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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bought a 1995 for $350 this summer with 345k.

It had been used for newspaper deliverys and was extremely dirty inside and out. The right front vent window was broken out, it leaked oil from every part of the engine that you could imagine, most of the shift position lights didn't work. It made lots of clunking noises when driving but drove okay and shifted through all the gears, though shifts were slow, i think mostly because it was shifting hydraulicly only because the TCM didn't know it was even in drive. Drivers seat was broken, had to take it apart and weld it. Ran smooth and didn't smoke at all. It had already gotten new radiator, coolant hoses, brake pads and rotors sometime in the year before i bought it.

I cleaned it out, pulled the engine/trans, fully rebuilt the trans with new differential bearings: they had spun in the bores and on the carrier, had to do some machine work on my mill to the case. Made a new cast iron bushing for the stator support, bored the old one out of the valve body and loctited the new one in with retaining compound, then bored to size. No other bearings needed replaced, all clutches were still okay, though a couple packs were barely out of spec. All new frictions and steels were installed. All the gears looked perfect. It's the most well built auto i've ever worked on.

Before i pulled the engine i got it up to operating temp and checked the compression. 180-185psi on all 4 cylinders(this might be slightly high because of my gage, but compression is def good and even).

Completely resealed the engine, adjusted the valves, replaced the water pump, timing and balancer belts and pulleys, checked out the oil pump which is in excellent condition, new cap, rotor, plugs(old ones probably had 200k on them), thermostat, iat sensor, air filter, fuel filter. Front and rear engine mounts were totally gone so i replaced them.

Installed the engine, started easily after cranking for a bit with the dizzy disconnected in order to prime the oil system. No check engine light, SRS light, or ABS light.

Replaced one inner and one outer TRE. One upper ball join, one lower. New KYB's all around. New outer lower control arm bushing in the front and rear. Had to replace the left rear ABS sensor after i broke it while removing it to replace the bushing in the knuckle, $120 mistake:( Adjusted the steering rack to remove play.

New studded tires, replaced a bunch of dash bulbs, drivers window switch, new cupholder, fixed corroded connector for the lockup solenoid, new battery negative cable(had over 200 ohms between batter neg terminal and the engine/trans!), which fixed the trans faults.

Have put almost 200 miles on it so far. It handles very good and steers like a new car. The only complaint is that I think the rear swaybar is too weak. I don't see any aftermarket offerings so I might build a custom one from 4130, bend to shape, weld on proper ends, and have it heat treated. I have lots of projects though so this isn't a high priority atm. Ran injector cleaner through the first 1/2 tank, and filled it again. Dont have any good MPG numbers yet but i think it's at least getting 24/25 with mixed driving.

New TPS and O2 sensor on the way, and plans to get the injectors cleaned and flow tested. Need 3rd row seat headrests, drivers inner door panel.

Plan to do the civic glass sunroof mod, get some newer alloy rims, probably oem honda or acura with good summer tires, and possibly fix the roof paint where the clearcoat is failing.

I hope to see it hit 450k miles without any engine work, but won't be too disappointed if the engine fails at any time, though i have no reason to believe it will. If it does i'll either rebuild it, or swap in a JDM f22b6.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So far I have $3200 into it, including purchase, parts, registration, and new tires. Will probably have $4k by the time i get the new wheels and summer tires. Well worth it as it should be a good car for a long time in the future.
 

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Someone who has done all of that work deserved a "well done."

So, well done!

edit: I have a question though, do you happen to know of any front wheel bearing hub pressing tools that would do the job good without killing myself with hammers and chisels?
 

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edit: I have a question though, do you happen to know of any front wheel bearing hub pressing tools that would do the job good without killing myself with hammers and chisels?
To remove the wheel bearing from the hub? I haven't done it before on an odyssey or any other vehicle that has that type of setup. The FSM shows using a press, which is what I would do.

It looks like you can fairly easily remove the hub and bearing as an assembly, then anyone with a press and bearing separator should be able to remove the old bearing and press in a new one in a few minutes. A lot of tire shops, mechanics, or machine shops will have the equipment and can probably do it for you for not too much money, or find a friend/forum member that has the tools. If you are into working on your own stuff a lot you can probably buy a small press and bearing separator for less than $200. My press is one of the most used tools in my shop. Make sure to only press on the inner race of the new bearing when installing it, otherwise you can ruin the bearing by pressing through the rollers.
 

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Wow, newellm, thanks for the detailed post and for sharing all of that. I am quite amazed at the durability of the trannys on these vans.
 

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I am quite amazed at the durability of the trannys on these vans.
Yeah, me too. It's because they are built more like a manual transmission than a typical auto. All of the shafts are supported at each end by a ball or cylindrical roller bearing. All of the thrust bearings are rollers, instead of simple thrust washers. All of the gears are hylical except the reverse gears, which see relatively little use and lower speeds. There are no planetary assemblies at all, unlike most autos.

Also it is my understanding that the first gen odysseys along with all earlier honda autos are not designed to allow any significant clutch slippage during gear changes, which allows the clutches to last an amazing amount of miles.

I've heard that a large part of the problem with the newer ones that experience more failures is that they changed the design to allow a lot more slippage in order to make the shifts more transparent. If someone could reverse engineer the ECU's on the new ones and increase shift firmness it might allow them to live a lot longer. This is mostly speculation though as I don't have an personal experience with them.

The other autos I've worked on all rely on plain bearings(bronze/babbit or other types of bushings) extensively. A plain bearing can be an extremely long lasting bearing under the right circumstances, such as the main bearing in an engine, however it's obvious that in most auto transmission designs the fluid layer between the bearing and the shaft is routinely broken and contact is made, causing wear that eventually can cause failure. My 2001 Volvo S60 failed because a bushing came out of it's bore, causing cascading failures, which is a common issue for those units. The odyssey's transmission only has that one plain bearing, and the stator support shaft that rides in it doesn't spin like most shafts, it simply moves back and forth a few degrees in relation to the load put through the torque converter. It only actually had .0035 of wear, but that was enough to allow the mainshaft to become canted enough that it was coming into contact with the "regulator valve body", so i decided to renew it, although it would have likely ran fine as is.
 

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newellm, I have a question for you and Overboostin. My Ody is a '95. I am wanting to quit buying the Honda ATF Z-1. What do you recommend I use instead? My manual states I can just use Dexron II/III. I would like to just use a good quality Dexron or should I go with something like Castrol ATF Import Multi-Vehicle that states it is compatible with Honda Z-1? Thanks!
 

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I am wanting to quit buying the Honda ATF Z-1. What do you recommend I use instead?
I just used NAPA's in house brand that is Dexron compatible. There's nothing I can think of in these transmissions that require anything special in the fluid. Any fluid will transmit fluid pressure, and the only other requirements are lubrication and heat transfer. Since these transmission seem to be fairly cool running I don't think they break the fluid down very rapidly, and since they use almost exclusively roller bearings, there isn't a great need for any high pressure additives. I would stay away from anything really cheap like the stuff they sell in the blue bottle at walmart, because it seems to have lower visocity than other fluids. All in all I think it's better to change the fluid every 50k miles or so than to use an expensive fluid. And if you plan on towing or doing lots of mountain driving that generates a lot more heat in the torque converter, then you should probably add an auxilery cooler.
 

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Thanks, newellm, that helps a lot. I will go with a good quality Dexron from now on. I like to do a drain and refill of the tranny fluid about every 10K miles. It is just so easy to do. And where I live it is hard on my cars as everywhere I go is within 1-5 miles. I have used the Honda Z-1 for the last 100k miles and I probably spent a lot more for fluid than I needed to.
 

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Wow! You did a great job!:DD She should last at least to 400K (in my opinion).
 

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I have a thread on here "98 Odyssey for parts" Its gold with beige interior. I don't have the drivers inner door panel, but I have allot of the interior left, and its clean. I f you need anything to complete your project, let me know. [email protected] Steve
 
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