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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone provide all the torque specs for doing a timing belt/water pump service on a 2008 Odyssey. Or a link to a document or thread that will have that info.

Off the top of my head I need specs for these bolts:

  • Crank bolt
  • Pulley bolts (both idler and tensioner pulleys)
  • Hydraulic tensioner bolts
  • Water pump bolts
  • Plastic timing belt cover bolts (upper and lower)
  • Engine mount bolts
  • Power steering pump mounting bolts
  • Spark plugs (will also be changing those)
  • And any other components that need to be removed

Many thanks!
 

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Keep in mind that not everything has to be "torqued." In fact I don't even own a torque wrench that will measure down to 8.7 ft-lbs as some of the specs show, but here are the official specs:


  • Crank bolt 47 ft lb plus 60 degrees; Clean the bolt and washer. Apply new engine oil between bolt head and washer and on the bolt shank where it goes through the crank pulley
  • Pulley bolts (both idler and tensioner pulleys) Replace both bolts. Idler pulley 33ft-lb; Tensioner pulley 19ft-lb
  • Hydraulic tensioner bolts 8.7ft-lb
  • Water pump bolts 8.7 ft-lb
  • Plastic timing belt cover bolts (upper and lower) 8.7 ft-lb
  • Engine mount bolts Replace all 5 bolts. Torque is 33 ft-lb.
    [*]Engine mount through bolt: Torque is 40ft-lb on the through bolt
  • Power steering pump mounting bolts 16 ft-lb
  • Spark plugs (will also be changing those) 13 ft-lb
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks so much John for the rapid reply and great info.

I happen to own a 1/4" drive inch-lb torque wrench and will use that. 8.7 ft-lbs is 104.4 inch-lbs (simply 8.7 times 12). I like to torque everything "by the book" whenever possible.

Thanks again!
 

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Yes, an inch pound torque wrench x12 will work, if you have a real small one. My lowest inch pound torque wrench only goes down to 120 in-lbs. I've been working on cars (a few years semi-professionally) for 35 years and never torqued those lower spec bolts. I did strip out an aluminum thread or two early in those years but quickly learn to "torque" uncritical items, while being careful with aluminum threads, without a torque wrench. There's nothing real critical on the timing belt job. Even on the crank pulley I've often just run them down with an impact (though the book says not to) and have never had a problem with one ever coming loose or causing any issue. The last timing belt I did on an 09 Pilot I did torque the crank pulley the right way since I finally bought the pulley holding tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My inch-lb torque wrench is 20-200 so I should be good, at least for the bolts I can get to in the tight confines of this job. I also picked up the Lisle 77080 special socket for my air gun to remove the infamous Honda crank bolt. And I also got the pulley holding tool so now I have the option of doing the 47 ft-lbs + 60 degree method or just running the crank bolt down with my air gun like you did...am thinking I might just do that to save a little time. Good to hear you have not had any issues doing that.

Thanks again John.
 

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I think the reason for not running it down with an impact is due to the crank sensor. It's probably possible to damage the sensor or the pickup tone ring inside. I did my own 08 Ody a few years ago and ran it down with the impact and had no issues. Now that I have the pulley holder I torque it properly. The rest of it? Meh...snug it down appropriately for the bolt size and move on. I've never torqued a spark plug either.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Serp belt tensioner torque specs added here

Keep in mind that not everything has to be "torqued." In fact I don't even own a torque wrench that will measure down to 8.7 ft-lbs as some of the specs show, but here are the official specs:
  • Crank bolt 47 ft lb plus 60 degrees; Clean the bolt and washer. Apply new engine oil between bolt head and washer and on the bolt shank where it goes through the crank pulley
  • Pulley bolts (both idler and tensioner pulleys) Replace both bolts. Idler pulley 33ft-lb; Tensioner pulley 19ft-lb
  • Hydraulic tensioner bolts 8.7ft-lb
  • Water pump bolts 8.7 ft-lb
  • Plastic timing belt cover bolts (upper and lower) 8.7 ft-lb
  • Engine mount bolts Replace all 5 bolts. Torque is 33 ft-lb.
  • Engine mount through bolt: Torque is 40ft-lb on the through bolt
  • Power steering pump mounting bolts 16 ft-lb
  • Spark plugs (will also be changing those) 13 ft-lb
Just wanted to add the torque specs for the serp belt tensioner which also must be removed.

The long through bolt is 54 ft-lbs and the short bolt that goes through the hydraulic part is 16 ft-lbs.

The long bolt must also be lubed with oil on all contact surfaces, see diagram below.

The tensioner must also be bled, see Step #45 on page 4 of this document: http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_148016633766813&key=4a7549f774a3b1ded2c62bb584fc590d&libId=ivz8rsw4010007bk000DAarcczu5k&loc=http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/152628-2005-odyssey-belt-tensioner-bolt-keeps-breaking-off.html&v=1&out=http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/A09-042.PDF&ref=https://www.google.com/&title=2005 Odyssey Belt Tensioner Bolt Keeps Breaking Off&txt=http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/A09-042.PDF

Odyssey serp belt tensioner torque.png
 

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All this info is awesome, I'm replacing or should say replaced some new components since I'm in this area already. New alternator, steering pump along with new hose since old one had a crack in it and leaked, and new tensioner since it went out on Wednesday evening. Old tensioner came apart and could not be used anymore. Paid $171 and change for new one. I'm about to put belt on and man is this new tensioner tight. On new hose to steering pump that was the issue since it leaked fluid onto the tensioner pulley and belt sliped out. Connection to steering on bottom from hose was stripped which was a pain in the ass to remove but got it.
 

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Keep in mind that not everything has to be "torqued." In fact I don't even own a torque wrench that will measure down to 8.7 ft-lbs as some of the specs show, but here are the official specs:


  • Crank bolt 47 ft lb plus 60 degrees; Clean the bolt and washer. Apply new engine oil between bolt head and washer and on the bolt shank where it goes through the crank pulley
  • Pulley bolts (both idler and tensioner pulleys) Replace both bolts. Idler pulley 33ft-lb; Tensioner pulley 19ft-lb
  • Hydraulic tensioner bolts 8.7ft-lb
  • Water pump bolts 8.7 ft-lb
  • Plastic timing belt cover bolts (upper and lower) 8.7 ft-lb
  • Engine mount bolts Replace all 5 bolts. Torque is 33 ft-lb.
    [*]Engine mount through bolt: Torque is 40ft-lb on the through bolt
  • Power steering pump mounting bolts 16 ft-lb
  • Spark plugs (will also be changing those) 13 ft-lb
Hi John,

Do these tor
Keep in mind that not everything has to be "torqued." In fact I don't even own a torque wrench that will measure down to 8.7 ft-lbs as some of the specs show, but here are the official specs:


  • Crank bolt 47 ft lb plus 60 degrees; Clean the bolt and washer. Apply new engine oil between bolt head and washer and on the bolt shank where it goes through the crank pulley
  • Pulley bolts (both idler and tensioner pulleys) Replace both bolts. Idler pulley 33ft-lb; Tensioner pulley 19ft-lb
  • Hydraulic tensioner bolts 8.7ft-lb
  • Water pump bolts 8.7 ft-lb
  • Plastic timing belt cover bolts (upper and lower) 8.7 ft-lb
  • Engine mount bolts Replace all 5 bolts. Torque is 33 ft-lb.
    [*]Engine mount through bolt: Torque is 40ft-lb on the through bolt
  • Power steering pump mounting bolts 16 ft-lb
  • Spark plugs (will also be changing those) 13 ft-lb
Hi John,

Do these torque specs apply to the gen 4 ody?

I figure it apples to all J35, but just confirming.

Thanks for your help...
 

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Yes, the timing belt components are the same.
 

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Yes, the timing belt components are the same.
Thanks...
guessing the instructions to replace specific problematic bolts do not apply to gen 4.
 

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Same bolts that the service manual says to replace on the Gen 3 it recommends replacing on the Gen 4. I rarely replace the bolts. I don't think anyone else does either.
 

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2006 EXL-RES, Teal/Beige, VCMII Tuner, Airlift rear suspension, and Weathertek floor mats.
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Crank bolt - smokin’ tight then two full turns. Or...until you’ve broken every tool in your toolbox trying to get that last degree of turn on the bolt. Either option is fine!
 

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Follow this link and print out the steps, make sure you click on the links and have ink in your printer, it is quite a few pages long. I still have my grease copy in the garage as memory of that special day lol. Most important thing is to prepare yourself for the crankShaft bolt, it can destroy your confidence even before the battle has even begun.

Timing belt 1
Timing belt 2

 
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