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The crank pulley bolt on my 2004 odyssey is rated to 180 ft lbs - my torque wrench only goes to 100 ft lbs - don't really want to buy a new one, or have to find one to rent. So is there any way I can tighten to 100 ft lbs, then tighten a certain number of turns past that to get to approx 180? I used a couple of craftsman 18" long 1/2" breaker bars and a 3 ft pipe to get it off - plan on using same to retighten. Any thoughts?
 

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You could use that 3-foot pipe and apply 180 / 3 = 60 pounds of force to the end of it. How much is 60 pounds? Experiment with your torque wrench to get a feel for it, but remember to consider the length of the torque wrench when comparing the torque with the pressure. If it's 1 foot long, it will take 60 pounds of force to torque to 60 ft/lb. If it's 2 feet long, only 30 pounds.

Don't go neanderthal with that pipe. You could easily get 450 ft/lb of torque with it.
 

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This is a good link explaining how an extension on the socket head end of your torque wrench will increase available torque:

Shop Talk forums

Here's the formula for calculating this:



To make it really simple: Measure distance between the center of the torque wrench handgrip and the center of the drive on your torque wrench (as in 3/8" drive, 1/2" drive, etc...the thing on which you mount the socket). Affix an extension to the drive end (not the handgrip) that is exactly this same length. This doubles the capacity of your torque wrench.

If you apply force to cause the wrench to indicate 90 ft-lbs. (for a beam wrench) or "click" at 90 ft-lbs. (for an impulse wrench), you have applied 180 ft-lbs.

OF
 

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It looks to me like those formulas are wrong. I think it should be
T_a = T_w * (L + A) / L
and
T_w = T_a * L / (L + A)

Think of the case where A = 0. The above makes sense, but the one in the figure above has T_a = infinity. Not likely.
 

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It looks to me like those formulas are wrong. I think it should be
T_a = T_w * (L + A) / L
and
T_w = T_a * L / (L + A)

Think of the case where A = 0. The above makes sense, but the one in the figure above has T_a = infinity. Not likely.
Hmmm...you're right. The guy who typed in the stuff on top of that JPEG did it wrong. His "L" was supposed to be the length of the extension, NOT the length of the wrench! I did a quick "L and A = 1", ran it through with Tw=90 ft-lbs., came up with Ta=180 ft-lbs., and called it good without a second thought.

Good catch, oldskewel.

P.S: are you still selling those screens & gaskets?

OF
 

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Hmmm...you're right. The guy who typed in the stuff on top of that JPEG did it wrong. His "L" was supposed to be the length of the extension, NOT the length of the wrench! I did a quick "L and A = 1", ran it through with Tw=90 ft-lbs., came up with Ta=180 ft-lbs., and called it good without a second thought.

Good catch, oldskewel.

P.S: are you still selling those screens & gaskets?

OF
Yes, I've still got these transmission screens and gaskets:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/23-bu...and-new-99-04-odyssey-transmission-parts.html
Please PM if interested.

Regarding the torque stuff, it's sometimes nice to see that the stuff I learned 25 years ago can still help. But in practice I usually do what in4mation says and stand on the breaker bar at the appropriate point.

As I recall, from when I did my TB, due to the location, I was not able to stand on it. So I torqued to the max of my biggest torque wrench, probably around 140 ft-lbs, and then switched to a breaker bar and tried to push harder (based on a higher force, not more rotation) by whatever was needed.
 

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Get one of your kids who weigh about 60 lbs.
A 10-11 year-old kid is about right.
Tell the kid to stand at the end (wear shoes to prevent injury from slipping off) of the 3ft pipe.

3ftx60lbs = 180 ft-lb torque. Basic Physics.

The other option is use Volvo Axle nut torque:
* 90 ft-lb + turn another 60 degrees.
 

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actually the correct way to do it according to the autozone manual online which was spot on when doing my timing belt said 47 foot pounds then mark the bolt and position on the bolt head and crank pulley and turn additional 60 degrees. I think on the 2nd page or the page on power steering belt it explained it further by saying 60 degress is actually the difference between the points on the bolt itself, so look at a flat side on the bolt and look at the 2 points (corners) point to point should be 60 degrees. here's the link, if I missqouted someone correct me: http://www.autozone.com/repairguide...2/_/P-0996b43f80374e20?CJPID=4142109&cmpid=cj

this is for my 2002 odyssey, check if its the same for a 2004

*yeah just looked, looks like the crank pulley bolt is 6 sided which means 360 divded by 6 is 60, so my info *should be correct
 

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hey I just did this. my harbor freight torque wrench goes up to 150 foot pounds so I used that, then I just treated it like a large bolt and did it by feel, I started with just my foot then used a 2 foot 1" steel pipe and then used my arms, I am pretty weak and did not use my whole strength, maybe 60-70 percent and I probably can only bench press about 100 pounds. The 150 foot pounds is a good reference, I went till I felt the bolt settle in just a little bit more maybe 10 or 15 degrees after the 150 ft lbs. When I took this pulley off a month ago I had to use a 4 foot cheater and lift with my arms, again I'm not strong, but the pulley inside where the holder tool grabs onto, that cracked, I cracked the pulley! I should have known there is no way that was normal. I was using probably 80% lifting strength, not sure if people can lift more than they can bench but the cheater bar, had I let it go could have shattered my foot, that's how much snap the cheater bar had. again not normal, and I think it was the original belt, so it must have been like that from the factory or it gets torqued by the motor just by the engine running normally
 

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Got the Rachet Helper torque 4x multiplier on amazon, new tool and it works about $75
 
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