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Discussion Starter #1
Well, my install of the ICON-TV widescreen monitor and DVD in my 2002 SS EX is complete. I figured that it would be wothwhile to document some info about the install so that others can benefit.

Background:
As I mentioned in my post on 1/11/02 (http://www.odyclub.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/000400.html) before I purchased the system, I found a review article in the December issue of "Car Sound & Performance" magazine about the ICON-TV 7" widescreen monitor that was quite favorable regarding the motorized flip-down version of the monitor.

System Description:
I ended up buying the non-motorized version of the monitor that uses the identical screen. The monitor includes a switcher for 2 video inputs and a built-in IR headphone transmitter (headphones can be purchased separately). The monitor model number is ICON-TV F70WIR. The DVD player is ICON-TV DVD-2E, and the FM Modulator is an Accele brand. I got the whole package for around around $725 or $750 including shipping (I can’t remember the exact final price).

Now that everything is installed, I’m truly amazed at the picture quality. It’s better than I expected. I find it to be a better picture than the Audiovox 7” widescreen and much better than the Audiovox, Pyle, and Fahrenheit 6.8” screens that I looked at locally, particularly in relation to off-axis viewing.

I find that the monitor is an almost perfect match for the grey Odyssey interior. My install came out very clean and looks like the van came with the unit in place. Also, the ICON-TV DVD-2E DVD player fits perfectly under the seat, unlike the first one that I tried which stuck out too far (see my 1/19/02 post in the topic link shown above).

Install Photos:
I took about 30 detailed pictures of the preparation and install and posted them on ofoto.com, but that site requires that I send you an email in order for you to be able to access the photos. Let me know your email address if you’d like to view them. Or, let me know of a better free site where I can post them for everybody to see. NOTE: THE LINKS ARE NOW INCLUDED TWO MESSAGES BELOW THIS POST.

Roof-Mounted board:
I decided that I wanted to firmly mount the monitor to the roof, rather than mount it just to the headliner using the included mounting plate. I pulled out the headliner and mounted a ½” thick piece of MDF (medium density fiberboard –NOT particleboard) that I purchased from Home Depot. The board was approximately 14”x14”. I made it large so that I could easily locate the monitor and screw it in wherever I wanted after the headliner was put back in. The board was mounted to the metal crossmembers that run across and along the roof. I used #12x5/8” sheet metal screws. I did need to counterbore the holes in the board to get enough screw protrusion (you may want to use slightly longer screws to eliminate the need to counterbore). I also drilled pilot holes in the metal roof crossmember to allow the screws to thread in easily. BE CAREFUL drilling the pilot holes since you can drill through the roof if you are careless. At first, I tried using pop-rivets to mount the board, but they did not work well at all. I also cut an oval hole approximately 2.5” by 4” in the corner of the board to allow the cables to pass through the board and then protrude through the headliner for the monitor connections. This allowed me to just cut a tiny hole (about 1" diameter)in the headliner. Before the final mounting of the board, I ran a bead of silicone caulking on the crossmembers anywhere they would contact the board. This was to prevent vibration if the screws ever loosened. Once the headliner was back in place, I used 1.25” coarse drywall screws to mount the monitor to the mounting board in my exact chosen position.

Headliner Removal:
In order to pull down the headliner, I suggest that you follow the instructions in the Helm manual. An alternative is to download the “Honda IVES installation instructions” from the Handa-accessories.com website since they document some of the less obvious steps. Although taking down the entire headliner is not a requirement if you don’t want to mount a board to the roof, I found that my monitor is mounted rock-solid. Although headliner removal and re-installation is not extremely challenging, it takes a while and is probably not a job for the mechanically inept. (Note: Goof-off adhesive remover takes off the black goop that gets on your fingers when removing the molding around the rear windows).

Cabling:
I ran the cabling from the monitor mounting board, across the roof, down the passenger side B-pillar, and under the rug to the area under the passenger seat. I did have to remove the tray under the front passenger seat. Be sure to keep the cabling away from the path of the passenger seatbelt when running the cable down the B-pillar. I used duct tape strips to hold the cabling in place until the interior panels were put back in place. While everything was apart, I also ran a spare 25-foot RCA cable from the back seat area, across the roof, and under the passenger seat. This will be used if I want to install a Playstation 2 in the future, since the monitor can handle 2 video inputs which can be switched with the monitor’s included remote control (i.e. DVD player and PS2 or VCR.)

I ran the remote eye for the DVD player to the area above the rear view mirror and in front of the center light console. This allows me to use the DVD remote control from either the front or back seats.

Wiring Tips:
Upon wiring everything up, I tied all of the main grounds to the factory grounding point near the passenger’s lower seatbelt mount. The constant and switched power was accessed from the passenger’s fuse panel (beside the passenger’s right foot). I used the Littlefuse Add-a-Circuit fuse taps because they didn’t require any cutting of factory wiring. Pep Boys sells them and they are ideal for this application. Be sure to get the Mini-ATO size (http://www.littlefuse.com/PDFs/Products/aftermarket-13.pdf)

The monitor housing has 2 overhead lights which are connected using a wiring harness that is separate from the main power/signal harness. I tapped into the wiring for the light above the passenger-side sliding door for the monitor light connections. I used Scotch-lock wiretaps (no wire cutting or stripping required).

I mounted the FM modulator behind the center dash console behind the small pop-off panel near the passenger’s left foot. There was plenty of room there and I just used a sheet metal screw to mount the modulator to the plastic central duct. It was also simple to pull out the radio to access the antenna connector. I mounted the FM modulator switch (included with the modulator) just forward of the removable panel near the passenger’s left foot. It is up high so that it is hidden, but easily accessed by feel.

DVD Player:
Mounting the DVD player under the passenger seat was much easier than I had expected. I did not want to remove the seat since I didn’t want to mess with the side airbag connections. I used the DVD mounting bracket that came with the DVD player and mounted the tabs upwards. The positioning of the bracket allowed me to just use zip-ties to hold the bracket tightly to the round bar that runs across the underside of the seat frame. This suspended the DVD player off of the rug everywhere except for the back and keeps the DVD player pretty level. I placed some low-density foam between the mounting bracket and seat bar and under the back lower edge of the DVD player to prevent any vibration transfer. I was also able to bend the outboard front plastic seat mounting trim panel so that most of the cables were hidden between the bent panel and the seat frame. This also allowed some storage space to be preserved beside the DVD player. I used right-angle RCA plug adapters (from Radio Shack) in order to allow the DVD player to mount as far rearward as possible

When I first turned on the system, I was confused because the picture was not filling the screen fully. I found that I needed to set the DVD player’s screen setting to “16:9 monitor” in the setup menu. This now plays widescreen movies full-screen and 4:3 format movies with vertical bars, but full height.

Purchasing Info:
I purchased the system through Myles (the owner) at http://www.mobileexcitement.com
Currently, the website doesn't have the monitor listed, but I phoned him at (919) 395-8592 and he was able to get the components for my package quickly and at a great price. One of the most important parts of this decision was that Myles spent a ton of time answering my numerous questions and definitely offers some of the best customer service I've ever experienced for any product. He immediately returns calls, called to leave me the tracking number of my shipments, and answered many many installation questions. I highly recommend his company.

Please feel free to contact me with questions. Also, I can forward the install pictures if you send your email address or recommend how I can post the pictures.

NOTE: THE LINKS ARE NOW INCLUDED TWO MESSAGES BELOW THIS POST.





[This message has been edited by DAL (edited 02-16-2002).]
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by DAL:
Install Photos:
I took about 30 detailed pictures of the preparation and install and posted them on ofoto.com, but that site requires that I send you an email in order for you to be able to access the photos. Let me know your email address if you’d like to view them. Or, let me know of a better free site where I can post them for everybody to see.
</font>
Congrats! Thanks for the detailed post and install notes!!

One quick comment, to share photos on Ofoto, you don't need to have people sign in. Just share your album to your own email address, and make sure to uncheck the box that says: "Checking this box requires your friends to sign in at Ofoto. If they sign in, they'll be able to order prints of your photos."

When the email arrives in your email box, post the URL provided and everyone can see the album.

------------------
-Shin John
'01 DEP EX, and I'm workin' on it! (slowly)


[This message has been edited by shinjohn (edited 02-16-2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here are the photos to go along with my post from last night.


Part 1 shows photos of the roof with the headliner removed and the addition of the mounting board.

Part 2 shows DVD mounting, FM modulator, and wiring.

Part 3 shows closeups of the monitor both before and after mounting, as well as the monitor and DVD remote controls

PART 1
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=69069283303&n=20844736

PART 2
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=77901383303&n=456984917

PART 3
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=69901383303&n=847751882


Please feel free to contact me with any questions or comments.
 

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if you can help, I can get a alpine 6.8 from ebay. or should I go with icon 7 inch. I can get non motorized for $400 and motorized for $500.00
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Shareef,

I have not seen the Alpine unit, but I heard that they are good - but pretty expensive. Some of the Alpines have a TV tuner built in. Note that the ICON-TV does not.

I was intent on a 16:9 screen, and the Alpine 6.8" is 4:3. I want the 16:9 because that format for DVD's are moving that way.

I'm perfectly pleased with the non-motorized version. To me the motorized flip was not worth the additional price since it's simple to reach up and position the monitor.

If you haven't yey, try to give the dealer that I mentioned in my post a call. He's top notch.
 

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Very Nice! Great pics and great job!
Makes me think...
I went to the site, Myles put that screen on the site for $475, though he has the wrong picture attached.

Now that my mind is mulling, some questions:

1) Do you know what his return policy is?

2) I notice the screen does not have left/right swivel. Based on this design and your comments then, am I to assume that from any seating position in the 2nd or 3rd row, the screen is completely visible and is still bright?

3) Did you not get any headphones to test how well the IR emitter works? I'm curious as to performance on that too.

4) Happen to know who Icon-TV gets their LCDs from?

TIA.


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-Shin John
'01 DEP EX, and I'm workin' on it! (slowly)
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by shareef:
if you can help, I can get a alpine 6.8 from ebay. or should I go with icon 7 inch. I can get non motorized for $400 and motorized for $500.00</font>
Shareef, are you talking about ebay vendors for $400 and $500 on the Icon-TV screen?

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-Shin John
'01 DEP EX, and I'm workin' on it! (slowly)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Shinjohn,

I think you are right. I just saw the posted photo on Myles' website, and I believe that he's showing the motorized version. The main difference is that the motorized version has 4 buttons and is a little bit longer behind the screen. Mine has 2 buttons. I'm going to contact him and let him use one of my photos if he's interested.

1) I looked at his website and he does have a posted return policy. I also experienced a return to him firsthand. After receiving the Accele DVD player that I had originally ordered, I test fit it under the seat and it protruded into the passenger foot area much too far. He allowed me to return it without any hassle at all and he did some research to find me a new unit that fit the dimensions that I gave him. That's how I ended up with the ICON-TV DVD-2E. It fits perfectly under the front seat.

2) The screen does not swivel. One of the main reasons why I got the ICON-TV monitor was because of the great off-axis viewing. I find this to be much better than many of the competitive monitors, including the Audiovox, Pyle, etc. The other monitors "grey out" at a much narrower off-axis angle.

With my monitor where I located it, I can lean my head against the side window from either outboard middle row seat without getting any significant change in the picture. The same goes for the third row seats.

3) I did not purchase headphones since my son is too young to wear them. I'm planning to install the same exact system in a friends '01 Odyssey in the near future, and he's planning to purchase the headphones. I'll let you know what I find.

4)Sorry, I don't know whose LCD's Icon uses.

[This message has been edited by DAL (edited 02-16-2002).]
 

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I conacted myles at mobileexitment.com he would sell a non motorized fro $475 and motorized for 550. but I went to a local dealer in charlotte he quoted 400 for non motorized and 500 for motorized, think he made a mistake but I got it in writing, will do it on tues. I have a 8 inch MA audio brand new from ebay, wll sell it off. also got JVC mobile vcr for $100
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by DAL:

Roof-Mounted board:
I decided that I wanted to firmly mount the monitor to the roof, rather than mount it just to the headliner using the included mounting plate.
[This message has been edited by DAL (edited 02-16-2002).]
</font>
Dal, congratulations on a very nice job. Just curious, is it possible to drill new holes in the mounting plate supplied with the housing and screw it directly into the steel cross-member. Or maybe someway to modify the plate to make that possible.
Not having seen the unit, I don't know if this is possible, but I am wondering if there is a way to avoid taking out the headliner. Everyone here maynot be as handy and courageous as you to pull out the headliner in their new van.

Again, great job with the install, very clear pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sgoyal,

You can definitely do the install without removing the headliner, but you may not have as much flexibility about where you mount the monitor.

I removed the headliner since I didn't know what the roof frame structure looked like and I didn't want to cut a big hole in the headliner. I wanted a small hole in case I ever chose to remove or replace the monitor in the future. Also I thought that it might keep the van quieter since the headliner acts as sound insulation. Finally, a larger mounting board would allow me to reposition the monitor if I ever chose to do so.

**This paragraph assumes that the position you choose for your monitor coincides with an area where you can access the roof framework.** If so, you can probably mount the existing plate to the roof framework if you cut a hole in the headliner just large enough to allow you to slip the plate into place and to see where to screw into the roof structure. Just mark 3 or 4 places where the plate rests on the peak of a piece of roof crossmember then take the plate down and drill thru-holes. Then, CAREFULLY drill pilot holes into the crossmember and mount the plate with very short sheet metal screws.

This steel plate approach may require that you buy longer monitor mounting screws than those that came with the kit, since I believe that the distance from the bottom of the headliner (closest to your head) to the roof structure is longer than the supplied screws. I believe that the screws are metric thread.

An alternative is to replace the supplied plate with the some type of lightweight board material (maybe thin plywood like the aircraft plywood sold in hobby stores?). It can be cut the same size as the plate or slightly larger. This will allow you to mount the monitor simply using drywall screws rather than struggling to align the supplied machine screws with the threaded holes on the steel plate. Be sure that the drywall screws aren't too close to the edge. or they could split the wood.

Note that it is possible to install the monitor without fixing the plate to the roof at all. The plate (supplied steel plate or wood) can just rest on the top of the headliner and sandwich the headliner between the plate and the monitor base. I've heard that many people use this method, but I was unsure of the mounting stability and I wanted to make sure that my monitor was soilidly mounted.
 

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I got the icon TV screen installed with a VCR. cost on $941.00 including taxes installation. Dal is right, the icon-tv seems to give a better picture, then audio vox, etc. I got the motorized version so it is neat, like you see in airplane. I wish I could have done the instal like Dal, but I can't even draw a straight line, so did not take the risk.
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by shareef:
I got the icon TV screen installed with a VCR. cost on $941.00 including taxes installation. Dal is right, the icon-tv seems to give a better picture, then audio vox, etc. I got the motorized version so it is neat, like you see in airplane. I wish I could have done the instal like Dal, but I can't even draw a straight line, so did not take the risk.</font>
Shareef, Congrats! Did you get headphones with yours? Any comments on headphone performance if you did? How well does the motorized tilt work? Just curious..

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-Shin John
'01 DEP EX, and I'm workin' on it! (slowly)
 

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did not get head phone. The motorized works smooth. got everthing with a 3 years parts/labor warranty.


COME ON GUYS NEED WE NEED MORE POSTING
 

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i mounted my screen without removing the headliner. the roof brace runs right between the "b" pillars, and i attatched the screen directly to the brace. the system has been in for several months and the mount is solid. do not go too far or you will go right through the roof skin.


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2000 lx fern grey with mods
 

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To those that installed the icon TV:
Did it obstruct the rear-view mirror when the screen is down?
If not how far back from the front-edge of the head-liner did you install.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
MBODYDRIVER,

Depending on my seating position, I can either just see the bottom edge of the screen (maybe the lower 1/2" of the screen)or I don't see it at all.

There are definitely not visibility problems for me or my wife.

I measured about 28.75" from the edge of the headliner to the video screen surface when it's in the open position.
 
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