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well...based on prior posts, LX only has one of these...and Honda's ad slogans used to say "we keep things simple"...HA!
 

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I have the same currently, sensor number 5 showing = d0, any idea what it means, I have not played around with the vent door yet. Thanks.
 

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I had this symptom on my 2005 EX-L...problem is caused by low refrigerant. I hate to ruin all the rocket science going on here, and I'm not saying that it COUDLN'T be something complicated, just that it's probably a lot simpler than what's going on here in the mad scientist club. ;)

Basically, find the leak. Mine was on the high side pipe connecting the rear unit to the front compressor. I put dye in the system, and thought it was antifreeze when I first saw it on my driveway....what a dummy, huh? But anyway, once I realized it was dye, it was easy to find the leak. The pipe had simply corroded due to the corrugated plastic covering the turn up into the cabin, which, instead of protecting it actually trapped water and road salts against the pipe, and ultimately corroded a hole in it.

Find the leak, hopefully it won't be too hard to fix, and you'll be good to go.
 

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I have noticed some crackling coming from the dash (b/ sounds like under my steering wheel) and then today my drivers side air went out b/ the passenger side works fine. I have a 2006 EX Odyssey. I have noticed that most of the replies on here deal w/ the AC problem b/ haven't seen anything tied in w/ the crackling. Do you think they are related and is there a fix that doesn't involve the shop?
 

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I have noticed some crackling coming from the dash (b/ sounds like under my steering wheel) and then today my drivers side air went out b/ the passenger side works fine. I have a 2006 EX Odyssey. I have noticed that most of the replies on here deal w/ the AC problem b/ haven't seen anything tied in w/ the crackling. Do you think they are related and is there a fix that doesn't involve the shop?
 

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We kept having a clicking sound on our driver's side. Now our air is cold when we switch it to 69 or below. I looked at the motor and can see it is having problems getting the lever to move into the proper place. Once it does, it changes the air. Tried the freon issue first, but still had the issue though it was a little low. Where is the best place to buy one of these parts? Is it relatively easy to replace?
 

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I had this symptom on my 2005 EX-L...problem is caused by low refrigerant. I hate to ruin all the rocket science going on here, and I'm not saying that it COUDLN'T be something complicated, just that it's probably a lot simpler than what's going on here in the mad scientist club. ;)

Basically, find the leak. Mine was on the high side pipe connecting the rear unit to the front compressor. I put dye in the system, and thought it was antifreeze when I first saw it on my driveway....what a dummy, huh? But anyway, once I realized it was dye, it was easy to find the leak. The pipe had simply corroded due to the corrugated plastic covering the turn up into the cabin, which, instead of protecting it actually trapped water and road salts against the pipe, and ultimately corroded a hole in it.

Find the leak, hopefully it won't be too hard to fix, and you'll be good to go.
Well...I never ran the previous code check...however, we're back at it...almost exactly 1 YR LATER....last time we had this problem, the dealer has us listed as coming in with it JUN 1, 2012...now, in JULY of 2013, the same issue has returned...I'll get it re-charged again, however, I would like the dye added to test for a leak...

However, I did run the self-diagnostic tonight...which I'd never done before, and it came up with a "J"...Short in Driver's Air Mix Control Motor Circuit...I suppose hat hopefully some kind of leak will be found, although now we're OUT OF WARRANTY...and wouldn't you know, last time they never ran dye to check for a leak!
 

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Happened again this year...almost exactly one year to the date...DIAGNOSIS:Coolant low...slow leak at schrader valves...replaced 2 schrader valves and o-rings, recharged system...all appears to be functioning well...we are about to leave (in 2 days) for a fairly lengthy trip...will post upon return if there is a problem with this fix...out $130...
 

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I'm having a similar problem to what you guys have mentioned, with a slight twist.

The van is heating and cooling properly so I think the freon issue is out. What I get is the mixer under the drivers dash going all over the place. It can't find a spot and settle down. If I move the set temperature to LO or HI then the mixer will go to the max or min and hold. Any other temp in between, it goes back to hunting.
I thought it might be sensing the wrong car temp but that # in the diagnosis is reading stable
The only one really moving is the position of the drivers mixer sensor ( which makes sense since that's what it is doing). I can't figure out what is telling that mixer to be all over the board.

Any one seen this?

Thanks
Jeff
 

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I've got the same problem here, passenger side blows ice cold air and drivers side is like the heater is on. 90% sure its the air mixer as I had diagnosed a "crackling" noise that I've had for a while to the drivers side mixer. Saw it struggling to move correctly, fiddled around with it and now there no more cold air.
 

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For starters, thank you for the info. After reading this post, I bought and installed a new Driver's side motor as my A/C was blowing hot on driver and cool on passenger/rear. After spending $135 on the part and practicing to be a contortionist, I got the motor in....it didn't fix the problem. To digress a bit, I put the leak finder stuff in about a month ago. I could not find a leak anywhere; however, there was always some fluid around the low side valve. After trying to recharge it again, the schrader valve started pissing out coolant (and leak detector) and wouldn't stop until it dropped below 30psi. I went to Autozone, bought a $4 Schrader Valve kit, tightened the valve (1/8 turn) and poof, no more leak and lots of cold air everywhere. I recommend this little step before blowing big $$$ by throwing parts/mechanics at it. BTW, replacing a valve is pretty simple. Just google it and there are YouTube videos out the yang. Good luck and God bless.
Semper Fi,
Big Country
 

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My wife ran into this problem on the way home from work. HOT air from the driver side and cold air from the passenger side. I knew immediately that it wasn't mechanical but rather electrical since it happened so quickly. I searched google and came across this thread. For me, the blender motor was stuck in the open position.

I moved the drivers side seat all the way back and pressed in the parking brake for clearance. I laid on my back on the floor board and searched for the dark grey box with a green plug and white arms near the center console. Once I found it, I turned on the van and set the AC to LO. All I did was lightly touch the arm on the blender motor and it popped to life. The drivers side vents went from HOT to cold instantly. If it happens again, I will continue to fiddle with the box until it finally dies.

Thanks Odyclub!

2007 Honda Odyssey Touring dePAX'ed with BMW M5 replica wheels
 

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fixed it.. for now

My wife ran into this problem on the way home from work. HOT air from the driver side and cold air from the passenger side. I knew immediately that it wasn't mechanical but rather electrical since it happened so quickly. I searched google and came across this thread. For me, the blender motor was stuck in the open position.

I moved the drivers side seat all the way back and pressed in the parking brake for clearance. I laid on my back on the floor board and searched for the dark grey box with a green plug and white arms near the center console. Once I found it, I turned on the van and set the AC to LO. All I did was lightly touch the arm on the blender motor and it popped to life. The drivers side vents went from HOT to cold instantly. If it happens again, I will continue to fiddle with the box until it finally dies.

Thanks Odyclub!

2007 Honda Odyssey Touring dePAX'ed with BMW M5 replica wheels

Had the exact same problem some up tonight when my wife was driving home. 2007 EX-L. In my case it was also the control arm was stuck in the closed position (grey box, green plug, white arm, by center console). I played with the arm while AC on. then I turned the AC temp all the way down, to the lowest setting, then it slid out of the stuck position and started working normally with cold air in both sides when I returned the temp to 65. So for me it was that arm got stuck on one position. ANybody know what type of lubricant I could put on that [plastic arm assembly? Thanks, everyone! This forum is awesome.
 

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Had the exact same problem some up tonight when my wife was driving home. 2007 EX-L. In my case it was also the control arm was stuck in the closed position (grey box, green plug, white arm, by center console). I played with the arm while AC on. then I turned the AC temp all the way down, to the lowest setting, then it slid out of the stuck position and started working normally with cold air in both sides when I returned the temp to 65. So for me it was that arm got stuck on one position. ANybody know what type of lubricant I could put on that [plastic arm assembly? Thanks, everyone! This forum is awesome.
Silicone or Teflon Spray will be fine.
 

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First...your dealer is a hack, so stay away from them.
- If you have COLD air on pass side, this means your AC system is working fine.
- When you have a differential (hot one side, cold the other side), then one of the "blend door motors" is defective.

Relevant Thread from Honda Pilot:
Gurgling / Grinding from under dash near HVAC...RESOLVED!! - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums
(BTW...PN for Honda Pilot is 79160-S0X-A01).
CNN, Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I followed the lead of "belundy" in post 18 of that thread. He repaired the part by opening it and cleaning it. That worked for me. See the photos below.

Note: Some clips may break when you take it apart but the screws will hold it all together once you mount it back onto the car.

Warning: There's a DC motor in there and it will run in either direction so it's important to note the motor position when you remove it to clean the contacts. If you put it back incorrectly, your system will work in reverse (producing heat when calling for cold and vice versa) - ask me how I know.

MotorOnCar_IMG_2217.jpg Inside_Motor_IMG_2214.jpg Duct_IMG_2215.jpg
 

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I had this issue on a cold morning, A/C not involved. Driver's side blowing max hot while the passenger side moderated. The only way I could resolve it was taking the driver's temperature to LO, whereupon the heating ceased. Then I could set the same temperature again (72?) and all worked normally. I have a heard a ticking/crackling sound in the dash recently, even with the engine shut off. This may all relate to the driver's blend motor. When it bothers me enough, I'll disassemble and do Geobrick's clean up suggestion.
 

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My odyssey is experiencing the gurgling sound under the dash as well as the hot air on drivers side vents. I can normally resolve the temperature issue (temporarily) by turning off 'sync' and turning the drivers side down to "LO", wait a few seconds, then slowly bring it back to the desired temperature. This has been bugging me for some time, so I did some searching and came across this thread. I will be detailed in my findings.

I tried some of the diagnostics tests for the climate control:
  1. Self-diagnostic function found here: 2006 Odyssey EX - AC Diag:
    • Turn the ignition switch ON (II)
    • Press and hold the OFF button. While holding the OFF button, press the rear window defogger button five times within 10 seconds. Release the OFF button.
 NOTE: All the LEDs and LCD segments should blink three times, then the self-diagnostic begins. Wait for about one minute for the self-diagnostic to complete.
 If there is any problem in the system, the temperature indicator will light the AUTO indicator and the segment (A through N) corresponding to the error. The temperature indicator will then alternate every second between displaying ''88'' (all segments lit) and the error code segment (A through N) and AUTO indicator. To determine the meaning of the DTC, refer to the link above.
 If there are no problems detected, the segments will not illuminate, and the system will appear to be turned off.
      • result: no errors (system turned off after tests, no lights)
  2. From this thread ([URL="http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/46646-hot-air-driver-side-vents-cold-passenger-side-post441952.html#post441952”]”Hot air on driver side vents - Cold on passenger side” - reply #4[/URL])
    • Switch the ignition to off
    • While holding AUTO and recirculation button start the engine. Release after engine starts
    • Move through sensor numbers by pressing the rear defrost/defogger button.
 [**] This site helped understanding some of he values [URL="http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/12/SNB6E12K71100000000BBAT20.html”]”Self-diagnostic Function with the HDS”[/URL], but this is for a different vehicle (Honda Civic 2006).
      1. In car temp (°C)
        • result: 28 (82F)
      2. Outside temp (°C)
        • result: 23 (73F)
      3. Solar radiation sensor value : Dark =00, flashlight=04, cloudy=10, Sunny=65
        • result: 23 (indirect sun)
      4. Evaporator Outlet temperature (°C)
        • result: 19 (66F)
      5. Driver's Air mix opening (% of opening - Lower value indicated cold air distribution, higher value indicates warmer air)
        • varied with temp setting. I selected “SYNC” and changed the temp setting.
        • Results shown as - “Temp: value” below
          • HI: F0/F1/F2/F3
          • 81-86: changed rapidly between 29 and 62
          • 76-80: changed rapidly between 24 and 40
          • 70-75: changed rapidly between 03 and 23
          • LO: C8
        • I could hear the ‘gurgling’ sound when values for sensor #5 were changing rapidly. According the thread [URL="http://www.piloteers.org/forums/14-problems/20231-gurgling-grinding-under-dash-near-hvac-resolved.html”]”Gurgling / Grinding from under dash near HVAC...RESOLVED!!”[/URL], the gurgling sound is caused by Blend control motor.
        • This part can be cleaned according to [URL="http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/46646-hot-air-driver-side-vents-cold-passenger-side-post1191130.html#post1191130”]”Hot air on driver side vents - Cold on passenger side” - reply #57[/URL]
        • 2005 Odyssey Touring part # 79160-SHJ-A41 (I called a local dealer for the part #), confirmed here [URL="http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/46646-hot-air-driver-side-vents-cold-passenger-side-post721176.html#post721176”]”Hot air on driver side vents - Cold on passenger side”- reply #30[/URL]: Driver side is 79160-SHJ-A01, Pass side is 79170-SHJ-A41.
          • Local dealer: $181.94 + tax
          • Majestic Honda: [URL="http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ODYSSEY&catcgry2=2005&catcgry3=5DR+EXL-T++%28RES+NAV%29&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=HEATER+UNIT”]link[/URL], $93.85 + $12.14 ship + $4.95 handling
          • Bernardi: [URL="http://www.bernardiparts.com/products/79160-SHJ-A41.aspx”]link[/URL], $98.34 + $16.31 (UPS Ground)
          • 1Honda Parts: [URL="http://www.1hondaparts.com/oe-honda/79160shja41?search_str=79160-SHJ-A41”]link[/URL], $105.67 + 11.97 ship
        • Another thread had the part number as 79160-S0X-A01, guessing this is for a different year Odyssey.
      6. Passenger's Air mix opening (% of opening - Lower value indicated cold air distribution, higher value indicates warmer air)
        • varied with temp setting. I selected “SYNC” and changed the temp setting.
        • Results shown as - “Temp: value” below
          • HI: 99
          • 85: 55
          • 80: 34
          • 70: 02
          • 60: 02
          • LO: 02
      7. Driver's vent temp (°C) :huh:
        • varied with temp setting. I selected “SYNC” and changed the temp setting.
        • Results shown as - “Temp: value” below
          • HI: 52
          • 86: 50
          • 80: 36
          • 70: 11
          • 60: 62
          • 58: 67
          • LO: C1/C2
      8. Rear In car Temp (°C)
        • result: 28 (82F)
      9. Rear air mix (% of opening - Lower value indicated cold air distribution, higher value indicates warmer air)
        • varied with temp setting. I selected “SYNC” and changed the temp setting.
        • Results shown as - “Temp: value” below
          • HI: 96
          • 80: 50
          • 74: 18
          • LO: 73
      10. (shows as 0) Rear vent temp :huh:
        • varied with temp setting. I selected “SYNC” and changed the temp setting.
        • Results shown as - “Temp: value” below
          • HI: 50
          • 80: 34
          • 70: 09
          • 65: A3
          • 60: B5
          • LO: C0
I have not decided which path I will go down (cleaning vs new part). I will post again to this thread when I finish.
 

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5. Driver's Air mix opening (% of opening - Lower value indicated cold air distribution, higher value indicates warmer air)
  • HI: F0/F1/F2/F3
  • 81-86: changed rapidly between 29 and 62
  • 76-80: changed rapidly between 24 and 40
  • 70-75: changed rapidly between 03 and 23
  • LO: C8
7. Driver's vent temp (°C) :huh:
  • HI: 52
  • 86: 50
  • 80: 36
  • 70: 11
  • 60: 62
  • 58: 67
  • LO: C1/C2
10. (shows as 0) Rear vent temp :huh:
  • HI: 50
  • 80: 34
  • 70: 09
  • 65: A3
  • 60: B5
  • LO: C0
The values above make more sense in context of this chart:

Display Reading (Alphanumeric)°C°F% open
A1 thru A9-1 thru -930 thru 16-1 thru -9
B0 thru B9-10 thru -1914 thru -2-10 thru -19
C0 thru C9-20 thru -29-4 thru -20-20 thru -29
D0 thru D9-30 thru -39-22 thru -38-30 thru -39
E0 thru E9-40 thru -49-40 thru -58-40 thru -49
F0 thru F9——————+100 thru +109

So based on this information I am guessing that the sensor that detects the % open for the air mix is misaligned/malfunctioning as the values I received would have the following meaning:
5. Driver's Air mix opening (% of opening - Lower value indicated cold air distribution, higher value indicates warmer air)
  • HI: F0/F1/F2/F3 (100 - 103% open)
  • 81-86: changed rapidly between 29 and 62
  • 76-80: changed rapidly between 24 and 40
  • 70-75: changed rapidly between 03 and 23
  • LO: C8 (-28% closed)
The information from sensors #7 & #10 now make sense:
7. Driver's vent temp (°C)
  • HI: 52
  • 86: 50
  • 80: 36
  • 70: 11
  • 60: 62 (air mixer malfunction, heating instead of cooling)
  • 58: 67 (air mixer malfunction, heating instead of cooling)
  • LO: C1/C2 (-21C/-22C or -6F/-8F)
10. (shows as 0) Rear vent temp
  • HI: 50 (122F)
  • 80: 34 (93F)
  • 70: 09 (48F)
  • 65: A3 (-3C or 27F)
  • 60: B5 (-15C or 5F)
  • LO: C0 (-20C or -4F) ... Now that's some cold air in the back.
I wonder sensor #10 uses a different scale as -20C --> 50C is a huge range for temperature out of the vent.
 
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