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funfinder4

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok... I've lost my "connections" to AllData Pro.... so I need some help from others here that might have removal diagrams of the intake so I can gain access to replace the knock sensor wire that a mouse has chewed through (P0325).

Also, if anyone has done this already and might know the gasket part numbers I'm going to need to put it all back together that would be great too.;)
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Here's my follow up in case someone else has this same problem down the road. The part numbers I list below will work with '99-'01 Ody's ('02+ Odys have different intake and thus a different gasket).

Knock sensor sub-wire harness 30531-P8F-A00 $3.67
Upper Intake gasket 17105-P8A-A01 $14.72


Took 1 hour to remove the intake manifold. I decided to keep the throttle body attached to it which ended up saving me some time and money in new gaskets for the throttle body. Took another hour to fish the old knock sensor wire harness out which was chewed in several places. I almost removed the fuel rail and injectors so I could have more room to get to the knock sensor plug, but found some long skinny needle nose pliers and some luck. Spent the last hour cleaning the intake manifold and throttle body with solvent and reinstalling everything. It was understandably dirty with almost 130,000 miles on the van.
 
Looks like a chipmunk got to my wire. I pulled back the p/s pump to find the connector and a bail of dead grass. Tugged a bit on the wire with some needle nose plyers and ended up with the end looking at me as you can see in one of my pictures. The second one is tougher to see but I circled the sensor looking through the intake. I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove the intake to get at it, I thought I saw another post saying they left it on. I see no way of doing this without removing the intake especially since it looks like I broke the sensor trying to get the connector off. I was being gentle too, I thought it came off as it should but it doesn't look like the top of a new one now. Time to order parts I guess.
 

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Picture number 2. Ugh, how do you post more than one picture and not have to wait 60 seconds?

Any thoughts on where to buy the sensor? Also the p/n of the thing? I found an aftermarket one ebay for $40. Looks like the Honda one is around $100 but I have yet to find the correct part number.

I just found 30530-P8F-A01 on E-bay, I hope that is the number because it's only $25. Can anyone verify?
 

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OdyinNH,

The part number you have off ebay is correct. If you want to check part numbers you can try the following web site:

http://myhondapartsstore.com

The knock sensor on this web site is List price at: $35.37, their price is $27.16

They list the part number with diagrams. It took a couple of tries to get the Knock sensor part number but I did find it and you have the right number.

The Sub Wire for the Knock Sensor (wire) is part number: 30531-P8F-A00 list is $3.67, their price is $2.82.

Looks like a good site for diagrams and factory part numbers.

Lots of luck, Russ
 
I dug around on there and Majestic motors, guess I didn't find the right section. Do you remember where it was? The setup is a bit ambiguous. BTW, I think Majestic motors has cheaper prices.
 
OdyinNH,

As an FYI, I buy my parts from Bernardi on line parts. They typically have what I need or can get it very quickly, plus they have about the best prices on line, if it is not the best price it is cents within the best price. I thought they did not have the part numbers listed in their diagrams but I checked and they do. Anyway you will find the knock sensor under "Cylinder Block Oil Pan" it is item #8 in the diagram. The wire harness is in the "Engine Wire Harness" group, item #1. Lots of luck, Russ.
 
The parts came in yesterday, just 2 days. Pretty fast but it is the next state over. Here is a picture of the 3 parts, I didn't realize the gasket would be 3 pieces of thin metal. Also, the wire is not completely covered, my old one was chewed right at the connector. I think I'll add more covering or maybe just tape and a zip tie. Here's my questions, do I need to put any kind of liquid gasket material on the metal and what about the threads on the sensor?

I will post more pics to this thread as the parts are replaced.

thanks!
 

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replacement completed

I got the new knock sensor and wire installed and the code is cleared. It took about an hour. I was able to get the sensor out with the intake unbolted and lifted back a bit as you can see from the picture. I only removed two connectors to lift it. I also lifted the front fuel rail out of the way, be careful it is under pressure. Seeing I broke the connector off my old sensor I was able to use a 15/16 (or 24mm) stubby socket to remove it. I did have to fish it out with a wire. As you can see from the picture, I taped the new connector to an extension to get it threaded, it's at a slight angle. The red circle shows where it lives. I then snugged it up with a deep well socket and swivel. I connected the new wire to the sensor first and then fished the other end under everything using a copper wire. The sensor does not need sealant because it isn't sealing anything. Also the old intake gasket had no sealant on it so I didn't use any. All in all, except for fishing things in/out, it was pretty painless.
 

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Fuel leak after replacing sensor

I reinstalled the fuel rail but did not change the o-rings- have fuel leak do I need to replace o-rings. any suggestions on procedure for reinstalling fuel rail? should I lubricate o-rings prior to pressing fuel rail down??
thx
 
I lubed mine with o-ring lube that I use for my pool, no issues. I found the lube was needed for ease of installation.

You may have dirt in there or may have one that is damaged. If you only want to go in there once more then order new o-rings, they are cheap enough.
 
MIL light came on along with the TCS light on my 2004 Odyssey. OBD Reader confirmed the P0325 DTC. Lucky for me the only damage was the severed wire and not a bad knock sensor. Just want to share a few pointers on this thread.

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Here are the parts I purchased for the repair. The two different types of O-rings were to replace those on the three injectors attached to the fuel rail that I removed; there is an upper and lower O-ring on each injector. I just re-used the metal intake gaskets.

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I went in through the upper intake and had to remove one fuel rail before there was enough room to reach the connector on the knock sensor. The knock sensor is down there (green circle); as you can see there's not much room with the fuel rail in place. The red circle shows the area where the opposite end of the KS service wire connects to the engine wiring.

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There's the knock sensor connector with the single wire chewed to a stub.

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It helps to know where the latch mechanism is to release the connectors on each end of the service wire ... circled in red below. The connector at the opposite end of the service wire is secured to a connector stay right behind the power steering pump. To release it from the stay first disconnect its mating connector, then press in the latch mechanism, which is at the lower part of the connector and towards the front of the van, and then push the connector down off the stay.

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A set of long needle nose pliers really helped to reach in and down between the lower intake runner to un-latch the connector. I used the one with the curved tips to unlatch the connector at the opposite end of the service wire secured to the connector stay. A set of these pliers can be purchased at Harbor Freight for pretty cheap.

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Re: Fuel leak after replacing sensor

handmeawrench said:
I reinstalled the fuel rail but did not change the o-rings- have fuel leak do I need to replace o-rings. any suggestions on procedure for reinstalling fuel rail? should I lubricate o-rings prior to pressing fuel rail down??
thx
I wanted to avoid a fuel leak so I replaced the upper and lower O-rings on each of the injectors in the fuel rail that was removed. The upper and lower injector O-rings are different and they can be purchased from your Honda parts department.

I applied clean motor oil on the O-rings to help seal them. I also applied motor oil on each injector seal ring before installing them in the injector bores.
 
I just want to say thanks to the great members of this site. My '00 Odyssey's engine light has been on since I bought it with what I quickly discovered was an EGR issue. I finally got around to getting that fixed but had noticed in the interim that the traction light would also come on sometimes. Well, after fixing the EGR issue I was a bit disappointed to see both lights popping on together and indicating a knock sensor problem. A quick Google later and I'd found this site and read several of the threads here on this topic. This afternoon I popped the plastic cover off of the engine and sure enough, using a bright light I could see the knock sensor with a tiny bit of chewed wire sticking out of it.

I love it when a little bit of Internet camaraderie makes it easy to solve a problem. I've just put in an order with Majestic Honda for the replacement parts and I should be able to get the Odyssey running right, and without an engine light on, for the first time in nearly 3 years. And just in time to pass emissions!

So thanks to all of you who've posted on this subject, especially to the members who've posted part numbers and photos! You guys rock!
 
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