'00 Kawasaki ZR-7
Interesting article. In the Miata world, it is accepted that you should use original type oil filters. Aftermarket filters have slightly different pressure relief valves and have caused low oil pressure in some situations.
I would not argue with using a Honda specific oil filter. Cheap insurance in the long run.
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Jim
I would not argue with using a Honda specific oil filter. Cheap insurance in the long run.
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Jim
I have a long history of using OEM filters because I have removed too many empty filters from motors that were not OEM filters. The anti-drainage features of most aftermarket filters plain stink. This means, unless the filter hangs down vertically it must be refilled on each start-up prior to supplying the engine. This adds up. I switched to using Toyota and Saab filters years ago and plan to ONLY use Honda filters for the new Oddy... I would be very surprised to find problems with them. My local dealers always have promos on them so they average is close to $5 each.
triplecut couldn't be more correct.
[This message has been edited by adobeman (edited 03-29-2001).]
triplecut couldn't be more correct.
Adobeman
[This message has been edited by adobeman (edited 03-29-2001).]
I realize my post is a little belated compared to the earlier comments, but....
I've used Fram oil & air filters on all my cars -- foreign and domestic -- for 20+ years. Never once had a problem. (My daughter drives my '89 Accord with almost 200k, uses the same Fram oil filter as our '99 Ody.) Maybe I'm just the odd man out, but so far, so good.
I do my own oil changes (the only way to know this simple but critical task is done right). After talking with car enthusiast friends and a well done article on motor oils several years ago by Consumer Reports (no appreciable quality difference between name brands and discussed frequency of changing), I've gone to changing oil/filter every 4,000-4,500 miles, on rare occassions up to 5,000. (Live in rural/suburb with majority of our driving at highway speeds and trips averaging over 20 minutes.)
Just my nickel's worth.
-Doug-
I've used Fram oil & air filters on all my cars -- foreign and domestic -- for 20+ years. Never once had a problem. (My daughter drives my '89 Accord with almost 200k, uses the same Fram oil filter as our '99 Ody.) Maybe I'm just the odd man out, but so far, so good.
I do my own oil changes (the only way to know this simple but critical task is done right). After talking with car enthusiast friends and a well done article on motor oils several years ago by Consumer Reports (no appreciable quality difference between name brands and discussed frequency of changing), I've gone to changing oil/filter every 4,000-4,500 miles, on rare occassions up to 5,000. (Live in rural/suburb with majority of our driving at highway speeds and trips averaging over 20 minutes.)
Just my nickel's worth.
-Doug-
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Here comes another two cents.
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I can't guarantee this works every time and every place, but it's worked without fail for me for about eighteen years with my Toyotas and now I'm doing the same with the Ody at the same dealer (but have yet to put it to the test).
Use the manufacturers recommended filters, have the dealer do the oil change, (cost: 16 to 20 bucks) and have most or all of your other service done there, too.
When anything has gone wrong and the dealer sees the loyalty you've exhibited, he'll bend over backward getting the manufacturer to honor your claims, even long after the warranty has expired. When they see and can show the manufacturer your service records, I think they can draw on special goodwill funds that they (both dealer and manufacturer) wouldn't waste on a customer who just comes in to bitch.
If it costs any more to have the dealer do the service, I usually just see it as a small payment on an insurance policy.
We've been treated very well over the years and I expect it to continue.
BTW, the dealer is LaFontaine Toyota-Honda in Dearborn, Mich.
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Chuck
Click here for Ody pics, mods and fixes.
I can't guarantee this works every time and every place, but it's worked without fail for me for about eighteen years with my Toyotas and now I'm doing the same with the Ody at the same dealer (but have yet to put it to the test).
Use the manufacturers recommended filters, have the dealer do the oil change, (cost: 16 to 20 bucks) and have most or all of your other service done there, too.
When anything has gone wrong and the dealer sees the loyalty you've exhibited, he'll bend over backward getting the manufacturer to honor your claims, even long after the warranty has expired. When they see and can show the manufacturer your service records, I think they can draw on special goodwill funds that they (both dealer and manufacturer) wouldn't waste on a customer who just comes in to bitch.
If it costs any more to have the dealer do the service, I usually just see it as a small payment on an insurance policy.
We've been treated very well over the years and I expect it to continue.
BTW, the dealer is LaFontaine Toyota-Honda in Dearborn, Mich.
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Chuck
Click here for Ody pics, mods and fixes.
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1,212 Posts
I was part of an oil filter project that my SE-R group did back in '98 at one of our "geek outs".
Oil filters
Fram looks like cheap garbage on the inside. The interesting thing is I was the one that supplied the Fram filter from my personal stash. Until the experiment, Fram is all I ever used.
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Jim
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'01 GG EX
Oil filters
Fram looks like cheap garbage on the inside. The interesting thing is I was the one that supplied the Fram filter from my personal stash. Until the experiment, Fram is all I ever used.
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Jim
Sound advice, Chuck, and sensible. Won't work for me, though; my dealer wants $90 + tax for an oil change and tire rotation, along with 9 'inspections' (7500-mile service). The intermediate (15K miles) service adds lubrication of doors and locks, cleaning the air filter, and adjusting the parking brake (if needed), and includes 6 additional 'inspections'. $140 + tax - a relative bargain. The major service (30K miles) adds adjusting the drive belts and replacing the air filter rather than cleaning it. $260 + tax!!! I don't have another dealer nearby, so I will begin doing these services for myself, buying the appropriate parts from Trevor.<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ckonarske:
Here comes another two cents.![]()
I can't guarantee this works every time and every place, but it's worked without fail for me for about eighteen years with my Toyotas and now I'm doing the same with the Ody at the same dealer (but have yet to put it to the test).
Use the manufacturers recommended filters, have the dealer do the oil change, (cost: 16 to 20 bucks) and have most or all of your other service done there, too.
When anything has gone wrong and the dealer sees the loyalty you've exhibited, he'll bend over backward getting the manufacturer to honor your claims, even long after the warranty has expired. When they see and can show the manufacturer your service records, I think they can draw on special goodwill funds that they (both dealer and manufacturer) wouldn't waste on a customer who just comes in to bitch.
If it costs any more to have the dealer do the service, I usually just see it as a small payment on an insurance policy.
<snip>
</font>
That said, if you're not getting screwed the way this guy's (McConnell Honda of Montgomery, AL) screwing folks, Chuck's approach is a good one. Plus, do you guys have any idea how many cars Chuck has had? He's gotta be at least 100 years old!! ;^)
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen.
Finish your mail packet! There are children offline in India.
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Watch it, Dave, I'm only in my late 90's!
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Seriously, is that the only dealer around? I'm pushing 12k miles and have paid for no extras (yet). Just the oil change charges.
I might want to have a little discussion with someone who was trying to charge that kind of money for basically nothing.
What about the possibility of having them do the oil changes while you do the rest?
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Chuck
Click here for Ody pics, mods and fixes.
Seriously, is that the only dealer around? I'm pushing 12k miles and have paid for no extras (yet). Just the oil change charges.
I might want to have a little discussion with someone who was trying to charge that kind of money for basically nothing.
What about the possibility of having them do the oil changes while you do the rest?
------------------
Chuck
Click here for Ody pics, mods and fixes.
The next dealer is about an hour away; although I value my time, I called him anyway as I was about to get the 15K mile 'intermediate' service. They charge MORE! They also include an alignment, whether you need it or not.<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ckonarske:
Watch it, Dave, I'm only in my late 90's!![]()
Seriously, is that the only dealer around? I'm pushing 12k miles and have paid for no extras (yet). Just the oil change charges.
I might want to have a little discussion with someone who was trying to charge that kind of money for basically nothing.
What about the possibility of having them do the oil changes while you do the rest?
</font>
I paid the $140 for the 15K mile service, because I don't necessarily know enough to recognize a problem when I see it. The only benefit I'm reasonably sure of is that they measured the brake pads, letting me know that they are still in spec. One of the 'inspection' items is 'the underbody'. While in New Orleans last month, I started hearing a horrible dragging sound. Apparently at some point my wife had caught the plastic underside of the left front bumper on something and pulled it half off, probably when backing away from a parking space. It was dragging. I put it up with a plastic tie-wrap. This was not noticed by the dealer, leading me to suspect the other 'inspections'.
For my 7500-mile maintenance, I had them do just the tire rotation and the oil change. $44 + tax (rather than $90). I guess I'll buy a Helm's, a floor jack and 4 jack stands. As much as we drive, they'll pay for themselves in fairly short order.
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen.
Celebrating nine years as part of the problem with the Internet.
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1,640 Posts
My dealer's normal charge was the same for 7500 miles. Then I looked online and their website had coupons for a $19.99 oil change and another for free 27-point "inspection". I added the tire rotation separately, and the final cost was $39.95... For that, I was willing since I don't care to try a tire rotation. For $90, I'd change the oil myself and have an independent shop do the rotation. Anyone in the Chicago suburbs may wish to check:
http://www.hondaoflisle.com/servicecoupons.htm
Yes, I did. I won't be doing it anymore; I have purchased the floor jack (big mother, 3.5 tons, 21") and jack stands. Guys, who do I order a Helm(s) from?
Thanks.
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen.
I try to take one day at a time, but sometimes several days attack me at once.
Thanks.
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen.
I try to take one day at a time, but sometimes several days attack me at once.
Joined
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1,312 Posts
Very interesting subject. My 93 mercury villager has 174,800 miles on it. I took it to dealer every 5k oil change for first 30k. It was free. LOL. After that I took to the mechanics every 5k for oil change, he charges $11.99 now it's $12.99 (oil and filter). He uses no name oil filter and union 76 oil. I have no problem at all. BTW I added slick 50 @ 35K and Prolong @ 145K. I am one of the informercial sucker. LOL.
Wife's 97 Toyota Avalon (currently 73k miles) goes to dealer for $21.95 fast oil & filter change every 5K for first 60k. I added Duralube @ 55K now I am worried about the duralube I put in. Last 15k I went to corner mechanics with no name cheap oil filter. Maybe I should pay a few bucks more to ask for OEM oil filter from now on.
I am going to stick with Honda filter for now. Only costs $4.50 each to buy online.
Does anyone know who make OEM oil filter for Honda?
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'01 GG EX
Mud Guard,
Wheel Lock
Cargo Tray,
Weathertech Mats
leather steerling wheel cover
Lojack
[This message has been edited by bjk2001 (edited 07-19-2001).]
Wife's 97 Toyota Avalon (currently 73k miles) goes to dealer for $21.95 fast oil & filter change every 5K for first 60k. I added Duralube @ 55K now I am worried about the duralube I put in. Last 15k I went to corner mechanics with no name cheap oil filter. Maybe I should pay a few bucks more to ask for OEM oil filter from now on.
I am going to stick with Honda filter for now. Only costs $4.50 each to buy online.
Does anyone know who make OEM oil filter for Honda?
------------------
'01 GG EX
Mud Guard,
Wheel Lock
Cargo Tray,
Weathertech Mats
leather steerling wheel cover
Lojack
[This message has been edited by bjk2001 (edited 07-19-2001).]
I have been reading this thread with interest. Years ago (2/87) CU tested oils & oil filters. In that test, Fram came out best. (The only ones check rated.) When taken apart and examined, they look like junk, but they work. I also like the black crinkled finish they put on, it makes it very easy to put on and take off by hand as it doesn't slip. I have used Frams for a long time, put over 200,000 miles on a 4 cyl Taurus, usually drive my cars until no value left, and have never had any engine problems. I don't know if the filters are still made the same, but in this test the Fram removed the most particles & did an outstanding job for all the filters they tested. They tested Lee, AC, KMart, Motorcraft, Purolator, and Sears. Many of the filters showed variations among various models. A quote - "Interestingly, certain filters made by automakers for their own cars proved to be far from the best choices as replacements." I did not see where they addressed backflow issues. John
Another thing, about additives. Save your money. I studied this when I was a chemical engineer and obtained lots of studies from Texaco, Briggs & Stratton, Mobil, etc, showing the harmful effects from using additives. Most of them use straight 30 weight oil as the carrier, thus changing the viscosity mix in your engine, and make so many outrageous claims. Briggs & Stratton did some testing because so many of them demonstrated on their engines. In their words, their engines are very tolerant of running without oil in no-load situations. They actually got greater cylinder wear with the oils with additives! Just think of the makers as snake oil salesmen and you'll be safe. John
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483 Posts
It's all in the filter paper. I always use Honda filters. If you buy a dozen, you'll get a discount. I also do my oil changes every 5000 kms (I keep my receipts for oil purchases). So I save a little, not much, but it's something.
Instead of buying steel ramps, if you can get scrap wood (6x6 by 1' to 1.5' long), you can cut it diagonally from one end to the other thereby ending with 2 wedges. Nail a stopper (wood scrap) at the end so your van doesn't go over or else 'CRUNCH'. Instant ramp and it's cheap. My neighbor uses it to change oil in his corvette. I also use it for my SiR. My neighbor was actually the one who gave me the idea.
As for additives, what jkues said, forget them all together. Instead of keeping your engine humming, it'll be grinding.
Instead of buying steel ramps, if you can get scrap wood (6x6 by 1' to 1.5' long), you can cut it diagonally from one end to the other thereby ending with 2 wedges. Nail a stopper (wood scrap) at the end so your van doesn't go over or else 'CRUNCH'. Instant ramp and it's cheap. My neighbor uses it to change oil in his corvette. I also use it for my SiR. My neighbor was actually the one who gave me the idea.
As for additives, what jkues said, forget them all together. Instead of keeping your engine humming, it'll be grinding.
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