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Oh my, this manual is arranged differently than earlier ones. Instead of grouping in sections like Engine, Transmission, Body- it's broken out alphabetically with Power Outlet that you found earlier and then a separate Power Socket that you show above.
Rear Relays (Body Electrical) followed by Rear Suspension (Suspension) and then Rear Defogger (Body) - a different way of arranging things that I was not aware of.

Apparently you should be able to press the tabs (A) and remove the socket. Press it with two picks? Looks like it should slide out without removing any panels. But I tried on my outlet which is similar, but gave up. Further down for the Cargo Area Accessory Power Socket, it says to remove the trim panel and directs you to find: TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - REAR SIDE elsewhere in the manual where it shows how to remove that panel.

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So lets start with "Center Lower Console Removal/Installation on Pages 2270 & 2271.
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So what we've been referring to as the Kick Panel or Side Panel, the manual calls Heater Panel! But you already removed them!
Note step 2 = Remove.. Center middle panel and Passenger's middle panel.
You'll find these instructions on page 2263 through 2265. If you scroll up to page 2259 you'll find the overview Component Location Index for the Dashboard which lists many of the names used.
Back to page 2272, you' see 4 screw A's which were revealed after removing those middle panels. Screws B were revealed after removing the Side/oops! Heater Panels!
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Then on the next page you'll see the different clips and connectors that need to be removed.
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With the lower console removed, it should be easier to get to that blasted accessor socket!


So, it's all there in the manual- however, sometimes you have to jump around to find your way! I hope this helps you to use the Service Manual better. At least here it's all in one volume, not two. And I see that it covers 2011-2017, not just 2014 as advertised in the link!
edit- for some reason I had it stuck in my head that it was listed as 2014 service manual vs. 4th Gen service manual. o_O
 
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Discussion starter · #43 · (Edited)
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Thank you. I think I need to learn how to use the trim tools to remove the panels first otherwise I will damage a lot more panels. I tried looking on YouTube but there doesn't seem to be any video on removing panels on the Honda Odyssey 2013. Most of them are for much later models. If anyone has any good YouTube videos for the Odyssey, please share.
Here are my trim tools
 
Discussion starter · #44 · (Edited)
So lets start with "Center Lower Console Removal/Installation on Pages 2270 & 2271.
...
So what we've been referring to as the Kick Panel or Side Panel, the manual calls Heater Panel! But you already removed them!
Note step 2 = Remove.. Center middle panel and Passenger's middle panel.
Thank you for your post. I am trying to understand what the Center Middle Panel is.
Can you please clarify what it is?
After I remove the passenger heater/side panel, if I am understanding correctly, that is the next panel to remove.
(I managed to remove the passenger heater panel without any damage 🙂)
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That's the panel here holding your usb accessory ports-
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Note that above this figure it said: 3.Remove screws (A, B).. (shown on previous illustration further above - I should have pasted Fig. 15 instead!)
which you need to do before 4. Remove the center console.
 
Discussion starter · #46 · (Edited)
That's the panel here holding your usb accessory ports-
View attachment 179019

Note that above this figure it said: 3.Remove screws (A, B).. (shown on previous illustration further above - I should have pasted Fig. 15 instead!)
which you need to do before 4. Remove the center console.
But that is not the Center Middle Panel. It is the Center Lower Console as the caption says!

Do I need to remove both these panels (see diagram below) before removing the panel Center Lower Console in Fig 15, 16?

Update: I went back and reread your post again, so I think I must remove them first, to expose the screws which hold down the Center Lower Console.
Note step 2 = Remove.. Center middle panel and Passenger's middle panel.
You'll find these instructions on page 2263 through 2265. If you scroll up to page 2259 you'll find the overview Component Location Index for the Dashboard which lists many of the names used.
Back to page 2272, you' see 4 screw A's which were revealed after removing those middle panels. Screws B were revealed after removing the Side/oops! Heater Panels!

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@likejudo Stepping back a bit, you initially mentioned that your phone was charging slowly with the front 12V outlet. What was the measured voltage of the outlet? Did to plug in other accessories to the outlet to assess the functionality? How long was the phone plugged into the outlet? Was the vehicle running during the entire duration of charging? How many different phone chargers have you tried? What phone do you have? What phone charger are you using?

It looks like there are two 12v outlets in your vehicle, do neither of them not charge your phone fast enough?

If the outlet is indeed bad then you can proceed to remove it.

With all of the progress you've made, it looks like you may be able to use a pry tool to remove the outlet from the front panel. Put the blades of the tool between the black ring and the panel, rock GENTLY, then rotate the blades 90 degrees rock again, repeat. You should hear a pop when a pressure clip releases. Repeat until it loosens up, you then should be able to pull it free.
 
Discussion starter · #49 · (Edited)
@likejudo Stepping back a bit, you initially mentioned that your phone was charging slowly with the front 12V outlet. What was the measured voltage of the outlet? Did to plug in other accessories to the outlet to assess the functionality? How long was the phone plugged into the outlet? Was the vehicle running during the entire duration of charging? How many different phone chargers have you tried? What phone do you have? What phone charger are you using?

It looks like there are two 12v outlets in your vehicle, do neither of them not charge your phone fast enough?

If the outlet is indeed bad then you can proceed to remove it.

With all of the progress you've made, it looks like you may be able to use a pry tool to remove the outlet from the front panel. Put the blades of the tool between the black ring and the panel, rock GENTLY, then rotate the blades 90 degrees rock again, repeat. You should hear a pop when a pressure clip releases. Repeat until it loosens up, you then should be able to pull it free.
Thank you for your reply. There is no space at all for a pry tool to fit in between the black ring and the panel. There is a sandwich of black plastic ring in between two metal rings. Please see picture attached. Please clarify if this is what you are referring to.
Also a week ago I destroyed the outlet by using a screwdriver to try to push the pin down from inside the outlet from the front of the panel. I had seen a YouTube video saying that you can remove the cigarette lighter by using a screwdriver and pushing the pins down. It does not work and I have destroyed the outlet and so I must replace it. You can see it in the picture attached.
To your other question, I've had this minivan since 2013 and used it with phones like Samsung Galaxy s6, S7, and now s21. Whenever we go on any trip even if it is only an hour long or so and I would connect the USB cable to the USB outlet that is in the glove compartment, it would drain the phone charge. In other words I could not have Google maps running and also charge it. Hence when I found a $20 USB voltmeter charger on the Amazon I thought I should perform this fix. Unfortunately I cannot go back as I really need to replace the outlet as it is now destroyed.
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@SparkyJJO noted in post #77, it looks like there is a plastic friction tab at the red arrow, probably one on the opposite side, or possibly there may be a total of 3 that are 120 degrees on either side of the one seen. You can try plugging in your car charger into the female outlet, push the tab in the photo and jiggle the adapter to free the friction tab. You may have enough play to free the other tab(s) to extract the plug.

Before installing your new outlet you may want to check the fuse that feeds the aux power plug. Also may want to check the voltage of the wires when the ignition is either on or in "acc".

Just re-read your last post, the USB port may possibly NOT be a powered port, so that may be the reason why you were losing charge--the phone was draining power looking for either wifi signals or using cell data for gps triangulation. If it was hooked up to a powered port it may not charge the phone in an hour but would certainly provide enough power to prevent power drainage. I typically use the cigarette lighter power adapter to charge our phones when on trips--less elegant than using USB, but the coiled cable is more robust than the charging/sync cables.
 
Discussion starter · #51 · (Edited)
@SparkyJJO noted in post #77, it looks like there is a plastic friction tab at the red arrow, probably one on the opposite side, or possibly there may be a total of 3 that are 120 degrees on either side of the one seen. You can try plugging in your car charger into the female outlet, push the tab in the photo and jiggle the adapter to free the friction tab. You may have enough play to free the other tab(s) to extract the plug.
The photo in #36 looks spacious but it is very tight - no room.
I think you have to press two tabs simultaneously - see the diagram of the outlet provided by user "kernel" in #41 - no room to do so from the back.
Have you actually done this yourself?
 
No, but have had encountered similar situations. Should be able to get by with one tab. May have to rotate outlet while keeping the first tab disengaged to depress the opposite tab. Would be helpful having a something like a small visegrip tool to grab the edge of the loosened outlet to keep it disengaged and possibly help rotating it. It looks like the outlet is damaged already. Could also try to grab the black edges of the outlet with a pair of channel lock pliers and squeeze gently in the same axis as the tabs.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
No, but have had encountered similar situations. Should be able to get by with one tab. May have to rotate outlet while keeping the first tab disengaged to depress the opposite tab. Would be helpful having a something like a small visegrip tool to grab the edge of the loosened outlet to keep it disengaged and possibly help rotating it. It looks like the outlet is damaged already. Could also try to grab the black edges of the outlet with a pair of channel lock pliers and squeeze gently in the same axis as the tabs.
Perhaps you can try this on your Odyssey and let us know if it works with a video or pictures
 
Discussion starter · #54 · (Edited)
It's all in the service manual, once you find the correct section to look!
@kernel I removed both the middle panels, Central and passenger. I also removed the screws at the top. But the screws at the bottom heater panels, I'm finding it hard to figure out. They are attached to black plastic and not the gray plastic of the panels. Do they need to be removed also?
I am wondering if it should not be because we want to remove the Center Lower Console panel and not the console itself. please correct me if I am mistaken.
Please see pictures (blue circles).

Screw attached to black plastic. driver side heater panel:
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removed 4 screws in blue
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screw attached to black plastic - passenger side heater panel.
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Perhaps you can try this on your Odyssey and let us know if it works with a video or pictures
Don't have a compelling need to pull out a perfectly good outlet. Just was suggesting that because it looks like the one you are dealing with has seen better days. I think you have made things a lot more difficult for yourself than necessary. That being said, most of us on this forum have been there and done that as well.

Did you happen to see this post? Pretty ingenious method of removal. It is located in the "related threads" section below this thread. I would imagine that the front outlets can be extracted the same way.
 
@kernel I removed both the middle panels, Central and passenger. I also removed the screws at the top. But the screws at the bottom heater panels, I'm finding it hard to figure out. They are attached to black plastic and not the gray plastic of the panels. Do they need to be removed also? Please see pictures.
The screw locations are indicated on this Figure 15:
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On your upper dash picture, I still see the 4 screws A. Is it a 'before' picture?
On this picture from you, B is this screw:
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You should be able to see that the black part is part of the panel.
The figure doesn't clearly show where the passenger side B screw is located, but you should be able to see the proper black part is part of the panel.

Don't forget, once all 6 screws are removed, the panel should pull off. The locations of the clips that have to pop off are shown in Figure 16.
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
The screw locations are indicated on this Figure 15:
View attachment 179049
On your upper dash picture, I still see the 4 screws A. Is it a 'before' picture?
On this picture from you, B is this screw:
View attachment 179050

You should be able to see that the black part is part of the panel.
The figure doesn't clearly show where the passenger side B screw is located, but you should be able to see the proper black part is part of the panel.

Don't forget, once all 6 screws are removed, the panel should pull off. The locations of the clips that have to pop off are shown in Figure 16.
@kernel Thank you for your reply.
Yes, The picture was a 'before' picture. I did remove the 4 screws.

I went ahead and removed the two screws attached to the black plastic of the heater panel area. Please see the pictures with all the screws removed. The console panel is quite securely attached there. I think there is more to it than the six screws. I do not want to yank it out and break something.
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Discussion starter · #58 ·
Don't have a compelling need to pull out a perfectly good outlet. Just was suggesting that because it looks like the one you are dealing with has seen better days. I think you have made things a lot more difficult for yourself than necessary. That being said, most of us on this forum have been there and done that as well.

Did you happen to see this post? Pretty ingenious method of removal. It is located in the "related threads" section below this thread. I would imagine that the front outlets can be extracted the same way.
@vango5 The idea of using the prongs of a paper binder clip also occurred to me (independent of that post) - I tried it last week. It did not work.
We do not know the steps he used to remove it and whether the 3rd row outlet is the same as the one in the front console.
If you have actually removed it successfully yourself.... I will be glad to learn how to.
 
The console panel is quite securely attached there. I think there is more to it than the six screws. I do not want to yank it out and break something.
Of course it's still securely attached. Besides the six screws, look at Figure 16 again and the clips holding it in.
Don't forget, once all 6 screws are removed, the panel should pull off. The locations of the clips that have to pop off are shown in Figure 16.
I'd start by the shift lever and pull so that the 3 clips on that side pop off. Then the center where it looks like one clip, and to the passenger side where there's a bunch more. I don't see any clips marked further below.
 
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