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Thanks to ackack, I managed to fix the door lock problem which started 5-6 years ago as per your instructions over the weekend. Saved a fair bit of cash from the need to buy the part & labor. The tricky part was to remove the unit but it was easier to reinstall the unit. No more having to use the key to open the door.
 

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Chicken or egg? Are some of these actuators "faulty" (and drawing too much current), or was the trace in the multiplexer undersized and can't handle off-nominal current loads that are within manufacturing tolerances? If the latter, then the white wire fix is potentially more appropriate than multiplexer replacement for those who experience problems as a slightly thicker wire may better handle the current load. If the former, then actuator replacement would seem to be appropriate corrective action when doing the white wire fix.
 

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Hi, yes, please re-read my post, #19 in this thread. I had "fixed" the multiplexor trace a few months ago, then started having intermittent problems again. It turns out the multiplexor was fine, and it was the driver door lock actuator to that failing in some way. Replacing the multiplexor (which turned out to be unnecessary) resulted in that trace immediately burning out. After the new actuator was installed, and the multiplexor trace fixed, all is fine. I tried both multiplexors (both with the trace fix) and they both work fine after the actuator was replaced.
 

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Just wanted to say thank you! i too had the actuator-multiplexor problem. Reading i bought and put in multiplexor first did not fix the problemm so i tackled the acuator, (could not have done without video i found on youtube). Still same issue locks worked when the driver was locked but if driver was open fob would not lock dorrs. I thought i did something wrong i did look on old multiplexor and could see where there was one burnt trace it actually kind of peels. Well i read on hear someone did in the same order as me and had the problems so, i ordered new multiplexor put in , guess what everything now works fine. I thing as someone else said the actuator actually burnt the multiplexor when i examined i did see same thing trace was burned and flaked. So everyone thanks and i wanted to let others know.
 

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Sorry but same problem here my two front door looks don't unlock/ lock I just replaced one of the door locks but still don't work :( but the strange thing is that the back back door one works and locks/unlocks was that one working for you guys when the multiplexor went bad ???? Or does only the two front doors stop working ???
 

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Discussion Starter #27
When you say "replaced door "lock," do you mean the actuator? That didn't work for me and others as the problem was the burned trace. I don't remember if the back door lock worked or not with the key fob before I replaced the multiplexor. If you have eliminated the actuator as the problem, I think your next step is to pull the passenger side multiplexor as described in this thread and check for the burned trace. If yours is burned (between circuit board points D18 and the solder point beside C50) then that's the reason your front door locks don't work with the fob. Since your back door lock works now, I am thinking that it must interact with the circuit board via its own separate trace.
 

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Sorry but same problem here my two front door looks don't unlock/ lock I just replaced one of the door locks but still don't work :( but the strange thing is that the back back door one works and locks/unlocks was that one working for you guys when the multiplexor went bad ???? Or does only the two front doors stop working ???
Ok update what happen was that the actual plug that plugs on the actuator one of the wire came off the plug it's self notice same thing happen to the other side plug well now my door locks work :)
 

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This old thread is still paying dividends. Had a similar issue with my '04 Odyssey. Pulled out the PMSU and found the burned out trace. Had a friend solder a wire and we're up and running again. Passenger actuator is out as well, but at least one issue solved for $0. Thanks to all who contributed!
 

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A BIG Thank You RTW_travel for your excellent directions
After checking for voltage at the actuator it was apparent that the fault was elsewhere.
I found the toasted trace on the circuit board leading from the relay to the connector.
Thanks for the suggestion, I never would have guessed that the driver's door lock would be connected to the Passenger side fuse block's backside, or that I could fix the circuit board.

I soldered a jumper onto the circuit board (maybe 15 minutes). The circuit board was amazingly easy to get out.
SUCCESS! (and it fixed all the other glitchy little stuff that was going on.)
When i came back here if found that dpsmith123 and ackack had pictures of my exact fix right down to the wire color.
I also thank 1aauto dot com for a nice video showing pulling the door panel. (although his was not nearly as stuck as mine. typical) And be sure to follow all of his little details. Some crucial moves were glossed over a little (like pushing the handle assembly forward before pulling it out. It takes only a gentle force if you do it right. I didn't, oops )

The problem occurred when I took my 2003 Odyssey EX in to a (not my normal) dealer for a minor maintenance and 2 recall procedures.
When I found the multiplexer, it's cover and clips were severely damaged with cover corners and clips broken off. Good luck getting them to own up to it, though.
"Oh, it's a coincidence" they said. Yeah Right. I think they shorted something.
If anyone wants more pictures I've got some. But dpsmith123's and ackack's pictures really show the heart of the matter.

Don't ever be afraid to solder in a jumper. The circuit board is already dead so go ahead and try it. (Just like they say in CPR class. Really! ) Just tin the wire with rosin core solder first and be very careful to avoid over heating any of the circuit board stuff. Only touch the hot iron to the pin on the board for 1/2 to 1 second at a time and blow on it to cool it off right away. I saved $140 with 15 minutes work. (Of course including the driver's door disassembly and wire tracing and internet searching it added up to a lot more than that in total.
From my long ago experience in designing circuit boards that trace is a good size for digital but not for power. It is driving a motor for heaven's sake. There is plenty enough board real estate for them to have made that trace at least 5 times wider and the same trace from the other relay (presumably to the passenger & sliding door locks.)

It is kind of interesting how these conversations span years of time.
I Wish Good Luck to all of you time travelers (in the only direction we mere humans can travel) who work this problem in the future.
 

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O.K. My 2004 ODY EX now has this problem. (passenger side door lock will not move up or down but the door still locks and unlocks). Will go do some trouble shooting and post the results.
 

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I just replaced the passenger door-lock actuator on our '04 EX-L. 1aauto has a video on Youtube that was easy for me to follow but I ended up unscrewing the door handle from the rod end because the plastic collar was deforming when I tried to pop the handle off the rod. Good luck with your troubleshooting and fix.
 

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Looked at the wife's ODY today and in fact the door lock knob was broke. Everything works electronically and manually with the exception of pulling the knob. Door panel needs to come off so will save for another day!
 

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This saved me a lot of money, I had the same problem of locking and unlocking my doors. The only way unlock to from the driver side door with key holding it in the unlock position for a minute. Then all the doors would unlock, and locking them was pushing the lock button and then just pushing the driver door lock down. At first I thought it was the driver side door actuator and took it off. When I looked the doors and then tried unlocking the driver door with my key the factory alarm went off. I had to go to the passenger door and unlock it with the key to shut the alarm off. So thats how I figured out that the actuator was fine. At this point my only option was multiplex, I followed the repaired diagram and did the repair. After putting it all together everything worked with a fast response. Thank you ackack for your valuable information, it saved me on my 03 Odyssey.
 

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This fix worked perfectly for me. I just used a section of 18 gauge wire just wide enough to fit between the terminals at each end of the trace. Tin the wire ends then have a little extra solder on the tip of the gun and dab it on the ends and viola you are done! Worked great thanks all.
 

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04EX-L Thanks guys, multiplexer fix of soldering wire across #18 to #50 worked. Track Not visibly burnt but read open with ohmmeter. Soldered in jumper and all locks work again. As the Master Card ad says, "You are priceless!"
 

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I just bought a 2004 Odyssey. The drivers side sliding door only locks intermittently with the key fob or by depressing the drivers door lock. I have to lock the sliding door from the inside, usually. Today, while I was driving, a light on the dash came on saying the driver's door was open. I closed it again when I stopped for a light. It closed tightly. The light came on again and I tried to lock the door but it wouldn't lock. Actually, I think all of the doors came unlocked at that point. Do you think this is an actuator issue or a multiplex issue or both? Do you have a suggestion about what should be replaced and in what order? Thanks so much!!
 

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I recently purchased a 1999 Odyssey, which was having some door lock issues. The drivers side front door wasn't unlocking or locking at all. Neither was the drivers side slider. The passengers side front door seemed to be intermittent. Passengers slider, and rear hatch both seemed to be working. I couldn't test the remote, as there were none with the van when we got it.

After reading so many posts here about the multiplexer on the passengers side, I suspected that first, and went ahead and tore into it. The unit looked fine, even under magnification. I saw no signs of damage to the trace, nor did I see any signs of a "cold" solder joint at either end of it.

I put the multiplexer back in, and bit the bullet, and bought a new actuator for the drivers front door. I was quite surprised when I got the new actuator in, and the door lock worked. Same held true for the drivers side slider, a new actuator got that working again as well. At the moment, the passengers side front door is also working, though I suspect that will fail shortly, as it has been working intermittently since we got the van.

I guess what I am saying here is . . .before you condemn the passengers side multiplexer, pull off one of your door skins, and check for voltage at the actuator. While it doesn't seem likely, it is possible for several of them to be bad at the same time.
 

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Just got done with this fix. Thanks for posting and thanks to whoever brought it back to the top recently. I might not have seen it otherwise. All in all, it took about a half hour total to get it fixed. It took longer to get it apart than it did to fix it and get it back together. Like the poster above me, there was no visual sign of a burnt trace. However, when I checked for continuity between the pins, there was none. It was open. I soldered a tinned jumper in there and all is working as it should. It's the first time the key fob has worked since we bought the van four or five years ago.
 
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