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Discussion Starter #1
Finally gave up waiting for someone to sell a rear sway bar for my 2002 Ody and decided to make my own.
It makes the van feel far less front heavy and flatter in corners. All good but could be better.
I decided to start with a smallish 11/16 dia. bar off of a Ford I already had on hand but think I'll go to a 1-1/8 dia bar for the same application.
 

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I think this is a first among street Odys. Well done, Aadvaark.

I'd thought of doing this, but was worried about the thin sheet metal in the luggage well being able to handle the loads. Did you weld in a "beef up plate" of any sort, or just use big fender washers?

Off-topic...what is your signature's "Aaardvark" reverse vent window mod?

OF

Edit: disregard last question. Searched (duh). Found it: Aardvark's Vent Window Switch Mod
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I think this is a first among street Odys. Well done, Aadvaark.

I'd thought of doing this, but was worried about the thin sheet metal in the luggage well being able to handle the loads. Did you weld in a "beef up plate" of any sort, or just use big fender washers?

Off-topic...what is your signature's "Aaardvark" reverse vent window mod?

OF

Edit: disregard last question. Searched (duh). Found it: Aardvark's Vent Window Switch Mod
The rear well floor is stiffer then you might imagine because of the stiffening ridges and proximity to the vertical wall. Plus I did use large washers and plates on both sides of the sheet metal.
I'm going to post a few more pics that may answer some questions and also show revisions to the end links for greater ground clearance. It still works great after going for a spin this morning.
Now I'm not sure I want to drop $250 more into a much thicker bar. 1-1/8 may be over doing it. As long as the eye to eye distance is around 44.5 inches about any ifs front bar should work that is fairly flat.

Got to look around under more cars and trucks. Ha!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A few more pics of the Aardvaark RSB.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Discussion Starter #6
FYI. The old Lower bar 11/16 dia. is the one I used on the Ody rear. Middle bar is the one I replaced it with on the front of my 1963 Thunderbird. Front 1-1/8 Dia.
The top bar 1 dia is the Thunderbird newly added rear bar.
 

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Nicely done!
Jerry O.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Aardvaark II Rear sway bar:
Decided to try a 1.06 Dia. solid bar off of a 1998-2001 Ford Ranger Pickup 2WD front. It's about 5x as stiff as the first .688 Dia Thunderbird bar after adding the
one inch arm extensions. 1.06 bar approx 585 lbs.inch of deflection vs. 108 lbs/in for the .688 bar. Using the http://www.auto-ware.com/calcs/swaybar.htm rate calculator. Good for comparing bars but not really terribly accurate for calculating exact rates of sway bars since it assumes a few too many things.

All I can say is wow! What an improvement. The small bar helped allot but this 1.06 D bar really make the Ody feel much lighter on it's feet and turns in
like right now. I even got the back end to begin to break loose on one particularly sharp right hand off camber corner that doubles back on itself a bit. Whee! :)
Based on my past road racing and autocrossing experience, this is about as stiff of a RSB as mine needs for the street on street tires.
Now my Ody needs a racing lap belt for the driver at least. :D

Too bad Addco or somebody doesn't do a kit. The second gen Ody is pretty easy being all bolt on and looking at the rear lower control arms of the 3rd and 4th gen Odys I don't think
they would be too difficult to come up with a sway bar mount end link mount for them either.

Btw. I looked under a all new platform 2014 MDX this weekend and it had what looked like a 1-1/4 D tubular rear sway bar out back of the rear suspension much like the 2013 MDX old platform.
Perhaps the 5th gen Ody will get the new platform and a rear sway bar finally???
 

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The AirLifts still work nicely on the later models. They, too, add instant turn-in response. Again, nice job!
JerryO.
 

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'Vark, you ARE the man! Forget all those guys with stickers plastered all over their Cavalier Z24's and Civic DX Sedans...you are a true tuner, trying out the different bar iterations to get a balanced platform.

1.06 Dia. solid bar off of a 1998-2001 Ford Ranger Pickup 2WD front. Got it. Did you use the Ford Ranger bar mounts? Are they poly or just plain rubber?

This gives me the courage to possibly give it a try after I do the other stuff that needs to get done on the front end (new struts, tie rod ends, strut top bearings, front anti-sway bar end links, LCA bushings). I have Pirelli Scorpion Verde 235/50-18's and the tires' dry grip greatly exceeds the suspension's capabilities, even with Monroe Sensa-Tracs (w/ helper springs) and AirLifts in the back.

OF
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
'Vark, you ARE the man! Forget all those guys with stickers plastered all over their Cavalier Z24's and Civic DX Sedans...you are a true tuner, trying out the different bar iterations to get a balanced platform.

1.06 Dia. solid bar off of a 1998-2001 Ford Ranger Pickup 2WD front. Got it. Did you use the Ford Ranger bar mounts? Are they poly or just plain rubber?

This gives me the courage to possibly give it a try after I do the other stuff that needs to get done on the front end (new struts, tie rod ends, strut top bearings, front anti-sway bar end links, LCA bushings). I have Pirelli Scorpion Verde 235/50-18's and the tires' dry grip greatly exceeds the suspension's capabilities, even with Monroe Sensa-Tracs (w/ helper springs) and AirLifts in the back.

OF
After much crawling on the ground under promising vehicles I bought the Ranger bar (Hollander interchange number 524-00310 solid version) off of ebay and it included the stock Ford bushings Poly in good condition and brackets for less the $50 delivered. I could have gotten one for $35 plus state tax about 30 miles away but decided to get it off of ebay since time wasn't an issue. Several were available. Everything else came from the Hardware Departments.

If you do decide to try the rear bar e-mail me and I'll give you the dimensions of my fairly easy to make clamp on control arm brackets and any other info you want for the 1999-2004 Odys.

Decided to fab up some washer plates for the well floor just to be safe although most of the force is torsional in the bar some is exerted onto the floor. Pic:
 

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Thanks. I never would have thought up a handy way to attach it to the control arm in the way you did it.

I just noticed you have an Opel Manta. Haven't seen one of those in ages. Are you still driving it?


OF
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks. I never would have thought up a handy way to attach it to the control arm in the way you did it.

I just noticed you have an Opel Manta. Haven't seen one of those in ages. Are you still driving it?


OF
Yes. At the end of the month I'm driving it to Springfield, Il for a get together with other Opel owners at the Rt66 car show. It's in pretty good all original shape with about 52K miles but
is being prepped to be repainted over the winter just to freshen it up. We have a very active Opel owners community over at opelgt.com and get together often around the country.

On my control arm mount. I designed machinery for the meat packing industry before retiring and still enjoy solving design problems and fabricating parts. Wanting to keep the sway bar design
simple and easy to fabricate was my goal. Only used my Sawzall, bench vise, small drill press and bench grinder in my garage to make the parts from hardware store steel.
The 15 degree bend in the lower control arm plates for better link alignment wasn't really necessary but since I have a 20 ton hydraulic press I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Short one year report.
My rear bar has been on for over one year and about 10K miles and so far everything is great. At this point I wouldn't change a thing.
 

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Wow that's sweet. We need someone to fab one for the 4th gen vans now!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looking at pictures of 2011- on Odyssey rear suspension it doesn't look any harder to do then my 2nd gen was. Looks like the hole in the center of the lower spring pocket is made to order
for a RSB bracket attachment. And the floor of the rear seat well looks about the same as mine. Probably the same Ford Ranger front bar could be used. Just takes somebody handy
with tools and some simple fabrication with flat steel bars from the hardware store. Jmo.
 

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Rear Sway bar

After much crawling on the ground under promising vehicles I bought the Ranger bar (Hollander interchange number 524-00310 solid version) off of ebay and it included the stock Ford bushings Poly in good condition and brackets for less the $50 delivered. I could have gotten one for $35 plus state tax about 30 miles away but decided to get it off of ebay since time wasn't an issue. Several were available. Everything else came from the Hardware Departments.

If you do decide to try the rear bar e-mail me and I'll give you the dimensions of my fairly easy to make clamp on control arm brackets and any other info you want for the 1999-2004 Odys.

Decided to fab up some washer plates for the well floor just to be safe although most of the force is torsional in the bar some is exerted onto the floor. Pic:

AWESOME job, Aardvark!! Why did you put the end of the swaybar below the suspension attachment? I would think above the attachment would give a lot better ground clearance.


I have been playing with swaybars myself for years, but could not find any for our 2004 Ody EX. So I went a different direction:

My son & I put on the H&R lowering springs all the way around, and KYB shocks/struts. With aftermarket camber correctors on front and back. 1 & 1/4 front, 1 & 1/2 rear lowering, I think.

The springs do a terrific job, but the KYBs are NO match for the H&R front springs. It is WAY too bouncy now, but great in the corners! No jounce control at all, but OK on rebound. I have poly bushings for the front swaybar, but it looks like a tough job to change 'em!

Does anybody know of alternate struts to the KYB's? There used to be some available in the US. I used to be able to find air shocks for anything, but have had no luck in that direction either.
 

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Look at the pic with the exhaust pipe. I think he was shooting for a little more clearance on the pipe to keep the sway bar from contacting it when the right rear suspension was compressed to the bump stop.

OF
 

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Look at the pic with the exhaust pipe. I think he was shooting for a little more clearance on the pipe to keep the sway bar from contacting it when the right rear suspension was compressed to the bump stop.

OF
The only problem I see with his installation is the front of the sway bar sticking down.

Years ago I had Addco rear sway bar brackets ripped out of the "frame rails" on a 1972 Capri, just on a steep driveway. I bent the sway bar in the middle with a torch, and raised the brackets up higher into the (reinforced by welding) "frame rails".
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Got to admit I built this rsb installation as I went without much pre-planning. It no doubt could be improved upon but that said I've had no issues in several thousand miles with any of it.
No dragging the ground or parts coming loose. In fact I hardly think about it being back there until a ramp or tight corner comes up at speed.

As pointed out by Odyfamily. The placement was to clear the stock tail pipe and other components under full suspension travel of my '02, it being completely stock.
The pics in post #8 are the final placement of fasteners. If the simple 15 degree bent I used was more of an offset to raise the bottom clamp eyelets more, ground clearance would be
possible but that would have required much more effort in fabrication perhaps even some welding.
 
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