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Ok so I only checked the “light” fuses, so you suggest looking at everyone of them? I don’t mind just wanna make sure. I will buy a switch but since after BYU g the clock bulb and no success I kinda feel like I don’t wanna make things worse, eventhough I apparently did since now the lights don’t work.
I just can’t think of anything else it should be especially when there really is only 2 fuses that have to do with the lights. By the way the map dome lights work when pushed but the other lights throughout don’t when we open the doors nor when I tried to manually turn them on...so frustrating and I feel defeated..seemed to have made things worse.

First off, don't be discouraged. We've all been there so many times. A couple weeks ago, I had two of those in the same day. It was very discouraging, but taking a break and coming back the next day with a clear head, I was able to successfully tackle them. I think many people on this forum would echo, that we've learned the most after failing first.

Secondly, I wasn't able to find a wiring schematic for the 2003, but I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that it's pretty similar to the 2007 schematic in the 4th post of this thread:

I'll work under that assumption, but if anyone has a schematic for the 2003 that says otherwise, please post!

When troubleshooting electrical problems, the two most basic questions are: 1) is there power coming in? and 2) is there a place for it to go (ground)?

The fuses would be the most likely to keep power from coming in; doesn't hurt to check them, but the fact that the front dome lights come on when you press them means that the fuses are good, and you have power coming in. You can corroborate this by pulling one of the bulbs in the rear and checking for 12V against a known-good ground.

So that means that something is keeping the current from having a place to go; i.e. the issue is on the ground side of the circuit (the bottom half of the referenced schematic). The driver/passenger dome lights have their own chassis ground (via a mounting screw that goes up into the steel ceiling). All the other lights are grounded through the dash switch. In the "ON" position, they are grounded directly. In the "DOOR" position, they are grounded through the "MICU" controller when the doors open.

Since they don't work in either the ON or DOOR positions, I would agree with egads that the dash switch may well be the culprit. Not sure how much that switch will cost, but if you want to confirm before purchasing, you'd need to start by unplugging the switch and checking for a solid ground at pin 5 in the harness connector (be very careful not to spread the sockets when probing).

Another (easier) test you can do is: 1) put the dash switch in the ON position, 2) press the driver dome light - is it on or off? 3) press the driver dome light again - is it on or off?
If it is on in steps 2 and 3, the ground at pin 5 is good. If it is off in either step 2 or 3, either the switch is bad or there is no ground at pin 5 (switch would be most likely).

Hope this helps point you in the right direction!


Logan
 

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First off, don't be discouraged. We've all been there so many times. A couple weeks ago, I had two of those in the same day. It was very discouraging, but taking a break and coming back the next day with a clear head, I was able to successfully tackle them. I think many people on this forum would echo, that we've learned the most after failing first.

Secondly, I wasn't able to find a wiring schematic for the 2003, but I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that it's pretty similar to the 2007 schematic in the 4th post of this thread:

I'll work under that assumption, but if anyone has a schematic for the 2003 that says otherwise, please post!

When troubleshooting electrical problems, the two most basic questions are: 1) is there power coming in? and 2) is there a place for it to go (ground)?

The fuses would be the most likely to keep power from coming in; doesn't hurt to check them, but the fact that the front dome lights come on when you press them means that the fuses are good, and you have power coming in. You can corroborate this by pulling one of the bulbs in the rear and checking for 12V against a known-good ground.

So that means that something is keeping the current from having a place to go; i.e. the issue is on the ground side of the circuit (the bottom half of the referenced schematic). The driver/passenger dome lights have their own chassis ground (via a mounting screw that goes up into the steel ceiling). All the other lights are grounded through the dash switch. In the "ON" position, they are grounded directly. In the "DOOR" position, they are grounded through the "MICU" controller when the doors open.

Since they don't work in either the ON or DOOR positions, I would agree with egads that the dash switch may well be the culprit. Not sure how much that switch will cost, but if you want to confirm before purchasing, you'd need to start by unplugging the switch and checking for a solid ground at pin 5 in the harness connector (be very careful not to spread the sockets when probing).

Another (easier) test you can do is: 1) put the dash switch in the ON position, 2) press the driver dome light - is it on or off? 3) press the driver dome light again - is it on or off?
If it is on in steps 2 and 3, the ground at pin 5 is good. If it is off in either step 2 or 3, either the switch is bad or there is no ground at pin 5 (switch would be most likely).

Hope this helps point you in the right direction!


Logan
Hey Logan thank you so much for just reading and replying! So my concern is that the interior lights worked before even though my switch had stopped working before so our way to “go with it” was wed just open the door to make the lights come on...
Now since I fixed the D indicator light now they don’t come on.
So that’s why (my non-electrical knowing self) wonders why would the switch cause them to
Go out now when before it didn’t work and they still worked.
I will buy a new switch today and install it BecUse I have missed it...that being said I feel light I’ve done something and not sure what..
I removed the dash again and all looked good.
I had someone tell me awhile back he wasn’t convinced or was the switch it could be the realy and I got scared and let well enough alone. Seeing how wefigured out a way around getting the lights inside to come on when needed. BUT a when the D stopped lighting up and I have 3 new teen daughter drivers they were nervous not seeing theD light up, so once I saw the youtube video on how to open and fix it I fiugured is fix it all except the switch since it cost $30. However after I did everything, D works good now(just moved bad bulb to D1 since dealer gave me wrong bulb), changed clock bulb (still not working) and dash interior light switch still doesn’t work but didn’t attempt to change.
Welcome to my issues..ughh
🤬🔫😢
Could let it all go except lights coming on but giving car to daughter going far away to college so need these little things fixed before for her safety.
155412
 

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After doing some more digging, it looks like there were some slight differences between the 2nd and 3rd gen wiring schematics.

Here's a schematic for your van:

Sounds like the 2nd gen has two rear lights - do those come on when you turn them on individually?

From what I was seeing elsewhere on this forum, it sounds like the relay is easy to get to even without removing the dash (mine is a 3rd gen, so I can't personally confirm). Typically, relays are easy to swap with a little tugging and are normally in the $7-$10 range. That could also be the culprit, but my gut says it's probably the switch.
 
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