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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

New to the Odyssey world. We just picked up a 2008 Touring with 207k miles. Nice condition inside and out with a few minor rust spots that will get addressed before winter.

My boss and his wife had this since 2012 and it was basically just sitting in the garage, my girlfriend needed a different vehicle, so this was dirt cheap and convenient. It runs and drives like new!

Timing belt kit arrived Friday, so I will have to find some time to do that.

When we got it, the driver's side sliding door wouldn't open with the power function. Saturday, I took the back latch for that door out and cleaned it. Got the door working nice and smooth. Unfortunately, it still has a parasitic draw (I think, because the battery hasn't been totally charged. We aren't driving it until the timing belt and components are replaced.) but I will check tonight. I turned off the power to the doors with the switch, so we shall see. I suck with electrics but I will have to learn.

Back hatch works, but won't shut all the way with power, so you have to get out and shove it closed. The handle on the outside is stuck, too. Can't open it unless you use the keyfob or the dash button.


Not going to do too much to it outside of the routine maintenance and fixing little odds and ends. Serves as a decent replacement for her Buick once we get that sold.

Here's some pics!
Wheel Car Tire Land vehicle Vehicle

Car Gear shift Vehicle Car seat cover Motor vehicle

Wheel Automotive parking light Tire Vehicle Car
 

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I hope you got the Aisin kit from Rockauto or OEM parts from a dealer. There are many stories of people installing fake ebay kits and blowing their engines.
 

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2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
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Welcome!

You'll probably need to do more parasitic draw testing later on. The two common causes of parasitic draw here are the microswitches in the sliding door latch or the A/C clutch relay (the relay made by Omron has a known defect that can eventually cause it to stick open and leave the A/C clutch always energized). The true fix for the latter is to replace it with the one made by Mitsuba (it has an updated part number)

I love those wheels. IMO the best looking set of wheels they had this generation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welcome!

You'll probably need to do more parasitic draw testing later on. The two common causes of parasitic draw here are the microswitches in the sliding door latch or the A/C clutch relay (the relay made by Omron has a known defect that can eventually cause it to stick open and leave the A/C clutch always energized). The true fix for the latter is to replace it with the one made by Mitsuba (it has an updated part number)

I love those wheels. IMO the best looking set of wheels they had this generation.

It has a new relay. I did that right away with one from O'Reilly. My boss said a few years ago he had to replace the relay because it screwed up somehow. I know it's always a possibility that the clutch wire was shorted, but the A/C works great. That was what kind of drew me to thinking the microswitches are bad. I was really hoping cleaning it would have fixed it lol

I do like the wheels. Glad it isn't a PAX unit.

One by one things will get sorted out. Now I'm just trying to figure out that back tailgate handle and latch. It's like the handle is frozen but you have to force the gate closed. Doesn't suck the door all the way in
 

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That was what kind of drew me to thinking the microswitches are bad. I was really hoping cleaning it would have fixed it lol
It doesn't always. If you had the latch out it would have been a good time to test all the microswitches and making sure they're working. It is possible to replace just the bad switches if you have some soldering ability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It doesn't always. If you had the latch out it would have been a good time to test all the microswitches and making sure they're working. It is possible to replace just the bad switches if you have some soldering ability.

Oh I know. That's why I left the door panel off. My hands shake a lot, so I'd have to find a way to secure the door shut so I could have my friend solder the switches on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just ordered three of each of the switches from Digikey.

255-6457-ND‎
‎ABJ362860‎
SWITCH SNAP ACT SPST-NC 2A 125V

255-6509-ND‎
‎ABJ363860‎
SWITCH SNAP ACT SPST-NO 2A 125V



If I get time tonight, I am going to use the foil trick to see what body codes come up. Regardless of which door is the problem, I am replacing the switches on both sides because it's bound to fail anyway.
 

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You may not get any codes. Usually there are only codes if the Slide Door light is on. But you can certainly try it.

Would not be surprised at all if you got a B1222, but that is common and unrelated to this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah. Both doors work as they should with no warning lights. The battery is just draining. Still wouldn't hurt to check codes out of boredom.
 

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Yeah. Both doors work as they should with no warning lights. The battery is just draining. Still wouldn't hurt to check codes out of boredom.
Once they close, check by pressing "close" button from the dash to see if either of the sliding doors respond again. properly latched door will not respond once closed even if you press "close" button again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don't "think" they respond, but I might be mistaken. It still seems like the driver's side one doesnt latch correctly, but I don't get a warning light.

I ordered the switches yesterday. I probably won't get a chance to install until Thursday or Friday; possibly the weekend
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Can anyone point me to a good source for the rear tailgate handle? I don't care if it's an aftermarket. I just want to be able to open the hatch with the back handle if need be.

Mine is power open and close and It's a pain in the rear to have to walk all the way back to open it if the keys aren't on me, or to go hit the dash button. I know, first world problems, but I'd like to get the fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hmm...I was hoping for new, but maybe I can clean the rust off of it with PB blaster and save the one we have. It's stuck in the open position I believe. Maybe that could be a source of parasitic draw?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well today I replaced the micro switches for the drivers slider.
Now that door doesn’t open with the power AGAIN.

It will suck the door in and after a few seconds it will kick back out a bit. It’s still closed though. No warning lights.

i have left the motor and control for the latch unplugged for now to see if the draw stops

thoughts?
 
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