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Discussion Starter #1
Hi - I have a 2007 Ody I am just trying to nurse though the winter at this point, it'll be sold as-is once the spring comes.

For the last year or so, I've had the 'burping' passenger sliding door issue, where it closes, but burps back open again.
The battery would drain if it wasn't driven daily. Both sliding door cables are cut, btw.

I read thru all the other posts about the PSD actuator micro switch, but this vehicle has had its day...and I have some new info to add here.
Basically I don't want to invest time in replacing anything inside the sliding door, and I can live with all the stuff that this workaround leaves disabled.

I got the PSD door to finally close by manually shutting it, and before it burps back out, I pull the PSD 20A fuse in the passenger panel.
Then I trained the family that this door was permanently out of service.

The phantom current was still draining my battery overnight, which was a bit of a surprise...

As a bonus, the single (thanks, Honda) drivers side physical lock on this van no longer works, so when the battery drains down, I get to break into the vehicle! Needless to say, we started leaving a door unlocked.

From last summer onwards, I bought a booster pack (GooLoo, good unit) which would reliably let me boost the car if we left it a couple of days. I have used this unit literally 30 times in the last 6 months, and it is excellent, but will not boost the van if it's been sitting a week or two.

Finally, on a warm day just after Christmas, I decided to get serious about the phantom current. Put an ammeter between the neg terminal of the battery and neg cable, and began pulling fuses. (BTW - make sure you know your radio code at this point).
I found the pulling the left most 40A fuse in the under the hood fuse box made the current go from 0.44A to 0.004A.
I disconnected the ammeter, and started the van up to see if it would work.

What this controls:
interior lights
power locks (when vehicle off)
remote lock/unlock
radio
(maybe something related to sliding doors - actuator?)

Everything else on the seems to work fine. (Remember my PSD has been declared 'dead', tho).

For the past 2 months I've been living with that - and the battery is holding charge perfectly even through some minus 30 days.
I'm being super careful about leaving a door unlocked so I can get back in...but that's because of my physical lock issue.

And...if i really want the radio back - I just plug that 40A back in, key in the radio code, and all that stuff comes back for that trip.

Hope this is helpful to somebody.

Pat B
2007 Odyssey

This is the 40A fuse that that my phantom drain was going thru:


20200223_133701.jpg
 

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Could you possibly run a fused wire into the car to a switch on the dash so you can flip it on and off when you want the radio?

I feel like that would be more convenient than having to pop the fuse back in every time

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Fuse 7 labeled "Backup" under dash (kick panel fuse box) drivers side would probably stop the phantom current also. I think pulling it will make your interior lights quit working with key off. You still might have to re-enter the radio code after turning the key off as apparently "Backup" supplies power to some devices when the key is off. I think, (not 100% sure), you could still use your radio without replacing fuse 7, (seems like it was 7.5A), but prolly have to reenter code. Anyway you would not have to lift the hood.
 

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You could also just fix or lube the microswitch that is causing the draw. You can get a lube straw in there to do it, it worked on my van. May take several attempts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You could also just fix or lube the microswitch that is causing the draw. You can get a lube straw in there to do it, it worked on my van. May take several attempts.
Could you give me a little more details on where I should be spraying, inserting? I've tried this and it's just been makign a mess...P
 

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I think cahaak means spraying something like WD40 or Walmart Super Tech lubricant into the rear latch on the back of the door, (with the door open you can see where the catch fits into the latch).
You can insert the spray tube into the opening and by spraying around in there you can get lube on the moving parts to free them up, seems to work in some instances.
You may need to pull fuse 7 on drivers side and perhaps the fuses for P Sliding Door one on each side, (under dash in kick panel area), and wait a few minutes before replacing them to get it to reset, (or the 40 A one under the hood). The lube also made the black plastic rain guards come off, they were already a bit loose. I stuck them back on with weather strip adhesive. Those help at keeping water out of the latch assembly.

In a different thread I saw where someone had removed one of the three bolts on the back of the door at the rear latch and sprayed in there also.
The object of spraying lube in there as I understand it is to free up a stuck spring loaded lever that pivots on a pin when the rear latch operates. Apparently it gets dirty and gets stuck.

The drivers side fuse is #13 L PSD CLOSER 20A, passenger side is #8 R PSD CLOSER. Not sure if these have to be pulled to reset or not. As best I can remember pulling these two fuses did not stop the phantom current draw, that was fuse 7 BACKUP on drivers side.

Both sides on our 07 EX were messed up. On our van the lube did not work as that was not the problem. I replaced rear latch assembly on the passenger side with a new one (about $225 shipped). That fixed that side. That led me to believe that it was the rear latch mechanism causing the problems. But the other side was still not working right and current draw was still 375 mA.

On the drivers side:
I had checked the 2 micro-switches and they seemed to be ok and there is a rotating switch with 2 position indicators it also seemed ok.
I checked the resistance of the motor leads and it was 27 ohms which seemed high for a motor to me.

So I took the screws out of the motor and pried it open and cleaned the brush contact area on the commutator with very fine sandpaper by putting the armature
in a drill and spinning it with a narrow strip of sandpaper wrapped around the commutator and that fixed the latch on the drivers side.
It also fixed the 0.375 A, (375 mA), current draw, now the current draw on our van drops to 0.028 A, (28 mA) when the interior lights go out.

I wish I had tried to fix the passenger side latch the same way instead of buying a new one.

From what I've read on this forum and others, the problem could be (A) frozen parts in the latch assembly or (B) microswitch(s) not working right, either bent arms or broken inside, or (C) the motor needs cleaning inside and perhaps new brushes, the old brushes are still working on ours.
Also a lot of reports about the rollers failing.

After cleaning the motor on ours it even sounds different when it latches the back part of the door. The motor resistance went from about 27 ohms to about 1 ohm.
With only 12 - 14 volts that resistance kept the motor from having full power to latch the rear of the door.
 

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Thank you for this post. Very informative. Your issue, as you found out was faulty rear latch modules on both sides. Very common. The 0.4 amp parasitic current draw is a telltale sign of this. Most people simply replace the latch module part (about $200), as you did on one side. Some people have had sucess cleaning or replacing the microswitches. Yours is the first I've read about somebody taking the internal motor apart to fix the issue. Well done!
 
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