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How-to: Replace stock tweeters and woofers with aftermarket speakers

4K views 4 replies 1 participant last post by  eksine 
#1 · (Edited)
I replaced the stock 2002 Odyssey tweeter & woofer with Phoenix Gold z65cs and they were horrible, they sound worse than the stock speakers, so the stock speakers must be qood quality. Here's a how to in case someone finds better speakers to replace them with.
here are what stock tweeters look like
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next there's a back foam pad on the back, rip it off and fold it back like this
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next unscrew the center philips screw, it's on there tight but if you hold it tight enough you can unscrew it. next use a flat head to pry off the metal bracket holding the tweeter to it, use a twisting motion to separate the glue should look like this afterwards. I put the philips screw back on after taking off the bracket.

also important but not shown: cut off the connector and solder it to your new tweeter if you will be reusing your stock tweeter connectors and wires
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next use pliers to fold the braket ends a bit so they fit your new tweeter and the screw holes line up, you will reuse the philips screws originally from the bracket. the pair of aftermarket tweeter had multiple housings you can use to install it flush or surface mount (on top of surface). remove all of those extra housings. if you must just cut away the plastic circular ring on the tweeter grille if your new wteeter is too big and do not reuse the bracket. you might have to make a new bracket with a coat hanger type metal rod or strap. or you can just use glue to glue the tweeter to the grille, or you can cut a foam piece and stuff it inot the hole on top of the dashboard and lay your tweeter on top and than just install the grille over it. use ingenuity to make your tweeter fit, if you're lucky you can do it like this, this is the new tweeter mounted:
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next we tackle the new woofer, here is the stock one
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here's the back of the woofer. it is held in place by the center rivet, simply find a drill bit big enough and we will drill it out. notice there are no markings but if you follow the factory wires one is blue (positive) and one is maybe grey with a black stripe, stripes usually mean ground (negative). looking at the woofer from the back, the right side is positive, both connectors are identical so you can't tell using that method. you must also cut off the old wires from the woofer or carefully desolder them like I did:
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#2 ·
next here is the new woofer, all I did was lay the connector that I freed , put it on top of the new woofer and soldered it on. I did this for testing purpose to keep the factory connectors to see if these new one sound good (they didn't). if you want to keep this method I would add epoxy to the center, than continue adding flux and solder positive and negative from the connector to the new woofer
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it's good to use a sharpie and mark the connector before you remove it so you know which is positive.

note: another way you can do this is simply cut off your stock connector from the door panel and wire it directly. another even better way which I might do is simply locate the connector coming straight behind the audio receiver/ radio and cut the front sets of speaker wires, add in your own wires using 16 gauge pure copper (not copper clad aluminum, cheapo wires). you will remove the rubber boot on the door and fish your wire through there into the door panel and the other end gets hidden under the dash straight to your new crossover box or to the connector off into the receiver. anywhere there is a connector you will want to bypass so there isn't anything holding back the flow of electricity except the receivers back connector.

important: the front dash tweeter is simply split off from the front woofer. so you will branch off 2 sets of wires for the tweeters & woofers for both sets of front speakers. the stock wire gauge appears to be 18 gauge. the stock tweeter has a capacitor, that is it's built-in crossover
 
#3 ·
Both the front and back speaker are all 6.5" for all 4 speakers. here is the boot you have to remove and fish through to install your own speaker wires
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16 gauge wire doesn't bend well so use 18 gauge wire to fish it through the top tweeter hole and all the way down through the dashboard, use electrical tape and tape your new 16 gauge wire from the top, not the bottom, it gets stuck trying to fish 16 gauge from the bottom to the top. tuck your wires near the front of the dash at the bottom, here's pictures of the wiring tucked away, no zip ties needed. cut the wires closest to the receiver and splic them in
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#4 · (Edited)
Holy, look what I found out!
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those are polk t15 bookshelf speakers, they work just like on my onkyo home receiver! I was gonna buy morel tempo ultra 602 for $300 but if I can drop anything into my car and it works, why shouldn't I? does anybody know what crossover I would need? from partsexpress the best woofer they have is a Lanzar OPTI6PM 6.5" for $41, and a tweeter by peerless is like the same price. anybody know about crossovers?

also FYI the speaker wires running under the passenger side are near some large metal pipe. I don't know if that's for the heating/ AC but I put some black plastic conduit wrapping around those wires, the kind that has a slit running all down the midding of the plastic tubing, same as the stuff under the hood in the engine

this is hilarious, you can stick whatever you want in your car
 
#5 ·
also found these nice connectors in case you want to upgrade to 16- 12 gauge wire like I did. these are called xt60, do not use xt30, those are for 18 gauge or smaller wire, xt60 will accept up to 12 gauge, they also have xt90. these are used for drones/ lipo batteies, etc. the seller is SoloGood on amazon. this is the only one that's black, I got them because the yellow ones are probably made in china and people say they melt, these are probably the same, I'm just betting that since it's black maybe they uses ABS plastic? anyways these are the best rated connectors on that store $10 for a set of 10 with female and male ends
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