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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've had a problem with the door not being sucked in completely at the end of the door closure sequence. So i decided to tackle the project myself as i got tired of just reading about "how to" fixes. Some fixes work like the #13 fuse and sometimes they don't indicating the secondary motor the sucks in the door has most likely failed. You do NOT need to remove the door to do this. All you need to do is remove the seat and you can adequately access all the components.

You first need to start off by taking off these 6 bolts:





You will then need to peel back the white plastic to expose the components:



Once it's peeled back the assembly can be accessed and removed:



The new and the old:



Before reinstalling the latch you will need to reconnect the cables. Once the cables are reconnected then you can slide the latch back in and put the screws back in reverse order.

And that's all there is to it. It took me 35 minutes to do only because i was being extra careful. I'm sure next time i could do it in half the time. I'm the least mechanically inclined person in the world and if i can do it anyone can.

Here are the correct part numbers for each side:

Drivers side: 72650-S0X-A53
Passengers side:72610-S0X-A53

The part cost me $128.05 plus local tax.:cool:

I've omitted the removal of the door panel as it's already been posted on here. You can find those instructions HERE
 
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Oh my god! Thank you! A picture is worth a thousand words, as your post illustrates. I don't need this now, but I know I will. In the meantime I'm sure to refer many folks to your post. Great work:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
egads said:
Oh my god! Thank you! A picture is worth a thousand words, as your post illustrates. I don't need this now, but I know I will. In the meantime I'm sure to refer many folks to your post. Great work:)
Your welcome. After countless searches to find pics of this type of install i always found nothing of use to try and tackle the install myself. After hearing how much the dealer was charging for this service i decided to do it myself. Total install price $128.05 plus tax. YAY!:rockon:
 

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I had a similiar problem and the dealer sold me a new motor and a latch.
They claimed it was the motor which is an upgrade to the OEM and the new style require a new latch and contact points.

$450 installed.
 

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Good Job raven69david !!!!

Is that the motor (that suck in) just below the green plastic?
I was wondering if the motor was available separately.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
gomst1 said:
Good Job raven69david !!!!

Is that the motor (that suck in) just below the green plastic?
I was wondering if the motor was available separately.
The motor is NOT available separately. You have to buy the entire assembly from Honda. The motor unit contains 2 motors encased together (the transport motor and the motor that sucks in the door), therefore you cannot buy them separately. The motors are located on the back of the unit in a silver cylindrical metal housing. They are not visible in the pics.
 

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Thanks for the great pics if this happens on my Ody I might give it a shot now! $128 compared to $450 is 300%, granted my dealer charges $72 per hour for labor. That is a 4 or 5 hour labor charge for something that took you 35 minutes.:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
chris 02 said:
Thanks for the great pics if this happens on my Ody I might give it a shot now! $128 compared to $450 is 300%, granted my dealer charges $72 per hour for labor. That is a 4 or 5 hour labor charge for something that took you 35 minutes.:confused:
E X A C T L Y

This was my first attempt at doing this. If it took me 35 minutes, then it should take a professional a little less time than that. To charge 5 or 6 hours of labor for that job is insane...even if that does include both sides. I can see 2 hours tops for both sides...beyond that it is plain highway robbery.:mad:
 

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David,

Great Job, I'm glad that you tackled the problem yourself and have great pictures to boot.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Giewont said:
David,

Great Job, I'm glad that you tackled the problem yourself and have great pictures to boot.

Chris
Thanks Chris, but i have to say thanks to you too for supplying me with the right part number for the job and confirming that it was the right part that i needed to replace.
 

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This should go in the tech section for all to reference in the future.:joy:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
chris 02 said:
This should go in the tech section for all to reference in the future.:joy:
That's a good idea. Anyone wanna second the motion of moving it to tech?
 

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I second that
 

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Mega THANKS for your detailed instructions on how to replace the closer motor which I did this past weekend on my '00. The dealer wanted over $7 beaners for this job that ultimately cost me slightly over $100 and about 45 minutes of careful work. The toughest part was removing the trim on the door but if you follow your explicit instructions it wouldn't be a problem for anyone.
What a great website and thanks again for your helpful solution!!!!
 

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Can the motors be removed from the assembly? What I'm getting at is can you remove the good transport motor from your old assembly and use it in case you'd ever have a transport motor go out?
 

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The motor appears able to be removed from the latch assembly by removing 3 small screws although I'm not sure how it is attached to the internal gearing assembly. Once I find a little time I'll rip into it and advise. Also, because it is powered by an electrical system I don't know what originally failed and don't know how to test for this assembly failure.........mechanical or electrical? The external gears which are metal appear to be ok and in working order.
 

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I ripped into the latch assembly and found, what I think, is my failure. Behind a round tin disc (extending from the motor assembly) there is a metal worm gear that drives a PLASTIC toothed gear. What a goofy design!!!!!!! Can you believe that the plastic gear has worn out and naturally has to be replced but one must purchase the entire assembly. You can't buy just the plastic gear. I might add that our kids are gone and as such the sliders are not used very much on my '00. As an accountant with a high mechanical aptitude the design of this part is an abortion and the engineering is terrible.......one thing very negative for my otherwise great vehicle.
 

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Maybe not such a bad design. Without lube, a metal worm gear against a metal toothed gear might wear out more quickly than against a plastic toothed gear. Just my 2¢.
 

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Given the high I'm on having replaced the latch assembly and fixing the problem, I won't debate the reason for the premature plastic ring failure but I can't imagine there doesn't lurk an engineering design problem. Fully lubed, this design failed and "that's my story and I'm sticken' to it"
 
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