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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone tried this....considering swapping old halogen headlights for these... Have a 2005 Odyssey Touring.



My Fogs are LED now...



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I tried a set in my Mercury Milan with bi-projectors. They didn't put out any more light than a set of silver star halogens. It is very possible that light output was actually worse. I would just go with hids if you want more light output.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
LED lights put out less light? WOW. Any ideas for a brighter and whiter light? Thought LED's would replace HID'S....

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LED lights put out less light? WOW. Any ideas for a brighter and whiter light? Thought LED's would replace HID'S....
I think aftermarket manufacturers are still grappling with ways to make an LED light source as productive as a halogen bulb when used in a halogen reflector and housing.

The best option for brighter and whiter light with very little added work are Philips 9012 bulbs (replace the stock 9006 low beam) and 9011 bulbs (replace the stock 9005 high beam). The HIR bulbs do require very slight modification to one of the three base tabs, but other than that no other mods needed, and the increased lumen output while keeping everything else stock is a big benefit.

See this LINK to the thread started by chuckerants for more details and photos. The prices on these bulbs have gone down markedly over the past two years. Candlepower and Amazon are good sources. We had them on our Accord for 4 years before one of the low beam filaments finally expired, but that could be in part due to the truly terrible roads where I live. The high beam HIR bulbs are still soldiering on in the Accord into their 5th year of service.

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First thing I did was install a Kensun 5000k HID kit to replace the projector low beams in our 2016 EX-L. A huge improvement. I'm still struggling with the high beam/DRL solution.
 

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In stock projector housings? You may want to read the info from Odyfamily and other more detailed posts on how the light is not focused and how it is a safety hazard for oncoming drivers. You will perceive better light but its a waste of money and time. HIR2 was nearly equal output. Make sure to check out MrRangerZr1 video as well.
 

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I have the OPT7 Fluxbeam LEDs installed on my 2012 Prius and the Fluxbeam X LEDs installed on my 2000 Excursion. Love them both. Looking at getting a set for the Odyssey DRL and possibly fog lights. PM me if you plan on going with OPT7. I have a coupon code.
 

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I tried LED's in the low-beams (H11's), and although the lumen output was supposed to be higher, there was no improvement (or perhaps a little worse) than the factory 55w halogens. Going to put in some 35W HID's in there to give it a go. Should outperform the LED's for brightness.
 

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JDMMAN, what year Odyssey?

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Then I take it you've got the OEM halogen projectors. I was actually able to get pictures of them and their OEM HID counterparts side-by-side in another post, but can't find it right now.

On to the differences: the OEM halogen projectors have a shorter body (contains the confocal polyellipsoid reflector suface, known as a "collector"). The Honda OEM HID projector is visibly longer. The shorter projector body is excellent for the halogen bulb as a light source with its axial filament.

If you put a re-based HID capsule into that shorter OEM halogen projector, you can actually get a tiny more light down the road. True, if I place a light meter at the extreme end of the beam pattern down the road, the HID does have the slightest edge in down-the-road light throw. That is the only plus, and it's a minuscule one at that.

The negatives:
1.) There is no industry standard for dimensions of re-based HID capsules. You may end up with two different light patterns, one on the left, one on the right. Indexing is only marginally helpful.
2.) The HID capsule doesn't give a nearly straight axial distribution of light, and the halogen projector's collector curvature is not optimized for that. Out of all the extra lumens that are being generated, most of them will end up "in your lap". In other words, the headlights become more like "puddle lights".
3.) You will get the appearance of more light, but in the wrong way. Most headlights of any sort still unevenly distribute too much light in the first quarter of the beam in terms of light thrown down the roadway. With an HID capsule in a halogen projector, most of your lumen increase ends up right in front of your bumper, worsening this already uneven light distribution. It ends up in the bottom half of your visual field, in your face, wrecking your dark adapted vision.

I work a lot with NVD's (night vision devices) for the DoD, and I've used them at work, a lot. I can tell you that this type of boosted foreground lighting greatly reduces your eyeball's dark adapted vision to detect distant objects, almost exactly in the same way that "skyglow" wrecks visibility of foreground vis in a set of night vision goggles while airborne. They are negative effects in different parts of the FOV, but identical in how the negative effect is generated, namely by too much light in the wrong place.

Yes, it looks cool, all that bright foreground light ahead of the bumper, but you're not achieving the goal of better light throw down the road as measured against light throw in the first major fractions of beam pattern ahead of the bumper. HID is supposed to be a complete system, namely the collector/projector (headlight) mated properly with the light source (HID capsule), and of course the power source. I'm not a fan of HID "plug and play" or HID "drop in" kits. None of them do what they promise.

A lot of guys on the Trans-Am and Firebird forums remove their old rectangular sealed beams, and retrofit Hella 60mm halogen projectors. Good stuff if they use the intended 9005 halogen bulbs, or immensely better, HIR1 halogen bulbs. Sadly, after all that hard work, many opt for re-based 9005 HID capsules, and the pictures of their beam patterns look just weird to me.

You've got an expensive, modern vehicle. I wouldn't put a cheap HID kit into it. Collect your $$$, take your time, and pursue a proper HID lightning system, if HID is your goal.

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I think the Mini H1 architecture is better than Mini D2S. The Mini H1 has better light thrown down the road than most other basic HID projector retrofit solutions (i.e., those that do not require cutting of the reflector).

You're right, pappy. You've got the experience from seeing if LED or HID can be helpful in a halogen fixture (it isn't).

The moderators on the Candlepower forum spend soooo much time answering the questions regarding blue coated bulbs or "cool white" bulbs or "cool white LEDs", and using hard-earned data to get people to not worry so much about getting blue color or "cool white" output as opposed to achieving proper light distribution and down-the-road light output (which is the correct way to improve lighting).

6000K "cool white" is not an optimum solution for driving on unlit roads on a moonless, overcast night. "True white light" will have a healthy amount of red, orange and yellow wavelengths, and yes, it contributes to the yellow tinge in true white light, but you need this to see things you don't want to hit with your van.

That's usually the first question people ask, and that is how to get that type of color temperature (6000k+) or "cool white" look. I don't envy -Virgil- (CPForums moderator) having to break out the big stick and have to beat that deceased equine over and over.

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First thing I did was install a Kensun 5000k HID kit to replace the projector low beams in our 2016 EX-L. A huge improvement. I'm still struggling with the high beam/DRL solution.
I have a 2008 Odyssey Touring. Is the Kensun hard to install? Does it flicker when first turned on or when switching from high back to low beam?
 

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Dog, that Kensun won't give you the desired result; you have a Gen 3 Odyssey with halogen reflector headlamps.

The OP, NavigatorsVan, was looking to improve his lighting with a drop-in LED kit in his Gen 3 Odyssey. For the most part, forum members have not had good results with these. Usually, the next topic is HID. Won't work in a Gen 3 without a projector retrofit.

13kids4cats' post doesn't address the issue of better light in a Gen 3 Odyssey; his is a 2016 (Gen 4), and he's getting a half-baked result by using the stock halogen projector.

If you want a noticeable increase in light in your Gen 3 Odyssey with minimal work at low cost, see this thread on HIR bulbs by chuckerants: LINK.

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Dog, that Kensun won't give you the desired result; you have a Gen 3 Odyssey with halogen reflector headlamps.

The OP, NavigatorsVan, was looking to improve his lighting with a drop-in LED kit in his Gen 3 Odyssey. For the most part, forum members have not had good results with these. Usually, the next topic is HID. Won't work in a Gen 3 without a projector retrofit.

13kids4cats' post doesn't address the issue of better light in a Gen 3 Odyssey; his is a 2016 (Gen 4), and he's getting a half-baked result by using the stock halogen projector.

If you want a noticeable increase in light in your Gen 3 Odyssey with minimal work at low cost, see this thread on HIR bulbs by chuckerants: LINK.

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I ordered the 9012LL/HIR2 LL from ebay seller r3seller. They arrived today and I installed one. It's unimpressive. It's about the same or slightly dimmer than the old Sylvania basic 9006 on the passenger side. Did I buy the wrong bulb?
 

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...or, in the rare event you have a bad bulb. It's possible, but not likely.

The most likely culprit is the plug and/or wiring. I once had a car that actually did the same thing when I changed to a quality headlight setup, so I simply used the stock wiring for relay triggering only, and ran heavier gauge in the shortest run possible from the battery to a set of relays, then individual heavy gauge runs to each bulb. That allowed the bulbs to work the way they should have.

If you take a look at how Honda runs relays for headlights, they are only for use to reduce switching current loads for turning the lights on or off automatically, not allow max current to the bulbs. The full current load actually travels through your stalk mounted headlight switch.

We've had a number of Gen 3 owners report back with good results for HIR bulbs. Just used our HIR2's and HIR1's tonight in our Accord, still considerably brighter than the plain-Jane Sylvania 9006's. My son gave two-thumbs up on the first night he drove his Civic with HIR2's.

Either way, too bad it didn't work out solely with a bulb replacement.

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I posted to another thread before I saw this. Thanks for the advice. Headlight wiring is not a project I'd want to take on right now. I'd have to read up on it and there's a lot of other things that I plan to to first with this new-to-me 2008 Odyssey. I'll try installing another bulb on the passenger side and see if I can tell a difference. If it's the plug, there should be a difference. If it's the wiring, it should be the same. I'll try to do it today or over the weekend. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Best I can help, with what my ancient noggin has got. Dog, it really boils down to statistics...there are a lot of HIR2 success stories when we combine results on this forum, Accord and Civic forums, and other car forums. Sadly, once in a while someone trying this avenue ends up not achieving the result they were seeking.

Doing my best to steer people away from solutions that don't work, like re-based HID capsules placed into generic halogen reflector headlights. Same for LED's placed into same halogen reflector headlights. Those light sources require an integrated solution, an entire system dedicated to using the light source properly and sending light where it is supposed to go.

Below is a Hella LED module. Power supply, led projector, light source. It's an integrated solution:



It's also about $700...for just ONE!. It's one of the reasons why we only see OEM LED lighting on upscale trim offerings in the latest Odyssey. Initial entry price is expensive.

I'm always on the look for better lighting options, especially with my ancient peepers. Human dark-adapted vision does not improve with age!



(Not me, but it could be! :D )

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