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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The MIL light on during the van stared moving after stopped at traffic light. The van run very slow and the engine RPM up to 3,000, the van couldn't pick up the speed for more than ten second, then pull off the road, turned off the engine and restarted again and van ran fine after that.
go home pull the code with code scanner and I have P07030.
Could any members can tell me what's wrong with the transmission?
My van is 2002 EXL with 181000 km still with original transmission. Last drain & refill three time at 166750 KM.
Any help will be very appreciated.

Patrick
 

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Probably third gear clutch failed. Likely will need a new transmission. $$$$ cost

The MIL light on during the van stared moving after stopped at traffic light. The van run very slow and the engine RPM up to 3,000, the van couldn't pick up the speed for more than ten second, then pull off the road, turned off the engine and restarted again and van ran fine after that.
go home pull the code with code scanner and I have P07030.
Could any members can tell me what's wrong with the transmission?
I feel very sorry for you. Mine did the same thing. Slipping and hardly moving like yours. CEL on. Also violent shuddering and vibrating sometimes. Slipped less when cold. Slipped most when shifting from 2nd gear to 3rd gear. Slipped shifting from 4th to 3rd. Slipped worse and worse. After about a month, became undriveable. Slipped so much, would hardly go above 25 mph. Accelerating very slow reduced but did not eliminate slipping. Generic code reader said P0730. Incorrect gear ratio according to the generic tool. Took it to dealer. Said needed new transmission. But we have to order it. We will call you. Rebuild installed eventually.

What happened is the third gear clutch went bad. Warnings were rough shifts for months and nearly black ATF sometimes when changing Z1 Honda ATF every 10,000 miles.

I feel sorry for you. Likely will need a rebuilt transmission. This is a bad transmission which fails often.
 

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It isn't necessarily the end. Check the other threads for the 'Root cause and a fix' thread. It might improve the behavior for a while.


Check the transmission fluid condition and level.

If its low and clean, add some and drive happy.

If its dark, get that code cleared, change the fluid, and drive right to the dealer to trade it in :)



I've actually got that same condition in my 2002 EXL with 111k miles or so. Its been slipping when entering third on occasion(for at least 6 months), and threw its first P0730 code a week or two ago. Fluid is clean and full.

I haven't and won't tear into this transmission, but from what I can see in the service manual, I suspect that the plates or sliding mechanism of the 3rd gear clutch is getting stuck(wedged) on the shaft, which leaves the gear not fully engaged. By stopping, the transmission shifts back to 2 then 1, and either of those will get the 3rd gear clutch to disengage. The next engagement goes better :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't know whether the slippage happened at 3rd gear or 4th gear, what I feel the van couldn't accelerate to a proper speed during that time, the CEL light on with TCS lamp on too (thiis light is normal when some error code issued).
I am wondering is that possible changing either the 3rd or 4th gear fluid Pressure switch will Fix the problem for a while without replace the transmission.
I did check the fluid & level was okay.
Thanks for the reply.
Patrick
 

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No other codes stored at same time as P0730, right?

Measure the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th clutch pressure.
Is each clutch pressure within the service limit?
NO - Replace the transmission
YES - Troubleshoot these components and replace defective ones:

Shift solenoid valves A, B, and C
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B

But I dare say that even after checking pressures and valves, members have had to change the tranny in the end.
 

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'01 Odyssey - I just cleaned the screens and on my test drive I got a hard shift, flashing D4 light, and 2 codes (P0730 and P0780). Screens were very dirty, but the fluid is still clean. After getting the codes read, I added a half pint of Z1 ATF and it drove much better. I'm certain there are still issues with the tranny, but I'm doing my best to limp it through the issues while I come up with the cash to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
New Dad New Van said:
No other codes stored at same time as P0730, right?

Measure the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th clutch pressure.
Is each clutch pressure within the service limit?
NO - Replace the transmission
YES - Troubleshoot these components and replace defective ones:

Shift solenoid valves A, B, and C
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B

But I dare say that even after checking pressures and valves, members have had to change the tranny in the end.
Are you saying that to measure the A,B & C control valves solenoid resistance values or values of the pressure switch?
How to measure and location of the solenoid valves or pressure switch?

Thanks, Patrick
 

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Measure line pressure at the line pressure inspection holes on the transmission using an A/T clutch pressure gauge set.

Measure shift solenoid valve resistances at the solenoid valve connectors. If within standard range, connect the connector to the battery terminals and you should hear a clicking sound if valves are OK.

Is this a DIY job you can do? If not, take to a mechanic to perform.

Search on the locations and measuring resistances for more info...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
New Dad New Van said:
Measure line pressure at the line pressure inspection holes on the transmission using an A/T clutch pressure gauge set.

Measure shift solenoid valve resistances at the solenoid valve connectors. If within standard range, connect the connector to the battery terminals and you should hear a clicking sound if valves are OK.

Is this a DIY job you can do? If not, take to a mechanic to perform.

Search on the locations and measuring resistances for more info...
Yes, that's the only code P07030 stored, no other code.
I will find some diagrams to locate the A,B, & C solenoid valve and check the resistance of the valves, also test for clicking sound.
I don't have the A/T clutch pressure gauge.
I will replace the small A/T fluid filter and drain/fill 3 times, reset the code and see how it go.
 

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Also watch for delayed click

When yuo test solenoid by applying short pulse, watch for delayed response. I found front bottom shift solenoid has delayed response about 1 second. I will change myself for 30.00 buck solenoid.

Still I have problem to remove other shift solenod (front upper). It touches starter gear body-- I could not remove. Appreciate any clue/trick wht do do. I don't have Honda shop manual.


Thanks
 

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Thanks for informatin. I was able to remove the Shift Solenoid Valve C by removing the starter-- no problem.
Problem comes in when I try to remove the Shift Solenoid Valve B which is located higher than valve C -- therefore closer to AT tranny valve body. I can wiggle out; but still its length allow to come out only half and then touch the transmission body even starter was removed. There are three shift solenoid valves in 2002 5-speed tranny.

It seems like you have Helm manual. Would you mind to look up for me?

Thanks
 

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This is all the info on them...

Shift Solenoid Valve A and C Replacement
NOTE: If shift solenoid valves A and C are replaced or removed at the same time, be sure to reinstall them correctly. The connector color of shift solenoid valve A is black, and the connector color of shift solenoid valve C is brown.
1. If you are replacing shift solenoid valve C, remove the starter.
2. Remove the mounting bolt and the shift solenoid valve A.
3. Remove the mounting bolt and shift solenoid valve C.
4. Install a new shift solenoid valve A or C with new O-rings (3 of them). While installing the valves, do not allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the transmission.
5. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then reconnect them.
6. Install the starter, if removed.

Shift Solenoid Valve B Replacement
1. Remove the mounting bolt and the shift solenoid valve B.
2. Install a new shift solenoid valve B with new Orings (3 of them). When installing the solenoid valve, do not allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the transmission.
3. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then reconnect it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
New Dad New Van said:
This is all the info on them...

Shift Solenoid Valve A and C Replacement
NOTE: If shift solenoid valves A and C are replaced or removed at the same time, be sure to reinstall them correctly. The connector color of shift solenoid valve A is black, and the connector color of shift solenoid valve C is brown.
1. If you are replacing shift solenoid valve C, remove the starter.
2. Remove the mounting bolt and the shift solenoid valve A.
3. Remove the mounting bolt and shift solenoid valve C.
4. Install a new shift solenoid valve A or C with new O-rings (3 of them). While installing the valves, do not allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the transmission.
5. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then reconnect them.
6. Install the starter, if removed.

Shift Solenoid Valve B Replacement
1. Remove the mounting bolt and the shift solenoid valve B.
2. Install a new shift solenoid valve B with new Orings (3 of them). When installing the solenoid valve, do not allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the transmission.
3. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then reconnect it.
Thanks for the info.

Can I order those shift Solenoid valve from Benardparts.com instead from local Honda dearler in Canada?
Are they ship parts to Canada?
How much different in prices (add exchange rate + custom duty & brokerage fee if they ship through UPS or Fedex)?
 

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Try these guys http://www.yourhondaparts.com/

They ship to Canada plus they ship via USPS who do not charge a brokerage fee.

I think if you factor in the extra shipping, the exchange at .95 to the USD and they ship USPS, you will save money. Look up the part on the website and call your local dealer to compare just for fun. I bet you the price is double.

I just made an order yesterday with them and will provide feedback when complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you for your info.
I will try to call our local dearler to see what's the price are as compare to the U.S. Honda dearler and feedback to the forum.
 

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http://www.yourhondaparts.com/

The result of my order with these people:

Shipping time was 18 days.

Total of order was $149.93 USD (included $27.54 USD for shipping).

Total of order converted to CDN$ was $155.79 plus $20.25 tax and $5 handling fee for a total of $181.04 CDN$.

That's about 21%. This is a huge savings. The water pump alone saved $80 CDN$. The local dealer wanted 84% more for this part!
 

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Eventually... got rebuilt

I tried and tried... clean solenoid/ test solenoid latency.
I had B&M big tranny filter and hayden cooler so long time.


Nothing DIY helped.
Honda dealer did not help much-- best deal I can get is to pay 50% ($1900) for the same clutch material probably. They wanted to make money out of customer's trouble.

My car is in the local transmission shop to rebuild --- now my ordeal is over at $1400 at 65000 miles

Will never buy honda again!!!

Tranny shop owner immediately noticed "whinning" noise from tranny indicates onset of slipping and it pronounced at 3 rd gear transition-- which needs most torque.


It is not safe to get on the freeway if you are not sure transmission will be engaged on next push--I cannot gamble on my family's safety.

Thanks you for those who help me navigate thru tranny issue. Next one will be European or Korean car which seems better quality control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: Eventually... got rebuilt

TwoKidsDad said:
I tried and tried... clean solenoid/ test solenoid latency.
I had B&M big tranny filter and hayden cooler so long time.


Nothing DIY helped.
Honda dealer did not help much-- best deal I can get is to pay 50% ($1900) for the same clutch material probably. They wanted to make money out of customer's trouble.

My car is in the local transmission shop to rebuild --- now my ordeal is over at $1400 at 65000 miles

Will never buy honda again!!!

Tranny shop owner immediately noticed "whinning" noise from tranny indicates onset of slipping and it pronounced at 3 rd gear transition-- which needs most torque.


It is not safe to get on the freeway if you are not sure transmission will be engaged on next push--I cannot gamble on my family's safety.

Thanks you for those who help me navigate thru tranny issue. Next one will be European or Korean car which seems better quality control.
I totally agreed with you that the 2002-2004 Honda auto transmission is not really reliable and I have to take good care of the maintenance, otherwise it will be failed long time ago than right now at 181733 Km, still running after I reset the fault code, drain & refill fluid and changed OEM filter.

I have to wait until I have save enough money to trade in another van, but not a Honda Odyssey again. I don't know the new generation Odyssey from 2008-2010 reliability?
I also wait to see the 2011 Toyota Sinanna & Odyssey, what they offer for the design and engine power train???
 
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