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I was attempting to rotate my tires yesterday and was not comfortable with how to jack and support the van. I used a floor jack to jack the front end of the car by the front tow hook on the cross member and placed a jack stand on the passenger side at the recommend location. As I started to lower the jack the van seemed to slid rearward and the stand was not in the position that I placed it at the jacking point. Also, I did not have a lot of confidence in the jacking spot on the side of the car to support the weight without bending. I tend to be over cautious but I am use to placing the jack stand on something a bit more solid under my Trailblazer.

Since I was trying to rotate my tires I need each side of the van up at any one time. I have searched the forums for a good description of how to properly secure the van on jack stands. Found lots of discussions on the pros and cons to using a puck on the jack. I would say the jacking part is relatively simple. It is how to properly place the van on jack stands that I am trying to resolve.
 

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Please do the swap on a near-level surface. There will be nothing but jackstands to keep your van from going downhill!


Jack the front as high as the jack will allow, using the center hook.

Put TWO stands in, one on each side of the front, at the usual jacking points, as high as they will allow.

Lower van slowly onto those two stands. Eventually the rear will start to rise after touchdown on the stands.

You MIGHT want to remove the front wheels at this point, because the next step might make it impossible to remove them.

Use the jack at the center hook at the back. Raise until the rear wheels are off the ground.

Rotate tires at will, since all four wheels are off the ground. If they are not, lower the rear a bit and remove the fronts as previously described, then raise the rear and put the fronts on the rear, then lower the rear again, and install the fronts.

Its generally a good idea not to load the wheels to any significant degree before completely tightening them.
 

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paulvan, It is good that you are cautious. But, if you want to be really safe, use the spare in this process and just jack up one corner at a time. It is a little more work, but you might need to check the pressure in the spare anyway. So, if you are considering this option, just put the spare on the right front (RF), move RF tire to RR, then RR to LF, then LF to LR, then LR to RF, then put the spare back, and you are done. Also, if you do not have an impact wrench, you can speed up the process by getting a socket attachment for your cordless drill to quickly remove and replace the lug nuts. Of course, a wrench, not the drill, must be used to tighten the lug nuts to the proper setting. Tom
 

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SuperDad said:
...Rotate tires at will, since all four wheels are off the ground....
4 jack stands is a good number to have in your garage. That's the way I do a tire rotation, and it sure speeds things up.

OF
 

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I have directional tires and only rotate them from front to back. My floor jack will actually lift the front and back tire off the ground at the same time and I put the jack stand under and just swap the wheels. It is pretty quick.
 

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I love that Honda has front and rear center locations for the floor jack. (I could never figure out where to put the floor jack on our Jetta.)

Is a 3-ton jack and jack-stands sufficient for the Odyssey?

Even with four stands, I still like a backup. What do others put under the van when up on the stands? Blocks of wood? Cinder blocks? I'm thinking of making some 1' cubes out of scrap 2x4s.

cheers,
Jamieson

new owner 2006 Ody EX 35kmiles
 

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If you do this a lot, buy the best jack you can reasonably afford. A 3 1/2 tone is standard. I prefer steel to aluminum. I also like the new low-profile jacks with the speed jack feature. Believe it or not, Costco sometimes has a very nice and dependable jack for $99. Forget the brand, but it's red and it's steel.

Once you get the van up on stands, 1, 2, or 4, give it a good shake. If it's rock solid, you are good to go. That said, I keep the jack under the vehicle with the pad just below something solid. Also, when I am doing something that involves having the wheels off, I slide them under, too.

Concrete blocks are a big no-no. Wood's not a bad idea if you have something like railroad tie pieces.

Always put your stands under something that's solid. Don't put it under a suspension arm as those will pivot and will change the face angle between itself and the stand pad.

When you have one or more stands under the van and you are jacking up the other side or end, keep on eye on the base(s) of the stands and make sure they are staying solid on the floor. The stands can sometimes teeter on their bases.

Always make sure the jack is free to move as you jack the vehicle. If not, it will pull the vehicle towards the jack or the vehicle will slide off the pad.

Make sure doors are shut when jacking. Bodies tend to flex when jacking.

I've worked on many, many cars/trucks/vans using floor jacks and jackstands. I only had one drop off a stand and that was due to a very poor choice in jackstand location. Never get under a vehicle with only a jack and never get under a vehicle that you wouldn't push on while on stands.
 

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costco low profile jack

I have one of those red costco low profile jacks, its 3.5 tons and very HD, and decent is very controllable, lifts high and has a rubber pad. Only issue I have with it is its a HEAVY SOB when I have to take it to race track or whatever, and some of the bolts have gotten loose. But love the long padded handle and double fast pumps. Its also very low and fits under nearly any car.

Since a 3 ton is 6000 lbs, and the entire van weighs north of 4000 lbs, a 3 ton should lift 1/2 of it easily. The 3.5 ton is overkill but that's not a bad thing....:p
 

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I've never used four jackstands to hold up a car(or van), for a few reasons...

I've never had four jackstands.

I've worried that unless my surface is completely flat(actually it is), there would be some racking of the body.

I've never had a need to have access to both ends of the underside of a car at the same time.

I'm not at all worried about using the jack as the third support point for the 20 mins it takes to swap wheels. I >definitely< wouldn't leave it overnight, in case the jack leaks down(N.B. That's essentially what caused the DC10 to drop an engine back in the 1980's.)
 

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I just did a front to back rotation on both my Honda's and both were lifted per side the same way. A 2x4 on the jack, and placed on the frame rail a bit front of center. On the Accord it looks like this...





The 2x4 distributes the load on the "sheet metal" frame and prevents the jack from leaving an impression on the frame and scraping off the paint/undercoating.
 
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