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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Maybe someone experienced this and can give me some ideas?
1. Bought 2009 Odyssey EX-L with 198k
2. Installed New kit, with premium OEM Parts all from Japan. Didn't want to go cheap as it's a DIY.
Van ran perfect... BUT At 202k, the van stalls in the middle of rush hour, yes ONLY 4,000 miles on new kit! (Van ran perfect)
I Tow the van home and pull the Harmonic Balancer and line the crank up with the mark. then I pull both upper inspection covers. The cams should line up with their marks as well Correct?
NOPE, both cams jumped about 20 degrees!
(BUT, the belt is tight, AND the tensioner has lots of pressure against the pully as it should.)
I pulled the belt loose, reset the cams to the marks, and replaced the belt and Belt Tensioner.
Then I pulled all the plugs and rotated the crank 4 times to ensure the engine wasn't destroyed. (It never made any big sound, so I'm sure it's fine)
BUT.... Why did it jump when everything is tight? IT makes no sense to me.

I'm afraid to use the belt again (Mitsuboshi, and Honda Tensioner) as it might just jump again and this time destroy the engine!
 

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My guess is you bought counterfeit parts or aftermarket junk. Sadly, this is very common; especially if you bought the parts on eBay or Amazon. I know you said you did not.
I recommend you replace everything with the Aisin kit parts. $180. Hopefully your engine is not damaged.
 
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The premium made in Japan eBay kit again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe someone experienced this and can give me some ideas?
1. Bought 2009 Odyssey EX-L with 198k
2. Installed New kit, with premium OEM Parts all from Japan. Didn't want to go cheap as it's a DIY.
Van ran perfect... BUT At 202k, the van stalls in the middle of rush hour, yes ONLY 4,000 miles on new kit! (Van ran perfect)
I Tow the van home and pull the Harmonic Balancer and line the crank up with the mark. then I pull both upper inspection covers. The cams should line up with their marks as well Correct?
NOPE, both cams jumped about 20 degrees!
(BUT, the belt is tight, AND the tensioner has lots of pressure against the pully as it should.)
I pulled the belt loose, reset the cams to the marks, and replaced the belt and Belt Tensioner.
Then I pulled all the plugs and rotated the crank 4 times to ensure the engine wasn't destroyed. (It never made any big sound, so I'm sure it's fine)
BUT.... Why did it jump when everything is tight? IT makes no sense to me.

I'm afraid to use the belt again (Mitsuboshi, and Honda Tensioner) as it might just jump again and this time destroy the engine!
I know about the EBAY Crap. BUT... Remember, when I pulled the Covers/Balancer, the BELT is tight as is the Tensioner.
I mean, I can understand if I pulled the covers and the belt is NOW loose, and the Tensioner is Loose, but ALL is tight.
I mean it's like it's FACTORY tight.
YET both cams are 20 degrees off now.
I.E.
The Crank Shaft pointer is at 12:00 where it should be, but BOTH Cam pointers are at 2:00, NOT 12:00.

Again, if the belt was loose/stretched and/or the Belt Tensioner was loose, I could understand. But all is tight.
The Van ran for 4,000 miles after the install of the kit perfectly, then this.
 

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So I'm going to assume you did get eBay crap?

If you knew about the eBay crap, why did you get it?

You can lead a horse to the water but you can't make it drink.
 

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Not everybody knows about getting the Asin kit from Rock Auto, or even about the discount code when ordering. :unsure: I think I'll have a drink!
 

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Not everybody knows about getting the Asin kit from Rock Auto, or even about the discount code when ordering. :unsure: I think I'll have a drink!
Perhaps, but if you know about the eBay junk, you should know to get pretty much anything else. Even if it's not Aisin kit from RockAuto, pretty much anything is probably better than the eBay kits.
 

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I know about the EBAY Crap. BUT... Remember, when I pulled the Covers/Balancer, the BELT is tight as is the Tensioner.
I mean, I can understand if I pulled the covers and the belt is NOW loose, and the Tensioner is Loose, but ALL is tight.
I mean it's like it's FACTORY tight.
YET both cams are 20 degrees off now.
I.E.
The Crank Shaft pointer is at 12:00 where it should be, but BOTH Cam pointers are at 2:00, NOT 12:00.

Again, if the belt was loose/stretched and/or the Belt Tensioner was loose, I could understand. But all is tight.
The Van ran for 4,000 miles after the install of the kit perfectly, then this.
Timmy,

You could still have a bad or defective tensioner even though everything seems tight now.
This is the most likely explanation.
Something bad happened and there are only a couple things it could be.
 

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OK, let's say that what you have WAS indeed ok.

I don't understand the issues people are having with WHERE you got them at THIS point. It is already on your car and I am guessing that it is past "warranty" (If not, then I suppose you get your "refund" ). Even AISIN kit COULD be defective. (I have heard of few batch of AISIN kit included water pump having their Impaler jamb up).

Maybe you were unlucky or LUCKY (that it did not ruin your car).

I say at this point, CLEARLY, either tensioner OR the belt OR pully (maybe it jambs up and causes large tension/stress on the belt to cause teeth to skip? I don't know) is faulty. It does not have to be ALWAYS faulty, it just have to lose tension once and you are done.

SO, if it was me, considering that you have ample experience with putting timing belts your self from your description, I would just order AISIN kit from Rockauto with 5% coupon floating around for $180 ish + tax and just redo the work (including water pump - might as well since you are already in there) to make myself feel good and then seek "refund" from where ever you got your kit from. (If possible - if you got it from ebay and paid using paypal and it hasn't been more than 6 mo., then answer is easy, just contact your seller and request a refund due to defective part - I THINK it is 6 months for the claim through ebay/paypal).

If you got it from somewhere else and their refund/warranty is over, just count your blessings that defective part did not ruin your car.

That said, going FORWARD, vital and VERY common/generic part like belts on ebay may not be up to the quality standard of OEM. A LOT of parts coming out of China are sub par especially the ones that CLAIM to be of well known brand names since there are many that are NOT made for those brands but just want to pass it as it is. I would suggest that you do not get these kind of parts from ebay or Amazon for that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
OK, let's say that what you have WAS indeed ok.

I don't understand the issues people are having with WHERE you got them at THIS point. It is already on your car and I am guessing that it is past "warranty" (If not, then I suppose you get your "refund" ). Even AISIN kit COULD be defective. (I have heard of few batch of AISIN kit included water pump having their Impaler jamb up).

Maybe you were unlucky or LUCKY (that it did not ruin your car).

I say at this point, CLEARLY, either tensioner OR the belt OR pully (maybe it jambs up and causes large tension/stress on the belt to cause teeth to skip? I don't know) is faulty. It does not have to be ALWAYS faulty, it just have to lose tension once and you are done.

SO, if it was me, considering that you have ample experience with putting timing belts your self from your description, I would just order AISIN kit from Rockauto with 5% coupon floating around for $180 ish + tax and just redo the work (including water pump - might as well since you are already in there) to make myself feel good and then seek "refund" from where ever you got your kit from. (If possible - if you got it from ebay and paid using paypal and it hasn't been more than 6 mo., then answer is easy, just contact your seller and request a refund due to defective part - I THINK it is 6 months for the claim through ebay/paypal).

If you got it from somewhere else and their refund/warranty is over, just count your blessings that defective part did not ruin your car.

That said, going FORWARD, vital and VERY common/generic part like belts on ebay may not be up to the quality standard of OEM. A LOT of parts coming out of China are sub par especially the ones that CLAIM to be of well known brand names since there are many that are NOT made for those brands but just want to pass it as it is. I would suggest that you do not get these kind of parts from ebay or Amazon for that matter.
Thank YOU hpark21, for a well thought out answer. You are correct, At this point what does it matter WHERE I got the parts,
the FACT is, the BELT and Associated Tensioner are tight again!


I would just like some thoughtful answers like hpark21 so some poor guy doesn't run into this too.

OF Course I got the kit from Ebay and OBVIOUSLY I got screwed for $195. I tried to buy from vendors with 99% Positive and over 5,000 purchases. BUT, I must have been screwed,
I'll admit that a million times, PLEASE get over your righteousness and answer the question...
Explain why the belt and associated Tensioner would be TIGHT when pulling the covers.
That Belt SHOULD be LOOSE and/OR the TENSIONER should be loose...
It makes no sense.

I'm 65, and been SUCCESSFULLY rebuilding AT LEAST 20 engines since 16, and MANY Timing Belt kits...
I have many CLASSIC cars/Mustangs I've rebuilt. This is NOT My First Rodeo.
(FYI, Before retiring, I would tell my mechanical crew to NEVER buy stuff from China... EVERYTHING Must be MADE in USA or at least North America, and if not here, Taiwan, or SOMEWHERE Reputable, But NEVER China. I want quality, and will pay at LEAST Double for it!). SO Please... I'm well aware of the Chinese antic of thievery and scamming.

You righteous gods who want to berate me for being stupid, FINE, I know i must have been stupid...Please Tell me why are the belt and tensioner are tight again? Be LOGICAL.
 

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Well. Thank you for confirming it was an eBay kit. @hpark21 the question is NOT to get a refund. You normally can't get a refund. It is to ascertain if the parts are actually legit or fakes.

In this case, the parts are FAKE. OP needs to do the job AGAIN and this time with either dealer parts purchased at a legit dealer or the Aisin kit NOT purchased from Amazon or eBay.

As to why? Well, everyone's guess is as good as mine. The belt may be "weak" in a spot or two and OP here is lucky if it did not slip and damage their engine. It could be the tensioner too. Fake parts are fake parts and not reliable at all.
 

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Since both cams are in sync and the crank was the one that jumped a tooth or two, the tensioner couldn't keep tension over a certain pressure exerted by the torque of the crank. The tensioner compressed and allowed some teeth to slip. Once the pressure lowered, the tensioner sprang out again. Just a plausible guess.

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Well. Thank you for confirming it was an eBay kit. @hpark21 the question is NOT to get a refund. You normally can't get a refund. It is to ascertain if the parts are actually legit or fakes.
At this point, IMHO, it does not even matter WHETHER it was real or fake parts IMHO. Even if he DID get the AISIN part from Rockauto, I would STILL suggest that he re-do the timing belt with new part since SOMETHING is not working right here - belt/tensioner/idler pully, etc. SOMETHING is bad and it isn't apparent which part it may be.

Also, getting "refund" was NOT the main part of my post, if you read it further along, I emphasized refund because I would probably NOT accept an exchange from where ever he got his part from even if they offer it. (Unless of course, he got the part from legit source but he did not in THIS case).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Since both cams are in sync and the crank was the one that jumped a tooth or two, the tensioner couldn't keep tension over a certain pressure exerted by the torque of the crank. The tensioner compressed and allowed some teeth to slip. Once the pressure lowered, the tensioner sprang out again. Just a plausible guess.

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THANK YOU! This is what I'm thinking too...
ANYONE Buy Crap on EBAY needs to see my post and KNOW they WILL be tricked.
The point of the OP is to get to the LOGICAL bottom of what caused the van to run 4000 miles flawlessly THEN take a dump, THEN Go back to spec.
 
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