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They will do some mods to make it beefier and stand behind it for 3 years or 36K miles. But it will cost ~ $3600.00 .
I obviously like JK's cost much better. Mine ran $1450 by a Honda mech on the side. 25K now on this 3rd tranny.
If you haven't done them yet, do the rear main seal and rear motor mount while in there.
GL Joe
 

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I thought I'd update ya'll on my '03 Ody. I sold it to a year ago to a friend at 200,000 miles. I was the 2nd owner. Trans had the 3rd gear jet recall done early in its life by the original owner. I did have one solenoid go bad around 150k. I changed the fluid regularly. The transmission had a noticeable whine as long as I had it. My wife thought it was an ambulance coming to a wreck one time when I turned around in a traffic jam. Anyway, it finally gave out at 210k miles. The guy I sold it to owns a transmission shop. He put a reman in it and his wife is still driving it. I'd say that's a pretty good life for what has been a known liability on these vans. Enjoyed this forum. Gained a lot of knowledge here. Peace!
 

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Thanks for all the great information in this thread. I finally got P0740 and here's what I did to get it running again at least temporarily.

My 1999 Odyssey has 200k miles on an original transmission. I've changed the ATF at 100k and 150k with a single drain & fill of Honda ATF. The first signs of problems were an occasional TCS light, but it always went away. On my last long trip I got the TCS and then a P0740, and then shifts became noticeably hard going up. The "D" light never flashed and it still drove OK. After reading this thread I decided that my tranny might be shot, but I decided I should first clean the solenoid filters, install an inline filter, and triple change the ATF. This thread has been great but I think many things are better seen so I created this video of that process. https://youtu.be/Z5sRlSBGWyo You can also search in Youtube for "Fix Odyssey P0740 TCS Transmission Problem" by MITEEMAN. I found the oval filter in the lockup/shift solenoid was mostly blocked, and the middle of the 3 pipes in the linear solenoid was mostly blocked. The others were clear. I also collected samples of the ATF after each change and the differences are striking why you need to triple change.

I've only had 100 miles on it but so far so good. I suppose I may not really know until my next big trip. The previous post hints that the problem may be related to heat and being in Seattle may have helped last this long. If it comes back I may try changing the solenoids. I'm hoping it holds because my dealer wants $5000 for a rebuild tranny w/3yr warranty and that would be the end of the car.
 

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Honda1999Ody,

I hope your fix last for a while.

Did you ever experience any shuddering when shifting from 3-4? Around the speed of 40-50 mph, tach bet. 1500-2000 rpm? Or is it all hard shifting right at the start of it?
 

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Honda1999Ody,

I hope your fix last for a while.

Did you ever experience any shuddering when shifting from 3-4? Around the speed of 40-50 mph, tach bet. 1500-2000 rpm? Or is it all hard shifting right at the start of it?
I didn't drive it long (one afternoon) while it was having issues so I'm not sure, but I think it probably was between gears 2-3 and 3-4 while driving up to highway speeds. I'm not sure about RPM but I think highway ramp-up is usually higher in RPMs. I'm not sure how "shuddering" is defined. It wouldn't raise the RPMs. it just lurched and clunked into the next gear in a single action. It would not "chirp" the tires as I've seen on some videos. It only happened going up gears. I'm pretty sure it wasn't locking up because my last trip had awful gas mileage for mostly highway - 16MPG vs 22MPG just a few months ago. I didn't even know what lock-up was but since my work I think I can feel a 5th transition so I'm guessing that's it. I was also surprised that I didn't find more stuff jamming up the filters, so I'm hoping that means my tranny is still OK. On the lockup/shift solenoid the round filter was the plugged one and I believe that is for the shift solenoid A and not the lock-up solenoid.
 

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Thanks. For now that is my issue on my 99. It drives and shifts fine except for that sorta vibration right before it shift from 3rd to 4th gear. If I pass 2k rpm then there is no problem. NO shuddering. Anyways, I have been checking out a couple of ebay seller of rebuilt tranny for this engine. If you can find a shop that will remove the old and install this, add in a few hundred for shipping, here is a possible alternative. Will cost around 2-2.5K or so. 99 01 Honda Odyssey Reman Transmission B7TA w 24mo Warranty | eBay Or this other guy.....Honda Odyssey 1999 2001 V6 Remanufactured Automatic Transmission | eBay
 

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Wow, MITEEMAN! I am your subscriber on youtube, I thought you were in Hawaii from your videos.

Forget the dealer rebuild. If you have to get it done, find an independent with ATRA nationwide warranty re-builder and price it with 3 year warranty. It will be still expensive but will be under $3K.

If you did not change the pressure switches, you must do that. This recommendation goes to *anybody* who has even a hint of trouble with the transmission. Do fluid change and pressure switches change first. Total parts cost is $100 and relatively simple to do.
 

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If you did not change the pressure switches, you must do that. This recommendation goes to *anybody* who has even a hint of trouble with the transmission. Do fluid change and pressure switches change first. Total parts cost is $100 and relatively simple to do.
Can you elaborate on which switches you're talking about - possibly a part# and where is it located? I don't recall seeing that in the threads. I think I did see a pressure switch right above the lockup solenoid. Is the theory that the switches are signaling low pressure when it's actually not? The articles mentioned a few posts back seem to indicate that low pressure is a well known design problem. Unfortunately they didn't provide a clear off-the-shelf solution.
 

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I think those trans oil pressure switches are to the left of the solenoids. I think I see one of them at 4:40 of your video, it has a copper colored connector and it looks like you removed the connector. There are 2 and you can see them on this picture as number 14. Bernardi lists the p/n as 28600-P7Z-003.

http://www.thehondapartsstore.com/herson/jsp/catimgs/14s0x01/S0X4A0710B.gif
 

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Amazon sells them cheap for the aftermarket; made by SINS (or something like that)
One is easily accessed from the bottom and the other is from the top and trivial while you had removed the battery tray etc as it is underneath the throttle body.
 

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Excellent. May you have many more years and miles on the van. :cheers:

OF
 

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I was part of this tread about 4 years ago when my transmission began to slip/shift harshly at about 110K mi. I went through the process of replacing the screens, installing a Magnefine filter, doing the 4x fluid change, etc. The symptoms persisted and the screens plugged up again and again-even with the filter. Apparently there was so much debris it was constantly being reintroduced. Soon it failed and I bit the bullet for $3400 and got a rebuild unit installed. At the same time I installed a new filter and external cooler as it was required for the warrenty. I did a complete fluid change and new filter at about 10k mi. The "new" transmission feels fragile and not robust-like it belongs in a small car. The new transmission is about 4 years old but only 25K mi. Too bad such a nice van has a crappy transmission.
 

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exactly where is this located
i cleaned the filters on a pair of solenoids visible to the left of the batt well.

there is a filter but where?

this lock up switch where is that?
 

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Am I the only person that read this whole thread? TONS of great info!

For those saying the problem is somehow unique to Honda, or Ody - the whole industry has gone the way of disposable transmissions. Nothing's designed to be serviceable anymore. It's more profitable to pass the liability to a transmission remanufacturer, while a mechanic just changes parts.

I'm really liking the idea of getting a local club together, pooling resources to rebuild one right, and whoever's goes first is covered. Rinse and repeat. How hard can this be? Just take the time to do it right.

Lol maybe install a trap door so the internal filter can be changed? Once the ATF flow to the third gear clutch pack is modified to be reasonable and the same in the torque converter, changing that internal filter every 30k miles or so should make this drive train reliable?
 
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