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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the passenger sliding door hasn't opened in a good 8-10 months. Pull the handle on the outside and it feels like it's attached to nothing, same with the inside handle. Hit the open door button on the remote or the dash you here the motor engage and it try to open but the door never moves, you then hear 3 beeps. Finally got around to taking the door panel off, I've been putting it off because I knew it would be a complete #$%(# and it was! One small crack in the panel to show for my efforts : |

So what I found is that the lock on the sliding door isn't working, when I pull up on the lock it's not disengaging. There's a plastic tab (circled in red) that's suppose slide down to move/disengage the mechanism circled in yellow. However that plastic tab isn't staying in place and is trying to pop out instead of slide. Linked at the bottom is a video to see this happening. I can manually disengage the lock by moving the thing (circled in yellow) to the left. Once I did this the door opened! From searching online this whole assembly seems to be called a "remote control latch/lock assembly", I hope that's correct. Anyway, do I need to replace this whole thing or can I get parts to fix it. I've seen pictures online of that plastic part that that's broken being metal, I guess Honda learned their lesson at some point!

160769


LINK TO VIDEO: sliding_door.mov


Side issue, when the door closes the back latch isn't engaging pulling the door in. Dash shows the door is still open. From reading online I would assume the back latch assembly needs to be replaced but I just wanted to get confirmation on this.

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Since you have the panel off, I broke mine also, you have access to the rear latch. They are known failures either with switches or the latch motor sticking. You could remove it and clean it to try before replacing. There are many posts on here about how to do it.

For the lock, the online parts stores like Bernardi have the diagram of parts. I tried looking at it but my phone screen was too small. Looks like you might be able to get parts individually maybe even fashion something.
 

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Seems like your best bet would be to replace the entire part. You might be able to pull one from a junk yard vehicle and try to fix the broken piece.

Regarding your rear latch issue, it is very common for the rear latch to fail - usually an internal micro-switch issue. A new latch is about $200.
 

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It is pretty much guaranteed to break the panel if you have to remove it with the door closed unfortunately. It just wasn't designed to be removed like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I was able to find a used part locally for cheap so I figured I would try that before buying it new one for $250. Door seams to be doing the same things though, when it closes I can hear the rear latch assembly motor kick in but the latch never engages and pulls the door in. Is there any other test I can do before ordering a new one? I realize they're both used parts but they're doing the exact same thing. I'm thinking about breaking the thing apart and lubing everything up, could a bad sensor in the assembly cause the latch to not grab the door and pull it in?
 

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So I was able to find a used part locally for cheap so I figured I would try that before buying it new one for $250. Door seams to be doing the same things though, when it closes I can hear the rear latch assembly motor kick in but the latch never engages and pulls the door in. Is there any other test I can do before ordering a new one? I realize they're both used parts but they're doing the exact same thing. I'm thinking about breaking the thing apart and lubing everything up, could a bad sensor in the assembly cause the latch to not grab the door and pull it in?
What part did you replace with a junk yard part?
What you describe here seems to be your “ side issue” from your original post. Is your main issue with the broken link now fixed?
For your side issue with the rear latch it is very common for that rear latch to fail. A new latch costs about $200. Issue is with the internal micro switches. It is also common for the middle door roller to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What part did you replace with a junk yard part?
What you describe here seems to be your “ side issue” from your original post. Is your main issue with the broken link now fixed?
For your side issue with the rear latch it is very common for that rear latch to fail. A new latch costs about $200. Issue is with the internal micro switches. It is also common for the middle door roller to fail.
I replaced both parts. I believe the issue with the manual lock is fixed. It's still not as smooth as I would like but it's not a new part so that's not surprising.

What I was talking about above is the rear latch still isn't grabbing the door and pulling it in after swapping that part out too. I can here the rear latch motor kick in but it never grabs the door.

Sorry if I'm not explaining things well, I'm not even sure if I'm calling all these parts by the correct names.
 

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I wouldn't be surprised if the used rear latch is also having issues...it's a common problem.
 
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I replaced both parts. I believe the issue with the manual lock is fixed. It's still not as smooth as I would like but it's not a new part so that's not surprising.

What I was talking about above is the rear latch still isn't grabbing the door and pulling it in after swapping that part out too. I can here the rear latch motor kick in but it never grabs the door.

Sorry if I'm not explaining things well, I'm not even sure if I'm calling all these parts by the correct names.
You may want to consider buying a new Honda rear latch module. You can buy genuine Honda parts at a discount at online sites such as Majestic Honda or BernardiParts.com.
I am not 100% sure a new latch will fix your issue but I think it is likely.
Some people have had success thoroughly cleaning and lubricating the latch mechanism and replaced the micro switches. It involves soldering in the new switch leads. The switches are available to buy from Digi Key. About $7 each. There’s is one NO switch and one NC switch.

it might be worth trying this since you now have an extra latch - the original one you removed.
Let me know if you want the switch part numbers.
 

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I replaced both parts. I believe the issue with the manual lock is fixed. It's still not as smooth as I would like but it's not a new part so that's not surprising.

What I was talking about above is the rear latch still isn't grabbing the door and pulling it in after swapping that part out too. I can here the rear latch motor kick in but it never grabs the door.

Sorry if I'm not explaining things well, I'm not even sure if I'm calling all these parts by the correct names.
That part often have issues around this age of the van that it is rare one of the parts that if you get one, it SHOULD be a brand new one.

That said, there is a chance that one of the 2 you have could be fixed by some lube and possibly swapping out the switches.

First, on the part that is out, open the part by removing the 3 small screws holding the plastic cover (you do NOT have to remove the tapes as it gets very messy, you can wiggle off and on the plastic with those foam tapes intact). try to work the latch and make sure all the "moving" parts appear to move freely, if not, give it a good soak with WD40, followed by lithium grease in pivot parts. Test 2 switches that you can see (2 light blue ones) for continuity. One in the MIDDLE with large gear/pawl parts is what is called NC switch where if it is not pressed in, it should be continuous and when pressed in, it should disengage. One near the latching part is NO switch where when not pressed in, it should be off (not connected) and will connect when pressed in. You can check continuity by identifying the wire color and tracing it to the plug.

Also, does your door work via switch, just not latch? Or it does not work at all? If it does not work at all, then there is chance that the sliding door has been "disabled" by the system. Try to reset the doors and see if it starts working by turn off the "power door" switch, close the doors, pull #7 fuse from driver's side fuse box and then put it back in, turn the power door switch back on and try to close the door using the open/close buttons and see if it will start working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the information and help!

Since I did have a spare I went ahead and took apart the latch assembly and cleaned it up with some lithium grease. It defiantly helped but the door still wasn't latching.

I think I found my issue though, I noticed with all the stuff I was doing, opening and closing the door, locking and unlocking, pulling the handles (inside and out) nothing on the lock actuator was moving. This seemed weird to me since it has 4 cables running into it from other components in the door. So I took that part out and it seems to be seized up, after taking off the black piece I can here something inside of it that sounds broken when shaking it. I'm assuming there's a bunch of plastic gears in it. I ordered a replacement and it should be here tomorrow.

With the lock actuator completely disconnected I tried shutting the door again and it latched! Obviously the cable that runs from the lock actuator to the rear latch assembly was preventing it from latching, I guess because the part was seized up the cable couldn't move.

Also, the manual lock is sliding freely now with that cable disconnected from the lock actuator, this was the original issue I posted about. So it seems in the end nothing might have been broken besides the lock actuator which was causing the other parts to malfunction. I wish I would have picked up on this sooner before getting those other parts but I'm not familiar with all this stuff since this is my first time working on sliding doors. However, it still beats taking it somewhere else to get fixed and paying a fortune! I'll report back after getting the new lock actuator in but I think that's going to fix it.

160846
 

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Thanks for all the information and help!

Since I did have a spare I went ahead and took apart the latch assembly and cleaned it up with some lithium grease. It defiantly helped but the door still wasn't latching.

I think I found my issue though, I noticed with all the stuff I was doing, opening and closing the door, locking and unlocking, pulling the handles (inside and out) nothing on the lock actuator was moving. This seemed weird to me since it has 4 cables running into it from other components in the door. So I took that part out and it seems to be seized up, after taking off the black piece I can here something inside of it that sounds broken when shaking it. I'm assuming there's a bunch of plastic gears in it. I ordered a replacement and it should be here tomorrow.

With the lock actuator completely disconnected I tried shutting the door again and it latched! Obviously the cable that runs from the lock actuator to the rear latch assembly was preventing it from latching, I guess because the part was seized up the cable couldn't move.

Also, the manual lock is sliding freely now with that cable disconnected from the lock actuator, this was the original issue I posted about. So it seems in the end nothing might have been broken besides the lock actuator which was causing the other parts to malfunction. I wish I would have picked up on this sooner before getting those other parts but I'm not familiar with all this stuff since this is my first time working on sliding doors. However, it still beats taking it somewhere else to get fixed and paying a fortune! I'll report back after getting the new lock actuator in but I think that's going to fix it.

View attachment 160846
For reference, the part that you circled is the power release actuator, not the lock actuator. The lock actuator just controls the lock tab at the top of the door panel.

This part does frequently have issues. Generally the problem is the clutch mechanism inside jams up and needs to be lubricated, but it can also break sometimes, which seems to be what happened here. I'd check the part you got to make sure it's the release actuator and not the lock actuator. The part number for the passenger side (the side is important, the alignment is slightly different) release actuator is:
72623-SHJ-A21


There is no aftermarket part for this.
 
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