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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took the ODY for a long vacation (1000 mile trip from Midwest to east coast). Prior to trip, I checked fluids and tires. All set.

Made it to destination and no issues. Everything went well and was pleased with the Ody performance.

Mid-week, the check engine light started blinking and some rough idling upon start up of the van. Powered it off and back on, idle was normal and check engine light went away. Happened one more time during the trip.. but cleared up on it's own. Hoping for the best.

Fast forward to today on our return trip home. At 500 mile mark after getting gas, got check engine light started blinking and was running rough but this time it stayed flashing.

Found an Autozone. borrow tools to to read code

P0301. My spark plugs were new from last summer. I figure it was ignition coil. Changed out coil. Still idling rough. Put OEM back and changed out spark plugs. everything look good. started driving and check engine started flashing.

No other choice but to limp home with a P0301 for 500miles. I think there was still misfires but when i got it to 70mph, i think the ECU compensated for the P0301

Not sure what to do next. Did my coil pack fail? was the one from autozone bad? Ine
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Here is my freeze frame.

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May have to run engine longer to get the fuel trims to register?

1) Swap coil and plug on 1 with 4, clear codes, test. Could also test for spark on #1
2) If still misfire #1, do a compression test (easier than getting at the fuel injectors), kit is cheap
3) If compression ok on all cylinders, then I think it is time to look at fuel injector #1
 

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I can tell you that you should go OEM on coils. Generally the parts store ones are not as good as them.

I agree with Mesquite77. Start with a coil drop test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
1) Swap coil and plug on 1 with 4, clear codes, test. Could also test for spark on #1
You had me at number 1.

I moved the spark plug/ignition coil from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4. Move the spark plug/ignition coil from cylinder 4 to cylinder 1. Problem is gone after I PROPERLY TORQUE new spark plug in. 18 nm. 13 ft pounds. I hand tightened and then a quarter turn since i did not want to break the spart plugs.

So it appears the original spark plug in CYLINDER 1 is bad... and the problem was fixed with the new plug. If I properly torqued it, it would have been fine for the 500 miles.

Today I learned, I realize I am not that good of a mechanic... a weekend DIY at best. pretty humbling to think I can't the basis done.. I also learn a mechanic is only as good as a tool he as available...

Thanks for everyone's response
 

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Glad it worked out! I had 2 low beams fail at same time while 2,500 miles from home, was sure it had to be electrical. Pissed off about a 1000 peeps with my high beams, and when I got home, found both bulbs had failed (and I had replacements with me the whole time), sheesh. BTW, the failed bulbs were extra bights, only lasted 2 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Ugh. Bad news. It drove fine for 9 miles and no issues. Check engine light never appeared


everything was fine.

I went to reset the PCM and and let it idle for 30 minutes... now check engine flashing again. In cylinder 1... with the coil and spark that was known good from cylinder 4.



should I still do compression test or go straight to fuel injectors.

Anything I can do to test using the Foxwell nt510 elite?

Seems that when I restart the car. The flashing check engine light goes away
 

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Ugh. Bad news. It drove fine for 9 miles and no issues. Check engine light never appeared


everything was fine.

I went to reset the PCM and and let it idle for 30 minutes... now check engine flashing again. In cylinder 1... with the coil and spark that was known good from cylinder 4.



should I still do compression test or go straight to fuel injectors.

Anything I can do to test using the Foxwell nt510 elite?

Seems that when I restart the car. The flashing check engine light goes away
The thing is you moved over both the coil and plug. The goal is to move only the coil to see if it's a problem with the coil or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The problem stayed with cylinder 1 so wouldn’t it rule out both plug and coil pack out since a different plug and coil pack in cylinder 1 now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If I had low or no compression wouldn’t I get misfires all the time? Should proceed to testing injectors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Found this post... surely seems like my problem... I think I need a new fuel injector..

On another note: I had a code P0306 (cylinder 6) last month on our way to Disneyland with my family. Got 120 miles out and CEL came on blinking. Pulled over to the next stop, checked the code with my OBD2 scanner. I was lucky that a buddy of mine lived near by and bought the parts for me and delivered to where we were at. Changed out the coil pack and plug hoping that would fix the issue to no avail :(. Pulled over, switched the coil pack out from another cylinder and it did the same thing. Cleared the CEL code and drove back home going 60-65mph without setting off the CEL. The next day I drove over 70mph to see if I can set off the CEL and it did. Drove to see my mechanic, told him everything, and he said it could be the fuel injector. Changed it out for a new one and that's been resolved for now.
 

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Your freezeframe data shows Open Loop....no correction on STFT.. 0.0%..... so process of elimination, can’t be O2 sensors, MAF sensor... etc could be injector on #1...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Compression test done... I forgot to open throttle but my results were

210-220 on all cylinders
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Took off the intake manifold and was going to replace the fuel injector in cylinder 1...

I squeeze wire harness clips and pulled off the clip for fuel injector 2 and 3. However For fuel injector one, the wire clip came off very easy and DID NOT require me to squeeze the clip.

Arghh.. was this it? A clip that did not lock and engine vibration shook it loose so it created erratic behavior on cylinder 1

I tested all three fuel injector resistance and all three read 10.6 ohms.... so the injector is within tolerance of each other...

I was gonna to swap out the injector but the failed clip would still be an issue.

I decided to zip tie the harness clip and test it for a longer period time.

I will report after a long term test
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well looks like that was it.... Problem is really fixed this time. NO CEL for 5 days.

No check engine light since I zip tied the injector harness clip.

So lesson for everyone.. if your injector harness clip does not click or you can pull out without sqeezing the tabs... . safer to put a zip tie on them... or you can cause cylinder misfires 500 miles away from home.
 
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