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Discussion Starter #1
hey everyone. I had an issue with a 2007 3.5L. I had a timing belt tensioner replaced. When I picked it up it had a CEL. I took it to a different shop and they said cylinder #2 has no compression. He says this could be from a bent valve. I just squat when it comes to cars. The van has 156k for mileage.
two questions:
1. Is it worth getting the van fixed?
2. How much would it be to repair. The mechanic I took it to says it would be a big job(he is a Honda certified mechanic)
Any advice is welcome!!!
 

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Can you elaborate? What was the issue you took it in for? Was it running fine when you dropped it off for the timing belt job? If it was fine prior, then whoever did the timing belt job likely installed it incorrectly and bent a valve. I'd get them to make it right. One or both heads may have to come off depending on what is found.

If I had to guess, I'd say roughly a $2000-2500 repair to remove both cylinder heads, send them to a machine shop for repair and then reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I took it in for a timing belt tensioner replacement. Got it back with the check engine light. The first garage is saying there were other issues. The check engine light was not on when I took it to the first place
 

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When you took it in specifically for the tensioner, was it making a rattling noise that indicated the tensioner was already shot? If so, it's possible that the timing jumped and caused a valve to bend.

What was the check engine code? Misfire?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so after the tensioner was replaced I had the cel on. Not before. I as m getting p0300-0306 codes
 

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How does the van drive? Low on power?

That code indicates that you have a misfire in all 6 cylinders. Not really sure what to make of it to be honest. Certainly possible that the shop didn't install the new timing belt on correctly causing the valves to bend, or the shop somehow created a new problem. I've heard of some mechanics choosing to remove the spark plugs when changing the timing belt - supposedly this might make the job easier. It's possible if they went this route that they didn't reinstall something correctly.

What did the first shop say the other problems were?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The first shop said that was the only problem. When I went to pick the car up the cel was on and they gave me some bs reason. When I got home I read it and it was the misfires. When the cel light is on solid I have plenary of power and when the cel light is flashing is when I have no power at all
 

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It sounds to me like:

Fact 1: Car was fine when it drove in.
Fact 2: Shop changed timing belt tensioner (not sure why anyone would change ONLY the tensioner)
Fact 3: Car now has a misfire and no compression in one cylinder

If it walks like a duck, sounds like a duck, and looks like a duck, it must be a duck. The first shop owes you the repair as their faulty repair of a timing belt caused severe engine damage. It is very common when someone inexperienced does a timing belt job on one of these. It's never happened to me but I've seen it happen to people here quite often.

To be clear...this was the "timing" belt tensioner they replaced, right? It wasn't the serpentine drive belt tensioner? Many people mistake these two very different parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It was the timing belt tensioner thst they replaced. I agree with you thst they should take some responsibility in getting this fixed since there was no issue when I took it to them and now there is
 

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Go back. Sue if you have to. The repair is too expensive and it definitely wasn't there beforehand (taking your word for this, of course.) It would have been nice if your second shop had gone a little further with their diagnostic and done a leakdown test to verify that the loss of compression is due to a valve issue, and whether an intake or exhaust. Even a borescope picture going down into the spark plug hole would be very helpful. If the first shop refuses, that's what I'd do. I'd get a picture inside the cylinder, go back, and if they won't do the repair, plan on a small claims suit. Right now that might be a bit difficult, however.

If the first shop damaged one valve it's very possible others are damaged. Did the second shop check all the cylinders compression?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There was a noise in the engine compartment when I took it to the first place but no cel was on. I need to talk to the first shop. I just got two quotes one to repair the valve and one to replace engine. It ranges from 2500 for the first to 3300 for second with a low mile engine. I’m trying to figure out if either of these repairs are worth it if I have to pay out of pocket for them
 

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Any shop that would replace ONLY the timing belt tensioner but not the belt, pulleys and water pump while they were in there is pretty short-sighted. If the timing belt had just recently been done and that noise started then I'd be concerned about the quality of parts used during the timing belt replacement job.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The timing belt had been done at the 105k mileage mark. The van has 160k now and maintenance was done about 5 years ago
 

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The hydraulic tensioners do wear out and make a rattle noise. It was good to get it replaced. I would have done the entire job again, though. Regardless, their faulty timing belt repair damaged your engine. Plain and simple. It would have sucked for them but they should have admitted to it and just given you the bad news that your car would be down for a week while they perform the repair, on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just got off a call with the garage and the mechanic. They are willing to dig deeper into this. The mechanic said that the new mechanic who did the compression test should have done a leak test. Is this true?
 

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A leak test will tell why there is no compression. They fill the cylinder with air at TDC of compression stroke and then see where the air leaks out. If you hear it coming from the intake manifold then it's a damaged intake valve. If it comes out the exhaust then it's a bad exhaust valve. If it comes out the dipstick tube then it's bad rings.

Again, we don't know how this happened and so it's possible that other valves are bent. I'd want a complete compression test done on each cylinder.
 

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My money is on the first shop bending the the valve(s) in cylinder #2. If the tensioner is blown then the belt would be slapping like crazy toward the rear of the engine but most likely wouldn't skip time. The metal boss on the front and rear cam's backing plate is pretty good at keeping the belt on the cam gears. I am guessing he lined up the wrong cylinder for the front cam when he was suppose to line up TDC for cylinder 1.
 

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What a shame, could have run it for many more years. I have a 2007 Accord V6 with 320k miles, did 3 timing belt jobs myself, still going.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I know a Honda service manager who does work on the side. He said that it was not worth fixing
 
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