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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Ody owners!
I wanted to let you know about a great product I just installed in my van. To some of you this is nothing new, but to others... let me just say, this product is great!

Since my family is growing... with two kids and another on the way, we decided to take the plunge and get a minivan. First of all... having previous experience with other Hondas, choosing an Odyssey was one of the easiest decisions I could make. Not wanting my Odyssey to be completely "stock," I added a few things to make it sorta our own.

First, upgrade my rims and tires. Before long I knew what I needed to do my upgrade successfully. I chose a set of take-off 18" MDX Tech rims with Kumho tires... and within a month after getting our new 2008 Odyssey EXL... I had my lady fitted with some new shoes. I was extremely excited! I couldn't be happier with how she handled on both dry and wet roads within the Chicagoland area, especially this past winter!

Second, upgrade my stock headlight bulbs. Like the rims, I wanted my Ody to stand out. I thought this would be another nice touch. I wanted to still have a OEM look, while letting other Odys know... this one is a little different! Selecting a HID kit required a little more research. Choosing between some of the lighting kits out there was challanging. However, after a little research, cost comparing and a few other Odyssey owner recommendations... I chose the "9006 4300K Xtreme HID kit from www.xenondepot.com! Steve, the guy I dealt with was great! Needless to say, once talking with him, he answered all my questions and made me happy with my final selection, choosing the 9006!

Read my step by step instructions next!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Since I know lots of you may be interested in the install... here are my installation specs step-by-step with some pictures taken along the way.
Installation of the 9006 - The setup: The setup is really simple, for the "do-it-yourselver" in addition to those who may not be that handy! Straight out of the box... the downloadable guides and directions for my specific kit were pretty straight forward and easy to understand. If not, read on and follow this guide for your setup. Total installation for me was maybe a few hours tops after I thought about how I wanted to do my install. I didn't want to rush. You probably can do it faster... but thats why I added notes here. Think you can't do this... you can! Especially since I have spelled out all my thoughts and installation tips below!

Here are the parts that come in the kit: 1-pair of gloves, 2-bulbs, 2-ballasts, 2-wire connector harnesses for the system, 2-pieces of double sided tape, a dozen or so tie straps... and that's basically it!


The install:
The system requires each light to use its own ballast system. The kit comes with 2 large pieces of "double sided tape" and lots of tie downs to secure all the wires and ballasts. The thing I liked about the kit was the quality! Ever know when you can just tell if something is going to be top quality or if its cheapo? Is this going to be something to give you a headache later? Thinking about the install like I said, took me some time. At first I wanted to bolt the ballasts and everything else down... but thinking of possibly drilling holes into my new van really didn't seem like a good idea. Instead I trimmed the "double sided tape" into 2 pieces. I put one larger piece down the center of the main larger ballast and a second 1" wide piece down the smaller box. Trim off the access. If you can do this install on a cool vehicle thats been sitting for a while, it's easier as you'll have your hands under the hood. Lets get to work!


First, I popped the "windshield washer" line clip out to install the left ballast on the left side of the van. Remove the double sided backing and apply pressure to secure the ballast to the inside wheel well. Here you can see the left ballast system installed on top of the inner wheel well under the side fender edge.


Next, I also popped the line clip out to install the right ballast on the right side of the van. Remove the double sided backing and apply pressure to secure the ballast to the inside of this wheel well too. Here you can see the right ballast system installed on top of the inner wheel well under the side fender edge.


Side note: The smaller units, I mounted farther down the front of the wheel well on both the left and right sides. (I waited until I had all my other wires run and secured before I removed the double sided backing to apply these.)

The wiring:
The system requires connection to a power supply... your battery. There is plenty of wire to run both sides of your van so don't be concerned about not having enough wire. Both harnesses are the same. The special connection clip (on each harness) secures under your positive terminal and provides additional power to each light ballast assembly. The whole system is "plug n play" but gives you the option to remove or install the system without any wire cutting, snipping, taping or funny electrical power additions. Overall, I wanted to make sure all my wires were as clean as possible. That's the beauty of this system! While no HID kit is street legal, this one provides a safe alternative for improved visibility and the best near to OEM Xtreme HID option for the Honda Odyssey. The other reason I selected this kit was because while it's still custom, the output I believe is within legal limits and regulation for HID output standard on other factory installed HID vehicles.

Installing the main wiring harness:
I first installed the wiring harness of the left side through the same bolt of the white power steering reservoir. I ran the power wire behind the reservoir and wrapped it over and around the group of wires bundled together just behind the bar and hardware that holds the hood open. Once over to the terminal, the remaining wire was gathered and tie straped down. (Tighten the tie straps completely once your wiring is complete. It will make it easier if you need to adjust the wire slack later on.) I left enough length to connect the wire to the terminal. (Don't connect the positive terminal until all your wiring is complete.) On the right side, I didn't have a similar spot to mount the right wiring harness so I wrapped the wires over to the terminal and tie straped those down too. This group I gathered by the right light assembly to be tucked down by the other light wiring once the rest of the install was complete.



Bulb installation:
Undo the clip at the bottom of each light by pressing the tap and gently pulling down. Take a small philips screw driver... not a regular size one, but one of those shorter ones about 4" long. You could probably use a 90 degree philips socket wrench. The area behind the light assemblies is small, but large enough for you to get your hands in and change the bulbs. There are 4 screws around the bulb that lock the bulb into place. I was able to just turn the 2 center ones. Turn the left and right screws 1-2 rotations counter clockwise to loosen them slightly. Once loosened, grab the bulb securely and turn it also counter clockwise. The bulb will rotate and release so you can remove it... carefully. Try not to let the bulb come in contact with the housing assembly of the headlight. (I slipped the foam protection of the new bulb over the stock bulb and put it into the plastic case the new bulb came in for storage. I also marked the box left or right so I would know later what location the bulb was removed from.) Carefully position the new bulb down and insert the bulb into each assembly.

How do I know which way the bulb needs to go into the assembly? First, it can only go in one way. Watch the tabs on the bulb and align the slots on the light assembly. The "flat section of the plastic on the bulb end" will end up in the down position. Also the thin wire running under the bulb tip, will also end up down parallel to the ground. Make sure the bulb slots are all seated securely before turning the bulb clockwise and tightening the screws to secure the bulb. (Note: if bulb is not seated right, light output will not be balanced. If your output is not balanced... check your bulb seating first! ) If it is seated right, there will be no headlight balancing needed later on.


Ground wire installation:
Each ballast wiring harness requires that you ground the wire. Locate bolts along the frame that you can connect to and ground the wire carefully and securely. I close ones that I could attach under smaller frame bolts on either side.


Remaining wire installation:
Connect the two wires on each of the new bulbs into the main wire harness. The other wire clip of the harness, will attach to the factory clip that you removed earlier from your factory headlight bulb. Install the smaller boxes with double sided tape that we waited on earlier on both the left and right inside fender wells. Gather the remaining wires together on each side of the headlight assemblies. Connect the wires to the positive terminals. Tighten all tie straps completely and your ready to test! Your key isn't needed for the test, just rotate the switch on your headlights on the left of your stearing column. Did you get it? Good job! If not, recheck all your wire connections and connector clips. They need to be clipped securely.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here is a collection of shots before and after my install.



 

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Discussion Starter #5





As you can see, the output is outstanding, you truly won't see the difference until you have done the install yourself. I took a lot of pictures, and selected ones that provide the best selection of color that I could see. With that, I finished my install... cleaned up my tools and called another project to a close!


Want to find out more? PM Steve @ XenonDepot or call him directly (905) 660-0124 Tell him "famman" sent you! I am not a vendor, just telling you about a killer product. The sets retail for $224.99 before shipping for the Japanese bulbs (that I chose) and $284.99 before shipping for the Philips bulbs. Upon checkout enter the code "OC" for an additional $35 off on either kit. Other then the costs, its been noted that the Philips bulbs provide a little extra crisp light, and after a while of use, provide a little additional touch of blue. When I questioned Steve about the other differences like life expectancy, and quality of workmanship... I found that there wasn't much difference since the quality of both sets is top notch. On a side note, if you wanted to purchase new bulbs later... both bulbs will work with the same kit!

For more information regarding the Xtreme HID Lighting kits you can visit the link:
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/HID_Kits_s/21.ht


Like my upgrades? If you do and your looking to upgrade your rims and tires like I did as well... PM me or email me @ [email protected] for the current costs. I have helped several other Odyssey owners here and through Ebay upgrade or DEPAX their Odysseys sucessfully and safely. One thing I pride myself on is seller knowledge and buyer awareness. If you ask a question, your going to get a response back quickly with the information you request. Not a delayed response! I have several sets available and can set you up with a variety of takeoff options and tires. I can help you get setup right!

Next on the list, installation of a Alpine 10.2" roof mounted DVD player or dual 7" dual headrest DVD players!


 

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Dayum those are bright how is the glare since you dont have projectors retrofitted in the stock housing.
 

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Great now i need fog light hid install :stupid:
i can do it im just lazy lol
 

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Hi Tim,

Thank you for taking the time to post such a detailed write up of how to install our Xtreme HID kit in the Odyssey.

It's great to see that you are happy with your decision to go with the 9006 4300k HID kit.

As per the post, any odyclub member gets a $35 discount on our HID Lighting products simply by typing in coupon code "OC" upon checkout. If you have any questions/concerns please do not hesitate to send me a PM or email me at [email protected]

Steve
 

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MikeMargolis said:
GOTTA ASK A QUESTION:

Why on earth would you do this to a van that's still under warranty?
You missed this from the wiring section of the install instructions.

The whole system is "plug n play" but gives you the option to remove or install the system without any wire cutting, snipping, taping or funny electrical power additions.
 

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MikeMargolis said:
GOTTA ASK A QUESTION:

Why on earth would you do this to a van that's still under warranty?
Van still is under warranty... 3yr 36K. I have almost 12K on her already in 8 months.

And to answer your question... Why would I do this? Individuality! For the same reason you bought the $40K Touring... cause you wanted to.

I left the dealer yesterday evening after getting my 2nd free LOF changed. They have late service open till 9pm. Nice perk for a busy guy with a family and all. I stopped to adjust my seat, turned on my lights and proceeded to the edge of the dealership lot. I quickly glanced over my shoulder to see two sales people outside the dealership do a double take as I slowly pulled out the lot. :cool: enough said! :D
 

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MikeMargolis said:
GOTTA ASK A QUESTION:

Why on earth would you do this to a van that's still under warranty?
Magnuson Act.

basically, the dealership/Honda of America has to prove that the mod directly caused a defect.

example: adding HID will not void your warranty. Say the engine blew up, you're covered. Even something electrical like your RES, nav, etc. They must prove direct cause to void the claim against the warranty.
 

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En3D said:
Magnuson Act.

basically, the dealership/Honda of America has to prove that the mod directly caused a defect.

example: adding HID will not void your warranty. Say the engine blew up, you're covered. Even something electrical like your RES, nav, etc. They must prove direct cause to void the claim against the warranty.
Has anyone had to argue a mod like this with their dealership?
I would assume the dealership would 'assume' and blame the electrical mod (eg HID) causing any other electrical problems, rather than going through the arduous/impossible task of 'proving' that said HID mod caused another electrical problem.
I'd like to add HID's to my 2 wk old Ody, but am reluctant due to above issue.
 

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To some extent it's a non-issue since the XenonDepot kit is so well engineered.

Don't forget, this kit is fused at the battery and uses relays- this means it pulls 12 volts directly from the battery and the circuit is totally isolated from the stock wiring. Each lamp is separately fused and relayed, so if something did happen to one of them the other would still work.

famman, did you notice that the two fuse holders can clip to each other? Very slick.

Why do this? The same reason we don't all drive white Chevy Malibus!
 

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Hi,

We sell our products to numerous dealerships. They like the fact that we use a fused relay harness that powers the ballasts directly from the battery as opposed to the OEM wiring. This does not leave the OEM wiring at risk at any point in time. The harness also ensures that the ballasts get a constant 12V at all times.

As posted earlier, each side will have it's own fuse and relay meaning that it is completely independent of the other side. Should a fuse/relay ever go out on you only one side will be effected.

As per Famman's post, we are extending a $35 discount to odyclub members. All you need to do is type in "OC"as the coupon code upon checkout.

The kit used in this upgrade can be found here:

http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme_Digital_HID_4300k_Xenon_HID_Conversion_Kits_p/xt-4k.htm

Your vehicle uses a "9006" bulb meaning that you would need to order the 9006 fitment.

Again, don't forget to type in "OC" upon checkout to save $35.

Regards,

Steve
 
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