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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Odyssey owners! After a lot of back and forth between the Odyssey and Sienna, I found a one-owner 2010 Odyssey EX with 87K miles for $5,100. Mostly dealer serviced and seems to have been decently taken care of overall. Excited to join the club! Hopefully I'll be picking up the car this weekend.

I know that Honda recommends the timing belt be done at 7yrs/105K, but I feel comfortable pushing it another year or two. I will put fresh fluids in it (coolant, power steering, ATF) when I buy it. Spark plugs and valve adjustment is due at 105K.

My question is --- what non-routine things would you recommend I replace to keep it road-trip reliable? I understand that alternators are a weak point on Odysseys and many fail after the 100-130K mark. I didn't notice any whining or odd sounds during the test drive so I think mine is fine for the time being, but I will be conscious of the whine and will likely replace it in a few years if it hasn't failed by then.

I also am aware of the power steering reservoir/filter issue. Am I correct that this only affected 2005-2008 models and my 2010 should be OK? What about the power steering line o-ring, I couldn't determine if that was still an issue if the car comes with the updated reservoir. Any advice here would be appreciated.

Anything I'm missing? I'm likely going to keep this car for the next 15 years so I want to maintain it as best as I can. Thanks in advance!
 

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I have the exact same van (2010 EX) with 96K. Other than the engine oil, ATF, brake fluid and battery

1) Alternator died. I think around 90-95 k. Only thing that really stopped van.
2) Serpentine belt tensioner was making noise. Changed it.
3) Front engine mount was shot and side one was weak. Replaced all of them
4) Changed the spark plugs at 95K.
5) Front brake pads at 80K
 

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You should really consider replacing the timing belt. These are interference engines, you don't want to take a chance.

Check and change the ATF. ATF-DW1 fluid only.

Other than that, you're good. You don't have to worry about VCM since it's an EX model. The other things replace as they go bad. No need to change things in advance when they are good.

You got yourself a good deal and a good van sir :)
 

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I know that Honda recommends the timing belt be done at 7yrs/105K, but I feel comfortable pushing it another year or two.
Anything I'm missing? I'm likely going to keep this car for the next 15 years so I want to maintain it as best as I can.
I don't know what research you've done, so please accept this advice in the spirit it is offered.

You may be missing the fact that the Ody engine is an interference engine. If that timing belt goes, you will be in for a very expensive repair, perhaps even a replacement engine.

In terms of "I'm likely going to keep this car for the next 15 years so I want to maintain it as best as I can", delaying the timing belt replacement is about as far away as you can get from that statement.

Here's a 3rd party write-up on interference engines. The author is pretty clear on the reasons why you should change the timing belt per the manufacturer's recommendation.

 

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Share some pics...
 

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You should really consider replacing the timing belt. These are interference engines, you don't want to take a chance.

Check and change the ATF. ATF-DW1 fluid only.
Erm, Ahem....

It has been well established here that -

Valvoline Maxlife, Amsoil and Redline are serious alternatives to DW1 and most likely outperform the HondaDW1 fluid.

Lets keep everyone informed that there are options.
 

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Fluids are your #1 issue as noted. TB is important, but if you waited to 105K miles you would be fine, in general there are few to no failures of the TB as long as you change it in a reasonable mileage near the recommended interval (miles). I don't think I would get on a preemptive replacement program, better to just learn the van and pay attention to things and address them quickly as they come up. The two Odys that I am driving have about 228K on them and they are just fine. My previous two went to 342K and 254K both before being hit. In all cases, I just do regular fluids and then fix mechanical things as they come up. Do the TBs at a reasonable time frame. Main thing is to just pay attention to the van and address things right away if they are amiss.
 

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Not to belabor the timing belt recommendations, but the change interval is both time and miles. The OP’s timing belt is overdue based on years and he is taking a risk. Also, it is worth reminding that it is usually not the belt itself that fails but the other timing hardware such as the tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks everyone for the advice. Unfortunately, the seller contacted me yesterday and said that he would need to back out of our deal since he had a close family friend who wanted to purchase the van instead after he mentioned he was selling it :(

The search will continue... I was so excited for this van too!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, I am excited to provide an update!!

Last night I purchased a 2007 EX-L w/NAV with 82K miles!!

I was a little concerned about the VCM engine, but the price was too good to pass up. I will get a VCM Muzzler shortly. I know about the oil burning and engine mount issues... but I am somewhat concerned the van may have been run low on oil at some point in the past simply due to the tendency for this engine to burn oil. I didn't spot any issues while driving it, though, so maybe I am worrying over nothing. The previous owner told me he changed the oil when the oil life hit 20%... approximately how many miles is this??

Also, the timing belt tensioner (along w/timing belt and water pump) need to be replaced ASAP. There is a slight but noticeable tapping noise at idle that goes away with higher RPMs. The previous owner told me he that's what his mechanic had told him. Also, it is throwing a P0344 code. From my research, I think a timing belt with slack can cause the camshaft sensor to malfunction?? Has anyone had experience with this??

I was somewhat reluctant to purchase the car with a potential engine issue and a noticeably failing tensioner, but figured I couldn't beat the price at $3500.
 

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That is a great price for that van.
As for burning oil my 07 ex-l nav res w/ ~132k burns about a qt every 2.5-3k. I think thats a reasonable amount and zero cause for concern.
I think starter failure is something to expect sometime in your future. Its a DIY job with no special tools required. Disregard the FSM R&R instructions, its obvious the tech writers never did the work.
 

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I have an '07 EX-L with 229K miles on it. I muzzled the VCM when I bought it used, partially because we tow a camper with it. It runs great. Only issue I have had is the gas release cable freezing in cold weather. With a new TB, you should have a lot of miles left in that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
To clarify on the issue: the engine ticks (although most noticeable at idle), check engine light is lit for P0344, and after driving the car for a few minutes there is a blinking "D" light along with the exclamation point (tire pressure) and VSA lights which all come on at once. Besides the ticking noise, the car seems to drive fine, transmission shifts fine, etc.

My understanding from my research is that a bad tensioner causing slack in the belt can cause the camshaft position sensor to malfunction, which leads to all the other issues (blinking D light, VSA, exclamation point). I don't think there is anything wrong with the transmission or VSA system. I will probably have my mechanic replace the camshaft position sensor when doing the timing belt since it might have gone bad anyway. I'm really hoping that my camshaft itself is fine... I have read a few reports where the camshaft needs to be replaced (and I know there is a TSB on this) but that will get expensive. The previous owner, who did not seem very mechanically inclined, told me that his mechanic informed him that it was the bad tensioner causing all the issues. Anyone have any experience with the P0344 code, or have heard of the camshaft needing replacement?

I have heard that starters are a somewhat common problem on this car. Batvette, curious if your starter failed suddenly or would work intermittently for awhile? I might consider replacing this preventatively as I do some road trips and being stranded would be an inconvenience. The alternator was replaced by the previous owner 6 months ago (I verified that it was a Denso rebuilt).

Cahaak, I'm hoping on keeping this one to 200K miles, at least. What items have needed replacement, radiator, starter, etc??

Thscott, I know that the Aisin kit is the best (especially the water pump). However, I think it is missing 3 seals that I will need to buy separately? Is this correct & is there anything else the kit is missing that should be replaced?

Also, does anyone know if the spark plugs need to be removed when doing the timing belt? I had originally thought that they were two separate jobs. I was thinking about replacing the spark plugs myself during the summer when it's warmer and then waiting until 105K to do the valve adjustment. But, if there's shared labor during the timing belt job, maybe I should just have my mechanic do it all at once.

Thanks everyone for the help!!! I'm (somewhat) active on ToyotaNation as I have two Camrys and hope to continue to be active here also!!!
 

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I am not aware of any missing seals with the Aisin kit. The only things you should add are a thermostat and coolant. Many people also replace spark plugs and serpentine belt at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am not aware of any missing seals with the Aisin kit. The only things you should add are a thermostat and coolant. Many people also replace spark plugs and serpentine belt at the same time.
Thanks. I think I will wait to change the thermostat myself in a few years when I decide to do the radiator as preventative maintenance. I could do a drain/fill of coolant myself over the summer when it's warmer outside as well. I will instruct my mechanic to top off with blue coolant only. I don't mind to do the spark plugs myself as it's something I've done before.

Right now I am planning on buying:
1. Aisin full TB kit (with water pump, tensioner, pulleys, etc.)
2. Camshaft sensor (Denso)
3. Power steering belt and alternator belt

A few other things...
1. My trusted mechanic said not to replace the seals if they are not leaking. This was a strong recommendation by him, I explained that I am planning on keeping the car another 13 years and he still said not to replace them. Obviously he will inspect them when he does the job but I am inclined to take his advice. I understand that there are differing opinions on this but if anyone has any strong opinions, I am interested in hearing them!
2. Do the spark plugs need to be removed for the timing belt job? I always thought they were two separate jobs but I'm reading conflicting information? If they need to be removed I will have him replace them, otherwise, I can do it myself.
3. I am also reading that the pulley bolts(?) should be replaced?
4. What about the serpentine belt tensioner? Is it an easy DIY if I need to do it later?

Thanks all, again!!!
 

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I have always heard that removing the spark plugs makes the timing belt job much easier. No compressive resistance when turning engine.
 
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