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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that I've had the tranny rebuilt and have a 36k warranty on the rebuilt tranny. I am considering spending a little more and replacing the suspension components. About time since the van has about 192k miles and I've never upgraded struts or anything.

I won't do the work myself, not enough time, talent or tools, but have a mechanic that is very fair on price.

I'm considering purchasing the following items from Advance Auto Parts:
Monroe Quick Strut - Includes strut and spring and hardware - $140.79 x 2
Set of rear Springs - $109.99
Monroe Sensa Track Load Adjusting Rear Shocks pair - $98.99
Sway Bar Link - $34.99
Sway Bar Bushings - $8.99
Total Cost for all this hardware is $534.54 (- $30 with Promo code JN20)

The question I have is....
1. Does anyone have any experience with these components (the springs on the Quick Strut don't look as beefy as Springs purchased separately.
2. Is there anything I'm overlooking that should be replaced while we're at it.

Thanks,
LDG
 

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4 wheel alignment when done?
I went OEM for sway bar bushings and end links, was the same price as no-name and originals lasted 240km.
Double check inner and outer tie rod ends, mine on the driver side were badly worn.
 

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I am concerned about your observation that the springs on the Quick Strut appear less beefy than those bought separately. Do you mean that springs from the dealer look beefier?

The dealer also sells a complete strut assembly. It costs about double the price, but has a good track record for service life (from what I have read on OC, and your own experience of 192K). That's what I will use when the time comes. Too many stories about Monroe's going soft very quickly.

One more item to add to your list: control arm bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks all for the response.
@ mjody - yes I will be sure to get a new allignment - thanks.
@ davedrivesody - I haven't seen either in the flesh. My statement is based on bad pictures from websites and counting the number of coils. The Monroe product does have a limited lifetime warranty, whatever that means.

Thanks again,
LDG
 

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Just did struts, springs, strut tops, rear springs, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, five motor mounts, rear bushings, rear control arms, front control arm bushings (4 total), front ball joints. Got everything from NAPA except the front motor mount in front of radiator. The reason being all the after market mounts DO NOT have the vacuum control. A friend who works at a dealer who buys from the Honda dealer got me one for 96.00. Believe me it is ALOT of work. However all the wearable components are now replaced and it rides like new. I even changed the infamous transmission filter (also from NAPA 28.00) along with the fluid. I would say if you can do all of this it should be a reliable ride for some time. I would like to add that the outer tie rods, lower front ball joints, and the sway bar end links, are all equipped with grease fittings (4 on each side). The rear control arms did not have a grease fittings but I could install some easily by drilling them and tapping them for some. Pitty that they don't. Oh and one more thing, all four of the rubber exhaust hangers (doughnuts) were all streched and dried out so I swapped them out for some new ones. Alot of phantom bumps and squeeks went away with that fix. Exhaust is stainless steel, not too shiney, but very solid, saving me a new one if one of those old hangers would have broken, breaking a pipe or two.
 

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hey death,
how's the ride that you did all that work with the suspension.
researching on doing the same thing.
can you possibly post on prodedures.

thanks
 

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hey death,
how's the ride that you did all that work with the suspension.
researching on doing the same thing.
can you possibly post on prodedures.

thanks
I would like to say that I have successfully restored the ride to a like new condition. I also changed the rear control arm bushings (while I was at it) Whew! I was tired. I did find out a few things I would like to share with everyone. The 'big' motor mount in front of the radiator, that is, if it is an after market kind for an Odyssey, is not an OEM style or design (at least what I saw) is not vacuum/hydraulic, UNLESS you get it from Honda. Aftermarket ones are just rubber, no vacuum control or hydraulic Also if you do front end work only the toe in/out is adjustable via the tie rod ends on the rack & pinion. The rear is now adjustable with the new tie rods. So if all of the parts are replaced correctly, when you steer around a corner, the steering wheel will return to center automatically (known to the mechanics as auto return). Also on a relatively flat road/highway I can let go of the wheel and the Odyssey tracks down the road for a block if I let it. I would also like to say that I also changed the 3rd & 4th gear pressure switches on the transmission. It shifts so much better I highly recommend this repair to everyone that has them. Just for fun I changed the rubber tabs in the cup holders on the center tray, between the front seats. Only thing with any wear on the inside. And they are priced ok at the parts counter. You just have to take the tray out and remove every screw on it. But it looks like new.
 

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Have a look at the OEM parts prices on Majestic Honda - The Internet's #1 Honda Automotive Parts Store, the internet wholesale outlet for Majestic Honda in Lincoln, Rhode Island. I'm in central Texas and have dealt with these people for about seven years now for my 99 Ody. Their prices are about 55 percent of what the local dealer here charges, and both add shipping.
 

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Just did struts, springs, strut tops, rear springs, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, five motor mounts, rear bushings, rear control arms, front control arm bushings (4 total), front ball joints. Got everything from NAPA except the front motor mount in front of radiator. The reason being all the after market mounts DO NOT have the vacuum control. A friend who works at a dealer who buys from the Honda dealer got me one for 96.00. Believe me it is ALOT of work. However all the wearable components are now replaced and it rides like new. I even changed the infamous transmission filter (also from NAPA 28.00) along with the fluid. I would say if you can do all of this it should be a reliable ride for some time. I would like to add that the outer tie rods, lower front ball joints, and the sway bar end links, are all equipped with grease fittings (4 on each side). The rear control arms did not have a grease fittings but I could install some easily by drilling them and tapping them for some. Pitty that they don't. Oh and one more thing, all four of the rubber exhaust hangers (doughnuts) were all streched and dried out so I swapped them out for some new ones. Alot of phantom bumps and squeeks went away with that fix. Exhaust is stainless steel, not too shiney, but very solid, saving me a new one if one of those old hangers would have broken, breaking a pipe or two.
I have a 2002 with 159K miles. I have replaced the front struts/shocks and the rear shocks/springs but the van still crashes badly on rough roads and a quick inspection shows that many of my bushings are shot. Were you able to do this with hand tools or do you need a machine press to press in the new bushings? I am looking at just buying whole new replacement control arms with the bushings already installed versus paying a mechanic lots of labor hours to remove my existing parts and just pressing in new bushings. Do you have a comprehensive parts list of everything you purchased to do the suspension upgrade?

Many thanks in advance
 

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would love to change all the worn out bushings also.
but have not found an in depth parts list and diy instruction.
all set to do struts and springs soon.

thanks
 

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would love to change all the worn out bushings also.
but have not found an in depth parts list and diy instruction.
all set to do struts and springs soon.

thanks
Just three bolts, Ball joint, two bushing bolts. Lower control arm is ready to remove. You will have to break loose the ball joint with a pickle fork tool. Then you will need to pry the two frame bushings out of the frame, after they are unbolted. Be careful as the control arm is a steel forging and is heavy (35+ lbs.) Moog makes all the bushings and the ball joints. Lifetime warranty (your labor). Be sure to get the ball joint with a grease fitting, and point the grease fitting inwards so you can relube it without having to remove the wheel. Just take it step by step and it won't be too hard to do. The hockey puck size bushing contacts the frame when worn out and makes a loud bang over bumps.
 
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