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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2003 Ody with 160,000 miles. Key will go into and out of ignition fine, but once in will not turn at all. Can pull out and in several times and sometimes will turn fine. There is no resistance to turning when it turns, just won't turn at all most of the time. I have tried lock-eze (graphite lub) but has no effect.

Have talked with my local Honda Service who want me to tow in and pay over $500 to replace the cylinder (maybe switch?) and reprogram the key. Local lock smith said he could fix and reprogram the key for a lot less.

Has anyone experienced this problem and/or removed the cylinder?

I have searched for the cylinder, but end up with the "ignition switch". Is this the correct part?

fwhitrock
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, doesn't help. Interestingly, when the wheels and steering wheel are straignt, the steering wheel is not locked. It will lock when turned about a quarter or third.
 

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I have the same problem on my 97. The dealership said $700.
I said no way. I leave the key in the ignition now. and lock the car with the spare key. I will have a locksmith take care of it tomorrow. It has randomly been whacky with this lock. 3 years ago it has acted up then went away. NOw it's back with a vengeance. This is a quality issue. I've have much older cars without a hiccup on the keys, now this? I hope the locksmith can fix it...
 

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me too!

My '02 Odyssey (185k) is parked at a local restaurant as we speak with the exact same issue. Happened to me last night.

I'm looking at my options.

My key was hard to push in that one time last night.... first time it has ever done that..... I jiggled it a little and it went in..... but won't turn at all..... and the steering wheel acted as if it wasn't locked..... but I turned it about 90° and it locked. Now I can't unlock the steering wheel at all. I even sprayed powdered graphite all in the key hole but and worked the key back and forth hundreds of times..... but no go. It will insert real easy and pull out real easy..... it just won't turn. My spare new key does the same thing as well. I've even stuck the key into the top of the steering column to unlock the gear shift lever.... and put the van in neutral and tried to crank it there..... but the key will not turn at all..... no matter what I do.

Honda wants $250 or so just for the tumbler kit. Assuming a locksmith will install it for $100 or so.... that is still $350.

I am hoping I can just call a locksmith and they will come out and put a new tumbler kit (probably not Honda brand)..... and code it for my current key for alot less.

Any updates fwhitrock?
 

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Have you tried liquid lubricant like wd-40?

What you need to replace if anything is the lock-cylinder assy, and it's part #(35100-S0X-A12) for $163.86 from hondaautomotiveparts dot com.

You'll want to doublecheck that part # if ordering to be safe, but it appears to include the mechanical, and the electrical portion that is a common point of failure.

It should be easy to install but I haven't looked in my manual to verify (I did the elec portion only on my van).
 

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jondotcom said:
Have you tried liquid lubricant like wd-40?

What you need to replace if anything is the lock-cylinder assy, and it's part #(35100-S0X-A12) for $163.86 from hondaautomotiveparts dot com.

You'll want to doublecheck that part # if ordering to be safe, but it appears to include the mechanical, and the electrical portion that is a common point of failure.

It should be easy to install but I haven't looked in my manual to verify (I did the elec portion only on my van).
We tried WD40 on the advice of a locksmith..... no workie either.

I ended up calling a mobile locksmith. They came out, made an assesment, and cut me a new key and it works fine. They had to reprogram the immobilizer thing..... but it works fine. $155 with them coming out and fixing it on the spot. I am glad I didn't have to fool with it. The said the shoulder on my old key was worn down some causing the issue. Funny this happened (worked one minute... then bang.....not work the next) like instantly....
 

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My 99 has done this for a long time. I've learned to pull the key out slightly and then turn. Might work for you too. It's become a habit now and I don't even think about it
 

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I've had issues as well

I had an issue a couple months ago. Started with hard to turn on occasion. Then once or twice hard to remove. Then all of a sudden nothing worked and I could not remove the key. Drove it that way a couple days until I made it down to the shop.
Talked with the dealer and they do not sell the key cylinder separately from the rest of the components. It was $250 for the complete assembly but I had already replaced the electrical part a year ago. They suggested a local lock shop where they sometimes get some work done.
Took it to the shop and he was able to replace the worn out lock cylinder for about $75 in a couple of hours. No new key needed so no reprogramming necassary.

99 Ody
224k miles
 

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I have a 2003 with 127,000 miles. A few weeks ago I had the problem of the key not turning, but with a few seconds of playing with it, I could turn it. Using a new key did not matter, nor did use graphite lubrication. A few days ago, it became dramatically worse and it would take 5 minutes or more to turn the key sometimes.
I took the car to a dealer today who replaced the switch, re-keyed it to the original, and provided a new key for $525. I had called a couple of locksmiths, but only reached answering machines and I needed to get this done, so I don't know if a locksmith might have fixed this for less. I also didn't have time to take it to an independent shop that I use, because they likely would have had to get the part and it would have been an overnight job.
 

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2003 Odyssey with 111,000 miles, key was sticking in the ignition lock, sometimes not going in, sometimes not coming out, many times not turning the car on. Dealer wanted $450 to replace the whole thing; a locksmith near the major car dealership area of town fixed it for $120 in 2 hours. Turned out four little metal slabs were worn, especially one important protruding point; now replaced, the lock works like new. Same keys, just a refurbished lock.
 

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My 99 has done this for a long time. I've learned to pull the key out slightly and then turn. Might work for you too. It's become a habit now and I don't even think about it
I have a 2000 and every now and then it catches and won't turn - I do what is listed above and it works. Good luck.
 

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2003 ignition key won't turn - bad cylinder

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but if your key goes into the cylinder and won't turn or you can't get it into the cylinder at all, you probable have a bad cylinder - this is not cheap nor easy to replace. Local dealers (3) wanted $568.00 plus tax, plus towing since you can't start the car to drive it there. No local locksmiths could replace the wafers in the cylinder because this is a high security sidewinder key system. Not exactly what I wanted to hear. Bit the bullet and ordered the cylinder (258+tx). I am very handy and mechanically inclined (I repair things for a living) but this was not a fun repair. Here are the steps: 1) disconnect the neg battery terminal and wrap it in a shop rag to prevent any accidentally grounding. 2) Remove airbag (2- t30 srews - one on each side, disconnect yellow push/pull connectors and place face up in passenger foot well. 3) Remove steering wheel=makle sure you remember its orientation so you can put back exactly as it was - 2 nipples on the back side of the bottom plate that has to engage the steering wheel correctly for it to fit back properly2 - wiggle side to side after removal of center nut. 4) Remove steering column covers - bottom has 3 phillips screws, top snaps off of bottom and remove rubber ring around cylinder, reinstall it before you reasemble the covers. Top cover is going to be in the way - you'll just have to move it the best you can. 5) Remove knee panels and remove the 2 screws on the top dashboard panel - the screws are accessible after you have moved the top column cover. 6) Remove lower panel by e-brake and pull up door jamb molding and side vent molding (1 screw then gently pull off to prevent breaking tabs holding plastic together). Couple of screws on the underside of bottom of dashboard. 7) remove 10mm nut on fuse box ( yes, the wire harness plug is on the back of the fuse box and you don't have enough room to get it out otherwise), release the box by prying 2 tabs (one on top, the other bottom - a picture is posted on another thread for adding somne entertainment stuff). 8) Follow the harness from the ignition cylinder assembly and disconnect connections as needed and release harness plugs from framing - the new one comes with the new assembly. 9) this can be done after #5 if you prefer: Take a SHARP center punch and an hammer and you will have to unsrew the 2 bolts hoilding the ignition assembly by tapping at an angle the old bolts counterclockwise to unscrwew them. The bolts are an 8mm with break-off heads. You can back them off using the center punch and not have to drill them out - didn't want all those shavings around all the connections - take your time and go easy. 10) Feed the new harness the same way the old one was and clamp it to the center steering column. 11) Reassemble everything making sure you reverse the steps and get all the conections right. 12) get the start code from the dealer so you can drive the car there WITHOUT TURNING IT OFF( even after getting to the dealer) after getting it started so they can reprogram the immobilizer so your new keys/ignition assembly will actually start the car - about $70-90.00. Time: 1- 3hrs OR: call a towtruck and just have the dealer fix it. Hope you enjoy you Labor Day.
 

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My key won't turn now. I have tried steering wheel jiggle (it is locked now), key jiggle, using the gray key, into/out of park. Obviously, I can't drive anywhere and I can not repair myself. Should I call the mobile locksmith, tow to my regular repairman (mostly american cars) or tow to the dealership?
 

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Ineedmyvan,
you can see from the previous posts, a variety of solutions at different costs. Your choice, if you haven't taken care of it yet, might depend on how much time you have. I needed to get it done quickly, and though I'm a do-it-yourself type, didn't want to tackle this one, partly due to the possible consequences if I made a mistake, but mostly due to the many steps. It seems some have had success with an independent locksmith, but I don't know what they charge if they come and then can't fix it. I had the dealer do mine for $525 last July. Hope it goes (went) well for you.
 

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I went the locksmith route for this problem in my 03 Odyssey, and it paid off. I followed the instructions on the youtube video that has been linked elsewhere on this forum ([video=youtube;zLx4zQJHW0o]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAREADz7BMA[/url]) for removing the ignition assembly, called a local locksmith, and with some tinkering he was able to access the key cylinder (this video from a locksmith proved it could be done: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLx4....the joys of living in a small town, I guess.
 

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ignition key

this has happened to me about a dozen times since 2002. It's always the steering wheel not "locked" need to pull it hard to the right, then turn key
 

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I had the same thing happen last week. Incidentally I had my van in for the recent recall regarding key coming out. I thought it strange that shortly after I would put
the key in and could not get it to turn. It would turn after wiggling it a bit but got progressively worse. I took it to the dealer saying they must have done something.
They checked it out and said they didn't do anything when they did the recall work. Bad news is after they fiddled with it for the life of me I could not get the key
to turn once I got it home and put it back in. But mission accomplished I disconnected air bag took steering wheel off and took off lock assembly and took cylinder
apart and saw the problem one wafer sticking up so pulled it out and removed spring. Then cleaned and lubricated and put back together and everything works great
No cost at all except for some time and a bit of learning as I went. Didn't have to reprogram anything. I watched the video of some guy taking it apart and thought
I can do that. Hopefully this helps someone. Saved close to 500 bucks.
 

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I just had an issue with my 03 EX-L. But my problem was the key did not want to go into the ignition. Once I had to fiddle with it a good 10 minutes. Once the key was in however. It turned fine. I don't know if this was a wafer issue or something different, but I took it to the dealer and they told me they had to replace the entire cylinder and give me 2 new keys at a cost of $457. Luckily, I only had to pay $250, Geico paid the rest, but now I have 2 different keys for ignition and door. The dealer told me the cylinder was too damaged to re-use the same key. I don't know if this was true or not, but after reading some posts, I wish i would have at least tried to fix this myself, but I did not want to make things worse.
 
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