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Pulled the top pressure sensor out. Broke and the plug also broke with the wire. Gonna replace it and the other sensor aswell next
 

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Instead of making lots of little posts, you can click the 3 dots next to the time when posted and select Edit.
 

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I'm having a hard time understanding what you're describing, so it goes into the forward gears correctly? all 5 gears upshift perfectly or is this a 4 clutch transmission? when it downshifts is it having a problem on one of the gears? make sure you listen and feel for every upshift and note if there's a problem, for example from 2nd to 3rd gear it slips, etc. stop chasing those solenoids, I don't know what info you read but I think you are chasing the wrong rabbit hole
 

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It's as if there isn't pressure. Like internal filter plugged. I got pressure switches coming try that. If not. Park it try and find some other sort of wheels. I'd like to keep the can and tear the tranmission apart.

Stick it in reverse takes a long time but then goes into reverse. Same with drive. But then slips out and goes back into nuetral
 

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Ok well if you're going to rebuild that transmission I have 29 videos, 15 hours worth of me tearing it down and rebuilding it from the ground up including the "root causes and fixes" if you will. it's on youtube under the account eksine. there is a how to remove the transmission. you're theories while , it appears that way to you isn't quite on point. the transmission does have a main filter in it, also should have a bypass hole so if it is clogged it bypassed that clog, unfiltered. there is a secondary external canister filter under the battery tray, that also should have a bypass, all assuming these are oem parts, if aftermarket than probably no. the dual solenoid on top has a plastic "adjustment screw" it is shaped in a pentagon. clockwise or counterclockwise adjustments will change your hydraulic pressure in the transmission. Don't mess with it if you have no idea what you're doing. that is only if your transmission is only slightly out of adjustment, since you have catastrophic pressure loss, your problem is elsewhere. the second problem you have is that a pressure loss, which is your theory for right now, means either the main gear inside the main valve body is leaking fluid because it's chipped a tooth or worn down, whatever. this would cause an overall pressure loss. another reason would be that due to a full filter, all debris has worn down the valves over time and it causes leaks around those valves. you could fix that by buying oversized valves, but likely it means getting another transmission to start on a known good core. another theory that you haven't thought of is if it's an electronic malfunction. the ECU serves double duty as the engine control unit as well as the transmission control unit. to reset it unplug the battery and let it sit for a while. a few days if possible, than reconnect and see if the ECU is reset. if that still doesn't fix it it's still possible the ECU is bad there is actually a way to test your low pressure theory. the left end cover on that transmission has 10mm bolts that are acting as caps for the moment. it's designed for a technician/ engineer to test the pressure, there's several bolts with washers. I have no clue what each one is or how to test it, but that's how you do it. the only way to even get a clue about what's going on is to open up that transmission. but like I said, the filter isn't the problem it's somewhere else. also like I mentioned watch those 29 videos, plus the other one, you'll get a better idea as to what I'm saying
 

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Ok well if you're going to rebuild that transmission I have 29 videos, 15 hours worth of me tearing it down and rebuilding it from the ground up including the "root causes and fixes" if you will. it's on youtube under the account eksine. there is a how to remove the transmission. you're theories while , it appears that way to you isn't quite on point. the transmission does have a main filter in it, also should have a bypass hole so if it is clogged it bypassed that clog, unfiltered. there is a secondary external canister filter under the battery tray, that also should have a bypass, all assuming these are oem parts, if aftermarket than probably no. the dual solenoid on top has a plastic "adjustment screw" it is shaped in a pentagon. clockwise or counterclockwise adjustments will change your hydraulic pressure in the transmission. Don't mess with it if you have no idea what you're doing. that is only if your transmission is only slightly out of adjustment, since you have catastrophic pressure loss, your problem is elsewhere. the second problem you have is that a pressure loss, which is your theory for right now, means either the main gear inside the main valve body is leaking fluid because it's chipped a tooth or worn down, whatever. this would cause an overall pressure loss. another reason would be that due to a full filter, all debris has worn down the valves over time and it causes leaks around those valves. you could fix that by buying oversized valves, but likely it means getting another transmission to start on a known good core. another theory that you haven't thought of is if it's an electronic malfunction. the ECU serves double duty as the engine control unit as well as the transmission control unit. to reset it unplug the battery and let it sit for a while. a few days if possible, than reconnect and see if the ECU is reset. if that still doesn't fix it it's still possible the ECU is bad there is actually a way to test your low pressure theory. the left end cover on that transmission has 10mm bolts that are acting as caps for the moment. it's designed for a technician/ engineer to test the pressure, there's several bolts with washers. I have no clue what each one is or how to test it, but that's how you do it. the only way to even get a clue about what's going on is to open up that transmission. but like I said, the filter isn't the problem it's somewhere else. also like I mentioned watch those 29 videos, plus the other one, you'll get a better idea as to what I'm saying

Thank you!! I'm waiting on the oil sensor got two coming I'll swap those. Since I did brake the top one....
I can get it into reverse at the moment. It works. But drive and ant other doesn't engage. Also I unhooked cooler line while motor was running while running fluid over magnants and pouring it back in. (,With one liter extra new stuff.) Then I drained tranmissiom from bottom and refilled. Made zero difference.
Had pressure lol. How will it act with a bad second oil pressure sensor?

Second clutch switch* I got two coming
 

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The "pressure" observed at the ATF cooler is merely residual. Full line pressure must reach the clutches to engage them.

The transmission case has pressure test ports for each of the clutches, plus one for line pressure in N or P.

Your method of reusing "demagnetized" ATF is creative but possibly counterproductive. The first step to resolving any transmission issue is to install pristine, clean fluid. ATF is cheaper than parts, or even your time and effort.
 

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I didn't have access to a filter. Transmission guy told me to flush all the crap because I first expected torque converter failure. Megnants was to catch metal lol.
Those pressure test ports would be the two switches I ordered? One in top one in front? I have replace the fluid twice within 5000km now.

Like I said. On removal of the top clutch pressure sensor it fell apart in peices. Perhaps it was broken. I'll replace it. And the one below. Ordered them both.

Thanks for help.
 

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Those pressure test ports would be the two switches I ordered?
Pressure would be the same at the switch as at the test port. However, they are different parts. Each test port is sealed by a bolt with an aluminum washer.

The advantage of the test ports is that pressure can be measured without affecting transmission operation, such as would occur by temporarily replacing a switch with a sender.

Also, there are more test ports than switches e.g. 1st, 2nd, and 5th clutches.
 

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You should only run your van/transmission with all external solenoids/sensors in working order. Testing it with a bad one is pointless. And get the code if you have your CEL. Once all selonoids and sensors are good and the transmission still slips out of gear its more or less done and needs a new one. Here is the specs for the solenoids when I did my tranny swap. new how to remove transmission video coming, step by step
 

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Thanks! I'm still waiting for parts. Stupid snow storm.
Tuesday amazon says.
Like I said... When it first started it would drive fine no slipping and shift. Then after 8 10 seconds would shutter like crazy then drop out of gear. Reverse does its own thing seems to hold better.
The van seems to act the same weather that second switch sensor thing was in or not. Also the plug came off in peices and sensor broke apart just like the knock sensor did lol. Fingers crossed.

If it's no good. What would the OEM ground effects fetch me. There is couple cracks now on it.
 

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So I removed every sensor. Replaced the top linier solinoid. Pressure sensors there's only 2
No screens plugged. I suspect just a broken transmission. Something internal if everything on it checks out fine. Lame. Do remanufactured transmissions useally come with sensors and solinoids?


  1. Edit. I found a 2003 tranmissiom one with a filter. Recently rebuilt. Will that work in my 2001??? Thanks Jo
 

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Rebuilt transmissions don't usually come with new switches and solenoids. They are transferred from the old one.

No, that 2003 transmission won't work in your 2001. It's a 5-speed, versus your 4-speed.
 
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