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Discussion Starter #1
I put new rotors and pads on the front due to audible grinding upon applying the brakes. The drivers side inner pad was to the metal, all the other pads had .125 - .250 left. After replacing, I went for a drive and sounded like the drivers side rotor was reverberating at speed. That seems to have subsided and now just squeals when going left, even low speed but fine going right.
I'm getting ready to check it over, I'm thinking the dust shield may be involved in someway.
Any thoughts?
 

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Make sure you have installed the metal shim back into place. I re-used my oem one a few months ago when I did my front pads and rotor. and is good as new.
 

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That asymmetric wear pattern on the parts you removed means you had a problem. Simply replacing the pads without fixing the problem ... well it did not fix the problem. And you'll have the same wear pattern again.

Of course make sure you have all the correct parts installed, and that they are in place.

But one often overlooked problem is the slide pins on the calipers. They need to let things move easily as the brake pads clamp around the rotor. Look it up on a parts diagram to see exactly where they are. Take things apart again, and be sure things move easily. They may be completely stuck, corroded, or need grease. Depending on how bad it is, you may need to buy new slide pins (<$10 at your local dealer) with the associated rubber parts, clean any corrosion on the mating surfaces, re-grease with high temp silicone grease, and reinstall.

Here's a very common root cause to this problem, perhaps caused by the previous mechanic ... the rubber bellows at the base of the slide pin may be cut or displaced, allowing water to enter. Once that happens, grease comes out, rust gets in, and things freeze up.
 

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Follow this video done by MrRanger.....great step by step video, even though he did it on a 11-17 it apply to ours as well.

 

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+1 for there being a caliper issue. Whether or not it can be corrected or will need the caliper replaced depends on the root cause. Assuming from your user name it isn't your car, so that makes it even harder to keep an eye on it and then I would lean toward just replacing the caliper and being done.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all for the posts. I used all the shims supplied with the new pads, and I'm thinking it may be pins. I'm sourcing replacement pins and boots now to just replace. Figure if I'm going in again I'll just replace. Or at least have them on hand if needed.
 

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Doubt you need replacement pins, but your choice. Boots only need to be replaced if they are torn or cracked. Small holes or tears in the boots can be patched with black RTV, assuming they are still flexible.

Clean the pins and the hole, and relube with 3M silicone paste 08946 or sil-glyde. I use the 3M stuff.

One other thing to check is that the slide pins were put back in the correct location. Normally the top pin is different from the bottom pin and they are not to be swapped to the other position. I only pull out one at a time so I don't mix them up.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Being unemployed currently the Ody gets little use, and I was waiting for an opportune day such as today, 60 and sunny. So, the passenger window doesn't go down due to the door control module malfunctioning....again. So I pulled the drivers side wheel off, removed the pins, cleaned inside and out, sanded, regreased and reassembled. Noise remains. Took a break to verify pin position, bushing top or bottom, and very conflicting answers on that as both top and bottom are stated. However, I liked best that the bushing is top so you can swing the caliper up and out of the way for a pad job and went with that. So, deciding to check passenger side before pulling driver side again, I both pins were of the nonbushing variety and decided to replace them and boots. Cleaning out the pin recess I relubed with some Lucas red wheel bearing grease. As I said, unemployed and times are tight and I had it on hand. Voila! Noise gone. I guess if I were able to roll down the passenger window I would have better been able to determine the side the sound was coming from. Oh well, shoulda done it initially anyway...
Thanks again for the help!
 

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If you take your brackets off to R&R them, here are a few tips. Remove the guide hardware and wire brush them well. Place a light coating of the grease you mention above behind the guide hardware before you put the hardware back in. Don't lube the channels where the pads ride directly, just beneath the hardware (between it and the actual caliper bracket). Lube your bolts for the brackets and reinstall. Make sure you have the caliper torqued down tight. The pads should be able to move more or less freely in the slots. Lube the back surface of the pads slightly where they hit the caliper or the other side of the bracket. If your pins are well lube and sliding freely, you should be noise free. Make sure that you properly bed the pads into the new rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So quick recap, drivers side brakes grinding, replace pads and rotors both sides, drivers side inside pad was to the metal, outer had about 1/4". Notice a metallic squealing sound which settles down to just during left turns. Remove calipers and grease pins drivers side. Replace pins pass. side. All pins after cleaning/replacing moved freely, I was able to easily stroke them with no binding.
Sound does seem to come from passenger side but need to get someone outside to verify as passenger window doesn't go down.
I'm not sure what you mean by bed the pads.
Also, why is it only when turning left?! I don't get this, why not anytime or left also. Turning right doesn't/shouldn't change the position of the rotor to the caliper. Why does it care which way the wheel is going lol
 
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