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Discussion Starter #1
I need some serious help here you guys. I have a misfire code on all cylinders on my 2007 Honda Odyssey and I am ready to break!
I have changed the spark plugs, checked coil packs, checked compression, checked valves, checked vacuum leaks, changed Injectors.
So as you can see I have done just about everything to resolve this issue and it's not happening. I cannot register it because of the code and now I am turning to you guys to help.
The check engine light blinks at me all the time. I can feel a slight shake in the engine at idle. The check light goes steady when I am moving but blinks in idle.
Most of the time it gives me cylinder 6 as the problem but about every other time I check it it has codes for all Cylinders including the p0300 Random one.

Can anyone help me please? I am about ready to drive it off a cliff.

thanks
Craig
 

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how did you check coil packs? I keep seeing multiple engine misfire codes threads due to one bad coil.
Here is what I would do, with engine running, unplug each coil electrical connector one at a time.
If the car starts running noticably worse, the coil is fine, move to next one. If when you unplug the coil,
the engine continues to run as if nothing happened, you have your bad coil.

I have also seen replies that said it could be related to valve clearance, how many miles you got on your Ody?
Did you pull valve covers to check valve clearance?
What brand plugs did you use? The best and only plugs I would use in my Ody are OEM NGK, which you can buy from
any place, not just the dealer.
Max
 

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We owned a 06' EXL and had these codes show up shortly after purchasing it used with 84k miles. 0301-0306 cylinder bank misfire (or something like that) I replaced spark plugs, methodically pulled the coil pack plugs as suggested above by maxud, and ran a lot of ejector cleaner thru it. For us it ended up being the positive cable to the battery terminal. It was completely a "wire connection" issue. The positive terminal clamp stretches as it repeatedly gets tightened. Thus our connection got corroded and was less than optimal. I spliced in a new connector, reset the CEL and it stayed away (for about 1.5 yrs). Then it came back. Come to find out the spliced connection had developed corrosion within the copper wires and needed to be cleaned up. If I had it to do over again, I'd replace the entire positive cable line and not splice in an aftermarket terminal clamp.

Good luck with search.
-CJB
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i checked each coil pack very carefully. Each one seems to move the engine more when I unplug and smooth when I plug it back in. I bought the $15 each spark plugs NGKs with no success. I think they are overrated to be honest.

Anyway, we did valve clearance check and leak checks as well. Injectors are clean or appear to be clean. Just clean them with Injector cleaner through the tank?
I have not checked the positive battery cable so I will do that. We have 160,000 miles on it.

We are running out of options at this point. Continue with your suggestions. I'm listening very intently!

thanks
 

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How many miles are on the timing belt?

Would it be possible that the engine jumped timing one tooth?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
160 k miles. I just changed the timing belt and it doesn't seem to be off a tooth. How can I really check the belt being off a tooth? I cleaned the Mass airflow sensor but I guess it could be bad. Any other thoughts?
 

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160 k miles. I just changed the timing belt and it doesn't seem to be off a tooth. How can I really check the belt being off a tooth? I cleaned the Mass airflow sensor but I guess it could be bad. Any other thoughts?
If the timing is off, one of the sensors would trigger it? (Cam / crank).

If doubt with MAF sensor, try to run it without it. Disconnect the cable. With the factory software you can see live values from MAF. Wonder any generic obd reader can do this. If they can, it will be easy to spot. They have spec like at idle, at certain rpm etc. Also you should be seeing mpg difference.
 

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I need some serious help here you guys. I have a misfire code on all cylinders on my 2007 Honda Odyssey and I am ready to break!
I have changed the spark plugs, checked coil packs, checked compression, checked valves, checked vacuum leaks, changed Injectors.
So as you can see I have done just about everything to resolve this issue and it's not happening. I cannot register it because of the code and now I am turning to you guys to help.
The check engine light blinks at me all the time. I can feel a slight shake in the engine at idle. The check light goes steady when I am moving but blinks in idle.
Most of the time it gives me cylinder 6 as the problem but about every other time I check it it has codes for all Cylinders including the p0300 Random one.

Can anyone help me please? I am about ready to drive it off a cliff.

thanks
Craig
What are your valve clearances and were they checked at cold or warm?
Were the plugs torqued properly?
Was the intake manifold ever removed?
Was there any work done prior to this error occuring?

Any vacuum leak/air leak in the intake ? Also the injectors are clean?

Just my thoughts
Injector issue would be different and not on all cylinders

How many miles are on the timing belt?

Would it be possible that the engine jumped timing one tooth?
This would show as a huge misfire almost like a subaru if timing jumped.

If the timing is off, one of the sensors would trigger it? (Cam / crank).

If doubt with MAF sensor, try to run it without it. Disconnect the cable. With the factory software you can see live values from MAF. Wonder any generic obd reader can do this. If they can, it will be easy to spot. They have spec like at idle, at certain rpm etc. Also you should be seeing mpg difference.
Yes he would see a cam or crank sensor error and MAF won't really trigger this error.
 
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