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Just picked up a 2006 odyssey touring, that needed a little tender love and care. One of the first things was to fix the brakes because rotors were warped and would shake very badly under moderate braking. So I ordered the following from tirerack.

1x Akebono pro-act ceramic pads In Stock $47.00
2x Centric premium rotor In Stock $104.00
1x Akebono pro-act ceramic pads In Stock $42.00
2x Centric premium rotor In Stock $82.00

So went to install the front brakes last night and had a lot of fun. I did stop by honda and get 8 new rotor screws to replace old ones. All was fine until I went to remove the seized rotor screws. I did not have a hand impact driver with #2 phillips. So I could not get a single screw out unless I wanted to drill them out. So I drove to sears and got a hand impact driver. I was then able to get 3 of the 4 screws out. I ended up drilling out one screw and re-threading it. I coated everything w/ anti-seize and so now everything should come apart easily. Everything is tightened down to spec now. It was fairly easy if you have the tools but be prepared if you purchase a used odyssey that you might have to drill some of the screws out. Coming from BMW that has a hex rotor screw which usually comes out and you can get some leverage on. Honda needs to do away with the phillips screw period the end. WTF... Honda

So anyways the front is done and no more shaking. Doing the rear tonight. I still have transmission fluid change, oil change, plugs, trailer hitch w/ harness, serpentine V belt, and coolant flush to do. I also have depax on order. Those damn pax rim/tire is one heavy mother. I bet the depax 17 I am getting will save some weight. I bet it will handle better, brake better and fuel mileage will increase. I have to say it again WTF.... Honda.

I also want to say thank you to all who have posted DIY on this forum. Very useful and saves you a lot of time and $$$. I have been trolling around searching and reading and looking at all the DIYs and fixes for the particular problems I have. I have been doing BMW's for years and posting DIY on m3forum. You can really save yourself a lot of money by using a forum and not giving the money to the stealer. You also get a good piece of mind because you know it is done right and not some idiot with an impact gun putting everything on so tight that king kong could not get it off.

thanks again... Hope to share some of my knowledge out here but it looks like everyone here has a good handle on fixing the Honda Odyssey.
 

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I think you'll like the Centric premium rotors, did you get them from Amazon?

Although you won't need it for a long time, (or not at all, since they're anti-seized) you can get a "Great Neck" impact screwdriver from Auto Zone for like $8...IIRC.
 

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I'm new here too. Been looking at lots of the DIY posts. We just got our van on Friday. Doesn't need brakes, but I've done brakes on our BMW before and didn't have a problem getting the rotors off.

Started doing some overdue maintenance on the van. I've done 2 transmission drain and fills and will do another this evening. Previous owner put 10W30 in the engine so I drain it to put in 5W20 and pulled a good one and stripped the threads in the oil pan. I was under the van so I couldn't throw the ratchet so all I could do was cuss. A nice $570 mistake. But the threads had been stripped before and it had a self-tapping oversized plug, so there wasn't much bite left in the threads anyway, so I convinced myself it wasn't my fault.

Transmission fluid is a piece of cake. I use a medium funnel into a very small funnel into the dip stick tube for the fills. I heard the fill plug is tough to break loose so I didn't even bother. The drain plug took a bit of omph to break loose though.

I'll be looking to these forums for plugs and brakes when the time comes. When I get the van back this afternoon I'm starting on installing a roof-mount DVD player.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That is total sh!t. I will throw a wrench for you. I would like to kick that moron in the A$$ for stripping the drain plug. WOW!!! I am changing oil tonight I hope I do not have the same problem. In the bmw world you have to be very careful with oil drain plug too, soft metal. I have heard of many stories of people screwing up drain plug on bmw's. Thats one reason I do my oil changes. Always have and always will until I need a wheel chair.
I'm new here too. Been looking at lots of the DIY posts. We just got our van on Friday. Doesn't need brakes, but I've done brakes on our BMW before and didn't have a problem getting the rotors off.

Started doing some overdue maintenance on the van. I've done 2 transmission drain and fills and will do another this evening. Previous owner put 10W30 in the engine so I drain it to put in 5W20 and pulled a good one and stripped the threads in the oil pan. I was under the van so I couldn't throw the ratchet so all I could do was cuss. A nice $570 mistake. But the threads had been stripped before and it had a self-tapping oversized plug, so there wasn't much bite left in the threads anyway, so I convinced myself it wasn't my fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think you'll like the Centric premium rotors, did you get them from Amazon?

Although you won't need it for a long time, (or not at all, since they're anti-seized) you can get a "Great Neck" impact screwdriver from Auto Zone for like $8...IIRC.
Got rotors and pads at tirerack. I got everything from tirerack because no sales tax. I had to pay sales tax at amazon so it drove the cost up. It was cheaper to get the whole order from tirerack.

Went to autozone, advanced auto parts, lowes and none of them had impact screwdriver. I then went to sears as last effort. Car was on jack stands so I wanted to get it down ASAP. You can never have too many tools. :)
 

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man... I haven't had an impact screw driver since I was working on my motor cycle when I was 16... (was a while ago...) sucks the screws were stripped...
 

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Before I strip the drain plug, I may replace it with a Fumoto valve.,

Has anyone else used these?

Pop
 

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Welcome! You may want to check your engine mounts and see if the brake master cyl recall was done, rear shock inspection. I finally got my '06 back running good after the AC clutch bearing went out. Suggest the harbor freight or Autozone OEM serpentine belt tool for your '06 tour and remember its a slow release on the tension its hydraulic. I'm also thinking of putting on a hitch before our summer road trip in a few weeks for bike rack.
 

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Before I strip the drain plug, I may replace it with a Fumoto valve...Pop
If you follow this DIY, you will never strip the drain plug. I use the "5:30 ---> 7:00 trick" when tightening the drain plug, zero issues in many cars in 25 years:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/14-pe...ssey-engine-oil-change-made-sweet-simple.html

---------

Daniel Cox,

The Front and Rear Brake DIY was already discussed here. Personally I use Autozone brake pads because they are warranted for life:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-20...diy-2007-honda-odyssey-front-brake-rotor.html
 

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Before I strip the drain plug, I may replace it with a Fumoto valve.,

Has anyone else used these?

Pop
I have one on my '05 Ody, later years had fitment issues. Search on this forum for more details.
I love Fumoto valve.
Max
 

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Stripped Ody oil pan plugs are so common around here, I kept the NAPA part number for the oversized plug in my phone for quick reference.

Many quickie oil change places use crack/meth heads in the pit, that's the only place they can work without scaring away the customers.

= O

NAPA 704-1362
 

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Discussion Starter #13
update on rear brakes/rotors

Did the rear brakes/rotors yesterday. Had a very hard time getting the damn lugs off the pax tires. I actually had to heat 6 of the 10 lugs up with a torch to get them off w/ my impact gun. Crazy... I wonder who put the damn things on or were they just seized from the winter. No idea but anyways fixed now. Rear brakes/rotors went on easily. The rotor screws came out easily and anti-seize has been added to all bolts and screws before installation. I did some research and many people never put the rotor screws back in. I think next time I might do that but doing things like that always worry me. I did an inspection of the shocks and I think one is leaking. I am headed this evening to get the monroe shocks and 6 x ngk plugs from advanced autoparts. I should have rears shocks done this evening. Looks very easy. I almost forgot I did the oil change w/ Mobil 5w20 and honda oil filter w/ new washer. That was easy.

So tonight my plans are as follows.

New rear monroe shocks
transmission drain and fill w/ 3.3 quarts of honda fluid
maybe spark plugs? Depending on time...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update on diy on new to me 2006 odyssey

I got my new depax setup from Mike Tran at Acurahondaoem. I went with the 17 inch rims because of available tires and I think the ride will be better than 18 or 19 inch.

Did rear shocks w/ monroe sensa shock from Advanced auto parts. That was a super easy install. I also did the 3 x drain fill of transmission fluid w/ oem. This was also very easy. I put the transmission fluid in via the dip stick tube w/ a turkey baster and an extra long funnel from wal-mart. I drove a day changed and repeated the process 3 days in a row. No issues.

I was also experiencing a drone at 2100 rpms when accelerating and just cruising on the interstate. It was quite annoying. Did some searching on this forum and it appears there was 2 tsb's on this. One tsb called to replace the a-pipe and some rubber exhaust hangers. Another one called to replace the rear engine mount. I took a gamble and just replaced the following part 18215-S0X-A01 RUBBER, EX. MOUNTING. This made a huge difference. This part appears to have been redesigned. For $10 it was worth a try. I am very pleased now. Replacing the a-pipe might make it better but that is more $$$ than I want to spend. I am very satisfied now.

Yesterday I started the OEM hitch install and it was a real PITA. Everything was easy expect getting the bolts for the hitch to go into the holes on the frame(unibody). The 6 holes had rust and everything else a 94000 mile odyssey would have that has been driven on salty roads. I cleaned the holes out w/ a drimmel wire brush and they still would not go all the way in. So I had to revert to using the old impact gun. So here was my process 25-35 times per bolt.

1. Thread bolt with finger
2. Take impact gun and drive it until it is not moving
3. Now remove with impact gun
4. Clean out with WD-40 or PB-Blaster. I used both and WD-40 worked just as good and cheaper.
5. Repeat this process until you can get the damn thing to go all the way.

FYI... It took 2+ hours to do this. You just need patience and make sure you thread the bolt by hand. Be careful and do not you use the impact gun to start the bolt you might cross thread. All 6 of mine are now perfect and installed with anti-seize.

After all 6 bolts were good the rest of the install went easy. I still have to put the transmission and power-steering cooler in. I can not imagine that is difficult.

The odyssey is at the dealer today for the recall on the master cylinder and alignment.

Still have plugs to install. That should be it until timing belt needs changing at 105,000.
 

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replaced rotor and pads on 2004 odyssey

Just finished rotors (ATE premium one) and Akebono Pro Act Ceramic pads on my 2004.

Factory rotors where severly rusted on the inside surface. Its like the rust brake ridge the normally forms just on the boundry of where the pads touch the rotor has spreat to cover 2/3rs of the rotor surface.


Applied anti sieze 1 week after I bought my van so the rotor screws came out without too much trouble, used a small butterfly impact wrench and a phillips bit.

Used the factory recommended 8X1.25 bolts to push the rotor away from the hub, worked like a charm. applied more anti seize between the hub an new rotor for added insurance.

Used Permatex extreme Ceramic brake lube on the backs of the pads, much better and should last the life of the pads unlike the small tube of moly lube the OEM pads come with. Used a small coat on the brake pad slide points as well.

Amazon.com: Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Lubricant - 8 oz.: Automotive


only about 100 miles on the combo so far but its dead silent and smooth.
 

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Where do u get the 8x 1.25 bolts?
try Sears, Home Depot, Lowes or Ace hardware.
You could also try any autoparts store Advance Auto, Autozone, Pepboys.
All have hardware bolts and nuts sections. You are looking for metric bolts.
 

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FYI, the rotor screws on most vehicles are not something that you need to replace. They are there to hold the rotors on at the factory before the caliper brackets and calipers are installed which then hold the rotors in place. Once the wheel is secured with the lug nuts, the rotor is just the meat in the sandwich and doesn't need some small screws to do anything functionally.
Once I change the brakes the first time on a newer vehicle, those screws 'disappear' and it's never caused a single problem on my vehicles or anyone I know on many, many forums that have done it as well.
 
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