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While changing the engine oil I noticed some wetness/oily residue on the underside carriage (on the left/drivers' side - not the engine oil filter side). Cleaned it up and watched for a leak - sure enough a few weeks later it was wet again and the floor had reddish oil on it. Great.

Took it to the dealer (under powertrain warranty) and they replaced the left axle seal.

Here's the detail for reference:

2191F4 Left Axle Seal
1 91205-P0X-005 2 Oil Seal, 40X56X9
1 CA66844 8 Honda ATF-DW1, 1LT
FC: 099-99
Part# 91205-P0X-005
Count: 1
0.8 Hours

(Found at ~35,000 KM / ~22,000 miles)
 

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Funny you have driver's side leak, I have Passenger Side's leak. Driver's side is dry!

I have noticed this since 10K miles, I have 52K miles now, no worse over the last 4 years/40K miles, so I leave it alone.

Just a very very slight leak, enough to create a thin film below the Pass Side's Axle Seal and at the bottom of the transmission, just a thin film covered with dirt/grime. Wiped it off and all is clean. No oil on driveway.

I change ATF every 25K miles, and between changes, the dipstick looks the same.

I guess I can bring the car in for a check. Power Train warranty is 5y/60K miles.
 

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I noticed moisture on the bottom of ours as well a few months back. Dealer changed the axle seal as well under warranty.
 

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Hate to revive such an old thread, but changing the oil and trans fluid at 55k yesterday and noticed the leak is back. Arghh!
 

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It's really not that bad a DIY repair - hardest thing is removing the axle nut (which isn't that hard - you need to bang out the staked area, and then it's just on there really tight - you need a breaker bar) - parts cost is pretty minimal - just the seal itself and the axle nut (you'll also need to drain the trans fluid, so 3.3qts or so of that, too)
 

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It's really not that bad a DIY repair - hardest thing is removing the axle nut (which isn't that hard - you need to bang out the staked area, and then it's just on there really tight - you need a breaker bar) - parts cost is pretty minimal - just the seal itself and the axle nut (you'll also need to drain the trans fluid, so 3.3qts or so of that, too)
True, but you've also got to drop the steering knuckle, pound your half-shaft out of the hub, make sure you don't tear out your brake line or ABS sensor wiring, etc.

If your proficient at doing a full brake job, you could do a half-shaft and/or seal.

Joel
 

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I am looking at my 2007 Ody LX.
(R) side 91206-P0Z-005 (NOK) $10
(L) side 91205-P0X-005 (NOK) $10


These seals are made by NOK, a Japanese company, which I do not know the reputation, but considering that these seals leak early (30K-60K; compared with the "norm" of 100K-120K), I'd not hesitate to switch to another maker such as SKF.

I have had very good luck with SKF. Anyway, these are SKF PNs for those interested:

(R) Seal 91206-P0Z-005 ---> SKF 13439...$7 on amazon
(L) Seal 91205-P0X-005 ---> SKF 15669...$7 on amazon



PS: my BMW and Volvo uses SKF seals...
 

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True, but you've also got to drop the steering knuckle, pound your half-shaft out of the hub, make sure you don't tear out your brake line or ABS sensor wiring, etc.
right - I left out undoing the strut from the knuckle (which is much easier than the axle nut) and undoing the ABS sensor from the knuckle (you can get away with not, but better safe than sorry), using a hangar to hold things in place, etc. - fortunately for me, both axles popped right out of the knuckles without much coaxing (benefit of living in the southwest - I had axle boots tear on both sides, but no rust to speak of under the car - makes it easy to work on the car even after 7 years and 140k miles!)
 

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DrD, It's been years since I've done one, but how easily did the half-shafts pop out of the AT case? I recall having issues with a circlip on a Nissan years ago...

Thanks!
 

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DrD, It's been years since I've done one, but how easily did the half-shafts pop out of the AT case? I recall having issues with a circlip on a Nissan years ago...

Thanks!
I've done several axle replacements and never had any problems with this. The trick my mechanic friends use is to use one or two of those pry bars (commonly sold in a 4-piece set at Sears & Harbor Freight) that have the slight bend at the end - this angle is usually perfect for prying between the transaxle housing and the fat part of the inner CV joint.
 

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^^^^^
yup - you need to pry them out a little - I used something like described above - there's a circlip near the end of the splined part of the axle which latches into the transmission, so you have to pull hard enough to dislodge it from where it's being held (it will stay on the end of the axle)
 
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