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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When the gear is in Park or Neutral position, the engine idles smoothly. But as soon as I put the gear into any of Drive Position, rpm moves up and down constantly(feels like rpm is moving up and down between 600 ~ 900).

FYI. This is new tranny changed at around 80,000 and it's 130,000 now.
 

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skyblue said:
When the gear is in Park or Neutral position, the engine idles smoothly. But as soon as I put the gear into any of Drive Position, rpm moves up and down constantly(feels like rpm is moving up and down between 600 ~ 900).

FYI. This is new tranny changed at around 80,000 and it's 130,000 now.
It could be the solenoid going out. But unlikely.

Check your transmission fluid for color. If its still red and doesn't smell burnt it's not your transmission. If its black and burnt, it could be.

More likely scenario is the Idle air control valve is sticking or the EGR port is clogged.
 

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Add the power steering switch to the list of possibilities.
 

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Regret I bought Ody

Man, since I signed up on this site and found only many problems threads on the Ody, especially the dang tranny & EGR valve and I'm really regreted buying this van. I'm a big fan of Honda but instead of going with Sienna, I picked the Ody because it is Honda:rolleyes: And looks like no one knows if the problem tranny or EGR valve exist only to particular vin#, seem like these problems apply to all years 1999-2004 models. This is just turn me off about the Ody but it is a new looking van. I didn't do research first because it is a Honda, dang.
 

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Re: Regret I bought Ody

ody00ex said:
Man, since I signed up on this site and found only many problems threads on the Ody, especially the dang tranny & EGR valve and I'm really regreted buying this van. I'm a big fan of Honda but instead of going with Sienna, I picked the Ody because it is Honda:rolleyes: And looks like no one knows if the problem tranny or EGR valve exist only to particular vin#, seem like these problems apply to all years 1999-2004 models. This is just turn me off about the Ody but it is a new looking van. I didn't do research first because it is a Honda, dang.
Most of the time the EGR doesn't even have problems until after 70-80k and usually its just a port clogging up. For the do it yourself person it only takes about 2-3 hours tops to fix it every 50k and doesn't exactly require any special tools. The transmission problem is primarily related to heat as the odyssey has a rather inadequate transmission cooling system. If you take preventitive measures and install a large transmission cooler and either a remote filter or inline magnefine filter that you replace every 10k or so for the most part you won't have problems. Among vehicles I've purchased the odyssey isn't all that bad to repair.

The other repair that seems to happen around 160-180k is coils start going out. This is normal for most cars.

As for toyota, they make a good vehicle too. But, I wouldn't touch the sienna before 2008 due to use of a timing belt and large issues with oil sludge which comes from the engine producing more heat than the oil can handle which slowly turns to sludge and clogging up the engine. If you use a good synthetic you won't have these problems. But regular toyota reccomended dino oil weights do. If you think replacing transmissions is bad wait till you replace an engine.
 

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Re: Re: Regret I bought Ody

gregersonke said:
Most of the time the EGR doesn't even have problems until after 70-80k and usually its just a port clogging up. For the do it yourself person it only takes about 2-3 hours tops to fix it every 50k and doesn't exactly require any special tools. The transmission problem is primarily related to heat as the odyssey has a rather inadequate transmission cooling system. If you take preventitive measures and install a large transmission cooler and either a remote filter or inline magnefine filter that you replace every 10k or so for the most part you won't have problems. Among vehicles I've purchased the odyssey isn't all that bad to repair.

The other repair that seems to happen around 160-180k is coils start going out. This is normal for most cars.

As for toyota, they make a good vehicle too. But, I wouldn't touch the sienna before 2008 due to use of a timing belt and large issues with oil sludge which comes from the engine producing more heat than the oil can handle which slowly turns to sludge and clogging up the engine. If you use a good synthetic you won't have these problems. But regular toyota reccomended dino oil weights do. If you think replacing transmissions is bad wait till you replace an engine.
Thanks for the infor. but I made a mistake bought my 2000 Ody with 144K miles with no history maintenance record, just went with carfax with accident free and no others history from a non-Honda dealership. The van drive nice shift smooth thru out the gears and everything works thru out the van, except not sure how long the heated seats work.

ps. I went back to the Honda dealer to back track the service history but they only had some minor service records up to sudden years but hope that this van went thru all recall issues and tranny or EGR issue.
 

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Re: Re: Re: Regret I bought Ody

ody00ex said:
Thanks for the infor. but I made a mistake bought my 2000 Ody with 144K miles with no history maintenance record, just went with carfax with accident free and no others history from a non-Honda dealership. The van drive nice shift smooth thru out the gears and everything works thru out the van, except not sure how long the heated seats work.

ps. I went back to the Honda dealer to back track the service history but they only had some minor service records up to sudden years but hope that this van went thru all recall issues and tranny or EGR issue.
EGR port cloggs up over time. Just kind of an evil that we all deal with it. Most who have over 200k have done it at least two or three times. It doesn't cost anything to do it since you can leave the Throttle body connected to the intake manifold while you clear out the junk in the port on the intake manifold.

Transmission issues will crop up really fast if you have a leadfoot and like pushing the engine past 3k. The fluid will go from clean to smelling burnt on a race start from 0-80 just a couple of times. Preventatives are in the aftermarket. Most will use 3quarts of amsoil synthetic ATF fluid every 20k and use a transmission cooler combined with an inline filter. Change transmission filter along with 3 quarts of fluid every 15-20k and it should last you a while.

Recalls don't give you a transmission cooler or the inline filter which prevents most of the issues.

Now that we've scared you, the VAN otherwise is actually a very good vehicle and doesn't have most of the rattles and slow fall aparts that other vehicles and vans do with high mileage. Its a lot more fun to drive compared to vans of similar years. Keeping the rpms at or below 2k while accelerating will net you the best gas mileage.
 

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Regret I bought Ody

gregersonke said:
EGR port cloggs up over time. Just kind of an evil that we all deal with it. Most who have over 200k have done it at least two or three times. It doesn't cost anything to do it since you can leave the Throttle body connected to the intake manifold while you clear out the junk in the port on the intake manifold.

Transmission issues will crop up really fast if you have a leadfoot and like pushing the engine past 3k. The fluid will go from clean to smelling burnt on a race start from 0-80 just a couple of times. Preventatives are in the aftermarket. Most will use 3quarts of amsoil synthetic ATF fluid every 20k and use a transmission cooler combined with an inline filter. Change transmission filter along with 3 quarts of fluid every 15-20k and it should last you a while.

Recalls don't give you a transmission cooler or the inline filter which prevents most of the issues.

Now that we've scared you, the VAN otherwise is actually a very good vehicle and doesn't have most of the rattles and slow fall aparts that other vehicles and vans do with high mileage. Its a lot more fun to drive compared to vans of similar years. Keeping the rpms at or below 2k while accelerating will net you the best gas mileage.
I haven't search but hopefully all the works above are DIY to save on labor costs. I still believe all the issues on the Ody are crazy and they should not be on the Honda brand as currently I also have 08 CRV with 60K mile, used to have NSX with 69K miles, and Toyota Previa with 400K+ miles with no problem on the original tranny or engine beside regular maintenance services.

I still can not stand all these issues and plan to sell the van the same price as I bought it hopefully, with my fingers crosed
 

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I wouldn't touch the sienna before 2008 due to use of a timing belt
Odyssey still has a timing belt. Why should one timing belt engine be avoided and another not?
large issues with oil sludge which comes from the engine producing more heat than the oil can handle which slowly turns to sludge and clogging up the engine
Toyota engine sludge issues are a less serious problem than Honda transmission problems. Sienna engine problems according to Consumer Reports are less common than Honda transmission problems. Sienna engine problems did not show a big jump in the years of Sienna which made sludge which were before 2004.
Whereas some years Honda Odyssey and some other Honda Acuras get the black spot for reliability from Consumer Reports which is the worst rating.

I hate sludge. With Toyota, you can do something which is highly likely to prevent sludge. Use synthetic oil and change often. Buy 2004 or later models.

Using different motor oil is less of an issue than using different ATF.

With motor oil, you can use any brand of the recommended viscosity synthetic or dino or close to it and not cause a new problem.
With ATF, friction modifier differences are alleged to cause harsh shifting. So changing ATF brand, synthetic or not supposedly can cause problems.
With some year Honda AT problems, changing ATF often does not prevent problems. And Z1 is inadequate. Temps inside the Honda AT have been shown to be above flash point for non syn ATF. Z1 is non synthetic. DW1 is not yet recommended for before 2011 Hondas and is not the same thickness as Z1. So the owner should choose a non Honda synthetic ATF for their Odyssey to make it last longer. So much for manufacturer's recommendation.
If you think replacing transmissions is bad wait till you replace an engine.
Rebuilding a transmission can be more difficult than engine rebuilding. More tiny parts that might not go together in some obvious way. Check balls to get lost. Many of the shade tree mechanics out there have rebuilt engines. But few have rebuilt AT's. Or do not rebuild, buy used engine from the salvage yard.
Salvage engines that run are not so hard to find unless all of that year's engines break. But with a transmission that goes bad often like Honda Odyssey, junkyard units are a gamble. They might be nearly broken too.

I own a Honda, not Toyota. But did not get a reliable durable vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks guys.

The idle air control valve is fairly new. I had it changed last summer due to the engine won't stay idle.

Does anyone know how much a shop charges for cleaning the EGR port?

Also, it's been 30,000 miles since tranny oil had been changed; how much does a stealership charges for tranny flush?
(I didn't know up until now, an Odyssey tranny has so much problem)
 

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Not sure about what mechanics charge but there are quite a few you tube videos on cleaning the egr ports of the Honda Odyssey.

Let me know if you need help finding them.
 

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skyblue said:
Thanks guys.

The idle air control valve is fairly new. I had it changed last summer due to the engine won't stay idle.

Does anyone know how much a shop charges for cleaning the EGR port?

Also, it's been 30,000 miles since tranny oil had been changed; how much does a stealership charges for tranny flush?
(I didn't know up until now, an Odyssey tranny has so much problem)
I just bought 2000 Ody with 144K mile then I found out all the issues this kind of van has, I am freak out right now. I could of search here first but believe in Honda brand before I buy one. I have many cars, even Germany one with high miles have no problem with original tranny, just keeping up with the fresh fluid.

ps. I will try to return it but sure the non-Honda stealership won't take it back:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
theodydude said:
Not sure about what mechanics charge but there are quite a few you tube videos on cleaning the egr ports of the Honda Odyssey.

Let me know if you need help finding them.
Thank you for your suggestion.
I watched the video, and as a novice DIYer, it's bit too much for me to do it. Too many screws and parts are involved. :(

I only do, oil, air filter change, spark plugs, batteries, etc
those easy stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ody00ex said:
I just bought 2000 Ody with 144K mile then I found out all the issues this kind of van has, I am freak out right now. I could of search here first but believe in Honda brand before I buy one. I have many cars, even Germany one with high miles have no problem with original tranny, just keeping up with the fresh fluid.

ps. I will try to return it but sure the non-Honda stealership won't take it back:mad:
When my Odyssey's tranny got broken at around 80,000, I thought I was the unlucky one to have a bad tranny. Fortunately the tranny was covered under the warranty and thought the new tranny will last long. Based on the reading from this forum, I've realized that might not be the case.

I am positive that they will not take the car back. I think you might have a better shot at exchanging it to a different vehicle.

Anyway, good luck.
 

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baseball said:
Odyssey still has a timing belt. Why should one timing belt engine be avoided and another not?
Because in 08 you get a timing chain.
Toyota engine sludge issues are a less serious problem than Honda transmission problems. Sienna engine problems according to Consumer Reports are less common than Honda transmission problems. Sienna engine problems did not show a big jump in the years of Sienna which made sludge which were before 2004.
Whereas some years Honda Odyssey and some other Honda Acuras get the black spot for reliability from Consumer Reports which is the worst rating.
I hate sludge. With Toyota, you can do something which is highly likely to prevent sludge. Use synthetic oil and change often. Buy 2004 or later models.

Using different motor oil is less of an issue than using different ATF.

With motor oil, you can use any brand of the recommended viscosity synthetic or dino or close to it and not cause a new problem.
With ATF, friction modifier differences are alleged to cause harsh shifting. So changing ATF brand, synthetic or not supposedly can cause problems.
With some year Honda AT problems, changing ATF often does not prevent problems. And Z1 is inadequate. Temps inside the Honda AT have been shown to be above flash point for non syn ATF. Z1 is non synthetic. DW1 is not yet recommended for before 2011 Hondas and is not the same thickness as Z1. So the owner should choose a non Honda synthetic ATF for their Odyssey to make it last longer. So much for manufacturer's recommendation.
Amsoil ATF, a cooler, and a filter setup has been thus far good for most all owners who install them.

Rebuilding a transmission can be more difficult than engine rebuilding. More tiny parts that might not go together in some obvious way. Check balls to get lost. Many of the shade tree mechanics out there have rebuilt engines. But few have rebuilt AT's. Or do not rebuild, buy used engine from the salvage yard.
Salvage engines that run are not so hard to find unless all of that year's engines break. But with a transmission that goes bad often like Honda Odyssey, junkyard units are a gamble. They might be nearly broken too.
I've never rebuilt an engine or transmission. I've taken apart an engine or pieces of it. I can't see why one would rebuild rather than find a good used one at a junkyard. Low mileage good compression engines aren't hard to find. Though finding a transmission in a junkyard is probably more of a gamble. But you can find rebuilt honda transmissions for a decent price and as long as you upgrade your cooling and filter system you should be good.

I own a Honda, not Toyota. But did not get a reliable durable vehicle.
I suppose I can sympathise with you. I've cleared the EGR, installed a cooler and filter. Still have a tq converter whine and the money to replace transmission sitting in a stock account, but 99 percent of the other rattles cars usually have at this age I don't.

I especially love the handling and gas mileage of the odyssey. It allows me to save a lot of gas when I never have to press the brake going into a corner hwy driving gets me 25mpg. Its handling is rather neutral at the grip limit which is kind of nice. In the rain and the snow it tends towards a slight but easily controllable oversteer during throttle lift. The angry jealous look on the faces of BMW drivers as I pass them up in the sweeping corners is kind of nice.

I drive about 25-30k a year and rarely speed until I hit the corners anyways.
 

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Because in 08 you get a timing chain.
2005-11 Odyssey has a timing belt. 2008 and 2011 are similar. See picture below.
longer.
Amsoil ATF, a cooler, and a filter setup has been thus far good for most all owners who install them.
Honda should have thought to do that. And not sell the not durable transmission that they ended up selling. Should have built a better transmission, invented a better transmission fluid and a better standard transmission cooler. My dealer specifically said not to add a filter or a cooler years before the trans failed.
 

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baseball said:
2005-11 Odyssey has a timing belt. 2008 and 2011 are similar. See picture below.
longer. Honda should have thought to do that.
Sienna 08 or better has timing chain, and more power, gets the same mileage as the smaller less powerful timing belt motor of 07 and older.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
William Wiles said:
Add the power steering switch to the list of possibilities.
I've clean the EGR port, changed the EGR Valve and IAC value. None fix the problem.

How do I check the power steering switch?

What else could there be?

FYI. It seems that the car always bucks at idle when the engine is cold and the gear is in Drive position. When the engine gets hot, idle become a bit stable. And the engine idles smoothly when the gear is in Park, Neutral, Reverse. In other words, the engine bucks only when the gear is in Drive position.

Help please:(
 

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skyblue said:
How do I check the power steering switch?

Help please:(
It is the wires to the switch that break. Follow the rubber hose out of the power steering pump over the top and back of the engine. There is a small switch "tee'd" in at the back near the firewall.
 
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