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In my 2001 LX, the passenger door will lock and unlock when the either the driver's door is unlocked with the key or when the either driver's lock button or interior lock/unlock switch is manipulated. It will also unlock when the lift gate is unlocked. However, when unlocking or locking the passengers door with the key or manipulating the passenger's button (the switch doesn't work) no other door is locked or unlocked. To me this doesn't sound like an actuator problem. Does this sound like the Multiplexer Unit?
 

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Hi everyone. Thanks for all the posts here. I had this problem. I went through and did all the steps described in these posts and made a video about it. Problem is I soldered the circuit board but when I was done I went from the power lock not working to when I used the lever it works but slowly. It won't pop up, it just slides up sometimes and other times it didn't work. If anyone has any idea why it would work like this please let me know. You can see what I'm talking about in the video. But at least, if anything, this video will show you how to do what is described in these posts. Hope it helps someone out there!

 

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The motor in your actuator is weak. In my case the motor will lock the door but slowly or not at all unlock the door. THANKS for posting the video!!!
 

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The motor in your actuator is weak. In my case the motor will lock the door but slowly or not at all unlock the door. THANKS for posting the video!!!
Grega, you are amazing man, that was exactly the problem. I said what the heck, bought an actuator off eBay for 8 bucks, put it in, and now the lock is working perfectly so I had to end up replacing the actuator and soldering the multiplexer to get it to work the way it should. I decided to make a video of this process as well showing how to replace the actuator. At the beginning of both the videos I did, there are links that will allow you to get to the other one no matter which one you're watching. Thanks for the help everyone, I love odyclub :) Here's the vid:

 

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I have similar symptoms on my 2002 EX. Neither the FOB nor the switch will unlock the Driver's side door. Interestingly, the driver's side switch will unlock the Driver's side slider door lock. Anyway, I decided to pull the multiplexor (thanks everyone for the info on how to do that) but I found I have continuity between the contacts that many of you have soldered the jumper to. But I did find a burn mark on the multiplexor card under the white connector near the D23 terminal. This is right below where the yellow marks on the white connector are on many of the photos. I am guessing I should replace the multiplexor unless somebody has any better suggestion. Has anybody found a reasonable source for the multiplexor? Thank you again
 

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+1 on the soldering fix! Symptom: driver side door wouldn't (un)lock with fob or switch. All other doors worked normally. I didn't bother checking the actuator - went straight to the multiplex, tested for continuity on the two points and sure enough, there was the problem. Thanks everyone!
 

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Thanks to all for the detailed instructions, pics, advice. Ditto to the same symptoms, drivers side door wouldn't unlock with fob, only key. Went right to multiplexer since sounded easier to remove. 1st time doing it was harder than I thought as some electrical plugs didn't come off easy. Sure enough, same burnt line on circuit board. I soldered new wire but wasn't satisfied with finished product but thought "What the heck?" Assembled back together & worked! Again, not sure how long solder job will last. Might buy multiplexer any way if not too expensive. Worked in unheated garage, outside temps in teens, a bit chilly.
 

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Success!

Add my thanks to this as well. New driver's side actuator installed, locks still not working. Pulled module, kinda destroying gray plastic around it in the process but not caring. Jumper installed, fully reassembled and fully functional in under two and a half hours. LOVE this forum!!!
 

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A big thank you to the contributors to this thread. Just saved me lotsa bucks and hassle. Changed my '03 Ody driver's side actuator this morning, no joy. Cursed and swore a bit, hit google, and less than 2 hours later my locks are working with a bit of solder and 1" of wire.
 

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I thought Honda's were good cars. The 2004 Odyssey is my second Honda. The 1992 Accord was my first. Both were purchased new at the dealer.

Kudos to the folks who isolated this failure and found the repair solution. It saved me hundreds. My 2004 Odyssey had 59K miles, a baby, when this problem occurred. What caused this failure was when all four doors were opened at the same time when the car was locked. I worked in the field of designing electronics and I have never seen a failure like this. Given the combination of a harsh automobile environment, Hours of Operation ( MTBF ), Over Current draw from the actuator and the poorly designed wire run ( TRACE ) all contributed to this failure. The wire run ( TRACE ) is coming from a Relay to the connector that goes to the Driver Side Door Actuator. You only use a RELAY when there is a high current draw. I would guess that it is the Output Relay for the Driver Side Door Actuator. An over current condition occurred that required the TRACE to handle more current that it could handle. A suitable design solution in the beginning would have been to make the TRACE wider!!! Wire Gauge ( AWG ) is actually determined by how much current it can handle before burning up, that is what happened here. If the trace actually sends power the actuator or just sends open / close signals to the actuator should have been considered.

Thank you everyone
 

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ackack, I actually found your post in a roundabout way. I was looking on YouTube for another issue, then decided to search for this one and the guy mentioned he found the answer on this forum. I've been a forum member here for years. If I had searched here for this before, I probably didn't use the correct search words. My actuator went kaput back in February. Yes, it was a real bear getting to that thing. I actually broke part of the external handle getting it out, but got a very inexpensive replacement from RockAuto.com. Anyway, I knew the new actuator worked just fine because it worked perfectly when connecting it to a battery. I knew the power lock issue was not related and that I hadn't done anything to destroy the door wiring. I spoke with a friend who is a mechanic at a Cadillac dealership (he owns a couple of Hondas) and he thought it was a wiring issue in the door. I knew it couldn't be in the door. I am so glad I found your post today. I pulled my PSMU and that circuit you showed was fried. The jumper wire fixed it! Thank you so much for your diligence in putting this post together! I am very pleased and grateful! My Odyssey is a 2004 model with 207,300 miles on it. Still going strong.
 

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I think I might be plagued with this as well but want your guys opinion. I recently bought my 04 EX-L 160k with no aftermarket alarm so I think I'm good there.The Front doors click but dont lock or unlock with the fob or switch. The drivers slider locks but doesn't unlock. I think I'm on the right track to go after this first as I doubt I have three bad actuators. I just dont like how it seems like the defective doors are trying to work.
 

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I think I might be plagued with this as well but want your guys opinion. I recently bought my 04 EX-L 160k with no aftermarket alarm so I think I'm good there.The Front doors click but dont lock or unlock with the fob or switch. The drivers slider locks but doesn't unlock. I think I'm on the right track to go after this first as I doubt I have three bad actuators. I just dont like how it seems like the defective doors are trying to work.
Well this didn't work. I went and found two more multiplexers from a salvage yard and looked them over. One was from 2002 base but did have power sliding doors the other from a 2004. The 2004 I could see the trace burnt where we are jumping. I pulled mine and it looked fine and tested ok with the multi-meter so I was kind of disappointed. I still added the jumper but to no avail the same result. So where should I look next? Actuators? I dont think that is my answer because I can use the remote and the parking lights flash only on unlock but nothing on lock. Anybody have any idea??
 

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Mr2nr15,

Since you have done the PSMU fix I would try replacing one of the suspect actuators and see if it fixes that lock. I replaced both slider door lock actuators about 6 years ago on my 2004 Ody and they have stayed fixed. I replaced the driver door actuator last year and then did the PSMU fix when I realized the new actuator didn't solve that issue. The fact that you are getting some movement/noise of the actuators makes me think the actuators are bad.
 

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This passenger side multiplex fixed my driver door lock issue. I purchased one online and swapped it in and bingo, back in action!

with that said, I am not good at doing to solder hotfix. Ill have my older one for sale if anybody is interested. Feel free to PM me if you are interested.

thank you forum members for this tip!
 

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Hello, When I press the unlock/lock button inside the car the locks do nothing. When I push the remote to do it it does the same nothing. When I manually push one down it goes down and locks just that door but nothing else. Now when I hit the lock and unlock button the back hatch door unlocks and locks. Any ideals here ?? I have checked fuses and seems all to me ok. Can seems to figure this one out.. 2004 Honda Odyssey EX
 

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If a guy had an 01 EX and wanted to go to pick a part and grab a multiplex to have as a spare would he have to get one out of an EX ?

what year models odyssey (accord?) could he look for to get correct multiplexer or an 01EX

will a LX Multiplexer work on EX.
 

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The LX models did not come with keyless entry. I added the factory keyless to my 2003 and it had a separate box that came with it. I would make sure to use parts for an EX if you have an EX. The LX keyless was basically the one for an Accord. EX keyless includes the sliding doors.
 
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