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Discussion Starter #1
It's a 2001 EX with 191,000 K
I have done the following work already
  • Replaced Spark Plugs, NGKs
  • Replaced drive belts, serpentine and PS
  • Cleaned EGR ports
  • Bench tested EGR Valve, opens and closes
  • Replaced Primary Oxygen Sensor
  • Adjusted Valve Clearence
  • Replaced IAC unit
  • Cleaned Throttle Body and Intake Manifold
The intermittent stalling and rough idle happens on hot days (90 Degrees +) when the van has already been running and it sits for a period of time between 10 minutes and an hour. I will start fine the first time and idle well for a few seconds then the RPMs start to fall. Turning of the AC will help delay a stall sometimes. Giving the van too much gas will cause a stall. Sometimes you can put it in drive or reverse and ease on the gas it will feel as if it is missing. If you build up enough speed it be clear up and idle fine at stops after a minute or two.
The code I typically get is an EVAP code and it doesn't coincide with the idle roughness or stalling. Sometimes I get a general misfire code if you allow it to stall out. But if you ease into it there is no misfire code.
I have tried the drop test. (unplugging each coil, one at a time, to see if the idle gets worse or stays the same) All coils seem to make the idle worse. However, sometimes the problem has gone away when I am unplugging the coils (heat being released because the hood is up?)
That is it basically. Right now I am going to get the battery tested (desperate) and am going to see if I can get it to do it again. I am considering getting a OBD II reader to see some flash frame data. Other than those I am stumped and don't want to take it to a mechanic to throw some parts at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I forgot to mention that I also did a compression test before I did the valve adjustment and all cylinders were between 195 and 205 PSI.
Also the battery and alternator tested as good by the autoparts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Gas Mileage

Just for additional information and a little bump the Ody averages around 14 MPG in town and around 20 MPG on the highway.
 

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I'd look at fuel pressure next; pump, pressure regulator, fuel filter. I don't know anything about these on an Odyssey. They may be separate parts or all in one unit. From what I've read, though, it seems like Honda has given us a port on the fuel rail to attach a pressure gauge.

From the symptom and low mileage, you may be running rich. Seems like it's not such a stretch to think that if you have low fuel pressure, the fuel may not atomize well from the injector and the ECU may try to retard timing or increase injector pulse duration (if these cars can even do that) to make up for the poor air/fuel mixing. So, in my mind, I could theoretically make a connection between low fuel pressure and using more fuel than normal.

One more thing to throw into the fuel conversation is the evaporative capture system. Again, I don't know what this looks like on an Odyssey, but if tubes and vents related to this are plugged, it may affect fuel delivery. Just curious...does the condition change if the gas cap is removed?

Not that it's directly related, but..... My brother had an old International pickup truck once. The fuel cap was on the cab just behind the driver door jam. The cap was on a neck that stuck out from the body by about an inch. Whenever his truck started to run rough, he could get out, open the cap, and blow into the filler neck with his breath as hard as he could.... and you know what?..... It would start running better! I know it is a long way from a '70's carbureted farm beater and a modern FI piece of Japanese precision, but fundamentals still apply. Good gasoline, mixed with air in the right proportion, properly compressed, and lit with strong spark at the right time will burn quite well! Heaven help you if it turns out to be a sensor/electronics problem.

--VARam1500...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks VARam1500. I bought a fuel pressure gauge but couldn't connect it because it didn't include the fittings for connecting to the Ody. I guess I will order those. The tough part is that it is intermittent so that is something that I can't test when I am away from my garage. I guess I can trouble shoot the whole EVAP code. It is in the service manual. I was putting this off because this stalling seemed to have a higher importance than the EVAP code. Plus in general on the Ody the EVAP system is a maze of hoses, valves, and sensors that suck to trouble shoot.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have decided to look at the MAP sensor because when I disconnected it the engine behave in a similar manner as these episodes. It looks like these don't go out much on these vans based on some searching but I also couldn't find any symptoms like mine in other posts.
My thought on the MAP sensor is to try disconnecting it during the next episode.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have not had another episode with the stalling and rough idle after I switched the battery from the Odyssey with the one in my wife's 2004 MDX. If this holds and I don't get any more episodes I will have to conclude that the battery was unable to produce the spark needed at low RPMs when it was hot. This conclusion makes me wonder why the alternator isn't doing its job well. Is unhooking the battery at idle a legitimate way of testing the alternator?
 

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I think the best way of testing would be to run the car (with battery) and test voltage across the battery terminals with a multimeter. You can pick one up at Radio Shack... or if you have a Harbor Freight in your area, theirs are less than $5.
It shouldn't drop much below 12V, even with the AC and radio and lights and everything on.

Or, even cheaper, AutoZone will check the alternator for free.

I don't think it's a good idea to run the car without a battery... I think that the battery is used as a sort of a capacitor to keep the voltage from spiking and dipping. Without smoothing out the spikes and dips, you might damage some electrical equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did have the battery and alternator checked at Advanced Auto Parts and they said they were fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
MikeT125,
The problem has gone away with the changing of the battery. It has been two tank fulls of gas and no episodes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I looked at a thread that suggested that so I looked at it and the o-ring looked good.
 

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I'm having the same issue with an 02' at 100K miles...hummm...I've changed plugs, EGR, cleaned EGR passages, seafoam, and new OEM front O2 sensor...same issue...when the car is hot and coming to a stop it idles rough and sometimes stalls.

I'll have to find the MAP and see if the o-ring could be the issue. The battery is fairly new (2 years or less). Mechanic buddy offered to check the fuel pump too so I'll do that after a simple o-ring replacement (if it's simple).

-Roy
 

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I would recommend looking for vacuum leaks around the throttle body. I had the same issue with rough idle. I found a loose hose on the throttle body. I pushed the hose on tight, re-adjusted the hose clamp, and my rough idle issue was resolved. Make sure both ends of all vacuum hoses are tight!

Again, thanks to odyclub.com for pointing me in the right direction. I absolutely love this website! :)
 

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I would recommend looking for vacuum leaks around the throttle body. I had the same issue with rough idle. I found a loose hose on the throttle body. I pushed the hose on tight, re-adjusted the hose clamp, and my rough idle issue was resolved. Make sure both ends of all vacuum hoses are tight!

Again, thanks to odyclub.com for pointing me in the right direction. I absolutely love this website! :)
 

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Maybe reseting the ecu is what made the problem go away, for now.. that happens when you disconnect the battery. Do you have stuck or slugded pcv valve? Was there a piece of carbon stuck in the egr pintle? These can come and go.. did you clean the tube going to the exhaust from the egr? I hose these down with a can of flammable type brake clean or carb clean or else little pieces can come loose and can an intermittent sticking of the egr... NOt the battery i can tell you that. Watch the data stream if and when this happens again with an obd2 scan tool and see which values go out of range... not throwing a code make me think it has something to do with the egr...
 
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