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Discussion Starter #1
I hesitate to start a new thread on an old subject but it has been years since some of the older threads have been updated on this problem and the picture links are not working on them. I have a picture of the burned trace in the Passenger Side Multiplex Unit (PSMU) because I just replaced PSMU with a working used unit (it worked!). Like others, on my van ('02) the fob nor the door toggle would activate the driver's side front door; it would only unlock via the key. Since the driver's side must be unlocked before the other locks (passenger, sliding, and hatch) would unlock, I could not enjoy the remote convenience of the fob. I plan to post pictures and comments on the PSMU replacement job itself soon but I wanted to post a good closeup pic of the burned trace for others who may be contemplating a solder job on their unit vs buying a replacement. See this thread for some discussion of the soldering. Power door lock actuators & security system

I plan to try the soldering fix myself at some point on the bad unit so I will have a backup. Should be able to tell if I am successful without having to install the repaired unit by testing for resistance on the newly soldered jumper wire. Will post a pic of the result. But to anyone has done this fix and can give some tips, I will be most grateful. For one thing, it appears that the jumper wire should be soldered at points D18 and the spot next to C50 (don't know why that location is not numbered). That's where the burned part is. Is that right?

trace1.jpg
 

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Good job on the write up and picture. Hopefully it will give someone else more confidence to shell out the money on a new multiplexer. I suspected it was the multiplexer but was hesitant when telling you to replace it in your other thread because it is so costly. I am glad you got it working.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Multiplex Replacement with pictures

I finally got around to replacing the passenger side multiplexer (PSMU) in my quest to identify what was causing my key fob & toggle switch not to lock/unlock my ‘02’s driver’s side door. There, of course, has been considerable discussion at this site on the problem. Well, I bought one with supposedly low miles from a junkyard off of e-bay. I paid $60 vs. up to $200 new. Good news – it worked. I wanted to post some pictures from the job (wish they were better) plus a few tips. The best info on this site that I found was at this thread Power door lock actuators & security system especially an entry from rtw_travel. I will only try to add to his post as opposed to starting from scratch:


1) It would definitely be easier to access the unit after disconnecting all the plug-in wire connectors (5 or 6 I think; it’s a bunch). But, like much Honda wiring, they are tight and hard to get your fingers around in the confined space in which you will be working. Thus, I recommend trying the job first by leaving them connected.


2) One way to get more maneuverability is to remove the nut (picture B, nut already removed) that fastens to a threaded shaft which protrudes towards the driver’s side from some interior framing. Refer also to picture D for its location. By removing the nut (7/16” long socket) you can pull a metal wiring bracket (picture D) away from the lower area of the fuse housing. With that bracket out of the way you can twist the housing and the attached PMSU to a position where you can get at those 4 pesky clips that snap the PMSU to said housing (picture A). It’s still an effort to move things with all those heavy gauge wires fighting you but with patience you can do it.


3) Be prepared to possibly break/crack the fuse housing a bit in places as you try to unfasten those clips. The plastic is thin & small breakage can occur because you have to do some prying with a screwdriver. Certainly you should try to be as gentle as possible, but if you do crack some plastic, the good news is that I don’t think you need all 4 clips to hold the PMSU to the housing anyway. You will be connecting a tight electrical connector from the PMSU to the back of the housing which I think is sufficient. Plus, once you get the housing bolted back into place, there is really no room for the PMSU to back itself out of the housing. If you are so inclined, I think a cable tie will hold the two pieces together just fine.


4) In conclusion, if you have this driver’s door lock problem, odds are that it’s the PSMU, not the actuator. The latter, IMHO, is a bigger pain to replace than the PSMU and I have yet to read where a DIY’er has found the actuator to be the problem even though dealers and garages tend to default to it. Unfortunately, both the PMSU & actuator are electrical parts so most places won’t allow a return if you “open the packaging.” Thus, there seems to be no cheap & easy way to troubleshoot this issue; one has use the trial & error approach which may mean paying for a part that is not guilty. That said, even if one must buy both a PMSU and an actuator (only about $30 online) he still only has around 100 bucks invested. Compare that to the dealer and factor in the convenience of a working key fob and that amount doesn’t sound too bad.

mpsuC.jpg mpsuA.jpg mpsuB.jpg mpsud1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here I am responding to my own post. Guess that's a variation of talking to oneself ... maybe I should up the medication. Anyway, it strikes me as odd, but also encouraging, that no one has responded to this post, asked a question, offered a further tip, etc. It has had 126 views but only one reply (thanks Blake). Thus, maybe the burned trace is a fairly isolated ailment and I just happened to catch it. Actually, I hope that is true because I completed the multiplex replacement ... but I'm not looking forward to doing it again. I also wonder how the burned trace got fried in the first place. It is the first such incident for me and I have owned a bunch of components that have traces, like computer motherboards, etc. The unit is made by OKI, a reputable maker of lots of electronic stuff, like printers. I suspect that maybe the previous owner of my '02 had kids and perhaps the little tykes liked playing with the door lock toggle and worked it repeatedly till it overheated ... I dunno. Whatever, glad the majority of the Ody community only encounters a multiplex when they take in a movie at the neighborhood ten screen cinema.
 

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I've been following this post and had previously read the old thread about the same issue. My issue was the actuators. Thanks for the great and detailed write up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I posted a picture of the location of the unit in the thread above. I believe there are really only 3 possibilities: multiplex, actuator, wiring. You have tried the actuator so the next logical (& cheapest) step is to try another multiplex or fix the burned trace on yours if that's the problem. From what I have read, it's not likely to be a wiring problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Glad to hear success stories. I found a picture of the trace repair which shows clearly the two points where the new wire is soldered. I included my pic of the burned, non-repaired trace beside it for reference. I haven't repaired my backup PMSU yet but will soon. After seeing the repair pic, I wish I hadn't bought the used unit from the salvage yard (only $60 though) because the fix looks easier than I thought it would be. Oh well, having a backup may come in handy down the road since the door lock trace seems to be weaker than what it ought to be relative to the juice required to operate the door locks.

tracefix.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I got this job done. Found a friend with steadier hands than mine but I manned the camera. He found a one strand wire, and through trial & error, cut it to the right length. It must be bent as in the pics because to two contact points are offset. The tips of exposed wire are pretty critical because you don't want the same touching anything but their respective soldering points. He then used thin solder and gently applied it to the tip of his iron first & then quickly transferred the still melted solder to the proper point on the board. He used this method vs. trying to heat the point on the board first & then "wicking" the solder to that point (forgive my lack of official soldering lingo.) The soldering points are so tiny that he was afraid of overheating the board with the latter method. Anyway, it took him no more than 5 minutes - though slow & careful - & I think I could have done it myself, shakier hands & all. As I mentioned in other posts, I will not be testing this fix right away as I replaced this unit with a used one a couple of months ago & the replacement effort is fairly involved. Thus, this repaired unit is a backup. Hope this helps.


multsolderall.jpg
 

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Nice job. I'm definitely saving this thread for possible future use, should we encounter this problem.

OF
 

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ackack, You are A brilliant man, Thank you so much, especially for the pics, as I can now do the repair my self all thanks to you for making me more inclined to attempt this.
Now, I just have to sit with my cup of Hot Cocoa and meditate "Rain Rain Go Away..." So I can go out and fix my poor Ody.
Haha, Anyways, thanks again mate.
This should be handy for everyone with power door locks.:cheers:
 

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Hey ackack, THANKS! My 04 EX driver side door lock suddenly stopped working yesterday. I couldn't unlock or lock with the remote or door switch, but everything else worked fine. Turns out that exact same trace on the passenger side multiplexer burned out and soldering a replacement wire worked! I would never have figured this out if it weren't for your detailed instructions and pictures.

Thanks again!
Ken
 

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Thanks for this post. My drivers side isn't working so I just assumed actuator. Was about to purchase one to replace but I think I will do some testing first. Which is easier to remove for testing? The door panel or the multiplexer? I have the service manual. The rear hatch one stopped working as well but I tested it and it is dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Both the actuator & the multiplexer are tricky to remove & replace but I would say that the latter is a bit easier. I did first remove my actuator last summer & found that it tested okay. Putting it back was difficult because maneuvering behind the door with my big hands was tough. As I recall, there is a plastic cover that surrounds the actuator that is very hard to get lined up. I ended up altering it with my Dremel to make it easier. The usefulness of said cover is a bit of overkill on Honda's part, I believe, so the fact that I "cut it to fit" has been of no consequence as far as window function is concerned. I did take a picture of the cover surrounding the actuator (below) but not after I cut it. I must admit my memory fades about the details. There are several threads here on ways to remove, test, & replace the actuator. I think some members removed more "guts" behind the door to get better access but I elected not to go that route, being afraid I would never get all them lined up again.



By the way, I somehow missed the later posts here where others repaired their multiplexers based on my input. Glad to hear that it worked!
 

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Thanks alot for this info. You kept me from trial and erroring with countless parts and $$$. My trace was faulty. It had a gap in the continuity that was only visible with a magnifying glass. Just completed putting everything back together. BTW autozone stocks a 30W soldering iron for only $5.99 and rosin core for only $2.79 for small jobs. The 'other' auto parts stores did not stock anything for a small DIY job like this. Thanks again for the info...I really appreciate it. I just joined this forum about a week ago.
 

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Both Sliding door locks not working

Both of my sliding door locks stopped working at the same time. Do you think the mulit-plexer could be the culprit for this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sounds like it. Otherwise, it would be too coincidental that both sliding actuators would go at the same time. My problem was not sliders but the front driver's lock but I believe that the passenger side multiplex unit controls the sliding doors as well. Anyone out there who can confirm this?
 

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I've got to jump in with many many thanks for the photo of the trace as well. Like others, my 2004 EX driver's door lock failed. I jumped to the conclusion that it must be the actuator without doing any internet research. Spent $46 for the new actuator, followed the factory tech manual instructions and got it swapped out without too much hassle. But the lock still didn't work. That's when I started searching the internet and found this thread.

Before I tore into the passenger side kick panel, I wanted to make sure the wires into the driver door weren't the problem. The Factory manual, and the electrical troubleshooting manual helped me to figure out that one of the wiring connectors plugging into the driver's side fuse block carries the two wires going to the actuator in the door. If you have any of the manuals that name the plugs going into the driver's fuse block, the large green plug "G" is the one you want. Here's what you do:
Unplug plug G from the driver's fuse block. Locate terminals #1 and #4 on the connector that you just unplugged. One of the wires is white wire with red trace, the other is light green wire with red trace. You need to find a 12 volt power source either from the car or external (I used my trickle charger), and using alligator clips and small brads, I was able to supply 12v across terminals 1 and 4 in that connector, and it operates the driver's actuator. Reverse the polarity and it will go the other way. You just want to tap the juice, don't hold it. If that test is successful, you'll rule out a break in the wires from the door harness into the dashboard area. My wires tested out fine.

So I moved on to the passenger multiplex unit. Here is my step by step list for getting the passenger fuse block & multiplex out once you've pulled out the kickpanel trim -- didn't see anyone else providing these details, so here is my take on it:
1) unplug all the front connectors from the fuse block
2) unbolt bottom bolt from fuse block
3) the bolt you just removed from the bottom of the fuse block went through the block into a metal bracket that bends around and bolts to the frame of the car on a long stud. You need to remove that metal bracket as well -- takes a deep well 10mm socket to get the nut off the long stud. There are wires and connectors clipped to that bracket -- don't remove them, just let the bracket hang loose.
4) two choices: you can either unbolt the top of the fuse block (hard to get to -- up out of sight), or if you're deft, that top bracket actually clips to the fuse block and you can undo the clips instead of removing the bracket. There are two plastic tabs at the top of the block that unsnaps the block from the metal bracket -- push up on those two tabs and it'll slide off the bracket, saving you from having to get at that top bolt.
5) unplug the wiring connector that goes into the bottom of the fuse block -- this plug was hiding from view underneath the bottom bracket that you loosened. That connector actually goes directly into the multiplex unit.
6) pull the fuse block away from the wall, and unplug the four connectors from the back of it
7) you should now have the fuse block free, and you can then work at getting the multiplex unit unsnapped from the back of it -- there are two tabs on the bottom, and two on the top. The multiplex unit has a large wiring connector on its back side going directly into the fuse block, and it is very tight, making it very difficult to pry the multiplex unit out. You need to make sure that you remove the multiplex unit by pulling it straight out -- I pulled mine out at an angle and cracked some of the plastic around the hidden connector, but fortunately not so badly as to keep it from working. I recommend using a flat wide piece of steel, or a flat file, or something similar, to slide up from the bottom edge in between the multiplex and the fuse block, and slowly twist it while using other screwdrivers to hold the tabs open.
8) Once multiplex is free, you'll see the unit shell has two snaps on one side, two on the other side -- they pop pretty easily because the multiplex shell is not tightly sealed.
9) once shell is open, you can pull out the circuit board. Using the photo on this thread, you can find the trace.
10) on my trace, I saw no visual signs of damage whatsoever. But I tested between the terminals with my ohm meter and voila! It was open!!! So I used a fine-tip soldering iron and a small wire (probably 18 or 20 gauge), and was able to tack it into place without slopping solder on any of the other terminals. Got everything put back together and it works!

Just saved myself the cost of the multiplex thanks to everybody out there contributing to these forums!

Peace!
 

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A quick followup to my post from Feb of this year. My door locks recently started having issues intermittently again. I figured since a door lock motor should either work or not, and it works half the time, I'd order a new multiplexer. Well, I did and installed it, and no change. The driver door still wouldn't work. Doh! I ordered a new driver door lock actuator and installed it, expecting all to work, but nope ... I removed the "new" multiplexor and found that same trace burned out! So, FYI, a dying driver door lock actuator can be the cause of the burned out trace in the multiplexer. I "fixed" the new one by soldering in a wire to replace the trace and all is working very well now. Looking back, I had noticed the door lock had been opening and closing kind of slowly, when it worked. The new actuator unlocks/locks very quickly with a nice pop.
 

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Did the fix to the multiplexer and all is good, wife is happy because it works and I'm happy because it did not cost a ton of cash!
Thank you to everyone that wrote about this fix and posted pix. This was all a big help!
 
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