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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone, here is the situation my family is in, and we REALLY need advice so I am hoping someone here with more knowledge and experience can read this and help us out. I am going to try to be succinct, while including all necessary information:

About a week ago our 2012 Honda Odyssey EX (mileage just over 85K) started to shutter and shake and the engine light came on, as well as the traction control light, and after an ordeal between my mechanic and Hall Honda it was discovered that it is the oil consumption/cylinder engine issue where the vehicle is (and I am describing this as best as I can) burning oil, and oil is getting past the cylinders and fouling the spark plugs. ( I also understand from reading here that this may be in relation to the VCM system, but Honda did not mention this) The engine codes according to Honda were P0301-P0304 so their recommended fix was to replace the piston rings on cylinders #1-3 and replace the spark plugs. To our dismay they admitted (based on information that our mechanic found for us) that this is related to the class action lawsuit which resulted in an extended warranty on such issues HOWEVER we were told we are about 5-6 weeks outside of that warranty. Because of this Honda offered to pay the majority of the cost (I believe it was about $3700's worth) and we had to pay a "deductible" of $500. Although this is a somewhat generous offer, we still felt that we should not have to pay for an issue that is clearly Honda's fault, but after pursuing every channel we could to fight it, we ended up paying to get the car fixed.

Well the story isn't over. We brought the car home on the 26th and it is now the 28th. As you can imagine since we are in the middle of a pandemic, we have only driven the van for absolutely necessary tasks and then engine light came back on. My wife had mentioned that she felt like the van wasn't running as smoothly as before, but I didn't think much of it until the light came back on. Feeling frustrated, we immediately called Honda back and brought the car back in this morning. We received a call stating that the issue is now the rocker arm oil pressure switch (gauge???) that has gone bad (code P2646 I believe, but don't quote me on that). They claimed that it is not related because they fixed the front of the engine and this is located at the back, but did say that its possible that because of the previous issue the oil pressure was not reading correctly and now that the pressure is correct the switch/gauge is now gone bad as a result. It seems clear to us that this is related and we should not have to pay the additional $165 to replace it. Not to mention now we are worried that there could continue to be a domino effect of related issues moving forward. We asked them to submit this to American Honda and request that they pay. We are now waiting to hear back.

If someone can please let us know what we are dealing with and if we are pursuing the correct course of action. This has been a huge added stress financially for our family during this difficult time for all of us. I will keep checking back. Thank you.
 

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Do add the current miles on your van to this post. Although it is the worst time to be paying out anything extra when many of us do not have money for the necessities, the deal you were offered wasn't bad. If the valve they are replacing is the one that has leaked on others in the past, the $165. to replace it is actually a good deal. Do post the part number once you get the van back so the savvy can tell you if it was a deal or not. If you were close to 100k, i hope you did the timing belt service while they had the engine apart.

For you reference, this is the service bulletin related to the ring repair:


Now you need to spend even more money on a VCM muzzling device. See threads here for details. There is nothing they did to keep the issue from happening again. It is up to you now.

Also, don't feel too neglected here, the weekends tend to be kind of slow here at the Odyclub. (for those of us who can still remember what day it is)
 

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Yes, I think you are going about this in the right way. It does suck that Honda is basically pointing at the calendar and saying, "sucks for you buddy", especially given the financial situation so many families are suddenly finding themselves in these days. But at this point you've got basically a brand new engine for only about 15 cents on the dollar. I don't mean to sound like I'm sticking up for Honda because I do think they could have been little kinder but a positive perspective on the whole thing is healthy for you in general. Your next step should be to install a VCM disable device and forget your van ever had the capability to run on fewer than 6 cylinders.

As for the other code, I don't think it's very common for it to come up at the same time as the other misfire codes. At least I don't recall seeing it. But these switches can get gunked up if the oil isn't changed regularly. It's also possible for it to throw an error if a wrong viscosity oil and/or poor quality oil filter is used. We've heard stories here that changing to an OEM Honda filter has seemed to resolve the issue sometimes. But like @egads wrote, if they are actually going to change the entire switch, $165 doesn't seem so bad. If you're having to pay someone to clean the screens the cost would be close to that anyway.

I presume that the dealership who did the ring job was the last crew to do an oil change and you'd therefore probably have a Honda oil filter on there. But it wouldn't hurt to check.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Did you talk to Honda America about this?
Yes. We have communicated/argued with Honda America throughout this process. And they are submitting our request to Honda America to pay for the current repair.
 

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Hello everyone, here is the situation my family is in, and we REALLY need advice so I am hoping someone here with more knowledge and experience can read this and help us out. I am going to try to be succinct, while including all necessary information:

About a week ago our 2012 Honda Odyssey EX (mileage just over 85K) started to shutter and shake and the engine light came on, as well as the traction control light, and after an ordeal between my mechanic and Hall Honda it was discovered that it is the oil consumption/cylinder engine issue where the vehicle is (and I am describing this as best as I can) burning oil, and oil is getting past the cylinders and fouling the spark plugs. ( I also understand from reading here that this may be in relation to the VCM system, but Honda did not mention this) The engine codes according to Honda were P0301-P0304 so their recommended fix was to replace the piston rings on cylinders #1-3 and replace the spark plugs. To our dismay they admitted (based on information that our mechanic found for us) that this is related to the class action lawsuit which resulted in an extended warranty on such issues HOWEVER we were told we are about 5-6 weeks outside of that warranty. Because of this Honda offered to pay the majority of the cost (I believe it was about $3700's worth) and we had to pay a "deductible" of $500. Although this is a somewhat generous offer, we still felt that we should not have to pay for an issue that is clearly Honda's fault, but after pursuing every channel we could to fight it, we ended up paying to get the car fixed.

Well the story isn't over. We brought the car home on the 26th and it is now the 28th. As you can imagine since we are in the middle of a pandemic, we have only driven the van for absolutely necessary tasks and then engine light came back on. My wife had mentioned that she felt like the van wasn't running as smoothly as before, but I didn't think much of it until the light came back on. Feeling frustrated, we immediately called Honda back and brought the car back in this morning. We received a call stating that the issue is now the rocker arm oil pressure switch (gauge???) that has gone bad (code P2646 I believe, but don't quote me on that). They claimed that it is not related because they fixed the front of the engine and this is located at the back, but did say that its possible that because of the previous issue the oil pressure was not reading correctly and now that the pressure is correct the switch/gauge is now gone bad as a result. It seems clear to us that this is related and we should not have to pay the additional $165 to replace it. Not to mention now we are worried that there could continue to be a domino effect of related issues moving forward. We asked them to submit this to American Honda and request that they pay. We are now waiting to hear back.

If someone can please let us know what we are dealing with and if we are pursuing the correct course of action. This has been a huge added stress financially for our family during this difficult time for all of us. I will keep checking back. Thank you.
$165 dollars to replace a vvt spool valve, as what @egads in your other post assumes is what you meant for this issue.
if that is the case, this isn't as serious of an issue as you think, pay the $165 and be on your way.

I still recommend the VCM muzzler so your problem with the rings does not recur.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do add the current miles on your van to this post. Although it is the worst time to be paying out anything extra when many of us do not have money for the necessities, the deal you were offered wasn't bad. If the valve they are replacing is the one that has leaked on others in the past, the $165. to replace it is actually a food deal. Do post the part number once you get the van back so the savvy can tell you if it was a deal or not. If you were close to 100k, i hope you did the timing belt service while they had the engine apart.

For you reference, this is the service bulletin related to the ring repair:


Now you need to spend even more money on a VCM muzzling device. See threads here for details. There is nothing they did to keep the issue from happening again. It is up to you now.

Also, don't feel too neglected here, the weekends tend to be kind of slow here at the Odyclub. (for those of us who can still remember what day it is)
Thank you for you advice. Unfortunately we are just over 85K and did not get the timing belt done, because we were unsure at the time as to whether we were even going to be able to keep the van. That and money. I'm wishing we did it now. It seems that the VCM device is needed...is there one that is recommended? We saw this one on Amazon: Amazon.com: AST Smart ECO VCM Spark Plug Saver, Muzzler, Controller, Compatible with Honda Odyssey [2007-2017] Accord [2008-2017] Pilot [2009-2017] Acura RLX,MDX [2014-2017] RDX [2013-2017] MDX [2014-2017] SC1: Car Electronics
 

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Yes, I think you are going about this in the right way. It does suck that Honda is basically pointing at the calendar and saying, "sucks for you buddy", especially given the financial situation so many families are suddenly finding themselves in these days. But at this point you've got basically a brand new engine for only about 15 cents on the dollar. I don't mean to sound like I'm sticking up for Honda because I do think they could have been little kinder but a positive perspective on the whole thing is healthy for you in general. Your next step should be to install a VCM disable device and forget your van ever had the capability to run on fewer than 6 cylinders.

As for the other code, I don't think it's very common for it to come up at the same time as the other misfire codes. At least I don't recall seeing it. But these switches can get gunked up if the oil isn't changed regularly. It's also possible for it to throw an error if a wrong viscosity oil and/or poor quality oil filter is used. We've heard stories here that changing to an OEM Honda filter has seemed to resolve the issue sometimes. But like @egads wrote, if they are actually going to change the entire switch, $165 doesn't seem so bad. If you're having to pay someone to clean the screens the cost would be close to that anyway.

I presume that the dealership who did the ring job was the last crew to do an oil change and you'd therefore probably have a Honda oil filter on there. But it wouldn't hurt to check.
Thanks for weighing in. You are making us feel better about the deal we are getting; however, its hard to swallow that it's not related when we basically just drove the car off the lot and the CEL popped on again. Hopefully, I've given you all the right codes etc. I'm going based off memory. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Thank you for you advice. Unfortunately we are just over 85K and did not get the timing belt done, because we were unsure at the time as to whether we were even going to be able to keep the van. That and money. I'm wishing we did it now. It seems that the VCM device is needed...is there one that is recommended? We saw this one on Amazon: Amazon.com: AST Smart ECO VCM Spark Plug Saver, Muzzler, Controller, Compatible with Honda Odyssey [2007-2017] Accord [2008-2017] Pilot [2009-2017] Acura RLX,MDX [2014-2017] RDX [2013-2017] MDX [2014-2017] SC1: Car Electronics
Timing belt is due at 105 miles.
so you have time...
Thank you for you advice. Unfortunately we are just over 85K and did not get the timing belt done, because we were unsure at the time as to whether we were even going to be able to keep the van. That and money. I'm wishing we did it now. It seems that the VCM device is needed...is there one that is recommended? We saw this one on Amazon: Amazon.com: AST Smart ECO VCM Spark Plug Saver, Muzzler, Controller, Compatible with Honda Odyssey [2007-2017] Accord [2008-2017] Pilot [2009-2017] Acura RLX,MDX [2014-2017] RDX [2013-2017] MDX [2014-2017] SC1: Car Electronics
85K and did not get the timing belt done
Timing belt is due at 105 miles.
so you have time...
 

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Here is a thread that does some comparason on the various VCM disabling devices:


Not the only thread by any means, but it's a start.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here is a thread that does some comparason on the various VCM disabling devices:


Not the only thread by any means, but it's a start.
Thank you for all your help. Lots of good information on there. I’m leaning toward a VCMTUNER 2.
 

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Thank you for all your help. Lots of good information on there. I’m leaning toward a VCMTUNER 2.
The VCMTuner II is a great choice. At this point, you should looking at it like “in for a penny, in for a pound”. Spring for the best option now that everything is new and needs to get broken in properly. Making sure that VCM never kicks on again is a big step in the right direction.
 
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The VCMTuner II is a great choice. At this point, you should looking at it like “in for a penny, in for a pound”. Spring for the best option now that everything is new and needs to get broken in properly. Making sure that VCM never kicks on again is a big step in the right direction.
Great advice. Thanks again for your help. Next step is figuring out how to install the Tuner correctly...
 

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Great advice. Thanks again for your help. Next step is figuring out how to install the Tuner correctly...
I wouldn't worry about the installation. All the feedback I've ever seen is that the instructions provided with the VCMTuner II are very good and the process goes smoothly. Just be patient and careful when you disconnect and reconnect the sensor.
 
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I agree the issue is related to the engine design and a tough pill to swallow but I would be OK with paying $500 plus $165 for a several thousand dollar fix on an 8 year old car that was out of the extended warranty.
 

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The VCMTunerII will come with instructions. One of the main things you are paying for in all of them is factory style connectors. You just disconnect the coolant sensor, connect the muzzler device between this two connections and you are done. With the exception of the VCMTunerII & S-VCM that both have a small wire to connect to the battery terminal. The main thing one must be aware of is installing with the engine stone cold. If you try to do it with the engine warm, the engine management computer may set a check engine light.

Don't forget to post the part number/description of the valve they replaced.
 

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I don't know if I am much help, but here's my addition:
Mine is a 2011 with 195,000mi on it. The engine is well kept. I've replaced the spooler valves on mine several years ago. Starting around last April, I've had to replace all the coils since they would go bad one or 2 at a time -they had a lot of wear, so I thought nothing of it. So, after the last coil was replaced in February, I had two more go bad and they were replaced under warranty, but then last month, I had another misfire. The tech (not a dealer, but a former Honda tech) checked the plug and #2 was fouled. He said it's showing signs of needing a valve job and I was resigned to the van going to the junk yard. Well, I'm 9 years past new so I doubted Honda would help. I called them and a representative was on bereavement leave so she didn't get back to me before I took the steps I researched here.
I asked here, and some folks recommended a piston soak, then an oil change, then immediately install a VCM muzzler. I'd not had many of the VCM problems that others did so I'd never installed that. So, I'd already started the piston soak when Honda got back to me and said I'd have to take it to a dealer after the CE light came on. I was not interested in ruining the engine more, so I continued with my procedure. My repair shop agreed to do the soak for me. They pulled the plugs and put Seafoam in it and let it sit all weekend. They blew out the carbon and did an oil change. I ordered the Muzzler and put it on and I have NO problems since. It actually runs better than it has in years with all cylinders all the time.
 

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The VCMTunerII will come with instructions. One of the main things you are paying for in all of them is factory style connectors. You just disconnect the coolant sensor, connect the muzzler device between this two connections and you are done. With the exception of the VCMTunerII & S-VCM that both have a small wire to connect to the battery terminal. The main thing one must be aware of is installing with the engine stone cold. If you try to do it with the engine warm, the engine management computer may set a check engine light.

Don't forget to post the part number/description of the valve they replaced.
I agree you picked the best one. I just installed mine on a 2013 touring. Instructions are great. You may encounter corrosion on the battery cable. Also the battery cable end may not match the picture. what you will need is another nut and two washer to connect the small wire to the battery If you want to connect it without disconnecting the battery. The battery bolt is metric thread. The locking tab for the temp sensor connector is towards the rear of the engine. You have to depress it slightly to remove the cable. Your rubber grommets may stay on the engine when you remove the cover. Just remove them from the post on the engine and put them back in the engine cover retainer hole. I hope I covered everything, but truly it is easy job to do. My VCM problem cost me a transmission but that is a discussion for another day. God Luck.
 
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