Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
New to the Honda Odyssey world.. but my van is jerky around 25-30 mph with eco light coming on and off. I just bought a 2014 Odyssey with 80,000 miles. Poured down on us during the test drive so just drove in parking lot. Well on the drive home van started to hesitate when easing down on fuel pedal around the 25-30 mph mark. Ive searches and want to try this vcm disabler. What is the latest and greatest on this? And dealer said I have lifetime power train on van so don’t want to splice into any wires that will void warranty but will to try this disabler to see if I can get this hesitation out of the van. Please let me know where I can find the disabler and which has had better results. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Sounds like the dealer sold you a van with worn engine mounts, these active mounts are very expensive to repair, probably covered by lemon law in your state, it needs fixing and then you can disable the vcm with a muzzler, there's no splicing required and you can fit it or take it back off in about three minutes, it's basically a plug and play item.

Anyone else care to chime in on the engine mounts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
So it is possible that engine mounts are not worn? And all I need is a vcm muzzler? I just ordered the muzzler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,576 Posts

All you probably need to do is disable VCM.

If you feel and hear a shudder on light throttle, get the latest transmission software update and do a 3 time drain and fill of the ATF, with few hundred miles in between changes. After that, change the ATF every 20k-25k miles.

Once you disable VCM on these vans, you got a strong, long lasting engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,443 Posts
All of the above advice is solid - there are two separate common sources of the vibration you are experiencing:

1. The VCM2 cylinder deactivation system in 2008-2017 Odysseys is not a well-implemented technology. It is very hard on the active engine mounts, as well as on the spark plugs and piston rings in the cylinders that get turned off and on. The active engine mounts are extremely good at what they do, but they are not lifetime parts in these vans - they wear out through use and they're not cheap to fix.

2. The transmissions in these vans are generally very good but they work the transmission fluid extremely hard. The OEM transmission fluid is not as durable as Honda first thought - it breaks down sooner than expected due to the high heat and stress it is subjected to.

So yes, it is possible that your engine mounts are not trashed. But if the transmission maintenance has been neglected (the fluid should have been drained and filled at least twice in the 80,000 miles your van has covered) doing three consecutive drain-and-fills with a bit of driving in between will give you a fresh start with a fresh load of ATF. It's amazing how well these transmissions respond to good fluid.

If you install a VCM disable device and refresh the ATF, you will have addressed the two most likely sources of the vibration you are getting. It'll almost certainly go away. If it doesn't, there are other things to look at, and we'll be happy to talk you through things then. But try the Muzzler and ATF first and then let us know how it went.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
10-4. Going to see if I can get back into same dealership and work something out with ATF changeout since in fact the fluid is brownish when I looked at it. Definitely not red.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
10-4. Going to see if I can get back into same dealership and work something out with ATF changeout since in fact the fluid is brownish when I looked at it. Definitely not red.

And out of curiousity do y’all see the ECO light off and on basically nonstop while driving no matter what speed? This is the way it’s supposed to work correct? It doesn’t have any time delay for it to kick in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,443 Posts
10-4. Going to see if I can get back into same dealership and work something out with ATF changeout since in fact the fluid is brownish when I looked at it. Definitely not red.

And out of curiousity do y’all see the ECO light off and on basically nonstop while driving no matter what speed? This is the way it’s supposed to work correct? It doesn’t have any time delay for it to kick in?
Brownish ATF is bad bad news; it's supposed to be bright red. That's way overdue for a change, and I would say that you can no longer get away with doing only one drain-and-fill; you should be planning on doing it three times. Whether you get your selling dealer to handle it for you or you do it yourself (the good news here is that it's super easy - even easier than an oil change), you should get after that ASAP.

As for when the ECO light turns on and off, the way it basically works is that you won't see it at all until the engine warms up fully. One of the criteria Honda uses for VCM activation is engine coolant temperature, and it won't allow any cylinder deactivation to happen until the engine computer sees a temperature of at least 167F. This is the principle that all VCM disable devices work on - as a very basic explanation, they manipulate the engine coolant sensor into reporting a temperature ever so slightly less than 167F and so the VCM system thinks the van never fully warms up. Presto - no more VCM.

Two other main criteria used for VCM activation are engine load and throttle position. When you put your foot into it, you should see the ECO light turn off and when you ease up on the gas pedal the ECO light comes back on. Driving speed doesn't really matter - you could be going 15 mph or 115 mph and the engine computer will still look for how much power is needed to keep doing what you're doing. You do have to be moving for VCM (and the ECO light) to activate - when you're stopped, the van idles on all 6 cylinders.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
So it is possible that engine mounts are not worn? And all I need is a vcm muzzler? I just ordered the muzzler.
Obviously we have no way of absolutely knowing what the issue is, but the muzzler is an easy place to start. Since it's plug and play, you can easily remove it before taking it in the dealer for troubleshooting/service. Maybe it's just me, but I wouldn't take any chance of voiding a warranty by leaving it installed and taking the vehicle to a dealer. Why introduce that as a possible reason for them to deny a claim, especially since it just plugs in? If it doesn't solve your issue, take it out and when you go the dealership, don't mention your "troubleshooting step".

(Can anybody speak directly to that question? Anyone ever had the muzzler be an issue at a dealership? Feel free to start a new thread or point me to an existing one for that question)

Aside from the muzzler, the tranny firmware update should be done regardless of whether is it related to this issue or not.

If you can get your hands on the service records, you may find something that is related. ATF changes, multiple trips to the dealership for tranny issues, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
This is the principle that all VCM disable devices work on - as a very basic explanation, they manipulate the engine coolant sensor into reporting a temperature ever so slightly less than 167F and so the VCM system thinks the van never fully warms up. Presto - no more VCM.
I know I'm picking a nit, but I feel that it's important to clarify that statement.

The muzzler doesn't manipulate the sensor, it manipulates the signal that the sensor sends. As you know, there is no interaction with the sensor itself and I think that that is a key distinction. The sensor still outputs ("reports") the correct value, the muzzler then attenuates it a little on it's way to the ECU.

Manipulating the signal sounds so much more benign that manipulating the sensor itself. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,443 Posts
I know I'm picking a nit, but I feel that it's important to clarify that statement.

The muzzler doesn't manipulate the sensor, it manipulates the signal that the sensor sends. As you know, there is no interaction with the sensor itself and I think that that is a key distinction. The sensor still outputs ("reports") the correct value, the muzzler then attenuates it a little on it's way to the ECU.

Manipulating the signal sounds so much more benign that manipulating the sensor itself. :)
You are absolutely right - I did not choose my words carefully enough there. The muzzler does nothing at all to the sensor itself. Good catch!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Good info guys. I follow you 100%. This is the s-vcm controller I ordered. It’s says you are able to set it and forget it. Takes a week to come in so I can install and test it and I definitely would remove before I take to dealership. So here is the plan. Dealership said they will take a look at it so I will be taking it back this week and request a tranny fluid change out and software update along with records of service work. Hopefully the owners brought in to dealership to get looked at every time they had service and issues.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Ok. This is kind of strange. But it seems like the van is doing less jerking. To the point where it’s almost not even noticeable. Not sure if this is coincidence or maybe the van just needed to be run more often? Should I still take it in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Yep, take it in as this will only continue. Heat of the day, alignment of the planets, sometimes our '16 was better than others but it would come back. 1 - 4 quart transmission fluid change made a big difference. Added an S-VCM HUGE difference, 500 miles later another 4 quart swap and a slight change (maybe) but overall this is now a completely different vehicle with no software updates (which it still may need?).

This and better front brakes and we had a new car, with 42k on the clock. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Ok. This is my update. Dealership said it’s late in the month so can’t get me in until a few days. So we set up to do it next week. Sales guy from dealership has not agreed or disagreed to cover any costs but has agreed to take a look at the van. I called a local dealership to see what this bulletin service would cost. And was told $35 for diagnosis and for service work on bulletin it would cost $345. My vehicle was purchased with just a couple hundred miles over 80,000 which would void the warranty service and I would be responsible for all costs. This is if I take to another dealership. Hopefully my dealership will cover as a courtesy since I just bought vehicle but the vehicle did come with the warranty forever on power train. So if dealership doesn’t cover costs and vehicle maintenance minder doesn’t say to change out ATF then I could operate odyssey until something gives on transmission and then it would be covered. Or is that just crazy? Those are my options.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
it’s late in the month so can’t get me in until a few days
Why does "late in the month" matter to the service department? State inspections?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I don’t have a clue. I guess sales guy just seeing if I’ll forget or be ok with it after time goes by. Oh. And Honda doesn’t have any record of ATF fluid ever being changed out. But that doesn’t mean it couldn’t have been changed somewhere else. But by the looks of fluid it wasn’t done anytime recently. Has anyone had the maintenance minder pop up saying to change ATF? Honda manufacturer said this is what they go by to maintenance ATF. Would the vehicle sensors know if I changed out ATF myself?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
No sensors. It just a program with a bit of math based on your driving habits and it'll ding with a specific code when it thinks certain maintenance should be done. It tends to signal ATF change around every 30k miles. Thus, it has no idea whether or not you've touched the fluid. This goes for everything the MM might suggest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Ok. So just to make sure I understand. If I was to change out the ATF with proper fluid and as carefully as possible and not tell the dealership so it doesn’t void warranty. No one would know but me and the good lord?
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
About this Discussion
40 Replies
11 Participants
AndrewS816
Honda Odyssey Forum
Odyclub community is the #1 forum to discuss all things Honda Odyssey: minivans, safety, service maintenance, mods, and more.
Full Forum Listing
Top