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Discussion Starter #1
The other evening I was driving and all of a sudden all the interior lights came on and the drivers rear door open light came on. It's a 17 LX. I turned the lights off but the door open red light is still on and the power door locks don't work because it sees a door open.
Looking around, I found people had trouble with the fuse box at the drivers foot well, so I pulled it out and opened it up. Nothing seen for an issue in there, no moisture present and no residue from previous moisture. It's dry in the van and I've not had a leak. The light randomly turned off on the drive back from work the next day, but turned on again before I was home.
The switch is not the issue either, it's been removed and unplugged as a test and still nothing.
Is there a manual around that has wiring and routing in it?
I feel like there's possibly a wire chafed.
 

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time to do some continuity tests on the cess articulated wire harness at the bottom.

another post on the subject with test diagram.

you can "search" for the circuit diagram in here as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I guess I should also ask the obvious question, does the door fully latch at the front and back, no issues opening or closing it?
Yes it does, no issues. By removing the switch, and unplugging it, the circuit doesn't get a ground and it doesn't matter if the door is opened or closed. Or is there a switch integral to the latch inside the door as well as the switch on the c pillar that I removed?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok looking at the diagrams, the sliding door switches go to the rear multiplex unit, at the rear fuse panel. I'll be pulling that open and metering the wire to ground (there must be a short, it needs 5 volts to the plug of the multiplexer and if the wire is grounded it would draw that down to show the door open)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
FIXED!!!
Ok it's working. I'll post what I found and pics and hopefully this helps others too.

So I found the rear fuse block and multiplexer assembly and remove it. As I'm taking it out I see lots of white fuzz, awesome!
The connectors weren't too corroded, but the pins were pretty dirty. I took the fuse box apart, cleaned all the pins and blew the water out of the cases, and put it back together. Corrosion scraped off for now but I'll do a more permanent repair later once I get the materials. At least things work again.
 

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nice find!

how the heck did water infiltrate that rear area? its sealed up and behind a panel.

unless car washes or pressure washing from the outside entered through the grommets?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I had the lifetime undercoating put on when I got the van, I wonder if a grommet wasn't put in properly.
 
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