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I presume the seals you are talking about are the cam seals? I would replace them if they were leaking, if not then don't bother. The cam sensor I would replace if that is the code that is popping up, plus you are there anyway. Pulley bolts I wouldn't about them failing but if you want to that is your choice. Spark plug removal for timing belt replacement is a mechanic's choice I think. The serpentine tensioner is not a difficult DIY for later if you wish. I would change what you mentioned above along with new oil and filter and see how it runs, then take the next step if needed. Good luck and look forward to updates!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I presume the seals you are talking about are the cam seals? I would replace them if they were leaking, if not then don't bother. The cam sensor I would replace if that is the code that is popping up, plus you are there anyway. Pulley bolts I wouldn't about them failing but if you want to that is your choice. Spark plug removal for timing belt replacement is a mechanic's choice I think. The serpentine tensioner is not a difficult DIY for later if you wish. I would change what you mentioned above along with new oil and filter and see how it runs, then take the next step if needed. Good luck and look forward to updates!
Yep, I'm talking about the cam and crank seals. My mechanic said he would inspect them and replace them if necessary. They're not included in the Aisin kit I bought so he can just buy those separately if necessary. I will tell him to inspect the serpentine tensioner as well but yeah, I can always do that myself later as long as it's not difficult.

I bought the spark plugs anyway since RockAuto doesn't charge extra for shipping if they're coming from the same warehouse as my other stuff and I'm planning on changing them in the summer myself. I'll ask him if he typically removes them during the TB change, if not, then I'll do that myself.

I ended up buying:
Aisin timing belt kit
Denso camshaft position sensor
Gates serpentine belt (apparently there's no power steering belt on these cars... I wasn't aware originally since my Camry has one)
6 NGK spark plugs (although I probably won't replace these yet)

The one thing on my mind now is whether I should risk the ~30 mile drive home with a bad tensioner. Any advice?? It's currently parked at a friend's house who lives close to the seller and I was planning on getting it out of my friend's driveway on Saturday after going to the DMV and getting plates. Maybe I should tow it??
 

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The serpentine belt drives the PS pump. There have been some recent reports here about issues (noise) with aftermarket serpentine belts. If your new Gates belt is not quiet, I would recommend you replace with a genuine Honda belt. I still recommend that you change the thermostat now as part of the timing belt job, coolant too; it's the perfect opportunity.

I think it's low risk to drive 30 miles with your bad tensioner. I would do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
The serpentine belt drives the PS pump. There have been some recent reports here about issues (noise) with aftermarket serpentine belts. If your new Gates belt is not quiet, I would recommend you replace with a genuine Honda belt. I still recommend that you change the thermostat now as part of the timing belt job, coolant too; it's the perfect opportunity.

I think it's low risk to drive 30 miles with your bad tensioner. I would do it.
Good points, all noted. Thanks. I will instruct my mechanic to refill with blue coolant only. I would assume he has Honda-equivalent coolant at his shop.

I was thinking it was low risk as well. The ticking/rattling is most noticeable at idle, but my mechanic told me to keep the RPMs down and if I heard the ticking at higher RPMs to pull over immediately and call a tow truck. Let's hope I don't regret my decision to do the 30 mile drive.
 

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If it was a free tow then I would tow it. Hopefully if you take it easy driving it though it will get you home! I was pretty sure these cars have one belt that drives all accessories... had me thinking for a minute... hope it gets home safely...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So, an update:

I drove the car home and had the timing belt replaced with no problem. Mechanic told me I was lucky none of the valves were bent. He said mine was only 1 of 3 that he's seen have no engine damage after the tensioner was rattling that badly. I bought the Aisin timing belt kit, Denso camshaft position sensor, and Gates serpentine belt for him to install off Rockauto. Refilled with blue Pentofrost coolant. Parts cost me $256 and he charged me 4.8 hours of labor at $528, for a total cost of $784. Camshaft position sensor code might have been thrown off by loose timing belt, but I had him change the sensor anyway.

The serpentine belt drives the PS pump. There have been some recent reports here about issues (noise) with aftermarket serpentine belts. If your new Gates belt is not quiet, I would recommend you replace with a genuine Honda belt. I still recommend that you change the thermostat now as part of the timing belt job, coolant too; it's the perfect opportunity.

I think it's low risk to drive 30 miles with your bad tensioner. I would do it.
I took it on a 500 mile road trip this weekend and everything seems ok EXCEPT the shaking that occurs around 50-70mph, only when I am hitting the gas. Originally thought it might have been a wheel balance issue, but since the shaking goes away when I let off the gas and am coasting. So, I am suspecting the motor mounts, especially since they are such a known issue on this car.

I am planning on buying the non-active LX/EX front mount and LX/EX rear mount with the new mounting bracket. I did see the thread with the necessary part numbers. Thscott, I see your name on quite a few motor mount threads confirming that non-active motor mounts are ok, and if others want to chime in - I have just purchased a Max Muzzler (which disables VCM 99% of the time, but not 100%). If I use these non-active mounts, during that 1% when VCM is active with the Max Muzzler, is the vibration slight or is it very severe? I don't mind to deal with some occasional minor/moderate vibration 1% of the time, but if the shaking is going to feel like the van is falling apart or will cause the non-active mounts to break immediately, maybe I shouldn't install the non-active mounts...

Any feedback appreciated, thanks!
 

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I think you should muzzle your VCM and install the non active mounts. There are muzzler devices that are 100% full proof, but I would think even if your VCM kicks in on a rare occasion you should be okay with the passive mounts. It will be interesting to see what others have to say.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I think you should muzzle your VCM and install the non active mounts. There are muzzler devices that are 100% full proof, but I would think even if your VCM kicks in on a rare occasion you should be okay with the passive mounts. It will be interesting to see what others have to say.
I received my Max Muzzler in the mail on Saturday so I will be installing it tonight. That's what I was thinking - I should be OK even if it kicks in occasionally.

This will be too big of a job for me to do myself. I'll have to ask my mechanic if he's willing to do this job - heard the rear mount brackets are a PITA to remove.

Should I just replace the front and rear mounts and not worry about the side mount or 2 transmission mounts?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Another update:

I stopped by my mechanic's shop yesterday and he said that he thought it might need control arm bushings and a wheel balancing and that he wouldn't suspect the motor mounts quite yet. I'll drop it off tomorrow for him to take a look. Crossing my fingers that's all it is.

He did say that he would be able to replace the rear motor mount bracket if it did end up being the motor mounts, though. He knew it was a PITA to remove, but said that he's never installed non-active motor mounts on a VCM Honda. He asked me what he was supposed to do with the vacuum line and I had no idea...
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I think you should muzzle your VCM and install the non active mounts. There are muzzler devices that are 100% full proof, but I would think even if your VCM kicks in on a rare occasion you should be okay with the passive mounts. It will be interesting to see what others have to say.
I have a question... I changed the oil for the first time this weekend. The oil itself was easy enough, but the filter was trickier than I thought. I used an oil filter cap removal tool (that goes onto the end of the filter) and that was adequate for getting the old Valvoline filter off, but after I put the cap tool on my new Bosch 3323 filter and screwed it in, I couldn't get the cap off! There wasn't enough clearance underneath the new filter. Has anyone else run into this problem? I haven't read anything about anybody else having this problem.
 

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Well that sucks. Perhaps a good reason to not use this style of oil filter wrench. I always have used the metal strap kind. And I only hand tighten the new filter when installing. Often I can remove the old filter by hand without having to use my strap wrench tool.
 
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