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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In my 2011 Odyssey EX-L, map light stopped working all of sudden (both bulbs). It would not work either with doors or switch.

Removed the lens and inspected the blubs....which were fine. If I push on the bulbs, it would work but as soon as I remove the pressure it stops working.

Removed 4 screws securing the assembly and pulled out the lights fixture. Tested continuity at the switches....switches were working fine.

Then I noticed that one of the terminal to bulb is a direct connect to the switch (middle pin out of 3). As we push the switch on/off, that terminal would move. On further inspection I saw that the terminal has become loose over years of use.

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Removed the switch by pushing it out, pull out the metal connector (rail) and crimped the terminal a bit using nose pliers. Put everything back, voila its working again.

I am using Sylvania DE3175 10W bulbs without a problem for over 2 yrs....no need to buy expensive Honda 8W bulb in my opinion.
 

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2012 Odyssey EX-L / VCM-Tuner 2
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I have one of two not working for some time and will check if it's just the bulb (hopefully). Thanks for the reference to the cheaper bulb reference as I was able to get a pair from Amazon for a couple of bucks. If it's not the bulb, then this information will be of much help. Googling I also found a good youtube video (linked below) where the videographer replaced the push switch to address the issue per guidance, he had gotten from a Honda tech, which was not the case here as the OP tested the continuity on the switches to confirm that they were good.

Map light bulb / push switch replacement

Link 2 - Good tips and not full disassembly - Pilot but applies to Odys too.
 

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You could also replace those bulbs with LED which is brighter and lasts longer. It was literally like night and day when I put LEDs into my '96 1st Gen.
 

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2012 EX-L with ~170K Rolling through the Swamps of Mississippi
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NG - thanks for posting the thread and your fix. I had previously taken the assembly out, checked the bulbs, switched the bulbs and generally fiddled with everything (which sometimes works on old electrical stuff) - but managed to only get one working - and it only worked for a few days. Today, after finding this post, I just got mine working again but the issue was not the metal connector rail like yours - it was the push on/push off switches theselves. I went to the link that sfbayguy provided - where the video showed a guy replacing the switches with parts he bought from Amazon. I was going to order some and replace them, but I thought - let me pull them out, spray some electrical contact cleaner/lubricant into them and see if that might bring them back to life. It did. I am going to buy some LED's and I think I will prefer brighter map lights.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
NG - thanks for posting the thread and your fix. I had previously taken the assembly out, checked the bulbs, switched the bulbs and generally fiddled with everything (which sometimes works on old electrical stuff) - but managed to only get one working - and it only worked for a few days. Today, after finding this post, I just got mine working again but the issue was not the metal connector rail like yours - it was the push on/push off switches theselves. I went to the link that sfbayguy provided - where the video showed a guy replacing the switches with parts he bought from Amazon. I was going to order some and replace them, but I thought - let me pull them out, spray some electrical contact cleaner/lubricant into them and see if that might bring them back to life. It did. I am going to buy some LED's and I think I will prefer brighter map lights.

Thanks!
If you have to replace the switches:
 

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Great timing on this post. My 2011 EXL’s map light stopped working last night, or that is when I noticed it, when you turn the key off, the lights come on in the van, except the drivers map light. It works just fine when you push the light to activate it though. So I don’t think it’s a bulb…. So I am going to start exploring for loose connections.


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Well, the research I did says that it is most likely cause is the switch contained within the map light. Looks like the switch is included in the overall assembly for $80. I ordered a Dorman switch for $10. Will post back if it works or not.


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2012 EX-L with ~170K Rolling through the Swamps of Mississippi
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skeetie - I really suggest that you watch what this guy does in this video:

Replace map light switches - Honda Odyssey

and instead of replacing the little push switches, spray them with electrical contact cleaner (into the little holes - 3 holes on each one) - and reinstall - see if that fixes your issue. Totally easy and worth a shot - if you are interested in getting more life out of the original switches. If it does not work, you're only out like 15 mins of time.

With that said - if you are the type of person who would prefer to replace the malfunctioning part with a new part versus fixing it - totally understand......we're all wired differently in that regard.

Good luck.
 

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skeetie - I really suggest that you watch what this guy does in this video:

Replace map light switches - Honda Odyssey

and instead of replacing the little push switches, spray them with electrical contact cleaner (into the little holes - 3 holes on each one) - and reinstall - see if that fixes your issue. Totally easy and worth a shot - if you are interested in getting more life out of the original switches. If it does not work, you're only out like 15 mins of time.

With that said - if you are the type of person who would prefer to replace the malfunctioning part with a new part versus fixing it - totally understand......we're all wired differently in that regard.

Good luck.
I went to do what you suggested with the switch and before I could do anything, it is now working normally again without any intervention


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2012 EX-L with ~170K Rolling through the Swamps of Mississippi
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Right on man. That is good to hear. For what it's worth - my theory would be that the mere act of "fiddling" with the map light housing/assembly caused some movement of the switch pins within the switches - which likely caused the connection(s) to be reestablished. The fix might be temporary - but if it begins flaking out again, you know what to do next!
 
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