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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 EX Odyssey. While the passenger side door works perfectly every time, the driver's side door almost every time fails to open or close on the first attempt. This video I found on youtube seems to have the exact same problem, only difference being on mine it takes sometimes 3 or more attempts to get it to work:

When you attempt to open or close it, it acts like it's hung up and beeps and goes back to fully open or fully closed.

I'd appreciate any help I can get.
 

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My first guess would be a sticking unlatching actuator. Remove door panel and it's a black box in the middle down low, held on with three screws with a lever attached with a small spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My first guess would be a sticking unlatching actuator. Remove door panel and it's a black box in the middle down low, held on with three screws with a lever attached with a small spring.
Do you mean this part?
151627


Also, would it be a good idea to replace the other side as well if I'm in here?
 

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That is the part. I've also been successful in taking it apart, cleaning it, re-lubricating it, and putting it back in.
 

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I have a 2006 EX Odyssey. While the passenger side door works perfectly every time, the driver's side door almost every time fails to open or close on the first attempt. This video I found on youtube seems to have the exact same problem, only difference being on mine it takes sometimes 3 or more attempts to get it to work:

When you attempt to open or close it, it acts like it's hung up and beeps and goes back to fully open or fully closed.

I'd appreciate any help I can get.
Check those bearings on the back of the door- very common problem, you can check them easily, open door fully, grab the rear of the door and jiggle it towards and away from the body. It should have very little play. Compare it to the other door to see if there if there is a difference. In the track you can reach up and feel for plastic wheels, they break then hang the door up- the part is only about $40 or so aftermarket, and not horrible to swap. If that is your issue there are some good utube vids that show how to swap them without removing the interior panels. I did both sides on an 06 a few weeks back, about 20 min a side.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Check those bearings on the back of the door- very common problem, you can check them easily, open door fully, grab the rear of the door and jiggle it towards and away from the body. It should have very little play. Compare it to the other door to see if there if there is a difference. In the track you can reach up and feel for plastic wheels, they break then hang the door up- the part is only about $40 or so aftermarket, and not horrible to swap. If that is your issue there are some good utube vids that show how to swap them without removing the interior panels. I did both sides on an 06 a few weeks back, about 20 min a side.
Yeah I know what you're talking about, and I did try that before. It seems quite solid, so I don't think that's the issue.
 

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Check those bearings on the back of the door- very common problem, you can check them easily, open door fully, grab the rear of the door and jiggle it towards and away from the body. It should have very little play. Compare it to the other door to see if there if there is a difference. In the track you can reach up and feel for plastic wheels, they break then hang the door up- the part is only about $40 or so aftermarket, and not horrible to swap. If that is your issue there are some good utube vids that show how to swap them without removing the interior panels. I did both sides on an 06 a few weeks back, about 20 min a side.
I agree. This should be the first thing you check.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I decided to try the test again but shake a little harder. it can be kind of hard to differentiate between the door being pushed along the track a little bit vs the door actually shaking like you said it might, but I think there indeed is too much play in there.

At this point I may end up having to replace both parts, as the door does pop open sometimes when it does open, which I believe is a symptom of a bad release actuator.
 

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You don't always get play in the rear hinge. I had one door do the exact same thing, yet had no play in the rear hinge. What it turned out to be is the rollers on the hinge seized up, and whenever you tried to open the door, it would start then stop because it thinks that something is blocking it because of too much resistance in opening or closing. This is a safety measure designed into the doors so injuries can be prevented. I found this out when I greased the track and the door worked fine for about a month then started acting up again till I greased it again. I finally replace the hinge and cleaned up the grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You don't always get play in the rear hinge. I had one door do the exact same thing, yet had no play in the rear hinge. What it turned out to be is the rollers on the hinge seized up, and whenever you tried to open the door, it would start then stop because it thinks that something is blocking it because of too much resistance in opening or closing. This is a safety measure designed into the doors so injuries can be prevented. I found this out when I greased the track and the door worked fine for about a month then started acting up again till I greased it again. I finally replace the hinge and cleaned up the grease.
What kind of grease did you use?
 

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Which is why I prefer "LX", manual sliding doors.
Thats one way to look at it... but I do like walking up to the van with an armload of whatever and pushing the button with my sole free finger as i approach... picking up passengers and opening and closing the door for them without leaving the drivers seat... and the doors do operate manually if you switch them off.
I remember debating with mom over buying a low trim model vs. fully loaded since when used there isnt a huge cost difference. (I ended up with EX-L nav-res) and her attitude was that fancy options were just something to break.
While there is truth to that if the nav system or dvd player breaks I just wouldnt use them so no difference than without them. I was more concerned with things of more necessity not available on LX. Like power moonroof, privacy glass, and solar rejecting windshield and front side glass.
I would however have liked a non vcm engine but didnt know about that until after I bought it.
The NAV system I never use but the backup camera is just priceless I dont know how I got by without one... people still freak out when I parallel park and stop 1" from their bumper.
 

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What kind of grease did you use?
I cant speak for him but Ive always used white lithium spray grease on all the moving parts of the door...getting both rollers of the middle hinge can be tough... when its handy I put red wheel bearing grease on the bottom steel track.
On a side note if you want your power window regulators to last a long time spray silicone into the rubber window tracks front and rear 2-4 times a year, letting it drip down to wet it all the way down.
 

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I have to agree that it’s usually the middle roller unit. It has two small rollers on it, and the bearings on those wear over time and then the door starts catching. To test, switch your doors to manual (I,e., turn off the switch just above the sliding door control buttons on the drivers side dash) and then manually pull open and close the sliding door a few times. It will make a very rough sound, like a grinding noise from that middle roller area. It may even be really difficult to open manually at all, or it may catch, just as it does when in automatic mode. If the passenger side is not yet worn, it won’t sound as loud when you open that door manually. As suggested here I would watch YouTube vids on how to replace the roller. There are two ways to do it. One involves releasing tension on the cable but you have to pull out the interior trim. The other way is just by manipulating the rollers off on the outside of the van, without releasing the tension on the cable. I’ve done it that way four times now and it worked fine. It is much quicker then pulling the trim and manipulating the cable tension. When you install the new rollers, add some silicon grease to the top of the small rollers to help protect them from rusting. There is no need to apply any grease to the “rolling surface” of the small rollers, I.e., the surface that rolls against the metal guide. That would defeat the purpose of the “rollers”. They do have small bearings in them and they do actually roll against the metal guide. If you were to add grease to their rolling surface, the rollers will tend to slide along the guide. You don’t want them doing that, you want them to roll along the guide, but again, do add silicon grease on top of the rollers to prevent rust formation and increase their longevity. You will also see that the metal guide will be dirty/greasy. You should clean that up by spraying with wd40 or similar and wiping clean with a rag, prior to installing the new rollers. The wd40 will keep the metal guide clean and since you’re wiping it off with a clean rag, this will still allow enough friction for the rollers to roll along the guide (rather than slide along the guide). I would change rollers on both doors at the same time -the passenger side one will not be far behind. I would not replace those expensive actuators for the problem that you describe. There are a few different actuators in those doors and the problem that you describe doesn’t sound like an actuator issue. Save your money for now is my advice to you. Good luck.
 

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uess would be a sticking unlatching actuator. Remove door panel and it's a black box in the middle down low, held on with three screws with a lever
The most common cause is the upper door slide. Eric has a u-tube video that has a test for this.
Before you take the inside panel apart, watch this video.
-=Carey
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey guys, I hate to revive an old thread like this, but I'm finally getting around to doing this job.

I did notice there was definitely play in the center roller, so I ordered a replacement for that and will be putting that in when I get it.

I also happened to see this video
, and the symptom mentioned of the door attempting to close then making a clunking noise and returning back to the open position does occur on my door. The door also does pop when it finally manages to open. This leads me to believe that while the roller is failing, it's not at a point where I see any noticeable effects. Instead, I think John Clark may be correct in that the actuator needs to be lubricated.

For now, since the roller needs to be replaced anyway, I'm going to go ahead and do that as soon as the part arrives (not having Prime shipping because of the virus is annoying but understandable :/), and if that works, then great. If not, I'll report back and see what I can do about that actuator.

Y'all can all be at peace knowing that both your suggested fixes are technically "right".
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Decided to go ahead with the actuator lubrication first. Took the door panel apart (the back clips were not fun), took out the actuator, and lubricated with some WD-40 White Lithium Grease. Put it back in, and the door worked like brand new! When I had the door in manual mode to rip off the panel however, I did notice quite a bit of resistance when trying to move the door, so I think that confirms my suspicions that the center roller is going bad, but it's not at a point where I see any major symptoms. Going to be replacing that in a day or two, but for now, I have a working sliding door, and I can't complain.
 

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Good to hear i did mine a few months ago (driver side) it was sticking once in a while.... working like new.
154875
154876
 

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