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New Honda owner: 2013 Odyssey

10K views 98 replies 16 participants last post by  93Bandit 
#1 · (Edited)
Howdy all,

My wife and I recently purchased our first Honda vehicle. I've always owned GM/Ford/Chrysler products and am familiar with servicing them and their quirks. I'm new to the Honda world so I'm not that familiar with their quirks and features. I'm mechanically inclined so I plan to do most service myself when it makes sense.

We purchased an elderly owned 2013 Odyssey with 156k miles. They purchased it new and it appears to be well cared for. They just had the TB and all related parts replaced at their local Honda dealer in Sept of 2022 with 154k miles, so I'm glad that's already been taken care of.

After lurking around the forum, I read about the VCM induced issues so I ordered the VCMTunnerII and will install it once it arrives.

I asked if they ever had the valves adjusted and he doesn't think so, so that'll be one of the first things to check. It runs well and isn't making abnormal noise so I'm hoping the valve lash isn't too far out of spec. Also hoping once I get the valve covers off I'm greeted by clean internals. He had the oil changed every ~8,000 miles which is stretching it for me. I know modern synthetics are good, but I personally think oil should be changed more often. It's cheap insurance after all and I hope to get 300k miles out of this van.

To summarize, below is a list of service items I plan to do immediately. Please let me know if there's anything else I should check.

  • Adjust valves
  • Oil/filter
  • trans drain/refill
  • install VCMTunnerII
  • Spark plugs
  • Spool valve leak fix
  • ???

Thanks
 
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#3 ·
I agree with the above. A lot of people see the coked up front head and think they have a problem or they need to flush the engine. But every J series looks like that under the PCV head, it's nothing to be worried about.

Also, be prepared to potentially find tight exhaust valves. They tighten up over time and eventually it gets to the point where you burn a valve if not checked and adjusted.

While you're in there, check the VCM spool valve on the front head for any signs of an oil leak. If this valve leaks, the oil goes straight into the alternator and then you need a new alternator as well, so catching this leak as soon as possible is a good thing.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the advice. I've seen several pictures of cruddy heads on the front bank and that was concerning to me. However, if it's a result of PCV I understand why it happens. As long as it doesn't have a negative affect on performance or longevity, I'm not concerned. As for tight exhaust valves, thanks for the heads up. Tight exhaust valves has been a common theme as I've adjusted valves throughout my mechanical adventures. Everything from quads to vehicles, exhaust tend to tighten up more often than intakes.

I will check the VCM spool valve. If it is leaking does that require replacing the valve, or is there a gasket/seal that should be replaced?
 
#6 ·
It is the gasket that leaks, but Honda does not sell the gasket alone. Honda's official TSB says to purchase the entire valve part (about $200, sometimes a bit less), discard the bottom half of the valve (as replacing this piece requires removing all the rockers and is not necessary), and use the new upper half of the valve with the two new gaskets and metal plate.

Here is the TSB:
Thanks for the info. Man, $200 is steep just for essentially a gasket failure... Why couldn't you use purchase an aftermarket gasket? I see rockauto sells one for $5. More Information for ULTRA-POWER B33566 I understand OEM parts are usually the best and this is generally true for most makes/models, but in this case I think trying the aftermarket gasket for only $5 is worth the test, especially if it'll save you $195.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the info. Man, $200 is steep just for essentially a gasket failure... Why couldn't you use purchase an aftermarket gasket? I see rockauto sells one for $5. More Information for ULTRA-POWER B33566 I understand OEM parts are usually the best and this is generally true for most makes/models, but in this case I think trying the aftermarket gasket for only $5 is worth the test, especially if it'll save you $195.
Some people do. It's a mixed bag on its effectiveness. Considering Honda says to replace the upper half of the valve and the metal plate as well, it's fair to assume that part of the issue lies there as well.
 
#9 ·
He had the oil changed every ~8,000 miles which is stretching it for me.
Yes and no - if those were road trip miles with cruise control on - that's a pretty reasonable OCI. At ~15k miles a year, that's about every 6-months, so also the oil never sat in there for long periods. I do 5k intervals just to make the accounting easy (lots of short trips). If you do shorter intervals, don't reset the Maintenance Minder or you will miss the 'larger' services that only get tripped with 10% remaining on the indicator.

-Charlie
 
#10 ·
Have the plugs been done at 105K? If not, get them replaced. I wonder if the timing belt replacement is the 1st or 2nd replacement. If 1st, it's likely the plugs were not done yet.

Just something else to keep in mind, keep the power steering fluid fresh. Extraordinarily cheap insurance. Genuine Honda PS fluid is very cheap and you can change out the fluid in the reservoir with a turkey baster.

8K miles on an OCI isn't crazy long like phattyduck mentioned but I agree, a little longer than I would do personally. But it wouldn't stop me from buying the car either.
 
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#13 ·
I have no idea if the plugs have ever been replaced, so I'll add that to the list. The timing belt replacement was the first time it's been replaced.

What's unique about the Honda PS system that constant fluid changes will make a difference? I'll add this to the list, but I'm a bit skeptical.

It's not just a gasket failure, Honda says the groove that it sits in on the upper section could also be to blame, that said you get a decent amount of part for $200. Shop around, look for part number 15810-R70-A04. I sell at least 1 or 2 a week and supply a copy of the bulletin to those who want one.
OK that makes sense, thanks for the info. Do you have a link to where you sell the part?
 
#15 ·
Welcome to the odyssey forum. 👍🏻 good choice switching to Odyssey no doubt about that you will reach 300k you mechanically inclined just keep an eye on it and follow the routine service. 154k service B add on your list
•Check master cylinder and VSA modulator for damage or leakage
•check boots and boots band for cracks/ tightness
•check coolant or flush and fill
•.check catalictic converter heat shield exhaust pipe and muffler
•check pad and disc for wear damage and crack
•inspect tie rod end, steering gearbox, steering linkage boots
•check serpentine belt,
•check ball joints control arm bushing
• check sliding door rubber bumper missing
•check cabin air and engine air filter
•lube all your grease fitting
•check power steering leaks
•check if you have trans filter (replace)
•check all your fluid level and inflate your tire to specs.
 
#21 ·
I've put about 1,000 miles on the Odyssey so far since we've owned it and I noticed the transmission shifts are firmer than what I'm used to in older 4spd GM products. My GM vehicles are old and high miles so not a fair comparison, but I noticed the up shifts and down shifts are quiet apparent. It's not slamming or bumping, but the shifts do seem somewhat firm, kind of like a dual clutch auto trans I suppose, or maybe similar to the shift feel when manually shifting an automatic. I'm not sure if this is normal on these vans or if I should do the 3x trans drain and fill procedure. The fluid is nice and red, does not smell burnt and it is at the appropriate level.
 
#24 ·
Honda ATs are a different animal compared to other ATs you may be used to.
 
#25 ·
OK interesting. That's good to know. From what I could find online, it appears it basically is a manual transmission with hydraulic clutch controls. This being the case, it stands to reason it would behave similar to a manual transmission, as I described in my question. This will help me sleep tonight. I thought I was going to have to replace a valve body or something. Good to know, thanks gents!
 
#26 ·
I forgot to mention it did seem to have a bit of a shudder around 20-30mph while accelerating under moderate throttle. I've seen mention of this on the forum so I will see if it self corrects after changing the fluid once. If it doesn't, I'll do the fluid changed 2 more times.
 
#27 ·
shudder around 20-30mph while accelerating under moderate throttle.
If you see the RPMs go up and down during that, new trans fluid is in order. If you feel more of a vibration/shake in the steering wheel, it is more likely axle or suspension related.

-Charlie
 
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#31 ·
Good idea to let the old fluid mix with the new for a little bit and then change it again in a few thousand miles.
 
#32 ·
Drove the van to church this morning. Still has a slight vibration/shudder around 30mph when accelerating. Seems to only occur once it's warm. The 1x fluid change didn't make a difference so I'll definitely change the fluid 2 more times but probably before my next oil change.

I normally stray away from additives, especially in oils, but I've seen several mentions of Lube Guard red I think? Is that what most here recommend? If so, how much do you add to the trans fluid? There are several container sizes available and I'm unsure which to use.
 
#33 ·
but I've seen several mentions of Lube Guard red I think? Is that what most here recommend?
Yes.

IIRC, you add an ounce for every quart of transmission fluid, but check the bottle, it should say.
 
#37 ·
It's certainly possible it's something else, motor mounts, or axles. Tire balance, even.
 
#39 ·
I think LubeGuard would not hurt, would not be a bad idea to add some and see if it helps.

Based on what you're saying, I do suspect it is something else giving you this problem. I chased a similar issue when I first bought mine... I first had a wheel balancing and rotation done, then replaced one axle, then the other axle, then replaced the center axle carrier bearing. Each time the vibration got better. It is still kind of there; I need to change the motor mounts.
 
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#43 ·
A visual inspection didn't reveal damaged mounts, and the engine doesn't seem to have excessive movement when shifting from R to D and back. Not sure how else to test them and I'd rather not fire the parts cannon at this thing. Although they do have 156k miles of ECO mode on them, so maybe wouldn't hurt to replace them anyways?
 
#44 ·
If I could just provide a bit of advice - you just bought the van, the vibration/shudder might be annoying, but it shouldn't be a reliability issue. I would drive it for awhile, pay better attention to it, when it happens, uphills and downhills, etc... you'll start to get a better idea of where it might be coming from after a few months of driving it.

I was in denial that my motor mounts were bad until what really confirmed it for me was taking it on a long road trip and driving it for 6 hours straight in one day.
 
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#45 ·
I appreciate the advice. I bought it out of state, had my dad check it over for me and flew into town to pick it up. I took it on a 200 mile "test drive" while at my parents, installed the vcmtunnerII. The next day I drove it 1,000 miles home in about 14.5hrs. Since having it home we've driven it approximately another 700 miles. I do not claim to be an expert, but I do have mechanical aptitude. I've had bad motor mounts on several vehicles in the past and always felt engine vibration no matter what the conditions where. Granted, those vehicles did not have this type of fancy mount. I'm not in denial that it's engine mounts, I just don't know how likely it is? The shudder happens under load accelerating, and it's totally smooth while cruising.
 
#47 ·
Yikes $1,000 for 2 mounts??? Did that include labor or is that just part cost? I know they're not OEM, but rockauto shows several front and rear options for ~$60/each. After aftermarket mounts acceptable or should they be replaced with OEM? Are motor mounts a DIY job?
 
#48 ·
Lol that's the price of the parts from Honda! Adding labor at a dealer would nearly double the cost.

Aftermarket reportedly work fine but don't last as long. DIY the rear mount isn't too bad but the front mount requires removing the fans/shrouds and upper radiator hose (and draining coolant), and loosening the radiator. I prefer not to repeat that job in the near future. The right and left mounts are less expensive.

I paid around 500 each for the mounts but they are a little cheaper now.
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#51 ·
It has been theorized in the past that aftermarket mounts may last for an acceptable amount of time with VCM disabled.
 
#53 ·
I had my wife shift from D to R and back several times again this evening, paying closer attention to the engine movement. The engine moves, but not more than what I would consider normal. Maybe half an inch or so, from its back most position to forward most position. I could see the front and rear mounts Compress and expand slightly when shifting. I did notice the right side engine mount has some small surface cracks on the rubber, but I would expect to see some degradation of the rubber after 10yrs and 158k miles. I don't think it's enough to cause major concern, but I've never owned a vehicle with passive mounts. So I'm still on the fence about the engine mounts being the cause of the vibration. I did notice one thing I didn't notice last time. When the trans would engage into gear when shifting back and forth between D and R, there's a pretty loud single metallic clack sound, which I assume is coming from the transmission when going into gear. Sounds like it's probably normal but figured I'd mention it.

I also went for another drive paying more attention to when the vibration occurs. Still seems most obvious in 3rd and 4th gears. Also, it's definitely more noticeable after the transmission warms up. The engine comes to temp pretty quickly but vibration isn't that noticeable until after I've driven several miles. Then it becomes obvious when on smooth pavement. Also, at ~40mph I shifted it to D3 and power braked while trying to accelerate somewhat aggressively to load up the power train. That made the vibration obvious and it was more violent. I didn't do it again because I don't want to strain it or get the trans too hot. So I don't know if that info helps any. I know it's hard to diagnose over the internet, but this is the best I can do.
 
#55 ·
One other thought. I don't think the plugs have ever been replaced so I think I'll replace those, check valve lash, make sure the engine is dialed in first, since if that's not dialed in, nothing else will be. Change trans fluid a few more times, then If it still has a vibration I may try the anchor motor mounts.
 
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